| Netlist |
Inspired by many people here and after reading an endless amount of posts in different AlephX threads I decided to brew something for my own.
And finally, here are the results:
From the start the idea was to give the amp a solid and industrial look.
With the black anodised heatsinks and the alu this was not a very difficult task. However, I tried to use the ‘metal’ colours as much as possible. I cut off the plastic from the small caps on the driver board, and maybe in time I’ll dismantle the big caps in the PSU also. Just for the look. I’m not sure if I can hear difference in sound, if any. :)
The cap-bank is placed on an alu plate, which is held in place with alu pipes and shiny bolts. The biggest nuts and bolts I could get at the local store were used for the feet. :cool:
The front and top have no cover, and I still can’t decide if I’ll ever make them. No children around, only the cat. Big problem for the blue LED. :D
There are still some resistor values to play with as you can see on the point to point board.
That board is entirely made p-to-p, with the wires as much as possible on the backside.
Its’ quite small, 10 X 8 cm (3,94 X 3,15 inch) and carries all of the components except the power transistors and surrounding components. No fancy stuff was used in the whole amp.
Guess I would have to order the black gates at Jean-Paul’s and the Vishay-Dales at Peter Daniel’s) :devily:
The output resistors (2 x 8 x 0.47ohm in parallel) are well tied together, and some people already asked me where the ignition is mounted. :clown:
I had (and still have) a problem with the power supply. The caps I bought are rated 25V. The power transformer is 22-0-22 and after the bridge and caps I get 28V under load. That’s why I had to mount two series resistors after the rectifier. They spoil a huge amount of heat and mounted together with the rectifier on the alu plate, it gets too hot.
Thanks to Grey and Nelson, Peter Daniel (inspired me the most with the mechanical building), and others, from which I learned a lot.
They will drive two B&W800Matrix, who are located in the huge living room of the old factory where we live. (Always liked old factories and industrial stuff).
/Hugo - Up to the bench for the making of BOAX… (Brother_Of_AlephX) |
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| moe29 |
Thanks for posting! Excellent PtoP wiring.
I was wondering if those were B&W 800's! Very nice
setup : ) The 800's don't have to be bi-amped?
sorry to hear about your power supply problem. I guess the only
thing you can do in the end is get a new transformer...
thanks for sharing!
it's nice ot see some AX's start to show up.
moe29 |
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| grataku |
Hugo,
looks very good. what was the story in the end with the measurements? Do you still hear the distortion? What do the rail end up to be after the resistors? What bias do they run? What mosfet did you use?
The only thing I would change is the placement of the voltage drop resistors from where they are to the base plate. That should increase the life span of the caps. |
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| Netlist |
I new you would reply as first!! :)
Those B&W's can even be tri-wired, altough they play very good with a single wire. I bi-wired them till now.
Yes, that power supply...maybe I sell those transformers, and bye other ones. The trouble is that these ones are 1000VA and the 18-0-18 I can bye are only 750VA.
Or I change the caps. Or find something else. Still don't know.
/Hugo |
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| Peter Daniel |
Now, you inspired me;) Very nice.
If you decide not to use front and top covers, you might install 2 square bars on top between heatsinks for more complete look and rigidity. |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | originally posted by grataku
The only thing I would change is the placement of the voltage drop resistors from where they are to the base plate. That should increase the life span of the caps. |
Another thing I would change is placement of the speakers!
They are far too near the wall on the side. You`ll get some early reflections which can spoil everything.
I understand that You might not have enough space for this but just for a try move them away from that wall - at least another half meter - more is better - I bet this will make a HUGE difference(towards positive). |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
Hugo,
looks very good. what was the story in the end with the measurements? Do you still hear the distortion? What do the rail end up to be after the resistors? What bias do they run? What mosfet did you use?
The only thing I would change is the placement of the voltage drop resistors from where they are to the base plate. That should increase the life span of the caps. |
Thanks Grataku
I still think there is space for improvements, playing with resistors. The distortion is nothing more than plain clipping. I cranked up the bias to a total of 7.5A and that's HOT!!!
The 0.5ohm resistors drop about 3.7V. That's more than 27W.
I'll have to get rid of them one way or another.
I'll definitely place them on the base plate later on, because the cap plate also cools the rectifier.
I now have +/-21 rail voltage.
A small calculation tells me that 21+3.7=24.7V. Safe enough for the caps, but in reality, without the resistors I end up with 28V no matter how high I set the bias. With the lowest possible bias the voltage climbs to 32V!
The mosfets are IRF9210 for the diff-pair, and IRFP240 for the power transistors. All others are BC550C. The current source is made with the TL431CLP.
