| Dwiel |
Hello,
As you have probobly guessed correctly, I have goofed up my controller card connection to the LCD in my NEC 1545v... I am going to try to repair it with a ton of small wires and solder, but Im not sure how sucsessful I'll be. If anyone happens to have one of these guys lying around, Id be more than happy to take it off your hands for some money ;-) more than you'll get on ebay...
What I have, now, looks like this:
If anyone has one of these to sell to me, I'd be more than happy to take up the offer ;-)
Thanks a bunch... Also, if anyone knows where I have a slim chance of picking one up, I'd be more than happy for that information too :-)
Thanks again |
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| Dwiel |
Hello, I have been reading all of the flat cable threads for the 3rd and 4th time, realizing that I am not really dealing with the typical ffc problem. I need to, somehow, get this connector:
to connect to the board above. That connector is already connected to a flat cable type thing, but the connections are so small, I'm not sure Im going to be able to solder wires to where I want.
What I thought might make this fix possible, would be if I could find a connector like the one above, by itself, so it's easy to soldier to... instead of trying to soldier to a ton of tiny exposed wires comming out of the flat cable end.
Basically, my problem is different than most due to the fact that I need to connect to the controller board myself... there is no connector... only places where solder used to be.
I am also thinking about trying one of those liquid metal pens and make the connections that way, but there still isnt very much room for error and not much room on the board... Im probably going to have to extend the actual controller board if I want to do this... *sigh*
If anyone has any ideas I'd more than happy to hear them
Also, does anyone know anyway I can get past all of the 'internal part' BS that I get from the manufacture, (NEC)? When I called them, they said that they can not sell me a part and that the only way I cna get it replaced is to send the monitor in to them, have them fix it, then them send it back. This really isnt viable even if I did come up with the best excuse ever for an internal connection to be ripped apart ;-), because I dont have the origional monitor's case. So, does anyone know how I can get past this BS. It really chaps my *** that there is a warehouse full of these things and they arent willing to freakin take my money for some.
[END RANT]
I'd really appreciate any and all help!
Thanks! |
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| Wes Marquenie |
| Can't you desolder the connector from the flex cable and the make a pcb whith it can be soldered on. The tracks on the pcb can lead to wider spaced pads/holes to connect the wires. |
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| Dwiel |
I think I understand what you are saying...
you think I should desolder the connector and then solder it back onto a new board?...
I have pretty much determined that if I have to actually, solder wires that as close together as the ones exitng the flat cable or the ones that connect the flat cable to the connector, Im not going to be able to do it.
I think I might be able to simply use that liquid metal pen stuff and space out the pins of both the connector and the controller board, then solder those connections together, but Im not sure how well this will work...
Does that idea sound pretty good? How acurate can you be with one of those pens? How well do they hold up to a soldering iron?
Thanks for the idea! |
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| cruser |
dwiel
your best bet would be to buddy up with someone at a tv/electronic repair shop they will be able to order that part for you
just locate a repair shop that deals with nec equipment and your golden |
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| ace3000_1 |
| quote: | | your best bet would be to buddy up with someone at a tv/electronic repair shop they will be able to order that part for you |
orrrrrrrrrrr send it to me and ill solder them on for u, a normal soldering iron wont do it cos its too hot, it will melt the cable and the tip is too big weather sharpend or not, liquid pens wont work either cos those pads are far to small for the liquid to not run and destroy the circut, not only that the liquid wont hold the wire on there to the contact, id modify the the controller and do away with the flex cable if u can, i have a modified soldering iron here that i modded for super fine gear, its the only thing that will do it, as for getting that part replaced be prepared to pay, its not impossible to get and what cruser said should be viable but u will have to pay a mint for the part because that part is classed as a specialised item and when anything is specialised these bastards charge, not only that its even hard for a techy to even get that part, hence throw away society. Id be inclined to email a few lcd refurbishing places to see if they have that part laying around from a smashed lcd or somthing.
Trev |
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| Dwiel |
Ill be contacting all local NEC distrubuters/repair shops today in hope that one of them will be able to oreder the part for me...
ace: thanks for the offer to solder it for me, but Id like to try some other methods before I ship it off to spain. ;-)... also, if you can see it in the picture, one of the flat cables was torn as I pulled it out, so Im sure sure how you'd go about soldering to it... Also, I will check out my schools tools, maybe they have something like what you've got. Ill definately keep the offer to let you do it in my head, but Id like to try other, quicker, possiblities first.... unless of course, you aren't in spain, and it really wont take that long... how long would it take to mail to/from spain?
