| Flemming J P |
I have just bought a reVox B226S and I was wondering how hard it would be to get spare part for the CDM-1 transport?
It isn't broken.... yet, but it is a cool transport that I would like to have a long life. |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hello Flemming J P,
from memory think this is older type mech and laser assy.
Philips/Marantz were original supplier - Also other comsumer equipment parts suppliers.
Various model Phillips CDP mechs went into a lot of different audio systems - even Taiwan type 4in1 systems.
In servicing a lot (hundreds) of Philips and Marantz cdps,
I found overwhelmingly dry joints and mechanical faults before faulty laser assembly.
Common mechanical problem was stiff pivot bearings - if bolt and bearing race type back the nut off 1/2 - 1 turn so arm pivots freely, if 2 ball bearing type remove and bend springy plate slightly so less pressure on bearing balls, clean bearing surfaces and relube with Dexron auto transmission oil.
You will need Torx screwdriver for working on these.
Also clean lens carefully with dry cotton bud - no solvents - may remove optical coating.
Another cheap source maybe is second hand/old Philips/Marantz machines from loppemarket etc. or local repair shops will usually have an old written off machine they might part with.
Hope this helps,
Regards Eric McMillan. |
|
|
| capslock |
Goodday Eric,
how do you recognize stiff bearings? My CD-931 which uses a CDM9/65 started to develop skipping, almost always on tracks 1 and 2, at first only onesome disks and only when it was still cold, i.e. not yet warmed up by the amp it used to sit on, later on practically all disks and also when warm
I found the pivot arm to move freely, at least to my feel. I checked the output of the tracking and focus servos, and the output looked ok, i.e. +/- several 100 mV of offset, depending on where on the disk I was and a low frequency modulation of about also several 100 mV. Hence I concluded there was no mechanical problem. The eye pattern also looked ok to me.
I found the grounding and decoupling to be terrible on the focus and tracking amps. When I redid that, the player worked ok for a couple of months but then everything began once again.
I can get a supposed replacement transport (CDM9/44) for about 100 Euro but that seems to big an investment for an unsure outcome. I have basically written off the player but wouldn't mind a cheap cure.
1) Is there any way to check my diagnosis that there was no mechanical fault?
2) I thought it might be the laser diode loosing power, Elso tends to agree. Do you have any experience in readjusting the laser power?
Greetings,
Eric |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hello Capslock and all,| quote: | 1) Is there any way to check my diagnosis that there was no mechanical fault?
2) I thought it might be the laser diode loosing power, Elso tends to agree. Do you have any experience in readjusting the laser power? |
If you give the swing arm a flick it should bounce off the end stops back and forth nicely a few times - not much stiffer than this and they don't like it.
Spin motors also give problems - low currents cause/allow oxidation of commutator or something - causes slowish enough spin up of disc to cause error - Pioneer cdp suffers this badly/regularly - A cure is, disconnect any connection from the motor to any pcbs, with disc loaded so as to give flywheel, apply 10V or so and spin motor upto a medium speed and quickly swap polarity - the disc will slow and then reverse - do this cycle a dozen times and this should give better motor performance.
Also droplet of Dexron ATF in all bearings including slides and motor shaft.
To adjust laser current, first step is with a fine permanent marker (go and get it now before you start to tweak anything !!!!!!), make sure you mark the laser power trimpot position accurately and tweak it either way in steps of 10 degrees or so - too low and no tracking and too high can cause photo diode preamp overload - carefull tweaking and you can get it. Also hold an ear close and have a close listen to the sound emitted by the lens actuators - 'fine' tune it this way - this can subtely alter the audio output.
The first repair step however is to resolder any joints that you don't like the look of - power supplies, connnectors, surface mount ics, driver stages, anything that runs hot, etc..... be thorough - Philips soldering process sucks bad in my experience........ use good solder...... Multicore Savbit 2% copper solder wets nicely and sounds good to me......