Peter, that’s a good idea. We’ll see. The rigidity is surprisingly good for the moment. The whole amp is bolt together only with 24 M4 screws.
BTW, how could I possibly inspire you???
:blush:
/Hugo |
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| Bricolo |
are those feets copyrighted? :d
I never thought about using this as feets, the easyest solution is ever the last that comes to my mind... |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by cocolino
Another thing I would change is placement of the speakers!
|
Thanks, I noticed that in the past. The living room where they stand is very nice (thanks to my wife) but is in no way good for sound. There is a high ceiling that ends in a ^-shape (don't know the name of those ceilings). Besides that there is a big lamp (1m diameter) hanging between the speakers which has a dramatic influence on the sound. And last but not least, there's the WAF :)
| quote: | Originally posted by Bricolo
are those feets copyrighted? :d
I never thought about using this as feets, the easyest solution is ever the last that comes to my mind... |
They can be ordered in any amount. :D
Part of the 'industrial' look :)
/Hugo |
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| grataku |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Thanks Grataku
I still think there is space for improvements, playing with resistors. The distortion is nothing more than plain clipping. I cranked up the bias to a total of 7.5A and that's HOT!!!
The 0.5ohm resistors drop about 3.7V. That's more than 27W. |
I was using the same scheme to lower the voltage of my bench PS: 50 W ohmite resistors bolted on a plate of about the same size as your current one. I did measure some crazy temperatures like 150 C. At turn on they where making some metal sizzling noise.:bigeyes:
| quote: |
I'll have to get rid of them one way or another.
|
The easyest way out that I see, if you want to keep the transformers, is to go all out. Make each monoblock with 4 heatsinks and use the full voltage swing from the trafo, sell the caps and buy a new set with higher voltage. Basically, make it a fully fledged XA200. |
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| Bricolo |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
They can be ordered in any amount. :D
Part of the 'industrial' look :)
/Hugo |
OK, but before, to be sure they are good quality, I'll order you 4 free samples :D |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bricolo
OK, but before, to be sure they are good quality, I'll order you 4 free samples :D |
They will be available soon, via Karen from PassDiy :D
She knows how to take care of people who ask for "free samples". ;)
/Hugo |
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| Bricolo |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
They will be available soon, via Karen from PassDiy :D
She knows how to take care of people who ask for "free samples". ;)
/Hugo |
;) |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
The easyest way out that I see, if you want to keep the transformers, is to go all out. Make each monoblock with 4 heatsinks and use the full voltage swing from the trafo, sell the caps and buy a new set with higher voltage. Basically, make it a fully fledged XA200. |
Could you give me your bank account? :mafioso:
/Hugo |
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| Taco |
| Nice job! As Peter suggested, add the extra bar for extra strenght. The same feet I am using for my rack (tnt-flexy). |
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| Bernhard |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
maybe I sell those transformers, and bye other ones. The trouble is that these ones are 1000VA and the 18-0-18 I can bye are only 750VA.
Or I change the caps.
/Hugo |
Netlist,
looks very nice. :nod:
If you really want to sell the transformers one day, I might be interested. :devily:
I have two 18-0-18V with 110V primaries in series, that feed my high power monolytic susy amp, they give me something like 25,5V, but idle current is only 100mA.
They are 95mm in diameter and 55mmhigh and from that I think they are 600W each.
Nelson recommends 25V rails as a minimum.
So I believe, if you use 18V transformers together with fat idle currents, it will be lower...
20V would be good ? Difficult to buy :bawling:
You can find caps @ http://listings.ebay.de/aw/plisting...2069/index.html
What about the sound compared to the monolytic susy ?
You know, because of my quadruple amping I need 8 channels and can not afford the aleph(X) heat. :dead:
I also believe, You get double localisation because of a wall-mirrored sound :(
Also from the floor... :bigeyes:
| quote: | Originally posted by cocolino
Another thing I would change is placement of the speakers!
They are far too near the wall on the side. |
cocolino,
what would you suggest as a optimum ? As much as possible ? |
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| grataku |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Could you give me your bank account? :mafioso:
/Hugo |
If you give me your B&W... :D |
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| Netlist |
Bernhard,
Great offer, but I'm afraid those trannies will be too small.
As the amp consumes so much power, and I want to stay in the safe area...but Nelsons comment on this would be appreciated.
Thanks for the link; maybe I find other caps there. I never take decisions too fast, we will see.
