| SushiMasterX |
Dude, you are too much! (human)
I admire your persistance. And first, are you "real" russian? person?
"head" lights are only for a car! "projector" headlights, they will not understand this at Auto store and think you are crazy. And, make me wonder if I am the funny looking person now! he-he,...Am I?
Simple to say only "projector bulbs". But, not auto store....again, am "I" fool? You must go to photography area in any store for projector bulbs.
You are now off of the ship from 'vostok? (my joke & Yul Brenner's hometown too!)
Maybe, submarine break, in water near 'frisco coast?! ha-ha!
I am part-time English (conversation) teacher and let me help ease the pain. Maybe, I am like shot of Stolichniya for you. (it joke too)
Email me if some frustration begin. Consider me friend!
Soon, life be like nice, pressed white shirt!
I have free time and your abundant energy could be useful to us all, including you!
If you are just playing, then go somewhere else! If you are mentally divergent, "I" will still try to help.
If you are typical person, then I will help too! And we will make "Battle of Potemkin" first movie to watch on Aleksey's projector (or "Alexander Rubliev" or "Solaris", or "Spies like us", etc.,...).
...Folks, I have free time and will lend the glad-hand here. Sometimes, ya gotta say what the *@#! and risk your ****.
Anyway, we learn something this way.
Then after "Potemkin" we can all party on Aleksey's tab! Stoli's for everyone! Lastrovia! Brosht! (Just we joke Aleksey)
You are not freak are you?!.....No?! Good, I am glad!!!
Am I the funny one now? |
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| Undream |
What the hell is going on.
PS - my site is updated. http://www.dreamlash.com/DIY/
This is my screen plan:
pretty much the biggest I can get it from a 48" x 96" sheet of the stuff. I've already cut my wood and spraypainted what needs to be spraypainted. I started assembling last night. seems as though its going to be a pretty easy job. |
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| Gunawan W |
xblocker,
you mentioned that if I use more than one lens, it will reduce Spherical Aberration not Chromatic Aberration?
I used PCX lens with fl=318mm, I want final fl around 430mm, to get that I add Concave lens with fl=-1220mm, is it correct? With this 2 lens setup, will it reduce the abberation problem too?
big reflector.
In my previous post, I mentioned that we can't use oversize reflector (as big as LCD panel size), but I think we can, with some cost.
See my last edited drawing, explaining that setup. |
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| biteon |
i just started with this video projection stuff.
i made few projects but they went to ****, burned, smoke, fire, cracked,& fryed etc. im going to over look this whole thread to see
what works fairly good and what dosent and for what reason. as soon as im done with that ill think about it and ill tell you what i think. my goal on doing this is to get the best ideas and put them to getter for my next project. i suject maybe using the tv for lense testing thats one of my ideas.also another idea is, ive been using 2 white plastic sheets that came with my car lcd, i think it turns light in to white light, & also i think itdistributes the light evenly across the lcd. ibrought these up cause i havent seen these ideas brougth up from the first 15 pages i read, and for some reason i cant get my lcd to work with out those white plastic sheets. talk to you guys in a couple day.
later:D |
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| tech head |
biteon
The problem with the white plastic is the amount of light we are using. We need LOTS of light and putting a defuser on the back of a pannel blocks LOTS of light. they are great (necessary) for direct view lcds but counterproductive for a projector. |
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| ChuckReese |
Well I haven't been able to find a good light source. I thought the Solarc bulbs from Welch-Allyn might be a good candidate, but I am afraid with only a 50W bulb (metal halide) they will not be bright enough.
I decided to go with a Dukane Quantum 680 overhead projector from ISI. At the very least, I can use the light source (575W metal halide bulb) and fan. This model has an 11.2" x 11.2" aperture... almost big enough for a 15" LCD, but not quite.
CR |
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| SuperDave |
Chuck...I was thinking of tearing apart a dukane...How much are you paying for it from ISI if you dont mind my asking. I didnt see any prices posted for any models I wanted the last time I looked.
Thanks,
Dave |
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| ChuckReese |
SuperDave:
I got it for $150 (plus shipping). I did a quick check on the web. The replacement bulb for this projector costs more than this. Mine was "excellent condition" so you may be able to get one for less depending on the condition.
I'm looking for XGA LCD's that are 13" or less (diagonal). If I can find one, then it should work with the Dukane 680 (11.2" x 11.2"). I found a site that looks promising:
HMR Los Angeles:
http://corporate.auctionworks.com/s...d=shop&c=141670
They sell all their LCD's through ebay, but none come with drivers. I was thinking of getting the driver from earthlcd, but I'm not sure it will work.
Possibly the EarthVision AD2:
http://www.earthlcd.com/controllers.htm
CR |
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| Marklar |
| I got my new bulb and ballast today its a 400W MH High Output 41,000 lumens is perfect is is the same exact size as the philips 250W MH you get at home depot but has more than twice the light output. The ballast is a standard M59 for both it cost me $96. I set it up just like I did the other bulb and wow it was bright still not viewable with the light on when im useing the white sheet but when i used the projector screen it looked real nice with the lights on. I sat there and ran it for a while and after about 10 min. I smelled something this thing get real hot I opened the OHP and the lens infront of the bulb was melting and had a bunch of bubbles in it. I guess next I have to make a reflector and build some kind of box to hold everything the OHP lets way to much light shine all over the room. |
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| xblocker |
Gunawan,
yes, I think you're right with your lens calculations. But if you change to longer focal lenght, you of course have to prolonge the the light cone of that side by movin the lample little bit into the fresnel direction.