Thanks again for all of the help guys!
Ill let you know how the local repair shops go! |
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| ace3000_1 |
heya dweil its about 10days with normal airmail and 5 days with priority, not sure how u tore the cable, i did see that in the pic, i guess u didnt undo the small cable clamp first cos if u dont undo the clamp u will tear the cable trying to get it when clamped, when un clamped they pull strait out, most just fall out.
Trev |
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| Dwiel |
My flat cables normally would fall out from me just looking at them...
So I thought it would be good id I epoxy the connection together so I wouldnt have to worry about the loose connection anymore.
Even though I watched the picture while the epoxy dried for 6 hours, and it was perfect the whole time, after the epoxy dried when I ent to bed, it seemed to have slipped between the connector and the flat cable... The picture had every blue pixel lit :-(... SO I had to somehow get the epoxy out and the flat connector so I could fix it.
epoxy is pretty damn strong substance... Im surprised I was able to salvage as much as I did really...
Do you really think you can solder it ace? I might try at school, they have a really nice soldering iron, etc... what type of solder do you recomend for this kind of job?
Also, if I cant get a hold of a service repair shop locally or fix it at school, I'll let you know.
Thanks! |
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| ace3000_1 |
Yeah i dont ever use epoxy, they shouldnt be loose when the clamp is closed or in the clamped posion, they should only be loose when the clamp is open so that the cable comes free, when those clamps are stuffed they are realy stuffed , u basicaly cant fix them, no clamp no circut, if however u have to use some epoxy or glue go for some super glue and only very tiny amounts to tack it first, get it working when tacked then cover with glue, generally its a bad idea, and in your case it proved that theroy, but when used right and very causiously its ok, maybe also the epoxy u had had carbon in it for strength and maybe was causing some of the terminals to short out and could have been the reason why u only had blue working, carbon is electrically conductive and its some thing u need to look at when u purchase a glue also, what damage is done where? even with a riped ribbon its repairable aslong as the lcd's ribbon end is ok, is it possible to show a pic with all of the components layed out to show where the ribbons go so we can see the state of the damage? maybe there is a easy way to fix it without soldering anything. The best solder to use is a very fine solder, somthing that has very small flux, the soldering iron tip has to be either a pin or a large needle or if ground down to a very long taperd point, the wire u would need would have to be about 1/4 of the size of udma ide cable, u may not find cable that small, but u can resort to the resin coated copper wire found in coils to make up a link to another pcb with bigger contacts that was stated by another in a previous post.
Trev |
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| CRISPdollaz |
damn dude, that really sucks... Sorry :(
I'm using that same panel, and luckily I've had no problems with it yet, and it has been apart and handled for many months now. I highly doubt any of us, or any experienced electronics engineer could fix that. The cable is way too thin and small.
First see if that part can be ordered. If not call around to repair shops and ask if they have any 1545v's laying around that you may be able to pull the connector from. Or even look for one online that is broken? I dont know what else to recommend. Good luck! :xeye:
If something catastrophic happens to my LCD, I'll be a donor :) |
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| Dwiel |
Ill try to get a better picutre... I'm only putting the cards in my scanner, so thats why they are the way they are ;-)
The only thing I ruined, I believe, is the connection between the controller card and the flat cable. The connectors were accidentily removed by me while trying to get the flat cables out of them... I figured that Id be better off ruining the connectors and kinda saving the ffc then having both stuck to eachother...
The flat cable only got ripped on that one small spot which will need to connect to the controller board... all of the other connections comming out of it are pretty clean and look like they have been salvaged. The other end of the ffc that connects to the LCD board should be fine... I havnt done anything to it
Connection between ffc and LCD:
Oh, one other idea, what if I can find some kind of high temperature tape that repels solder and wont melt at high temps? then I can put tape over the other connections, solder the one I want, etc... this will sort of make it easier to keep the solder from bridging to other connections on the ffc and on the controller board. I might also try just soldering to other points on the board instead of the connections in that highly concentrated strip... just trace the paths to a point that will be easier to solder to.
what to you think?
ace: you understand where the problem is now?
hope this has cleared things up... |
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| CRISPdollaz |
I have an idea. From the looks of it, the wires in the ribbon cable are all running parallel. So just cut them both about 5 mm short, and then shave down the outer sheathing till you expose the edges of the wires.