About the sound:
I didn't have the time to connect them to my 'big' ones, but with the speakers I normally test and know very well, the sound is impressive. I never heard my speakers play like they play with the AlephX.
There is no way to compare the sound with the monolithic amp.
That doesn't mean I'm fully satisfied. I think there is still a lot to improve.
The bass is absolutely stunning. You know, I'm always careful with 'impressive' sound.
I guess I need more time to be able to say if I like it or not.
Last year October I was at a Hi-End show in the Netherlands.
The Philips guys gave a demo of their SACD with a 5.1 surround system.
They used all B&W Nautilus 800's and each speaker was powered with a Pass-amp (don't know which one). (Yes it was hot in there).
Now, this was not impressive, but breathtaking.
What do you mean about that wall-mirrored sound? Is it about my speakers to close to the wall?
/Hugo :) |
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| Bernhard |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
There is no way to compare the sound with the monolithic amp.
What do you mean about that wall-mirrored sound? Is it about my speakers to close to the wall?
/Hugo :) |
Does that mean, the Aleph-X are much/little/? better ?
Is it only the bass or also the mids / highs ?
If it is only the bass, maybe the damping is better because of the parallel output fets :confused:
Hey, if you like breathtaking, you could try building plasmas :devilr:
Yes, if you are too close to the wall you get a second mirrored-on-the-wall sound source which has little time delay to the speakers and might confuse imaging. :cannotbe: |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bernhard
Does that mean, the Aleph-X are much/little/? better ?
|
The AlephX should be much better IMHO.
The sound is not comparable with any amp I ever heard.
I repair lots of amps, the Crown K2 is one of my favourites on a big PA-system. (Not that I ever repaired a K2, I send them to the service centre when they come in)
But the sound of AlephX is warmer, balder, deeper then what I heard till now trough my speakers, which doesn't mean better. The bass is very much pronounced. That's why I can't tell you a lot about mid and high. Have to get used to it.
I ones had a Technics class A amp, a big one, who was also sounding extremely detailed and was till now the best consumer amp I heard.
Of course I still listen to the mono version and have a long way to go with listening sessions of AlepX.
A few "experts in sound" where invited in the past to listen to the B&W's in the living room. None of them was able to place the speakers in a good position and they all had their own theories. As I said, the room is nice, but not good for sound. Still, these speakers sound REEEAL good.
/Hugo |
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| Peter Daniel |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Still, these speakers sound REEEAL good.
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They look real good too, a perfect match for industrial amp. And all this in Belgium, a place where industrial music comes from;) |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | originally posted by Netlist
I had (and still have) a problem with the power supply. The caps I bought are rated 25V. The power transformer is 22-0-22 and after the bridge and caps I get 28V under load. That’s why I had to mount two series resistors after the rectifier. They spoil a huge amount of heat and mounted together with the rectifier on the alu plate, it gets too hot.
Yes, that power supply...maybe I sell those transformers, and bye other ones. The trouble is that these ones are 1000VA and the 18-0-18 I can bye are only 750VA.
Or I change the caps. Or find something else. Still don't know.
|
Why not buy 4 pieces 750VA trafos (2 each to replace one 1000VA) 0-18V and to use a double bridge rectifier (if You don`t have this anyway)?
And BTW: I might be interested in the caps when You decide to change them (depending of brand, type, value & last not least price) and maybe the trannies too:nod:
| quote: | originally posted by Bernhard
Nelson recommends 25V rails as a minimum.
So I believe, if you use 18V transformers together with fat idle currents, it will be lower...
20V would be good ? Difficult to buy :bawling: |
When You just need a different secundary voltage (and not a completly individual transformer design regarding core, size, power-rating etc.), for still reasonable money (estimated 10 to 15 Euro per transformer) You can often have transformers windings custom made - even when You need only a pair of them.
Just ask at the factory - You`ll be surprised what`s all possible.
| quote: | originally posted by Bernhard
cocolino,
what would you suggest as a optimum ? As much as possible ?
|
It`s very difficult to suggest an "optimum" without knowing more about that particular room. "As much as possible" is not very practical unless You prefer listening in the garden:). I guess something around 0,7m to 1,2m would do it in most cases and for most speaker (of course that`s only a very rough estimation - it all depends about the rest of the room, the absolute placement in the room, the speaker horizontal radiation pattern ....etc.).
I understand that WAF more often than not is the biggest obstacle here and it`s really a pity because this is what can make a big difference in performance - likely much bigger than changing from a good amp to "the best" ones.
WAF - or the prevention of really good audio |
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| Bernhard |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
The AlephX should be much better IMHO.
The sound is not comparable with any amp I ever heard.