Further, acromats have a positive and negative lense sitting beside each, often sticked together, but they should be acommodated(?) to wipe out wavelenght problems. This spherical and chromatic aberration is worster, the thicker a lens is. Meniscus lenses don't eliminate this problem completly, but more than others.
I would try both. Spend your existing lens a second lens with said negative value, or take alternativly two 1000 mm mesicus lenses.
And a last note: I assume you know that if imaging with PCX -lenses, the better result is always by facing the curved side to the object (LCD).
Happy working!
xblocker |
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| xblocker |
Aleksey ,
carlights? mmmh..,i don't think carlights have enough brightness for LCD projectors. And, how large is the size of the condensor? A condensor must have at least the size of the LCD panel window, or you get a circled image on the screen! I would rethink this idea. It also was subject of older postings here!
xblocker |
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| prjctr_builder |
this is bull$*@!!!!
i called the Proxima today and asked them about model #842, it has a 800x600 resolution...an they say that those things are so old, that they don't even have parts for them, cables.
dammit, what the hell is that..
if i go and buy an overhead projector, that is $100, plus $50 for a laptop LCD,and $200 for the controller?!?!? i do not think so!!!
Wiht all the other stuff, this is like a $400 investment,, and this is supposed to be a DIY project??!?!?
right now i am close just to buying a projector, and i know it is $3000.
what are you gusy using as a lcd? a laptop or an overhead projection panel? if laptop, how much did you spend on it???
i hate this all so far.....
Aleksey |
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| SuperDave |
Aleksey...people are taking different approaches. Most porjects I have heard have been an OHP with an LCD Panel. This is the fastest, easiest, and probably cheapest route. Problem is you get a white trash solutions (hey...I'm white trash so I can say that..hehhehe).
Once most people get over the ahhh of having an 100" projections they tend to try and improve it by making it smaller, brighter, and/or sharper.
Myself and others have bypassed the quick-fix stage and started out with LCD monitors. I purchased a used Viewsonic VG150 from ebay and I am trying to build my own lighting (I have rambled for weeks now about reflectors). I know Myren has completed his projector with a VG150. That is why I went the VG150 route in the first place.
If you want something cheap just buy an LCD Panel off e*Bay and make sure it has ALL the parts & cables. Otherwise you might be able to buy the cables/parts you need from Inventory Solutions. Otherwise you will end up like Myren, myself, and others who have spent hundres of dollars for their setup/design.
I figure I may spend over $1000 before I get my design completed, but I have already saved money by other peoples input (like Myren, Fender, Undream, tech_head, etc...) and I hope that my input will help others build my solutions for FAR less than what I put into it.
Hell when I am done I will probably give my work away to a friend or relative and build others for friends. But, I will be able to build them much quicker and cheaper than my initial design...Plus and heres a BIG PLUS...I will have a projector that will do 1024x768 natively, 350:1 contrast ratio, < 20 ms response time, and minor pixelation...so....if I spend $1000 I still saved about $2000 or 66% and had fun.
Thats what it's all about...having fun and/or making equivilant image for far less than you can buy.
Later, good luck...
Dave |
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| prjctr_builder |
What kind of an LCD panel should i use?
tell me......
aleksey |
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| SuperDave |
Holy CRAP!!!
That looks pretty sweet undream...I have had my Plas-tex for a while but havent built anything for it yet. Let me know when you try it if you have any wavyness in the Plas-Tex....after reading the AVS forum it appears that is the biggest issue. People put it up but get minor waves in the screen. Most people seem to be glueing it to plywood or directly to the wall to make it perfectly flat.
Did you use liquid nails to keep it connected to the center beams?
I need to build something VERY lightweight so I can hang it and remove it easily from my apartment whenever I want to watch it.
I was planning on using a large piece of foam, but your design looks damn nice, and looks pretty light...What do you think? is it light enough to hang on a couple picture hooks?
Later,
Dave |
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| prjctr_builder |
YOu encouraged me...hehe
now i am full of ideas again. how dod Myren build his, did he post pictures and tell you waht parts he used? How good was the image projected?
Aleksey |
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| Undream |
SuperDave,
The plastex itself goes almost to the very edge of the frame. I used liquid nails to secure the plastex to the frame, on all 6 frameboards. I then used a regular staplegun, and stapled about 75 staples all along the entire perimeter. I drove in screws to mount the trimboard, they go right through the plastex into the frame for added support of the plastex. I decided to put the middle supports in for the waviness problem, and, quite frankly, I dont think its going to be a problem at all. It weighs about 30 pounds, give or take, altogether. I'm going to be mounting two heavy-duty hooks into some studs on my wall, and just hanging the thing. I'll make sure the hardware I use is heavy enough, and secured enough. Its no different from hanging a really, really big picture :) |
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| SuperDave |
Undream...If it's not too much to ask I think everyone would be interested if you could post a picture of your projector halh on wall and half on screen. That way we can see how much better the Plas-Tex screens are.
Aleksey.... I think he just used an OHP projector for lighting on his first project. But instead of a projection panel he tore apart a VG150 15" monitor... That is the only monitor I know for sure allows a clear view of the screen. He is working on a much bigger project right now I believe and if I recall he is waiting to diclose some stuff due to pattents or something like that (if I am mistaken I apologize)...But he has contributed a lot of information already to the group.