If you can make it work that is great, if you have a bunky laser assembly that's just too bad, but it can be good fun trying - I hope that you have had fun learning by experience and thereby better equipped for the next time.
Experience ? - Several thousand cd playeys of all types during 25 or so years repairing all sorts of makes and types of hi-end and domestic and pro audio stuff - and video and tv and just about anything else that plugs in or runs on batteries etc.............
Also some pretty interesting experimenting too.
If anybody has any such questions please feel free to ask - maybe I can help.
Regards, Eric. |
|
|
| capslock |
Hi Eric,
thanks for all this useful information. I tried the spinning motor part, will reassemble the transport before I start operating on the pivot arm.
The CDM9 is the tiny unit with the chrome-alloy chassis. The pivot arm with the laser assembly seems to have a default null position at about 1/3 of its possible path from center to edge. This position seems to be defined by some sort of rotational spring mechanism. When I give the arm a kick towards the center, it won't even reach the far-end stop, it will simply bounce off the center stop, travel slightly beyond the null position and then return to it. When I kick it to the far-end stop, it will bounce back, bounce against the center stop and come to rest at the null position.
Is this normal? I still assume that a stiff bearing would produce very high servo output voltages, which I don't see.
By the way, this is the first pick-up on which I haven't seen a pot to adjust the laser power. Maybe I will see it when I disassemble the spring that holds the bearing.
The lubricant that you describe, do you know what it contains? Or is it really automobile transmission oil? I would have tried some WB40, but was not sure about its outgassing properties.
Greetings,
Eric |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hello capslock, in the older mechanisms, the laser current/coil current ribbon cable causes the the swing arm to come to rest around 1/3rd way out from center.
It should pivot freely between end stops and come to rest gently.
This ribbon is glued to a chassis plate and can become unstuck, and foul the swing arm preventing the arm going all the way to the center of the disc - no read TOC, no play disc.
The laser power pot is somewhere on servo pcb.
"To adjust laser current, first step is with a fine permanent marker (go and get one now before you start to tweak anything !!!!!!)".
Dexron ATF is indeed automotive automatic transmission oil - years ago somebody told me that it has bronze dissolved into it to prevent bronze/brass thrust plates from erosion.
I have been using it for 15 years on fine mechanicals without grief - sewing machine oil oxidises and turns to gum - even seizing small DC motor bearings.
WD40 is only suitable for undoing seized nuts or for lubing your front gate - the inventors of this **** should be shot.
Also it will creep throughout the whole chassis, getting onto belts and pulleys etc, and also evaporates and recondenses onto other parts including lenses.
DO NOT USE THIS TRASH - you have been told :)
Hope this can help - let us all know what you find,
Regards, Eric.
PS - Don't ever use belt grip either - yep, I've seen it all ! |
|
|
| capslock |
To my name-fellow:
Well, all I have handy for is some super high quality engine oil for my car. My ask my colleague who is a car repair nut for some transmission oil, automatic transmissions are not common here...
The whole Philips CD-931 PCB does not have a single pot, as it was one of the first CD players to use fully digital servo circuits (believe it or not, I just bought a new cheapo Kenwood changer with Sony Chipset that still has three pots for tracking offset and gain and PPL gain).
On more modern Philips players with the CDM-12 transport, the laser power pot is situated on the ribbon cable, along with either a TDA???? or some discrete circuit.
Greetings,
Eric |
|
|
| capslock |
The chip that can sit on the ribbon cable is a TDA1302 photo diode amp and laser diode driver.
When you do the spin-the-motor-hard trick, use an old CD-ROM as a flywheel, by all means! The magnetic puck in my CDM9 does not really center all to well, so the rotation is slightly excentric. At the high rmps induced by appling 10 V to the turntable mote, the disk would sometimes hit the tray. This ruined the surface of the disk. Fornutately, I used a CD-ROM that I had made for listening in the car, so I can make another copy.