But the sound of AlephX is warmer, balder, deeper then what I heard till now trough my speakers, which doesn't mean better. The bass is very much pronounced. That's why I can't tell you a lot about mid and high. Have to get used to it.
A few "experts in sound" where invited in the past to listen to the B&W's in the living room. None of them was able to place the speakers in a good position and they all had their own theories. As I said, the room is nice, but not good for sound. Still, these speakers sound REEEAL good.
/Hugo |
I don't know.
If the sound is warm, is it still neutral ?
Or is there something added ?
Bald floors and walls reflect higher frequencies,starting from 1 kHz like a mirror input angle is output angle.
Make a test.
Take a big large book with a shining paper envelope, hold it beside your head vertically and turn it on the y-axis.
In a 45° angle you can hear the high frequencies coming from your book :dead:
Or exchange the book for a mirror. When you can see the speakers in the mirror, it reflects the sound to your ears - exactly: to your eyes. :cannotbe:
You have hard direct reflections from the close floor and wall that disturb localisation. |
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| Netlist |
All those tips... I can't believe my eyes and ears. Thanks guys, I'll have a look at them tomorrow.
/Hugo - AUDIO - or the prevention of really good W(A)IF(E) :D |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | | AUDIO - or the prevention of really good W(A)IF(E):D |
If she can`t stand it, she can`t be really good:D |
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| karma |
| wow:bigeyes: nice detail in the construction;) |
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| MikeW |
| Maybe you could put a grill on it like the front of a truck, then it would really be industrial. I always liked wood. It gives it some warmth. Very nice amp. Good job.:cool: |
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| Netlist |
Hi,
Nice to know that a small country like Belgium is known for his music :cool:
We have French fries too, but that has been discussed earlier and in another thread.:clown:
I'm not in a hurry to change things right now, I mean the PSU, and a few other things have to be done, since building AlephX made a mess of my workplace. But I'll come back on this later.
About the speakers and their placement: They now stand about 0.8m from each wall, but there are 3.4m of space between them. (Always measured from cone centre.)
One would expect a 'hole' in the centre when listening. That is not the problem. The lack of bass when sitting in the sweet spot is the most annoying. When walking trough the room, the best place to hear the low frequencies is standing just near the sidewalls, but that’s far away from the sweet spot. Moving the speakers closer to each other doesn’t approve things for the low region.
As I said, it’s a strange room. Picture attached.
/Hugo - She can stand it and she's really good. OOhh Yes.;) |
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| Bernhard |
Netlist,
it looks like your bass is pronounced more by standing waves and wall-near-speaker-positioning than by the Aleph-X :att'n: |
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| Netlist |
I didn’t express myself clear enough.
The AlephX never played with the B&W800's.
When I talk about the sound of the living room, I talk in general, with different amps, but not with AlephX. Soon they will be connected to the AlephX.
For the moment the AlephX is driving B&W802’s in the workplace.
I know very well how the 802's sound with all kind of amps, but as I recall, I never heard the sound they produce now, with the AlephX.
/Hugo :) |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | originally posted by Netlist
About the speakers and their placement: They now stand about 0.8m from each wall, but there are 3.4m of space between them. (Always measured from cone centre.)
One would expect a 'hole' in the centre when listening. That is not the problem. The lack of bass when sitting in the sweet spot is the most annoying. When walking trough the room, the best place to hear the low frequencies is standing just near the sidewalls, but that’s far away from the sweet spot. Moving the speakers closer to each other doesn’t approve things for the low region.
As I said, it’s a strange room. Picture attached.
|
Hugo,
that`s a huuuuuge room!
Unfortunately the proportions are indeed very strange and not very good for audio.
Once I have heard a really expensive High-End setup (in those days) with Backes&Müller (not my favourites) activ speakers in a very similar sized room and placement and it was just bad because the room acoustics spoiled everything.
Attached a picture (correct proportions - more or less) of how I would try to place them (or to begin with).
The location where the speakers are at the moment are highly unsuitable regarding three things:
- the very early reflections from the very nearby located walls
- standing waves along the long side (14m) of the room
- when I assume You sit around 3m away from the speakers in the sweetspot You`re more or less in the center of the room - no wonder that the bass is lacking there. Moving speakers more closely together can not cure this.
I fear that without a radically different placement there is not much hope to better things substantially.
I believe that it`s hardly possible to go around the standing wave thing entirely but with the proposed placement (or something similar) I bet things overall will much better already and You`d have more choice to try different locations along the long side of the room.