As far as parts go... once you decide on the panel everything is wide open...just look at all the discussions on lens, fresnels, lights, and reflectors. There is no list of parts, just whatever people mention they are using. I like the VG150 and you would have to ask others for their opinion on them. Everything else just depends on what you want. If you just want to gaze at a 100" screen then just buy a nice Ovation LCD panel and a high lumen OHP. Otherwise you need to just look back at our conversations and decide what pieces you want to try...I will always post what I am doing and what I am using but there is no "list" of parts anywhere. |
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| prjctr_builder |
overhead projector has a mirror to reflect the stuff on the wall. what if we remove the mirror, tip the OHp on the side and put the lcd in front, so that it projects straight on the wall?????
hehe
aleksey |
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| prjctr_builder |
what if i use the 17" monitor, (LCD), and then use the control buttons to make the image the size of my OVERHEAD??? will it work?
hehe
aleksey |
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| ChuckReese |
Undream:
It looks very flat. Please post some pics when you get an image.
:D
I am not clear on how you made it.
1) What are liquid nails?
2) Is the plas-tex painted black or is that the wood?
CR |
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| SuperDave |
alesky...I plan on building my projector so I can insert a 17" in the future if I cant ever find a decent 1280x1024 + resolution on 15". However, it just makes everything bigger and longer. Plus...my understanding is you get a better image coming off a 15" screen than the 17" ones that are available today.
As far as using buttons on the LCD to condense the image I doubt that will work. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that only works on CRTs not LCDs. The LCD has a predefined number of pixels that are built into the screen. You can not, nor do you need, to adjust the picture on these screens. If you notice any LCD screen you ever look at it will be perfectly square...that is because the light is designed to go right throught each of these "pixels". I hope that makes sense...So...you will need to either get a smaller screen or hunt around for bigger fresnels like I am. I have a 15" screen and I lose an inch or 2 of picture.
As far as removing the mirror from the OHP...YES you can do this. All the mirror does is redirect the image. I did this on my initial setup.
Dave |
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| Undream |
Chuck:
Liquid nails is just an adhesive. You can buy it at any hardware store. Alternatively, you could use any other kind of adhesive, or adhesive caulking, whatever. I put a line of this on each board, and then set the PLAS-TEX (thats the actual screen, the white sheet), on top of it, adhering it to the wood frame.
Black trim boards on top are merely for show, and to make it look nicer. Plus, they are painted ultra-flat black and will absorb light, hence, making the actual image look even brighter when you have a black border around it.
Undream |
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| prjctr_builder |
i just called one of my friends and he said that i can adjust the LCD parameters (length and with) however i want!!!
who is right? tell me!!!
aleksey |
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| ChuckReese |
| quote: | Originally posted by prjctr_builder
what kind of the Overhead Projector should i buy?
does this one look ok? |
That is exactly the one I bought. I found it on e-bay (the same one you are looking at), but I decided to buy it from ISI for $150.
ISI:
http://www.invsol-inc.com/
Don't expect to use this projector with a 15" LCD. The fresnel is too small and you will cut off part of the LCD.
My plan is to at least use the light source. If I cannot find a high-quality LCD that fits I will rip out the fresnel and use a bigger one. If you come across a large format overhead projector (bigger than 12" x 12") let me know.
CR |
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| prjctr_builder |
dammit, will any one of you tell me if i can adjust the visible field of an LCD monitor??????
tell me!!!
aleksey |
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| biteon |
WHEN I WAS WORKING ON THE TV TO TURN IT INTO 100" PROJECTION SCREEN, I TRYED MANY THINGS TO GET IT TO LOOK BETTER BUT I WASNT SATISFYED. HOWEVER I FOUND OUT THAT PUTTING A CERTAN AT THE PERIMETER OF THE PROJECTED PICTURE AT THE PROJECTION LENS WILL KEEP ALOT OF LIGHT FROM FITTING THE ROOM WALLS AND KILLING THE PICTURE ON THE SCREEN.
ALSO MAKE YOUR PICTURE'S BLACK LOOK BETTER. THERE FOR ITS MORE SHARP.
I CUT A RECTANGLE IN A PEICE OF CARD BOARD (PAINTED FLAT BLACK) THEN PUT IT AT THE PROJECTION LENS AND MOVED IT IN & OUT ROUND SIDE TO SIDE UP DOWN ETC. I ALSO TRYED TILTING IT CAUSE THE IMAGE WAS PROJECTED IN A ANGLE.
MIGHT WORK.
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ABOUT WATER IN A PIPE TO TRANSFER LIGHT TO THE LCD I THOUGHT OF THAT TO DAY
:D :D :D :D |
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| xblocker |
Aleksy, shure you can....with a computer with a second vga out !
xblocker |
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| Undream |
You can't resize an image on an LCD monitor. LCDs actually physically have a pixel for every pixel your source sends it.
If you have a 15" LCD monitor, that has a native resolution of 1024x768, in order to run it at that resolution, it will never be any smaller than 15" diagonal.
However, if you downed the resolution to 800x600 or 640x480, you *should* be able to make the LCD display only the pixels that the source is sending it. Hence, if you wanted to only display 640x480, the actual part of the LCD that would display it would only be like 9.3" diagonal.
This entirely defeats the purpose of buying a monitor capable of higher resolutions though, and, hence, its pointless. Just buy a LCD Projector panel that has a smaller diagonal, like the Sharp QA-2500 or something. |
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| xblocker |
Undream,
this depends of the panel ! If i take video PAL input ,my 800x600 panel has black borders on all sides. Not all pixels are used! If i go in with VGA i get full pixel activity. but i can tell VGA card to scale what i want. There are also options with DVD and video out. At last i can resize video window at my desire!
xblocker |
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| prjctr_builder |
:D :D :D :D
Dude, those lamps above produce like a ZILLIOM lumens....lmao
aleksey |
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| SushiMasterX |
Good to see smiley's from ya' dude!!