The ribbon cable seems to be causing the self-centering effect but it is not glued to the chassis, but clamped in a position well-defined by the design of the chassis. I have not yet taken apart the mount/bearing assembly as the TORX key needed is so small it is not in my set. I have, however, loosened the spring a little. See what happens... Having a measureable criterion like "AC voltage on tracking servo output not to exceed 500 mV" would be really helpful, though. Any experience?
On second thought, I don't think it is the laser that causes the skipping. I have one type of CD-ROM raw disk that seems to have such a low reflectivity that many older and some new audio players won't play it. On the Phillips, it caused no more and no less problems than any regular CD. If the laser was dying, the problems would have been more pronounced with this type of CD-ROM...
Eric |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hello Eric, (good name!)
" At the high rmps induced by appling 10 V to the turntable mote, the disk would sometimes hit the tray. "
Aaahh, you did not read closely enough - " apply 10V or so and spin motor upto a medium speed and quickly swap polarity - the disc will slow and then reverse " - see !, it says medium speed! :)
In jap machines, a cause of track 1&2 mistracking is piece of junk on turntable causing the disc to wobble (disc is spinning fastest here) and causing lens to run out of travel, or focus servo to run out of frequency response and/or clipping, also DC offset.
Another cause is buffer under run causing interrupted audio, caused by slowish spin motor (bad commutator contacts).
To tell properly you need a CRO to look at the focus and tracking coil drive signals and the EFM Signal (Eye-Pattern).
This should tell you whats is going on.
I have replaced plenty of jap pickups where the emitted red light looks to be ok, but will not give a good enough efm signal to work.
I understand that the focus and tracking photo diodes can become noisey or something.
There was also a Yamaha pickup with a s/mount PD preamp ic that went faulty.
Sony Kss-240 pickups with preamp and PDs on the same chip can go bad too - a lot !.
Photo diodes seem to be a bit unreliable in other applications too.
I have also recovered some pickups by removing lens assy covers and cleaning internal prism surfaces - this is pretty tricky but.
Maybe this can help.
Regards, Eric von Downunder. |
|
|
| capslock |
What is a CRO? I have looked at the focus and tracking driver outputs with a DSO (digital sampling oscilloscope) and as I said, there is no sign of overdrive, at least amplitude-wise.
The turn-table, or rather the magnetic puck is definitely junk. It has too much play, so it can clamp onto the turn-table knob it different positions. When the CD has been loaded by the tray mechanism, the puck will ususally (but not always) wobble by 1-2 mm. I can use my fingernails to adjust it so it wobbles by only 1/10th of that. Vibration of the metal turntable chassis is substantially reduced. However, there was no correlation whatsover between the positioning of the puck and the skipping problem...
Eric |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hiya,
CRO = Cathode Ray Oscilloscope.
Standard old type cro is better for seeing fine moving detail.
The out of center puck magnet does not matter - a Photo copy of s/manual would be a big benefit to you now.
You need to to check the efm signal next.
Regards, eric von downunder. |
|
|
| FBJ |
Hello mrfeedback
Hope you might be able to help me with what I think will be a problem with my Parasound C/DP-1000 compact disc player. I haven't had time to open the thing to see if something is rubbing, but there is a rubbing or stratching noise that I hear sometime when a disc is playing. Any ideas you have would be heplful. I am not asking you to fix my player but just give me a guess what could be wrong.
Thanks.:rolleyes: |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hello FBJ,
Probably look for sagging suspension springs or suspension rubbers - but you need to look take the lid off first. :D
I have to go - she who must be obeyed is waiting....... :)
Let us all know what you find.
Regards, Eric |
|
|
| FBJ |
| Thanks for getting back with me quick. I will open the CD player up this weekend. And yes, I am familiar with the program about " she, who must be obeyed". |
|
|
| capslock |
Hi Eric from downunder,
I would greatly appreciate your help. Followed your advice and lubricated the bearing of my CDM9/65 with car oil. I also tried to bend the steel sheet that serves as a spring and mount at the same time. All of the sudden, the laser arm would move only sluggishly and wiggle a little in its mount.