I don`t know if WAF or other matters of somewhat less importance (furniture for instance) ;) ;) would allow a permanent placement similar to the suggested - but just give it a try - takes half an hour and You know more.
| quote: | | She can stand it and she's really good. OOhh Yes.;) |
You lucky guy:) |
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| grataku |
Cocco,
since you are redocorating, how about this?
The question is: would a different pair of speakers that could be positioned more correctly in the room sound BETTER than a badly positioned pair of 800's?
PS. If you ever watched the american football commentators you'll know why this is funny. ;) |
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| Netlist |
Nice comments and ideas.
First, these monsters way over 150kg (300 pounds), so walking around with them is not the easiest task. (certainly more than half an hour) :)
Second, the proposed place by cocolino could be an option but they then stand on a wooden floor with a cavern underneath which again wouldn’t be to good for resonance. But, it could be worth trying.
An ultracurve is proposed too, but as I say moving them around is not easy.
So, the width of the room is 5m. Lets suppose we place the speakers as proposed. They should be at least 0.5m from the wall, I assume. The speakers themselves are 0.6m deep. That’s already 1.1m.
We then have 3.9m left. Counting the seat where we listen another 0.6-0.9m we would have the sweet spot in the perfect place. Hmmm…something to consider.
/Hugo – will call grataku to redecorate :clown: |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | Cocco,
since you are redocorating, how about this? |
Hi grataku,
Hey..... that`s just great ...actually much better than my suggestion! :nod:
How comes that I have not thought about this!?
Hugo, what do You think about this slight modification?
I believe WAF will be delighted!!!
| quote: | | The question is: would a different pair of speakers that could be positioned more correctly in the room sound BETTER than a badly positioned pair of 800's? |
I´m convinced that a decent $2000 speaker but well placed in an optimized room beats any bad placed super-duper-ultra 20k$ speaker in a really bad room by far.
I have heard it and I have heard this 800`s in an unsuitable room at a Hifi-Show - I left the room after 3 minutes.... and in another listened & enjoyed a small 2-way system (Sonus-Faber) more than half an hour!
And no, I have no clue from American football and neither know what`s "redocorating"? :confused:
| quote: | | First, these monsters way over 150kg (300 pounds), so walking around with them is not the easiest task. (certainly more than half an hour) |
I know, but that`s not such a big problem when the floor is even (otherwise I admit You have a problem) - use a (worn! otherwise W(AF) again...You know...) towel and put it under the speaker - You should be able to pull them (maybe with some assistance of WAF pushing) - that`s the way I move my 150kg sub - works fine (I can move it even alone this way).
| quote: | | Second, the proposed place by cocolino could be an option but they then stand on a wooden floor with a cavern underneath which again wouldn’t be to good for resonance. But, it could be worth trying. |
Well, wooden floor might bring problems but probably another placement cures more that the wooden floor can harm.
Moreover should this placement turn out to be really better and they can stay there, another slight modifcation can help here.
Easiest way is some kind of decoupling through soft materials or more extensive as they are not too far from the wall now (I guess 1,1m baffle to wall in the back is fine) some kind of steel construction anchored in the back wall on which they can stand. Or hang them from the ceiling. Just some first ideas:)
| quote: | So, the width of the room is 5m. Lets suppose we place the speakers as proposed. They should be at least 0.5m from the wall, I assume. The speakers themselves are 0.6m deep. That’s already 1.1m.
We then have 3.9m left. Counting the seat where we listen another 0.6-0.9m we would have the sweet spot in the perfect place. Hmmm…something to consider. |
One thing is for sure - You get rid of the early reflections this way.
And as You don`t sit in the middle of the room anymore but with the wall in the back, bass should be better too.
As the wall behind You (listening position) would be a little near now (inevitable in this case - but ...:note:You can`t always get want You want:note: ) , also something absorbing on the wall behind You may help to avoid reflections from there (You could first experiment with a blanket or something the like).
Next step could be experimenting with some absorbers to fight standing waves if they still are a problem.........but hey that`s an Aleph-X thread .... we are in the wrong department ;)
Anyway, when You actually try this be prepared that Your system will sound so completly different from what You`re used to that it may take a while until You can judge if this is actually better or not. |
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| Bernhard |
My room also is 5m in the short direction, and my speakers are placed 1m from the long wall, 2,50m to me and I am 1,50m from the wall behind me.
I sit in the middle of standing waves @160-180Hz, sounds terrible hollow.
God bless Ultracurve with digital input option :goodbad: |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by cocolino
Hi grataku,
Hey..... that`s just great ...actually much better than my suggestion! :nod:
How comes that I have not thought about this!?