...my work is finished here!......Off! To infinity and beyond! |
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| Undream |
| Marklar, I have literally posted that link to those parabolic reflectors about 3 times in this thread, and nobody seemed to comment on them whatsoever so, I figured they probably wouldnt work. I havent had the balls to order one and find out. |
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| Timtimes |
| quote: | Originally posted by prjctr_builder
if i go and buy an overhead projector, that is $100, plus $50 for a laptop LCD,and $200 for the controller?!?!? i do not think so!!!
Wiht all the other stuff, this is like a $400 investment,, and this is supposed to be a DIY project??!?!?
Aleksey [/B] |
Full-time consideration of another endeavor might be in order.
Enjoy. |
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| tech head |
I agree with Timtimes.
Just take the project one step at a time. If you think that you can just get a diagram and put the thing together you are mistaken. Right now it is all trial and error. Read the posts, dexide how much you want to spend, set up a budget (i.e. I will spend $XXX for a light then I will save and spend $XXX on a panel......)
It may take a while to complete but the anticipation is half of the fun.
And you should try switching to decaf! |
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| thelaw |
| quote: | Originally posted by tech head
And you should try switching to decaf! |
Lol! :) so tru |
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| Hellfire |
Finally got a reply from the university in regards of the "Brightness boosting" of CRT but it whas chort and far from comprehensive.
They simply told me I could reduce the voltage on the catod instead of boosting the votage on the anod . . . .
This is more simple than boosting (incresing?) but I would like some opinions on this so Scot_lad or any one else, if You have the time, please post Your opinions!
Bye for now |
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| thelaw |
CRT is the way i would love to go. I was amazed to even get an image from my f2.8 slide projector lens just held in front of my monitor (on 100% brightness and contrast :) ) i got a 4" image and i could read every word.
This is quite i bit more dangerous than LCD though i imagine. All the static **** and the electrons it gives out. I'm hesitant to take a monitor apart in fear of electrocution :)
Very interested to know ppl are still trying this route.
cheers, |
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| studzz |
im trying to find exact details but my busa bright headlight has a really nice reflector and a ?magnifier? (whick was a half sphere) in front of it in which it really light up the area in front of me all the way down the road as far as i could see - at least a mile. bike headlights might be better than cars because cars rely on 2 points where bikes only use 1. this bike is also made to go extremely fast also thereby needing a longthrow light.
so far all i can find is
headlight 12v 65 +55/55w
not sure if for regular or bright or both lights
should i snap a pic with the digital camera? |
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| thelaw |
Wow! the optics in this slide projector are great. A very reflective reflector -> large condensor lens -> UV Filter -> Double convex -> objective lens.
This projector came with a large, about 5 filament halogen (500W). It wasnt particurly bright, and was no more that 3000k (but that doesnt bother me much. You could see the filament on the screen when focused. For my testing i'm using an old black and white laptop lcd, i could easily focus to get a VERY sharp image, i could see every pixel and read every bit of text on an area of about 4 foot (until it started boiling up and went yellow for a few mins till left to cool) This suprised me a lot considering it was in daylight.
I ordered an A1/239 (ANSI code EVD) quartz-halogen today, which will be much more fitting for the reflector. I really have high hopes for this one. 16000 lumens (which is good cos im getting a small lcd, not a ohp one) 36v (if this projector works i will be using a microprocessor to control it as if it was a real projector (OSD etc) so 36v means its safe and can be servo-driven) 400W (ummm, nice!) i will try to post some pics tomorrow. I took some of the slide projector but they came out too dark (Kodak DC20, kodak's first digital camera! literally!)
Cya, |
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| thelaw |
| Sounds good Studzz, 12V is very convenient too. Does it give out a nice white light? |
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| studzz |
| here are 2 pics freshly taken of the head light. you cant really see much but the front lens. the top light (regular light)might be good for a reflector but not nearly as bright and would need to be diffused also but it does spread the light around the bike. |
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| studzz |
| the flash on the camera is bouncing back but you can get an idea of what i mean with a nice envelopement of the light |
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| Marklar |
On my Quantum OHP it has this projection lens.
is this lens made out of 2 lenses and currently my screen is HUGE and i want to make it about half the size that it is now if i take the lenses out and move them further apart will this make for a longer throw and reduce the screen size? Please excuse my n00bness in optics. |
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| prjctr_builder |
NOOBNESS- quality of being mentally slow, retardation.
lmao:D :cool: :cool: :D
Aleksey |
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| Lightbyte |
Hello everyone,
Just introducing myself, I have been lurking for a couple weeks reading all the posts...heh that took awhile.
Anyways I just wanted to thank you guys for having created this great forum.
I decided to start out with the "poor mans" version of a projector and bought an nView Spectra C LCD panel, and a Elmo 305A Solar Deluxe OHP from those guys at Inventory Solutions. It arrived today and I have spent the last hour playing around with it. I was quite surprised at how nice it looked without me doing much of anything to enhance the image.
This is a picture of the output, taken with my cheapo digital camera, in partial darkness, on a plain wall painted "off white" color. Hopefully this will work.
Projector Sample
Now I need to fine tune things, and get that Parkland Plas-Tex screen built. Will post some more pictures when I get that done.