Good Luck :cool: |
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| Dwiel |
Just thought Id ask one more time to see if anyone had recently cracked their NEC 1545v, or had done so earlier and just didnt see this post ;P...
Ive finally found some people who might be able to sell me what I need, but it looks like it will end up costing a little more than I origionally paid for the whole thing :(
Just going out for a second try
ANYONE.... PLEASE
thanks |
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| Dwiel |
Hey, ace, I was just wondering if you were still up for fixing this guy for me ;-P... I have exausted my connections and am really getting nowhere....
Thanks |
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| cruser |
hey Dwiel it may be a long shot but when i first go into this hobby
lifter had a 1545v that he melted the lcd maby he still has the controller |
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| ace3000_1 |
heya dweil sorry for not getting back to u sure but it will be a tricky one to fix, just out of couriosity where the conectors wer on the controller pcb how manny of those contacts are missing or ripped?
Trev |
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| Dwiel |
On cable:
18 ripped (4 that dont actually go anywhere)
the rest(20 one one side (2 dont go anywhere, 2 are merged... follow smae trace), about 30 unique on the other side) see pic.
on the board:
Side that corresponds to the ripped cable side, all connectors are in tact.
other side: 36 total: still in tact: 9
On the actual board, I doubt that you would want to solder to the actual place where the connector used to be. It would be easier to solder to other places on the board that they go to.... I think I might even be able to get that done. Maybe I could do that, and then you could solder to the cable? That way you dont spend so much time...
I really really appreciate the offer ace.
I am awaiting a reply from lifter. Thanks for the info! |
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| ace3000_1 |
no probs bud, those small traces once ripped are very hard to fix, u have to scrape the green stuff of before u can solder to them, if nothing was ripped it would be an easier fix put it that way lol, as for soldering to the cable thats another risk as it may melt, u will need a super fine soldering tip to solder to that and solder it in a second, if your going to solder in other places make sure its at its circuts end so u dont over drive anything and all will work.
Trev |
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| Dwiel |
| quote: | Originally posted by ace3000_1
if your going to solder in other places make sure its at its circuts end so u dont over drive anything and all will work.
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Could you expand on that abit? Do you just mean I should make sure I solder to the right place? |
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| ace3000_1 |
Yeah the closer to that sockets solder points the better cos in circuts like these u can get a smd cap that will filter power out of a line and yet let the signal flow through, some lines can be used to run power and a signal in them, and they normally use a cap to stop the power from going up the line where it shouldnt go, if u solder before the cap the power will go up that line and destroy somthing else, that was just an example but its in there, just make sure its as close to the circuts end as possible, make sure u look on the other side of the pcb to check too.
lets hope lifter still has his controller and u can get that one, im sure it will save the day lol
Trev |
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| Dwiel |
Ok, cool thanks.
I think I'll take it to school and see if I cant get it working over there... they ahve a real nice soldering iron.
Thanks! |
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| ace3000_1 |
| Yeah use me as a last resort, u will have a shipping cost and the risk of damage to the lcd otherwise and not only that i cant garentee u from my chair here that it will be 100% fixable, its on the border lines of being fixable and not fixable, just try not to cause any more damage to it lol. |
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| Dwiel |
Yeah, I'll definately try to fix it on my own first, then If I want you to try, I wont send the LCD... just the cable and the controller... the connector between the LCD and the cable is perfect.
I'll let you know how it goes.
I keep getting more and more optimistic ;-) |
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| hertzblaster |
| I messed-up my nec1550v lcd panel but the controller is intact. I just don't know if it is compatible with nec1545v. |
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| hertzblaster |
| If 1550v controller is compatible with 1545v, how much do you want to sell the lcd panel? |
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| Dwiel |
So, now I want you to sell me your controller and you want me to sell you my LCD... :-(.... I was thinking about selling everything anyway... Does your controller look anything like what I have posted? If they look the same, I assume they will work together...
