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Sub Design? - Click HERE for Original Thread
cj.9
Hi,

This is my first post so take it easy.... I would like to build a second sub to add to my current home theater system, (B&W DM300 series - front ,center, surrrounds and asw500 sub. Denon 1802 recvr.)

I am thinking of using the Dayton 12" Titanic MKII in a vented box , EBS.
The white paper posted for the MKII Vented gives the following:
Box Volume 4.83 ft3
Fb 19.47 hz.
Vent 4"D x 15.2" L

Anechoic Response
F3 21.43 hz
F10 15.1 hz
Output @ 20hz - 101.5db

Typical In-room response
F3 13.7
F 10 11.0hz
Output @20hz- 119 db


I am planning to use Model 50-6281 250 watt sub amp from MCM Electronics and use Sonotube for the enclosure with MDF top and bottom.

I used the Sonosub Construction Kit software to calculate .
The software says the 24" Sonotube will be 21.78" and the port will need to be 4"by 15.2"

This will be my first DIY speaker project and I would like some opinions or suggestions. I'm not a true audiophile but I am slowly learning.

Please let me know if I'm on the right track or out in left field.

Thank you.
griff
a similar project worth considering would be the 12" Shiva
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Ven...pplications.PDF
page 20-24 is the project i refer too directly

im in the process of building one now, ive heard some wicked reviews on it though, ill let you know.
cj.9
The Shiva looks great. How close are you? Any pictures?

I ordered the amp from MCM yesterday. Not sure how long that will take, but I won't be able to get started for a couple of weeks anyway. If I don't decide on the speaker ,it may be a little longer.


Keep me updated on your progress....


:)
griff
getting close. ill post complete pictorial when is complete, hopefully soon after my bookshelves are done.
cj.9
How some details on the bookshelves?????
rolfy72
Griff, howdy.
With the 142.5ltr vented shiva are u using flared ports, if so where did u get them from?
Im going build the 85ltr vented shiva but cant find the flared ports in australia, so I was thinking of making the box with a slot port any ideas?
Whats the go with correction factor on slot ports? something about friction of the air in the port?how do u work it out?I use Winisd which doesnt factor this in I've heard?
help!:confused:
thanks Rolfy72
griff
Slot port isnt really the way to go, from what ive heard if u dont stick to the plans pretty accurately then they will turn out a little less then anticipated.

There is a place in Melbourne that can do the Flared port and they have another nice trick that you might be interested in, i am looking for the same ports and i am going in tomorrow to pick up my SEAS drivers and looking at the ports. I will get pricing etc for you and be back in a day.
rolfy72
Thanks keep us posted!
What is wrong with slot ports?
I've built a few car enclosures with slots and they work well, apparently if u dont use the correcting factor the port is tuned lower than estimated by Winisd/speaker simulators?(that's not bad is it, unless u are tuning really low)
griff
the only problem i would have is that it is untested with this particular system, and the flared ports are available so y not use them.
griff
this is a stupid question i know, but i need it answered non the less.

can i have ported speakers with a sealed sub?

(sorry, having a mental blank here)
rolfy72
Cant see why not!
griff
just took delivery of my Shiva, its a beast, will be taking a full pictorial on a digital camera and will post as necessary.
MikeZ
cj.9, I made my first sub with sonotube, I used a NHT 12" with a 250 watt amp. The enclosure was sealed. I did not like the looks of the sonotube and after about 2 months I built an MDF enclosure. I cant recall the exact volume but can send it if you need it. I wanted very low bass and did not want the enclosure sympathetically vcibrating so I put alot of braces in the inside. When it was complete I finished it in cherry. My main speakers are 2 way Seas excel magnesium with seas excel tweeter. The sub is great for movies but tends to be too much for normal music listening, the room it is in is about 18 by 14. I think the sub would be better in a larger room. Just another opinion!
Super
I built a Shiva sonosub and love it. Ported, tuned to 16hz, but I go down to about 13 in room, and the rest is room resonances. Used in conjunction with an AVA-250 amp, barely feeding it any power for music for proper integration (doesnt take much to overdo it). The thing can pump out SPLs like its nobodys business, yet its very tight. Perhaps the most important thing was fiddling with the phase on the crossover, its just under 180, and it eliminated any "lag" associated with the transients otherwise.

Only thing I saw wrong with that original design was the in room f3 of 13hz. On a sub tuned to 21hz, that seems a bit of a reach in my opinion.