Later |
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| xblocker |
Marklar,
in a patent database i have found an invention, that claims to have a simple solution for that problem. It is suggested to attach two additional lenses at the objective of an conventional OHP.
First lens concave, f= -310mm
Second lens, convex, f=+1000mm.
If the first lens is attached at the entrance of objective and the second at the exit, this should double the throwdistance of projector and therefore halfen normal image size at a given distance.
does this help?
xblocker |
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| xblocker |
Well , if everybody has finished his projector, we can switch over to talk about HTPC, black levels, contrast, screen gain, iscan, scaler, cinema ticket office, curtains...!
xblocker |
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| gav |
xblocker means go there and type in the name/brand/model of the bulb and search away...unfortunately we don't have a resident light specialist that can offer us prices, you'll have to look it up like the rest of us :p
lightbyte: nice pic :) what resolution is that panel? don't forget to go to the good panel/bad panel thread and write a review :) |
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| tech head |
You do a lot of patent database searches. It seems to be a veritable treasure trove of useful information.
Have you seen anything in the database about simple lcd projectors? |
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| Lightbyte |
Gav - Thanks for the comment, and I did post a review in the Good/bad panel thread
Model: nView Viewframe Spectra C
Resolution: 640x480
Hopefully will get a few more pictures up in the next few days showing the panel, OHP, etc.
Lightbyte |
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| xblocker |
Techhead,
oh man, there are hundreds of inventions concerning projectors! You can see a lot of details. If you wanna take a look on them here's the quick search.
Note: to browse the images you should have installed a browser plug-in called alternatiff v.1.4! It's free!
For this forum, inventions 1986-1990 seems most interesting. serarch term should be 'projector'.
http://alternatiff.com
http://patft.uspto.gov/netahtml/search-bool.html
Have fun!
xblocker |
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| tech head |
Well
I got my proxima dp2400 yesterday :-)
It doesn't have video in :-(
so I bought a startech game console to vga converter from www.computers4sure.com for $57us with shipping. :-)
That brings my total for the home theater to about $300us so far. Now I need a better screen. When I get some pics I will try to post them.
I know it's not DIY but I am still excited. |
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| Timtimes |
I've been watching and posting a bit on the other forum and I think I might have a possible workaround for those fragile ribbon connectors.
It seems to me that once you get to the point where the ribbon is visible and you have the tv/panel laid out flat you could reinforce the strength of that cable at each end of the junction.
How? Call me crazy, but I'd build a good layer of 100% silicone caulk from the circuit board out a quarter to half inch down the ribbon connector. This should act as a nonconductive strain relief and take some of the pressure off those microscopic solder connections. I would do this on both ends (circuit side and lcd side) being careful not to contaminate the face of the LCD.
Matter of fact, for the shorter ribbon cables like you guys in the small lcd forum are using, I might put a thin layer of silicone all the way up and down that ribbon, stiffening it (prevent tearing-although that hasn't been as big a problem as at the solder connections.
You'd need to let it fully cure overnight before messing with it.
What do you guys think? Am I onto something (OR JUST ON SOMETHING LOL)?
Enjoy. |
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| Undream |
I ordered a 400W Metal Halide Bulb, and 400W Advance Ballast.
The bulb is:
Philips MS400/U/ED28 - initial 40k lumens, mean 28k lumens, 4k temp, 20k life. Plus, its not one of those giant ED37 size bulbs, its the smaller one.
and the ballast is the Advance 400W Multi-tap.
I called this really awesome guy at www.affordablelighting.com - his number is (800) 683-8825. He got me really good prices on them. Ballast: 49.95 (this is $65 alone at elights), and the bulb, $26.95. Add them together, and then toss on $15 shipping, and I end up with a NEW 400W metal halide setup for $91.90. Now, I need to find a mogul base (socket). Anyone know where I can get them? |
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| fender4 |
Most local lighting supply stores should have a Mogul socket in stock that would work with your bulb (I am assuming that bulb is a Mogul base...probably is). Congrats on a good find!
xblocker,
Thanks for the www.alternatiff.com link! I thought I was just slow when I couldn't get pics to show up. That database is a great resource.
-f4 |
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| pod184 |
For the metal halide uninitiated, there is some good info at http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty...mhlighting.html it is geared toward reef aquariums, but good nonetheless.
I also remember reading somewhere that the color temp of universal bulbs increases somewhat when burned horizontally, though the lumen output and bulb life are a little less.
Pod |
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| ChuckReese |
I am pretty sure this has been posted here before, but I think it is important enough to say again. Fresnel Technologies seems to be the best source for Fresnel lenses, costing about half as much as the ones from Edmund Optics and JML Optical.
For those of you going the large panel/OHP route, take a look at their 405mm and 457mm fresnel lenses. Unlike similar lenses from Edmund/JML, the lenses from Fresnel Technologies are aspheric so there will be no spherical aberration. Both have an 18" focal length and go for $120. Either one should be large enough to fill a 15" LCD, but I think I will get the bigger one just in case.
http://www.fresneltech.com/pdf/FresnelLenses.pdf
CR |
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| Atomos |
Is there any reason you guys aren't using the 1000 or 1500 watt metal halide bulbs?
I found this place http://www.hidirect.com/end_user/endsmhlamps.htm The bulb and ballast prices seem to be pretty good.
let me know what you think.
if you know of anywhere to get any better prices please let me know
also what kind of results are you getting with your 400 watt bulbs? does it have to be a completely dark room or what? |
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| Marklar |
| quote: | Originally posted by Undream
I ordered a 400W Metal Halide Bulb, and 400W Advance Ballast.