Let me know... I can scan in the connector that is on the LCD (in tact) if you want to just see that... that is what will determine if they can even be conected let alone be electronically compatible. |
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| eleewhm |
your LCD connection looks like mine...dun tell me it is a LM150X05 panel
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| Dwiel |
My panel is a LM150X05.
actually it is a LM150X05 (A3) panel.
I cant wait to hear... what does this mean? |
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| Dwiel |
Just checked your history... looks like you are lookin for one...
Not the problem about who will sell the other his oh so very important part... arg... |
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| eleewhm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Dwiel
Just checked your history... looks like you are lookin for one...
Not the problem about who will sell the other his oh so very important part... arg... |
i did mange to find a replacment panel..but will cost me 200 USD from HongKong...
and it is a LM150X05 C3...they have the A2 series also |
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| Dwiel |
Which one do you need?
Would you like me to sell you mine?
We can also talk on MIRC @ dalnet room:diyvideo... will make things a little easier... |
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| eleewhm |
i am currently at work...no irc connection allowed...
how much you willing to sell?... |
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| Dwiel |
Hmmmmmmmmmm......
Some things I should note:- One bad pixel... dont remember exact replacement... was in the upper middle portion of screen... just made it onto a centered widescreen movie
- Some epoxy on the side piece... I put it there to make sure it wouldnt come loose... It definately will not move... might be a problem for your enclosure... I wasnt planning on breaking my controller when I came up with this idea, so wasnt really a consideration weather or not this would effect someone's enclosure...
- You are a fellow diymember not an ebayist....
- I will probobly not get as much for it from ebay as I would from you...
- if you dont buy it now, you can wait till it goes on ebay and get it for cheaper...
- ...
well.... I like to play the games when it comes to this stuff.... what would you think is reasonable? |
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| eleewhm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Dwiel
Hmmmmmmmmmm......
Some things I should note:- One bad pixel... dont remember exact replacement... was in the upper middle portion of screen... just made it onto a centered widescreen movie
- Some epoxy on the side piece... I put it there to make sure it wouldnt come loose... It definately will not move... might be a problem for your enclosure... I wasnt planning on breaking my controller when I came up with this idea, so wasnt really a consideration weather or not this would effect someone's enclosure...
- You are a fellow diymember not an ebayist....
- I will probobly not get as much for it from ebay as I would from you...
- if you dont buy it now, you can wait till it goes on ebay and get it for cheaper...
- ...
well.... I like to play the games when it comes to this stuff.... what would you think is reasonable? |
LOL...i like the way you put it....lets say a ball park sum of USD 125?.....exclude shipping to me..( by US post Airmail bubble packed and cardboarded to prevnet LCD breakage).....(i hope you have a paypal acc) ...i dun know if it sounds reasonable to use....cause the ones i getting from HK are new panels.........
:bawling: :bawling: |
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| Dwiel |
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
how much is shipping... thats kind of imporatant... just w/e shipping you'de be wanting + packaging from USA to singapore?
any estimates?
we'll go from there |
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| Dwiel |
Now that I am thinking about this... I'm wondering if you might be able to sell me your controller... how much would you want for it?
just let me know... I'm not sure if I would rather buy or sell yet, but I'd like to know what my options are
Dwiel |
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| eleewhm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Dwiel
Now that I am thinking about this... I'm wondering if you might be able to sell me your controller... how much would you want for it?
just let me know... I'm not sure if I would rather buy or sell yet, but I'd like to know what my options are
Dwiel |
keke...me not selling the controller....i mean let me know...whether you keen on selling your panel or not...email me at eleewhm@hotmail.com...once you decide...
USD125 is just for panel i am offering...shiiping you find out from US Postal Services using airmail how much would it be ..and i will pay for shippping........
let me know as i am thinking of getting the new panel from my source in Hong Kong |
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| eleewhm |
| still waiting for your panel to arrive |
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| Dwiel |
I have replied to you email sent directly to me. I did send it by air mail. Just to keep down the amount of work done, I'm just going to reply to your email with all of the information prooving I sen ***, if thats what you want, also prooving it was air mail...
Sorry if it hasnt arrived quickly, there is not much I can do :-(... shipping from US to Singapore is bound to take a while... |
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