Well, ordered a small Torx bit (by the way, its size is T5 - not in my Torx set and not at all easy to get!) and had a look. Apparently, the "ball bearing" consisted of the single ball that was caught between a shallow ditch in the plastic top of the laser arm and another shallow ditch in the steel sheet. This ball must have gone awry when I tried to bend the sheet. Do you have any idea, i.e. from the manual of another player, what the diameter of this ball was?
Thanks,
Eric from the other side |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hiya Eric von Deutchland,
The first thing to do is take a close look and see if the ball is stuck to the magnet assembly.
If no joy, the next thing is to take a speaker magnet and get down on the floor and sweep everywhere until you find it.
This is known as workshop praying !.
These little critters can bounce a long way !
If you still have no joy, then a ball around 2.5mm (from memory)
should do - the radius of the ball depressions should tell you the exact size that you need.
Good luck, and this happens to the best of us !.
Regards, Eric. |
|
|
| capslock |
Unfortunately, I don't remember in which room I played with the spring. One has been vacuumed since, and search in the other candidate revealed nothing. I will look at the magnet.
Hope anybody planning to operate on his CDM9 reads my post before getting started.
Cheers,
Eric |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Eric, this happens to the best of us !. i.e. - prior preparation prevents a **** poor performance !
"Unfortunately, I don't remember in which room I played with the spring".
Alzheimers ? - Now called CRAFT Disease - Can't Remember A ********** Thing !
The definition of wisdom - Learning by other peoples' mistakes !.
Just a few little jokes to cheer you up until you find that damn bearing ball.
Sympathies, Eric. |
|
|
| capslock |
Well, Eric from downunder,
I picked up the transport mechanism again. This time I found the ball, and it was indeed sticking to the magnet. Must have been in hiding somewhere inside the first time I looked.
I reassembled the drive and hooked it up in a quick and dirty way and the player will now play even the disks it liked worst without a single skip. Don't know if it was the greasing or the spinning of the tray motor that did the job, but it must have been one of the two. And to think what I tried on that player, like cleaning the optics, looking at the eye pattern, cleaning up the grounds and the power supply.
I had not listened to this player in a long time. I know feel that in spite of the many tweaks (tent clock, power supply, output filter) its DAC7 convertor sounds uninspired compared to my AD1854 & ECL clock that I added onto the Kenwood el cheapo player without modifications to the supply or transport.
Greetings,
Eric |
|
|
| Brett |
<b>Philips CDM-1
I have just bought a reVox B226S and I was wondering how hard it would be to get spare part for the CDM-1 transport?
It isn't broken.... yet, but it is a cool transport that I would like to have a long life.</b>
Hi JP,
Contact Revox and ask them about spares availability. I wouldn't be surprised if they have a reasonable cache, and have always found the Studer/Revox people (here on Gilligans Island at least)to be very knowledgable and helpful in the past. If their stocks on spares are low, buy a spare laser and spindle motor now.
I agree the Revox is a cool transport. Nearly bought one myself, but got a Krell instead. Now the Krell's OK, but it doesn't look half as cool in the rack as a B226 would with the B215 and PR99.
TTFN |
|
|
| Flemming J P |
Arrrggg Didn't hope that I would need spare parts so fast, but...
and yes it has caused by a bad mod.
Symtoms:
At power on, the VC pin (from the control board to the motorboard) is around 0v and slowy raises to 1.25v. I have checked the input voltages and they seem to be ok (8v, 5v, -5v, -12v)
I guess I fried the TDA5708 and possibly also the TDA5709. Am I way of course or do I need go looking for those ICs? If so were can I find them? |
|
|
| guido |
Hi,
Maybe i can help if you can be a bit more specific about your problem. What is not working, disk spinning, focus or laser ?
Got an old Philips 650 with CDM2 transport and the servicemanual for it. This unit also contains the 57xx chips.