Oh, and if that amp comes with a bass boost, I strongly recommend disabling it. That thing will really make your music sound horrid (theres no easier way to put it, its truly annoying).
griff
im working on the 142 litre shiva now, got all the bits, all i need to do is the 24 holes!
griff
just booted the shiva up, in room, no cabinet, just on an open baffle, quite bassy, should have completed cab in a few days, couple questions first though, does anyone know the length for the center tube? does the driver fire from inside or outside the box?
ck42
cj:

Speaking of the Sonosub construction kit, do you happen to know if it takes into account any stuffing being used?

I'm about to start building my first Shiva sonosub and am trying to make sure I get everything right the first time :D

I think I'm going to go for the 85L version. Seems like a good compramise between accuracy and HT use.
Jean
Hello Griff,

would it be possible for you to take some good close up shots of the shiva ? I am curious to see what it looks like up close :)

I am working on a subwoofer using blueprint 1201 and a smaller one using two clarion 10" woofers.

thanks
griff
ok, i have the port info for u rolfy72


you can get a really similar port in one of 2 places, jaycar has a good flared port for around $13 or you could get the Aeroport PNR kit for $45


i will post pics soon
Austin
I made this design last summer and I have been very pleased. The bass is not overpowering for music as many commercial subs are. The EBS alignment can really shake the walls for home theater though. I would guess weight around 100lbs, very heavy. The design recommends no stuffing, but I found lining the walls with a small layer of polyester stuffing made response a little more smooth. Also, take extra care to make sure there are no air leaks in any of the joints. Keep us updated on your progess.
griff
shall be done tomora, and pics should also be up to date
cj.9
Ok, It's been a while , but this is where I'm at so far.

Ordered and recd. the following:

250 watt sub amp from MCM, Part#300-794
Dayton 12" Titanic MKII (looks very cool):D
4" flared port, both ends

I have decided not to use sonotube ( could only get full 12' section at 120$ and no place to store remainder of tube)

Current plan is to build Vented EBS MDF Enclosure,still 4.83ft3 but tuned to 18hz. Plan to use 2 layers of 3/4" MDF.

Any Ideas on internal Brace Design?

I plan to use a 2"x14"x37" slot port.

Is there some reason not to go with a slot port?

Is anyone else working on an enclosure for the MKII?

I'm have been using CADstd freeware program to design box.
If anyone would like to have a look at the dwg.s I have so far , I would be glad to email them. They are in Word Doc. form and the size is 95kbs.

It will be a couple of weeks before I am able to start work on the enclosure.

later.....
cj.9
I forgot to ask...Griff , where are your pics located?
R. McAnally
quote:
Originally posted by cj.9

Current plan is to build Vented EBS MDF Enclosure,still 4.83ft3 but tuned to 18hz. Plan to use 2 layers of 3/4" MDF.

That box is HUGE! wow. I think you could get away with less volume and still extend below 20 hz. The room will beef up the low end. You may need more power though.
cj.9
I know........... the box is going to be big and heavy. I would like to be able to use the top as an end table (plants on top etc.).


Is it possible to make the enclosure vibration free??

Thanks.
griff
pics and subbie have stalled due to school.
planet10
Anyone looking at Shivas or daytons should also be looking at the cast-basket Lambda built Stryke.

There are a number of others that also inhabit the $100-135 12" subwoofer driver market. Bob Stout's LDSG shows 10 recommended drivers in this class.
http://www.snippets.org/ldsg/sect-8-woofs.php3#WOOF-15-

dave
Austin
cj.9,
My box is 142 litres (5.0cu. ft.), and only has one layer of 3/4" MDF. The thing weighs over 100lbs. There is absolutely no vibrations at all. I have 3 internal braces also. I would not recommend using 2 layers of 3/4". You will need a dolly to move it if you do. If you want to go all out use 1". You really do not need more than that. I used heavy duty liquid nails on the joints and the thing is solid as a rock. You would be better off using the extra MDF on the internal bracing. I assure you the sub will not vibrate, but the rest of the house will!

Austin
cj.9
Cool , 5 cu.ft. What are the exterior dimensions? Do you have any photos?

Where can I find dwgs. of the internal brace design ?
I would be glad to go with a single layer of 3/4"MDF ( Haven't seen any 1" at Home Depot or Lowes').

.............
cj.9
More Questions....

I didn't explain in the earlier post , but I was thinking of using a sloted port (2"X14")because it had been suggested that a 4" Dia vent would be to small and cause huffing.

What is the acceptable Vent Mach# ?
I'm using Box-Port Design program and come up with
Vent Mach<0.12 , Is this ok?

Would I be OK to use the same enclosure measurements as the Shiva 142.5 Liter( 5.032ft3)vented Design?
The volume I need is 4.83ft3 , but after the bracing in the Shiva Design I think it must be close to that......not sure how to calculate the volume of the bracing?

.....

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