Hugo, what do You think about this slight modification?
I believe WAF will be delighted!!!
|
Euhh...I'm not sure I understand this...bit simple minded sometimes. :cannotbe:
Are you guys talking about rebuilding the house at twice the size???:clown:
Maybe its because I never watched the american football commentators :devily:
Ok, ok, next time I have a few hours of spare time, I'll try the proposed setup. A towel will not be enough, I'll have to lift those guys 0.5m high because the wooden floor is higher than the normal level of the house, remove them spikes and so on...
/Hugo - just noticed a big, big window behind the listening seat... :) |
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| cocolino |
| quote: | | A towel will not be enough, I'll have to lift those guys 0.5m high because the wooden floor is higher than the normal level of the house, remove them spikes and so on... |
:dead:
| quote: | | /Hugo - just noticed a big, big window behind the listening seat... :) |
cocolino - sees Hugo looking outside the window and enjoying the view.... while listening music.............:nod: |
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| jh6you |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
There is no way to compare the sound with the monolithic amp.
|
First of all, congratulation on the industrial AX high power version. It looks nice together with the industrial speakers.
By the way, which monolithic susy amp are you referring to?
I believe that you have well experienced ears. How are the sounds different "specifically?"
JH |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by jh6you
First of all, congratulation on the industrial AX high power version. It looks nice together with the industrial speakers.
By the way, which monolithic susy amp are you referring to?
I believe that you have well experienced ears. How are the sounds different "specifically?"
JH |
Thanks JH,
When talking about the monolithic amp I refer to
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...3484#post153484
The dynamics are much better than with any amp I heard. I had a spare moment to listen to Tori Amos again this afternoon, and for the first time I could clearly hear that there was a lot of noise in the recording. Maybe it is the Leslie again in the beginning of the first track of StrangeLittleGirls.
Nora Jones absolutely shines. On 'Come Away With Me' here beautiful voice with sober instrumentation really took me away.
She was just here standing next to me whispering…and this is only MP3 and a AlephX monoblock. I promise everyone here and now to buy the album. :nod:
Whooo, I'm getting poetic here.
The mad drums and bass on Ben Harper's ‘Glory & Consequence’
for the first time reveal the real potentials of the 802's.
In 'I shall Not Walk Alone' from the same album, we sit alone with Ben around the fire together with the straight in your face, very detailed guitar and background violin. Stunning...
On 'With God On Our Side' from The Neville Brothers I can hear Aaron Neville's tong turn in his month.
Too bad my ears were better 20 years ago.
/Hugo – went too much to too loud concerts in the past… |
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| Bernhard |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
The dynamics are much better than with any amp I heard. I had a spare moment to listen to Tori Amos again this afternoon, and for the first time I could clearly hear that there was a lot of noise in the recording. Maybe it is the Leslie again in the beginning of the first track of StrangeLittleGirls.
|
Netlist,
sometimes its hard to understand what you are talking about.
Aleph-X or monosusy ? |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bernhard
Aleph-X or monosusy ? |
Poetics are from AlephX. :)
/Hugo |
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| jh6you |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Nora Jones absolutely shines. |
Hi Hugo
Norah Jones, come away with me.
For me, she sings the songs with her voice resembling in between Rickie Lee Jones and Carole King, and little bit through the nose. The CD sounds like an unplugged record. I wonder if the songs are Jazz, Country, Folk or all mixed up. I feel that she has her weak "own character." Yeah, anyhow, the songs are well matching for the light drinks in the lounge with some friends, and the violin cries as if to describe liquid eyes of the girl singing I've Got to See You Again. Not only this, but my Monolithic SuSy amp also does not miss the musical energy of Nickelback Siver side up.
I agree that Class A amps in general give us better sounds than Class A/B or B amps. Nevertheless, I am building two more ships, Monolithic SuSy, to complete total 6 channels.
JH
Wish you to fill up the whole space successfully. ;) |
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| Samuel Jayaraj |
Netlist,
Could you please post the schematic you used or atleast point to the location where it is available. I am about to start building an Aleph-X and am interested in the TL431CLP as the current sourcel; it should certainly have a lot lesser noise than a zener/ mosfet combination current source. Thanks. |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Samuel Jayaraj
Netlist,
Could you please post the schematic you used or atleast point to the location where it is available. |
Hi, Sam
Thanks for your interest
The TL431 schematic I used is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...=&threadid=9635
The rest of the amp is Grey's schematic: Except with 16 instead of 4 output devices, 0.47ohm source resistors, 220k feedback.
