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Insulating Pads. - Click HERE for Original Thread
castlesteve
Where can I purchase inslating pads for a pair of LM3875 T opamps in the US?
Thanks Steve.
Peter Daniel
If you don't mind cutting them out from TO-3 sized Silpads (and the size is big enough) I can send them to you for free;)
li_gangyi
Or you could get those BIG sheets from farnell or RS and cut them out...and make a hole in them...
castlesteve
Thanks Peter. I`ve just Emailed you with my mailing address etc. Thanks for the kind offer.
Steve.
jackinnj
scissors work fine -- I use TO-3 pads too -- but Peter, I think that your method of mounting the device with a bar, rather than one screw probably results in a much better thermal transfer function. (oh well, lucky me, I just tapped some aluminum heat sink stock for 4-40 screws).
li_gangyi
yeah...the bar helps dissapate heat from the "front" also...guess he could only do better if he potted the whole chip in some metal or something...
ronc
Never use pads, just a very very thin coating of thermal grease and a pressure bar. Of course the H/S is isolated from the cab, for both electrical and vibration control.
ron
li_gangyi
the pads are for isolation dude....
jackinnj
the TF version is insulated -- but you will note from the apnote that it requires a bigger heat sink
li_gangyi
Unfortunately...not everyone likes the insulated version...he just asked about pads and you are tell mi the non-isolated version doesn't need pads...the original poster might get a bit confused you know...
ronc
Heat transfer is better without the pads and as my H/S is a 3/4 Lb gold plated brass bar and electrically active it is isolated and is on a nylon suspension inside the cab.
ron
li_gangyi
hmmm...maybe you should try aluminium oxide as an insulator...seriously...I mean it's just crazy to use metal to insulate...
jackinnj
quote:
Originally posted by li_gangyi
Unfortunately...not everyone likes the insulated version...he just asked about pads and you are tell mi the non-isolated version doesn't need pads...the original poster might get a bit confused you know...
if you don't insulate, the heat sink is at V- so you need insulated spacers to mount the heat sink --

the thermal "cost" of insulation can be calculated explicitly, and is part of the three theta's. i don't see why it's a problem .
ronc
The gold plated brass bar is more than insulation its also the H/S.Heat transfer is greatest when you have 2 surfaces that are flat to each other( //) to within .0001". They then wring( believe thats how its spelled, its not ring) together (actually stick together without any grease).As all i use is the LM3875T version that means the bar is electrically active so i just isolate the bar.Worked very well so far with 12 different GCs.Of course i use a poly (looking at Cu though) pressure bar for clamping.
Both the block and the chip are surfaced on a granite inspection plate that is accurate to within .00001" using a plate polishing compound.
ron
li_gangyi
Yeah...good idea...but then again...if you go through so much...might as well just insulate the whole heasink and make sure it does not touch the chassis...or at least get the isolated version...

jackinnj:
I was saying that the ISOLATED version (TF) does NOT need an insulating pad...but the non-isolated version needs (T) guess must be different interpretations of my above posts...
ronc
Yea the gold plated brass bar is suspended by a poly plate and nylon bolts(brass on some config). It more or less just hangs from the roof of the cab.
ron

http://community.webtv.net/roncla/PressureLoadingBar

I am using my couch potato link as i am still trying to figure out windows 2000.
jackinnj
quote:
Originally posted by ron clarke
The gold plated brass bar is more than insulation its also the H/S.Heat transfer is greatest when you have 2 surfaces that are flat to each other( //) to within .0001". They then wring( believe thats how its spelled, its not ring) together (actually stick together without any grease).As all i use is the LM3875T version that means the bar is electrically active so i just isolate the bar.Worked very well so far with 12 different GCs.Of course i use a poly (looking at Cu though) pressure bar for clamping.
Both the block and the chip are surfaced on a granite inspection plate that is accurate to within .00001" using a plate polishing compound.
ron

In fact, the way "glues" work is to make the two surfaces absolutely smooth!
quekky
quote:
Originally posted by li_gangyi
hmmm...maybe you should try aluminium oxide as an insulator...seriously...I mean it's just crazy to use metal to insulate...
do you know where to get aluminium oxide pads in singapore? something like what peter daniel had last time
li_gangyi
I'm not so sure....I just use the isolated version on my GC...makes it all so easy...I guess you can try out RS...Farnell or SLT (Sim Lim Tower) have seen insulating stuff there...but not sure if they are Aluminium Oxide though...
UrSv
Digi-Key has silpads in the MultiWatt format which means LM38xx size.
li_gangyi
ermz...he wants Aluminium Oxide stuff...and there's no digikey in Singapore...sorry...
UrSv
quote:
Originally posted by li_gangyi
ermz...he wants Aluminium Oxide stuff...and there's no digikey in Singapore...sorry...

As far as I could tell neither the original question nor the second post by castlesteve, the thread starter, mentioned anything about Aluminum Oxide pads. I simply suggested Digi-Key as a supplier for Silpads of the correct size. On top of that I have no idea why a person in N. Virginia would turn to a Singapore source when he is in the U.S and what he wants is readily available.

Could be my mistake.
li_gangyi
sorry dude...I thought you were referring to quekky who wanted to know where to get aluminium oxide stuff in Singapore...as for the original poster..I think he got Peter to send him some..
mhelin
Is is OK to put two non-insulated chips on single HS which will be insulated from the chassis? I know the HS will be at V- but does it matter (will there be current between the two chips)?
rabstg
Hi All-

I recently priced the AAVID Thermolly insulator by the roll (50 ft.).

The 2 mil thick was $351.00 USD a roll!!!!

After to I recovered from my heat attack I politely said no thanks and am looking for another avenue.

I have not had any luck searching the Digi-Key site for "MultiWatt silipads" as UrSv mentioned.

Is there another name or title the pads could be listed under?
ofb
quote:
Originally posted by rabstg
I have not had any luck searching the Digi-Key site for "MultiWatt silipads" as UrSv mentioned.

um, try harder? ;)

i think the search term you want is sil-pad. or just use "pad" in their rather good search engine and whittle down from there.

i mean this most kindly of course. is the one you want in those results? digi has a lot of thermal pads.
rabstg
Hi-

I don't know you "ofb" so I will be polite here...

After searching multiple times I called Digi-Key and "Nick" the Tech support guy and Claudia the sales rep could not find ANY insulating pads on their site that were larger than TO-220.

The size needed is TO-220-11.


PS, if you call that a good search engine you haven't Googled...
ofb
quote:
I don't know you "ofb" so I will be polite here...

no reason not to be.

one thing the digi engine doesn't do is give a result page link, so try this, search with sil-pad, check off Items In Stock, then apply filter to-3. i get eight results. is there a reason you can't cut these down per peter's suggestion? or there something else in the way here?

and isn't to-220-11 the same width but slightly shorter than to-220? digi has a lot of pads for to-220 if that's right.
rabstg
TO-220-11 is the pin package, same height as the TO-220 but WIDER.

Sil-pad makes the Multiwatt pad (sufix -125) that is the correct size, but neither Digi-key nor Mouser carries it.

I have written them and requested the nearest distributor.

Cutting pads only works in small quantities and when done by competent people. To be included in a kit it needs to be the "right" part.

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