It must be possible to pin-point the defective parts by doing more measuring following the servicemanual.
laser control = 5708,
radial arm control = 5709
disk spinning control = 7210
Reply with some more info and maybe i can help,
Guido |
|
|
| Flemming J P |
It's the speed control that is the problem.
You can get it spinning if you help it start, but it doesn't get to any usable speed and it's keep spinning.
So it must be the 7210?
Nope, it's just me.
I didn't think that the 7210 had anything to do with spinning. I have an external power supply for my clock and no I did'nt turn it on because it didn't think it had anything to do with spinning.
No clock = no spinning = me felling very stupid.
I think the world would be a safer place if I just went to bed :D |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Mr. Feedback,
As you have much experience in repairing CDP's I take the liberty to ask for some advice.
After I replaced the laserunit in my Sony CDPX33 ESD I found it was skipping. After examining the steel rod that functions as a glider for the lasercarriage I found it has become dull. I polished it with household Brasso and things went much better.
What do you advice to use as lubrification for the rod? The carriage has brass that fits tightly around the rod.
I used Molykote before but I have the impression it makes the rod dull. Now I am using Teflon, used as a engine motor oil additive.
What lubrification do you advice? Gear box oil??? :confused:
Thanks in advance,
Happy newyear,
ELSO |
|
|
| jean-paul |
Hi Elso,
You didn't ask me but I feel free to answer. I use Break Free Teflon oil. Any good "thin" synthetic oil will do. Avoid grease since it makes problems worse.
A drop is too much ! Just put some on a soft cloth and rub it on the rod. Always clean the rod before lubricating with some alcohol.
Again for those that don't know: DON'T USE ALCOHOL FOR CLEANING THE LASER !!! Just to prevent you from cleaning off the coating of the lens.
My Capslock isn't stuck but I meet wiseguys every now and then that tell me to use alcohol. I know better.
Regards,
Jean-Paul |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hi Elso,
I have used Dexron auto transmission fluid (red auto gearbox oil) for lubricating small mechanisms for 15 years now and it has worked fine for me.
A drop on each sintered bushing that runs on the rod is plenty.
On most Jap mechanisms, the laser assy has a pair of fingers that contact the sub-chassis on the side opposite to the sled rod.
On some sub chassis there is a thin plastic plate fitted that warps and causes binding.
The soloution is to remove the laser pickup and file away (0.5mm or so) the lower of the two fingers.
If you remove the last gear (the one that couples to the rack gear on the pickup), the laser pickup should slide freely end to end when the chassis is tilted.
Hope this helps,
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
Thanks but I am not sure I understand about the "finger" touching the subchassis.
I have a linear motor in my Sony. It works without toothed wheels. But I learned from my time as a repairman that the subchassis of the laserunit sould not touch the main chassis.
I will try the oil you recommended.;) |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric (Mrfeedback),
Things are going nuch better now but I still have a serious problem with a large trackjump f.a. going from track 1 to track 40. If succeeding it takes too much time but in most instances it simply fails giving the <I>no disc</I> message on the display. Could it be a rotten spindle motor? I never replaced a spindle motor in my repaircarreer but I worked mostly on brand new units.
I just sprayed the brushes with tuner 600 and for the time being it is working! I noticed that the motor is accelerating instead of breaking with the above mentioned trackjump.
Thanks a million for the advice. ;):confused: |
|
|
| guido |
Elso,
The disc is read from inside to outside with more or less the same amount of data in one turn. So on the outside the info on the disk is not so dense.
To get the same flow of data to the decoder, the disc needs to spin faster on the outside. Going from 1 to 40, the disk will start spinning faster.
Greetings,
Guido B. |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hi Elso,
"Thanks but I am not sure I understand about the "finger" touching the subchassis.
I have a linear motor in my Sony."
Ok, the advice I gave was for mechs with one rail, and rack gear drive.
In your case, with two rails and linear motor, same deal applies.