/Hugo |
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| Netlist |
Still fine-tuning that nice amp, I noticed a quite annoying 100Hz hum at the output.
When measuring the absolute AC voltage, that is from OUT+ to ground and from OUT- to ground, the OUT+ side gives about 28mVAC and the OUT- about 2mVAC.
This results in about 30mVAC differential AC at 100Hz.
Because its 100Hz I assume it comes from the power supply.
The only thing I can't understand is the difference at both sides of the amp.
I still use it single ended. Even with input shorted the hum doesn't change.
The ripple of the power supply is 250mV, which is not that bad.
Still a little bit more than 10% is present at the OUT+
Anyone had the same experience or can someone give me a hint?
/Hugo :scratch: |
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| Peter Daniel |
I also have some hum and noticed that matching input coupling caps is one way to slightly lower it, but it doesn't go completely.
The other thing I noticed that right after start the hum is not present and it comes only after a second or two. Since I'm using thermistors, I believe it happens after they warm up and resistance drops, so less filtering is provided. I'm using the same grounding scheme as I had in A75 (which was modified into Aleph X) so I don't suspect grounding problems to create hum. It's probably not enough filtering. If I remeber correctly, I'm using 100,000u per channel. |
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| nar |
Hi ,
On my Aleph X prototype I can hear almost no hum close to the speaker.Ear on it . Speaker efficiency is 96 dB/W.
The proto runs at 22.6 V actually , at 4.25 A total bias .
I have 2 toroids each 2 X 20 V 500 VA , 2 rectifier bridges , then parallel . Filtering is only 8 X 22.000 uF.arranged in a symetric C-R-C with 3.9 ohms 17W 4 resistors wired in parallel for each rail .
I have differential DC at about 40 mV stays still.
On turn on absolute DC is 2-3 V and goes down to +/- 120 mV after warm up,and moves a little up and down .
The resistors go hot but within limits.I would say 70 degrees,as they are cement 17 W types I don't bother.
Please e-mail me for details if needed.
Regards
Anael
PS no earth connection at ground.Currently made on the other block,left channel , an Aleph 4 ;)
Sound is different but same family ,so I have to go on working... :nod: :devily: |
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| Netlist |
Peter,
With input coupling caps bypassed, the hum increases from 30 to 33mV. So, indeed that's correct.
I tried all different grounding schemes without any improvement so this will not be the cause as well.
I currently use 272.000uF and guess that must be enough.
Did you ever measure (or could you do it in time) the difference in hum between both halves of the amp?
This is the most mysterious part. Like I said, one halve is almost perfect, the other one produces the hum.
I also noticed the hum increases with higher bias and vice versa.
Nar, could you also try to measure the difference in hum on both halves?
Must be in the very low mV range if you can't hear it.
/Hugo |
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| Netlist |
I found a bad soldering on my driver board, which caused the 28mV hum on one side. :)
Now, the hum on both halves is reduced to 9.5mV, which is still audible but much better.
Now if I could reduce that 9.5mV to almost zero, this would make the best sounding amp I ever heard. :nod:
I'm absolutely impressed with the sound!!!
/Hugo ;) |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
I found a bad soldering on my driver board, which caused the 28mV hum on one side. :)
Now, the hum on both halves is reduced to 9.5mV, which is still audible but much better.
Now if I could reduce that 9.5mV to almost zero, this would make the best sounding amp I ever heard. :nod:
I'm absolutely impressed with the sound!!!
/Hugo ;) |
Do you measure with shorted input or with a open one? Do you use single ended or balanced? You did use input caps didn't you? So when you short, you short the single ended tulip plug with the caps in place?
When you explain me your procedure I can measure the same on my channels!
Edwin |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Edwin Dorre
Do you measure with shorted input or with a open one? Do you use single ended or balanced? You did use input caps didn't you? So when you short, you short the single ended tulip plug with the caps in place?
When you explain me your procedure I can measure the same on my channels!
Edwin |
I just did a quick measurement. Single ended, with 2x 2.2uf caps and connected to my Live! card of my PC with no sound (so not shorted) I measure about on both OUT+ and OUT- about 3mV . I hear no hum whatsoever only hiss noise coming out of the SBLive! card...
Edwin |
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| Cobra2 |
-dont you wonder?
-When the amp seem to have a PSRR = 0 ?
-When you need more trafo, caps & inductors than you can fit in
any pre-made chassi ? :scratch:
Arne K |
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| nar |
Netlist,
Congratulations ! Seems you are now close to perfection,with so little hum on the speakers.
One way to improve it would maybe to throw away some ripple.As you have much capacitors you can probably try it.