The bulb is:
Philips MS400/U/ED28 - initial 40k lumens, mean 28k lumens, 4k temp, 20k life. Plus, its not one of those giant ED37 size bulbs, its the smaller one.
and the ballast is the Advance 400W Multi-tap.
I called this really awesome guy at www.affordablelighting.com - his number is (800) 683-8825. He got me really good prices on them. Ballast: 49.95 (this is $65 alone at elights), and the bulb, $26.95. Add them together, and then toss on $15 shipping, and I end up with a NEW 400W metal halide setup for $91.90. Now, I need to find a mogul base (socket). Anyone know where I can get them? |
Thats the same bulb and ballast i got im going to get a different bulb soon but i gotta order it its the 400/VBU/ED28 it uses the same ballast but this bulb is a high output muli vapor metal halide has 8k more lumens. |
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| Marklar |
| quote: | Originally posted by Atomos
Is there any reason you guys aren't using the 1000 or 1500 watt metal halide bulbs?
I found this place http://www.hidirect.com/end_user/endsmhlamps.htm The bulb and ballast prices seem to be pretty good.
let me know what you think.
if you know of anywhere to get any better prices please let me know
also what kind of results are you getting with your 400 watt bulbs? does it have to be a completely dark room or what? |
Well those bulbs are actuly just as big as your head so if you really want to use that monster you can but as for me im going to use a smaller bulb. |
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| Atomos |
all right i see your point i guess i will look in to the 400 watt bulbs then and they are a bit cheaper but i just thought that i might toss that out in case someone overlooked
it
-Atomos |
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| Undream |
| Marklar, Is there some reason that you need more lumens than in the 30,000s? |
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| Marklar |
| Well the more the merrier the 49,000 lemun bulb that came with the OHP was about right for brightness so im gonna go for it. |
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| thelaw |
Be careful Marklar, 49,000 lumens through an lcd panel is called 'brute force' lol!
Good luck! |
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| fender4 |
Well, I don't feel like I accomplished much, but I finally got an acceptable picture on the wall! I received my OHP (Beseler G-100...old school, from ebay) today, and threw my nView Spectra C on it. I am projecting onto a beige wall (think color of most computers), and have an 85" diagonal at a 12 foot distance. Despite the bad wall color, the picture is WAYYY better than I expected. 10X better than anything I achieved with the MV light (bad) or the LOA.
I plan on removing the components of the OHP and building a case for it soon. The LCD from the OHP panel and its circuits are easily removable, so that should make for a tidy package. I think by moving the bulb fixture closer to the fresnels I can reduce the amount of light lost on each side of the LCD.
The bulb is a DYS 600watt, and I was correct in my assumption...it does not have a ballast and it runs from 120volt AC. Pretty convenient, but man, this thing puts out some serious heat. Enough to make my room heat up after 15 minutes of use. It only has a small reflector "dish" under it... pretty simple. I will post some pics of it when my camera charges up.
It is plenty bright for my tastes. With one window covered by a thin white curtain, the picture is still very watchable. The colors are seem to be passable, but I need some better DVD's to try it out (I only have a few concert DVD's right now).
The fan is loud. Too loud. I might replace it with a nice computer fan when I build the case. I would love to go without fans altogether, but that will not be possible with this furnace. Hopefully we can come to a MH solution so I can ditch the "brute force" halogen. I might place a rheostat dimmer on the bulb to control brightness (and heat) if I can get by with less.
Oh well, that's it. No DIY, but maybe it will help give someone perspective.
-f4
BTW, if anyone gets an old OHP like mine, make sure that you take all of the optics apart and clean them (carefully!). I bet I got 300 more lumens after cleaning it...the rag was covered in black stuff! |
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| pod184 |
I started out with a Spectra C and an ohp with a 600 watt DYS bulb, but holy Moses that thing put out heat. It had enough light, tho. I just got my 400w MH bulb (roughly) installled in the ohp box, just to see how it looked and it was much whiter and brighter than the DYS. Temperature wise, it was like comparing Saudi Arabia in July to Ohio in May, MUCH cooler. I kept the original fan, and that seems to be more than adequate. Eventually, I will make a custom box, but for now, I can live with the ghetto style.
Pod |
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| ZeCo |
Just a bit of my research. I dont know if this was talked in here.
i was looking on what components the old and top line LCD projectors are using.
Here is the list:
1. A UHE lamp with shor arc (yeah, we already knew that.
2. Polarization converter (it was brough into this discussion a few posts ago)
3. high aperture LCD panels (well, unless we can grab one of those top panels, there isnt much choice for us)
4. Micro-lens array (or know as fly-eye lens or light integrator). Here is the new secret.
the MLA will distribute the light more even and therefore it will be a lot more bright. With a polarizer right after the MLA, the ray will be parallel before reach the LCD.
Although it wasnt mentioned anywhere, it seens obviously that the reflector must be parabolic as the ray will be paralel.
Question is: where to buy this micro-lens array and how much would that be? |
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| fender4 |
Good stuff, Zeco! I looked for some info on the MLA's...here is a good description with pic:
http://www.nsgamerica.com/pml.shtml
It seems that it is just an array of tiny lenses etched into a transparent medium that concentrates the light to each individual pixel, minimizing light lost to the pixel "machinery" ;) . Unfortunately, it seems like this would be a custom job for each panel, but I might be wrong. :eek:
I am still amazed at the projector in my auditorium at school. It is an Eiki LC-X1000 that puts out 3500 ANSI lumens. It produces a picture larger than most movie theaters that is viewable with enough ambient light to easily take notes. But this is what blows my mind...it only has a 200watt bulb! It is a UHP bulb, and I'm sure they pay a high premium for that bad mammajamma. Well, back to the real world...