Clean (isopropyl) the rails, and relube with ATF, and check that the sled will travel end to end smoothly by tilting the mech.
Take a look at solder joints in tracking/focus servo driver stages, and resolder as required.
Ditto power supplies and regulator stages.
The symptom you give indicates loss of tracking, and then disc spin up (overspeed).
Mark all trimpots carefully with a pen, and try increasing tracking gain and laser power a little.
Take a look at the HF waveform with a CRO, and fine tune the servo gains and offsets for cleanest HF waveform.
Is the spin motor standard DC brush motor, or electronic DD motor ?.
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
Thanks a lot for the help.
The spindle motor is a standard DC brush motor. Well standard? I checked for the motor in four abandoned players but these had other models. Today I will order a new motor.
Eyepattern from the laser is abosolutely perfect and focus and tracking gain adjustment don't change it. I also checked the solderjoints and powersupplies. The lasercarriage has very low friction now as it moves when the player is tilted only a few degrees.
BTW I have only one rail. The other end of the carriage rest on a wheel!
Guido, I am sorry, your are totally wrong. At track one the disc spins at highest speed at track 70 it spins at lowest speed!;) |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Elso, you can fix the spin motor, usually.
The normal failure mode is that the commutator goes noisey contacts.
The soloution is as follows - load a disc into the mech.
Disconnect motor wires and connect motor to a DC supply (6V or so) momentarily until speed is up to normal high speed (500 rpm) and then quickly reverse the polarity so that the disc slows down and then reverses direction back upto 500 rpm or so, and reverse the supply again - a reversing switch is a good tool here.
Do this spin-up and reversal at least several times to clear and renew the commutator contacts, and you should be ok.
The commutator contacts go sour due to low currents and low voltages in normal operation.
RF-310 motors and a few others commonly go bad like this, and the symptoms are no disc rotation due to motor parking on a bad spot, or especially in Pioneer players, slow spin up to speed and therefore no TOC loading, or if it does play, when getting to end of disc (200 rpm) speed stability suffers and the buffer memory empties giving gated audio output, mistracking, or the player spits the dummy and displays 'no disc'.
Eric. |
|
|
| guido |
Elso, others,
Sorry, wrote something without checking... You are right!
You most probably know this, but to set things right for others who are mislead by my earlier comment:
Density is equal (pits have the same size) on the whole of the disk. Therefore the disk needs to spin
slower at the edge (one rev gives more pits/data on the outside than the inside).
This way a constant transfer rate is obtained. Inside ~539 RMP, outside ~210 RPM.
Will check things a better in the future. Can't help you on the Sony, i have no experience with those
(only my own philips).
Happy New Year!
Guido B. |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Elso, can you post a pix of the mech and pcb ? - then I know which machine we are talking about - the model number does not ring a bell right now, but that does not mean anything - mech and pcb pictures will.
Anyway, if your machine has a PLL oscillator coil with adjustable ferrite slug for center frequency, then if the free run frequency is too far out, then you will get symptoms like you describe - 'no disc' when track jumping - dodgy spin motor can cause this too - see above post.
Another method is a PLL trimpot, and some machines have no adjustment.
If you need to adjust PLL center frequency, ask and I'll tell you how.
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
I ordered and replaced the spindle motor. It came with a large chunck of gray plastic and I had to break of two pillars to make it fit. It was for the CDP-X339ES. And I ordered for the CDP-X33ES or CDP-X333ES.
The track jump is still not fast enough but it reaches the track without going into error.
Another very weird phenomenon occurred:
When cold and power applied the player goes into play mode on power on (autoplaymode) but runs 10 seconds at <B><I>half</B></I> speed; then speeds up and sound goes dead, then a loud noise comes from the speakers and eventually it sounds OK in the middle of track 1.
When the CDP is on for a few minutes this strange behavior does not occur. I suspect the PLL, but how do I get it better? :confused:
Even more weird: sound is <B>much</B> better than with the old laser. Both are KSS271A.
