| bob12345678 |
I decided to return to the analog fold only to discover that
my grace 707 needs new wires. The female plug in at the end of the wires from the headshell has failed. Is a direct replacement
avaliable for a reasonable cost or a good used one if the price is cheap.
Thanks, Bob12345678 |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by bob12345678
I decided to return to the analog fold only to discover that
my grace 707 needs new wires. The female plug in at the end of the wires from the headshell has failed. |
Even if it was just fine, we* often pulled out the female plug and direct wired from there. We considered this as an upgrade.
* when i worked in the hifi store we literally sold something like a thousand of these.
dave |
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| bob12345678 |
Thanks for the feedback. I may just do that.
Regards, bob12345678 |
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| bob12345678 |
Well I am almost done fixing my Grace plug in wires. I will find a way but is there a tool made to strip that real fine tone arm wire?
Regards bob12345678 |
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| GRollins |
Depending on the insulation, you can frequently just start soldering and the heat will melt the insulation as you go.
Failing that, I always used a sharp knife and steady hands.
Another alternative, again depending on the composition of the insulation, is to dip the ends into something like acetone, which will dissolve most plastics very quickly.
Grey |
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| planet10 |
I got a nice little tool for Christmas from Allen Wright that won't nick those skinny wires (at least the solid ones);
As a backup i have a pr of ceramic (NASA grade -- made in Finland) front teeth that do a good job.
dave |
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| planet10 |
How come the image tag sometimes drops a URL in (like above) and not the picture as expected?
dave |
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| kffern |
Hi, One of the internal wires has broken in my Grace 707. I plan to rewire with a single run to the plugs. Can anyone help with information before I start. I am mainly concerned with removing the female DIN plug from inside the pillar.
Thanks,
Kevan |
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| bulgin |
Hi
I had a similar problem with channels going and connectors inside the armpost becoming corroded or worn. The nylon? socket inside the armpost is held by either a slotted or allen grubscrew which usually also connects with an earthing plate inside the armpost.
There is a bit of wire-slack and you can withdraw the nylon connector if you need to work on it.
In extreme cases, I've done this job the hard way, making replacement din sockets for both the armpost (male) and the armlead (female), but you would need a lathe and a milling machine for that. Making one-offs are truly horrible little jobs as great recision is needed for the plugs and sockets to fit correctly.
Regarding baring fine arm wires for soldering, I use an NT cutter blade (model A-300). These blades can be snapped-off and I have a collect-type holder for single pieces of these very sharp blades. A very gentle touch is needed in stripping the insulation. Practise makes perfect.
bulgin |
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| kffern |
Thanks Bulgin, I should finally get bifocals before starting.
Would it be better to get the Cardas 4 x 33 shielded and strip back the first foot or buy individual wire and cover the external section with teflon tube and flex?
Thanks,
Kevan |
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| bulgin |
G'day Kevan
I've done it both ways but I prefer readymade shielded to work with. Btw, I'm long gone stuck with bifocals, which is OK indoors for work but a real bastid on the rocks fishing:D
Cheers
bulgin
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