Pod,
Good job on the MH mod. Are you using a reflector with it? You're not kidding about the heat with this DYS bulb. I would love to upgrade to the MH.
BTW, I noticed my OHP fresnel has some wear-and-tear "opacities" on it...enough to notice when the projection is in very fine focus. Watch out for that when buying an old OHP!
Here is a pic of the bulb assembly in my OHP, if anyone is interested. Note the small, simple reflector.
-f4 |
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| pod184 |
I don't have a reflector on it yet, but it is in the works. Actually, the original DYS bulb in my ancient 3M ohp did not have a reflector either.
The case is still being built. I need to make sure it is strong enough to hold the weight of the ballast, which must weigh about 10-12 lbs. As soon as I get more stuff mounted in the case, I will try to post some pics.
Pod |
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| ZeCo |
earlier projectors would all have condenser lens (fresnel).
Those microlens would replace the fresnel. That would also mean that we must use fresnel, in contrary of some think. I might be wrong, but it seens this way.
Projectors will either use fresnel (condensers) or lens array.
A brand new fresnel cost around $50. I'm pretty sure that MLA would cost a lot more.
Another thing I got was the specifications for the condenser (fresnel)
f = 0.5
facet pitch = 0.2 mm to 0.5mm
material = acrylic or polycarbonate
Each OHP use different fresnel. Mine is DC 1703 and has a facet pitch of 0.5 mm and effective focal lenght of 178.4mm
I dont know what those numbers would mean (as far as quality goes).
Im now almost convinced that we must use fresnel (from overhead projectors, not those magnifier lenses). Unless of course I get my hands on those MLA.
The ellipsoidal reflectors seems to be more useful on those very small panels (2.5" or smaller), so I am also almost convinced that unless we work on the polarizer/wave retarder, the reflector to go is parabolic.
What i need to figure it out is what to use as field lens and projector lens.
What focal lenght type should I look for? and how big the diameter of the lens? And, can I just use a projector lens? If so, what would the specifications be?
I know that those Delta and Fuji would not really work as they need to be very close to the panel and since the diameter is smaller than the panel, we would not be able to fit the whole screen.
Once I figure that out (with you guys help) Im going to design the projector and start spending some money.
PS: I bought an old projector. Should get tomorrow. Im going to take a look on its inside and perhaps use parts of it (or just re-sell after a while)
It uses a 6.4" panel and the not so very good FXL halogen.
PS2: Have you guys thought on using Xenon short arc lamps? cinema projectors use that lamp, but hehe, Im not going to buy a 100,000W lamp or my electric bill will kill me :D |
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| gtwolf99 |
I have the opportunity to buy this unit but the remote is missing. Is the remote necessary for this unit to function properly? (i.e. Are there functions on the remote that is not on the panel?)
Whats the reports on this unit, does anybody have one? Are you pleased, displeased?
Can these units be used as a standalone without the ohp, like a car lcd? (just curious)
Thanks all.... |
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| Gunawan W |
Undream, you're right about LCD panel resolution.
LCD panel has fixed size according to it's resolution (pixel).
Most desktop LCD panel has pixel size around 0.3x0.3mm, so if the resolution is 1024x768, the size is 1024x0.3=307.2mm=12" horizontal and 768x0.3=230mm=9" vertical, with ratio 4:3, diagonal size become: 12/4x5=15".
Nowdays 15" LCD monitor is the common and the best price we can buy, but IMO it's too big for DIY projector ( need bigger fresnel panel and lens diameter), I think 12" is the best fit (with 4:3 ratio, it's become 9.6"x7.2" size or 800x600 resolution).
Until now, I can't find 12" size with latest spec and low price (don't say about notebook LCD panel, it's useless), please let me know where I can buy it.
Or, I just buy 15" size and sacrify some resolution to fit the size (12" diagonal = 800x600).
Any better idea? |
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| ChuckReese |
ZeCo:
Parabollic reflectors only make sense if you have a small LCD panel. If you are going the large panel/OHP route, then use an ellipsoidal reflector and a condensor lens (fresnel).
For the projection lens, just find a cheap plano-convex lens. In order to know what focal length you need, you must first specify the distance to the screen and the magnification. If you want a magnification of 4:1 and throw of 8 feet, then the projection lens will need to be 24 inches in from the LCD. The focal length will be approximately given by: 1/f = 1/u + 1/v, where u,v are 8' and 2'
Gunawan:
The problem with smaller XGA displays is they have inferior contrast ratio. The only way to get decent CR is if you use a 15" display. If you find a 13.3" display with good CR (350:1) then tell me about it.
In order to use all of a 15" LCD, you will need to rip out the OHP fresnel and use bigger ones. There is a good 18" fresnel from fresneltech that goes for $120, but you need two of them. If this increases the total system cost too much, you will just have to get use to losing the pixels at the edge.
CR |
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| Timtimes |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Atomos
[B]Is there any reason you guys aren't using the 1000 or 1500 watt metal halide bulbs?
I'm guessing that most folks in this forum are trying to build a video projector, not a space heater.
Enjoy. |
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| multiplexor |
OH GOD! I cannot believe i just spent many days and nights reading every single freaking post. Damn you all for getting me interested in this! ARG!