I am sorry I have no picture. This CDP does not have a adjustable PLL. It uses CXA1372 and CXD2500Q
:confused: :confused: |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
"This CDP does not have a adjustable PLL."
Ok, this is not the problem then.
Elso, in my experience I do not trust soldering on the flatpack smd packages, and resoldering these has cured a lot of problems for me in the past.
Perhaps you need to check and adjust servo DC offsets, and maybe increase tracking and focus gains.
Apart from that I have not seen the fault that you describe.
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
| quote: | Originally posted by mrfeedback
[b
Elso, in my experience I do not trust soldering on the flatpack smd packages, and resoldering these has cured a lot of problems for me in the past.
Perhaps you need to check and adjust servo DC offsets, and maybe increase tracking and focus gains.
Apart from that I have not seen the fault that you describe.
Eric. |
Hi Eric ,
Thanks a lot for the help. This is also my experience. Very often these SMD IC's are badly soldered. I also have the impression that the soldertype used by Sony gets worse over time. It looses its shine and when heated it does not flow. Weird. I repaired my TV-set by resoldering . Will see if it helps my CDP. Thanks again. :) |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
I resoldered the PLL lowpassfilterside of the CXD2500Q.
I exorcized the crazyness!
Thanks a lot!:) :) |
|
|
| chris ma |
Hi all,
I have a old brand new vcd cd mp3 player that when power on, insert a cd, close the tray, then the cd disc only spin a third of a turn and stop spinning. The the laser assembly was moving up and down and then the display says no disc.
I have used 4 of 1.5V AA batteries to test the spinning motor and it spins ok. Where else I should look into to find the fault.
Thanks,
Chris |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
| quote: | Originally posted by Elso Kwak
Hi Eric,
I resoldered the PLL lowpassfilterside of the CXD2500Q.
I exorcized the crazyness!
Thanks a lot!:) :) |
Hey, now in addition to tuning televisions and vcrs by telephone, I can now repair CD players by internet. :)
No wuckin' furries, my pleasure and glad to be of help. ;)
BTW if you resolder that chip with say 96S you will get a different (I reckon nicer) sound and LMP stuffs it up (imo).
Eric.
Sorry to give you more homework. :D |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
96S and LMP?:confused:
Sorry I always have problems with abreviations in English. It is not my first language.
A kind of solder and ???:confused: :confused: |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
By 96S I mean Multicore 96S - 96 % Tin and 4 % Silver.
Multicore LMP is 60% Lead, 38% Tin, and 2% Silver.
In my exerience LMP is initially impressive for (false) detail but long term irritant.
Short term, 96S can be seemingly dull-ish, but long term very pleasing and nicely detailed, and comfortable sounding.
96S is better conducting than LMP or standard solders, and this is part of the effect, but not the whole thing.
Surprisingly 96S makes a nice difference to digital stages ICs, and this permeates through to the analogue stages.
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
| quote: | Originally posted by mrfeedback
By 96S I mean Multicore 96S - 96 % Tin and 4 % Silver.
Multicore LMP is 60% Lead, 38% Tin, and 2% Silver.
In my exerience LMP is initially impressive for (false) detail but long term irritant.
Short term, 96S can be seemingly dull-ish, but long term very pleasing and nicely detailed, and comfortable sounding.
96S is better conducting than LMP or standard solders, and this is part of the effect, but not the whole thing.
Surprisingly 96S makes a nice difference to digital stages ICs, and this permeates through to the analogue stages.
Eric. |
Hi Eric,
You must be joking, or teasing me!
Never tried my clock or the Lcaudio thingy in a CDP??:D :xeye: |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hi Elso.
I am perfectly serious in what I said, and no I have not gotten around to building one of your oscillator circuits yet - one day soon.
Eric. |
|
|
| Elso Kwak |
Hi Eric,
On www.farnell.com I could find 96S solder but this is with acid core for construction purposes, not for electronics.
www.conrad.com has 96C solder with 1.5% flux (colophonion). Leadfree Sn: 95.5%; Ag: 3.8% and Cu: 0.7%. Is the type of solder you mean?.:confused: Pretty expensive though. |
|
|
| mrfeedback |
Hi Elso,
If you can find a Multicore wholesaler you should be able to get 96S.
96SC I have not tried yet, but I expect it to be good, probably better than 96S.
And yes these solders are expensive, but I do prefer the sound of lead-free ime so far.
The solders I have contain standard rosin core flux.
Eric. |
|
|
| capslock |
| quote: | Originally posted by jean-paul
Again for those that don't know: DON'T USE ALCOHOL FOR CLEANING THE LASER !!! Just to prevent you from cleaning off the coating of the lens.
My Capslock isn't stuck but I meet wiseguys every now and then that tell me to use alcohol. I know better.
|
Well, I have used ethanol (household alcohol), isopropyl alcohol and a special lens cleaning mix that contains ethanol and ether (I work for an optics compancy) without any problems on various Philips and Sony lenses.
Still, you may be right, there may be some coatings that don't like that kind of treatment. |
|
|
| NoBit |
Hello
I'm here to find help before I complitely getting crazy...
I resoldered, recapped,reoiled the motor spindle, adjusted the laser arm to twist freely of a CDX with CDM1 transport. All is working fine but sometimes when the unit is powered up, after the focusing and after the spindle start, the "error" message appears; the only remedy is to remove the disk and place in again. After this operation, all works hreat, no jump, traking is perfect.
What I could check ?
Greetings from italy |
|
|
| guido |
The servicemanual :D
Send me a pm (hint):smash: |
|
|
| garwoodv6 |
Well, I trietPM you, but this forum won't let me email or PM you, Guido. Somehow, it still thinks I'm a new user and is restricting my priveleges... I tried to contact the moderator, according to instruction the moderator' s link should be at the bottom of the thread. Ive looked and can't find who the moderater is...:xeye:
Wil you PM or email me so we can work this out? :) |
|
|
| NoBit |
hello garwood
Do you need help?
Let me know, maybe I can help you |
|
|
| NoBit |
Hello
I still continue to try to fix the problem;
The new scenario:
If the cd has more than 14 tracks and the last is totally played, after powering off the unit and repowered (with the cd still inside) the unit fails to read TOC.
The second time (repowered again) the TOC is readed correctly.
If I put the unit in vertical position (the front panel down) this error doesn't appears.
I tryed to modify the turntable height, the focus offset, the focus bandwidth and finally the laser power but nothing solve the problem.
Could be a not totally correct swing arm alignment?
Thanks a lot
ciao ciao
Eugenio |
|
|
| poynton |
From your description, I would guess the swing arm is not entirely free to return properly.
It may be the bearing or the cable.
Andy |
|
|
| NoBit |
for the bearing I adjusted the "pressure" as described in one of the first post in this topic, now it moves much more better opposing a very few force.
The cable... I have deeply cecked the two flat cables and they seems ok
This evening I'll try to realign the swing arm manually; maybe the arm in vertical position moves just a little to realign itself respect to the turntable... I tryed to adjust the electronic part but none is changed, in some cases the solution was in removing the cd and place again on the turntable.
What do you think?
This is my hobby, I love it because helps my brain to stay up :smash:
thanks a lot
ciao ciao
Eugenio |
|
|
| NoBit |
Test still continue.
I replaced the entire transport with another cdm1 and the problem still continue, less than the other (due to a different pots setting) but it is present.
Observing the unit i think that the problem is generated by the focus detection; while the arm is turning to the center of the disc (parking position) the turntable start, it seem that the focus is found during the arm movement to the center, so because the TOC isn't found the disc rotation speed increase and the error message is simply the result (when the lens is under the TOC section the disc speed is too high).
Now I'm trying to decrease the focus so the disc starts only when the arm is in "parking" position.
ciao ciao
Eugenio |
|
|
|