From what i've read, the lighting is the hardest part to figure out.
I'm going to be starting this project pretty soon hopefully. And after reading EVERY SINGLE POST! I feel confident that i'm going to get a decent image out of an OHP and LCD screen. Seems the standard way to go.
Though I haven't started yet, i'm not too worried about the lighting. I've been a little too creative and inventive since i've been very young. I'm sure i'll find some cool solution. :D hehe
I must say though, this thread is incredible. As a thought though,
you should probably create another thread only to post about lights and which you've used and thoughts on each. then this thread can revert back to trying to find a plan to create a good projector. focusing mainly on the projector and less on the light needed for it.
just a thought :) hehe
Question: I didn't see a response as to why you could not use the light from a motorcycle. like the hyabusa mentionned earlier.
It uses a projection lens system which i thought was very good. Used by BMW, and some integras. The way the light comes out of these things is usually pretty damn bright.
I know there was some mention to headlight before... but i don't see those working, not bright enough. But the projection lens car lights function a little differently.
Instead of using one bright light, anyone try just using 2 lights and less brightness? enough to equal one bright light though.
I look foreward to reading this thread and other DIY projector threads as it progresses. :D |
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| tomithy83 |
the reason that you guys are haveing problems with lighting is that because your useing HUGE LCD"S just a thought its cheaper for the small ldc's anyway
les res quality but thats the trade off for better\cheaper light quality |
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| xblocker |
ZeCo
| quote: | Originally posted by ZeCo
the MLA will distribute the light more even and therefore it will be a lot more bright. With a polarizer right after the MLA, the ray will be parallel before reach the LCD.
[/B] |
ZeCo,
Can you point me to any source, where polarizers are claimed to make divergent beams parallel?
xblocker |
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| tech head |
Those MLAs are just a bunch of lenses etched on a transparent medium. Why not see if we can find a MLA that is etched on a polarizer?
Two birds with one stone! |
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| Gunawan W |
I have an idea about cooling system.
It's using water for heat transfer.
See in my webpages below:
water cooler |
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| ZeCo |
| quote: | Originally posted by xblocker
ZeCo
ZeCo,
Can you point me to any source, where polarizers are claimed to make divergent beams parallel?
xblocker |
they wont, but they would reflect the unparallel ones and the quarter wave retarder and mirror would recycle it. dunno if i explained well, but with the mirror/polarizer/wave retarder, you could have much more efficiency.
I need to organize my links, here is one of them.
| quote: | from http://www.research.ibm.com/journal/rd/423/tanase.html
• Recycling the parallel polarization
P-polarization transmitted out of the light pipe is converted into S-polarization by a polarization converter placed at the end opposite to the input face. The polarization converter consists of a quarter-wave retarder and a reflector. The axis of the quarter-wave retarder is either parallel or perpendicular to the illuminating face. Light entering this unit passes through the quarter-wave retarder twice, as shown in Figure 2. Therefore, linearly polarized light whose plane of polarization is either parallel or perpendicular to the illuminating face has its plane of polarization rotated by 90%° by this polarization converter. In our design, P-polarization transmitted out of the light pipe is converted into S-polarization by this unit and turned back into the light pipe to be recycled.
The recycling efficiency of the polarization converter is determined by the efficiency of the quarter-wave retarder and the transmittance of light at the end face of the light pipe. The typical wide-bandwidth quarter-wave retarder available at present has an efficiency of approximately 75%. The transmittance at the end face of a light pipe is 96%. Therefore, the efficiency of the polarizer converter is calculated to be 69%.
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| tomithy83 |
| gunawan i've been planing to dop this very sae thing with a halogen bulb thanks for solidifing the idea (in my head) |
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| jamie |
| for you newbies theres some good info on page 119 |
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| prjctr_builder |
| quote: | Originally posted by Gunawan W
I have an idea about cooling system.
It's using water for heat transfer.
See in my webpages below:
water cooler |
this is the exact same idea i had, but it failed in the end because the whole design has to be huge to work, plus it is hella loud. i think that you should rethink your idea a little. Especially because i came up with it first...hehe
aleksey |
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| dwalls32 |
| Actually, it shouldn't have to be that big to work. Think pc size water cooling systems. Besides, space beats noise. |
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| BennySP |
Hey sorry to do this, but 134 pages is too much to catch up on. Just wanna get some help before I order the parts for a summer project.
Basic Plan
1) I want to keep if relatively small, no big OHP. So, I plan to use the 5" Thin LCD module from partsexpress.com, #205-013, 960x234 pixels
2) I would like to use a cluser of LED's, probably around 30, but I can go higher. I'd like to keep this relatively cheap. How do I arrange these? Can someone please post a picture of how the cluster should be setup, (I could use less or more white LED's, just suggest). Also, how are they kept in place? set up? pictures woudl be really helpful
3) I'd like to keep this striaght, as in leds to lcd, no mirrors in between, just for simplicity, first video projection project.
4) What lenses will I need, I am guessing a condensor for hte leds, and a projection lens. Any specific lens suggestions would be helpful (as in exact part).
5) What power supply will I need for say the LCD and up to 50 of the white LED's.
I think I have covered everything, if I missed something, go ahead and suggest it. Thanks in advance. |
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| xblocker |
BennySP,
It may be anyhow cheaper to use the search function in this thread, look for 'led", before you kick off your money! There isn't a full working version of a LED-light based projector!
Just an advice...
xblocker
P.S. At the bottom of the side click 'show printable version'. All posts on one site. |
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