Just add Rs into a CRCRCRC configuration,to have a multiple hum-killing effect.Just use ohm law to calculate the voltage drops and power requirements for the resistors.At least,if you have 3-4 V reserve to divide in 3 to give you voltage drops against bias current,that maybe works.I don't know,just try it.
One other thing to get lowest output noise with the Aleph X is certainly to drive it BALANCED.With unbalanced operation the amp works , but not with lowest noise level possible.
In case you drive it UNBALANCED,shorting the - input to ground at the input of the amp may not be the best solution.
If you know precisely the output impedance of your pre-amp,then you can
Use a XLR 3 for the input of the amp.
Use 3 wire balanced cable to plug it in.3 terminations at this end + - ground.
At the other end of the cable ( i.e. your pre output!) use a RCA,and + goes to hot , ground to cold and - is wired to ground through appropriate resistor ( i.e. same value as your preamp's output impedance)
That way using passive balanced connection might improve hum on your Aleph -X .I don't know.Give it a try !!! That might work better than only shorting - in of the amp to ground :nod:
Try it and let me know how it works .
Regards
Anael |
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| Netlist |
Edwin,
Whether I short the inputs or not, the hum stays the same. Because it's 100Hz it comes from the PSU, so IMO it has nothing to do with grounds or inputs.
I'm getting more and more convinced that the CRCRC option could bring the solution. As I only have four caps of 68.000µF it will be CRC. Maybe a CLC would be better (and more expensive) then.
Arne, I'm not sure what you want to say. :scratch:
Nar, I will study your recommendations and let you know. ;)
/Hugo |
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| Cobra2 |
But I have a pair A-X boards finished, and just wonder if it's worth buying a caps, ribs/chassi + super-large trafo, that hardly can be used for anything else? ( In case I do not like the result / endless hum-problems...).
Well, I could probably use the trafo for a 10+ channel GainClone if it does not work out.....
(Damn 24% import tax + handeling fees make the missing parts so expensive, that they has to be put on use, one way or another).
Arne K |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Edwin,
Whether I short the inputs or not, the hum stays the same. Because it's 100Hz it comes from the PSU, so IMO it has nothing to do with grounds or inputs.
I'm getting more and more convinced that the CRCRC option could bring the solution. As I only have four caps of 68.000µF it will be CRC. Maybe a CLC would be better (and more expensive) then.
/Hugo |
I am running CRCRC with 22000uf for each C and 0.11 ohm 20W for each R . I have a ripple measured on a scope of about 0.5V on full load (24.8V-0-24.8V).
Edwin |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Cobra2
But I have a pair A-X boards finished, and just wonder if it's worth buying a caps, ribs/chassi + super-large trafo, that hardly can be used for anything else? ( In case I do not like the result / endless hum-problems...).
Well, I could probably use the trafo for a 10+ channel GainClone if it does not work out.....
(Damn 24% import tax + handeling fees make the missing parts so expensive, that they has to be put on use, one way or another).
Arne K |
Just for the record... I hear NO HUM whatsoever... If you do not short any wire, just let them hang around, you can hear a very very very small 50hz on a 95db speaker... When you connect to something or short the thing it is dead silent, no hiss, no hum, nothing!
Edwin |
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| SisterOfMercy |
In my opinion it's better to use a capacitor with a lower capacitance with a higher ESR, ripple current, lower internal impedance. (they all depend on each other).
If you look at the datasheets of the 363 and the 360, you'll see that at 40 Volts (which you'll probably need), the 363 has @ 150000 uF an Ir (100Hz) of 20 Amperes. The 360 only goes to about 68000 uF with the same case size. Here the Ir at 100 Hz is 30 Amperes.
Even for a lower capacity with the 360's the ripple current is higher, the ESR is lower, and the internal impedance is also lower.
And yes, they would probably be much more expensive. I don't know if it's worth it, but if you really want a low impedance of your power supply, that's one way to do it..
Also, about your speaker setup. You might want to try to suspend some damping material (pritex) from the ceiling on a few wires. If you care more about looks, you can also try a curtain or something like that. I have troubles with reflections (if you clap your hands, you'll hear it echo), and with the pritex plates in place it's gone. |
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| Edwin Dorre |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Netlist
[B]Hi you cap engineers :D
I decided to change the caps in my AlephX because their max voltage is 25V and that's not high enough.
The actual caps are: EEGBA1E683FE :[QUOTE]
I use 6 times 22000uf 63V BC Components type 154 elco's per channel. In a CRCRC with each R=0.11 ohm 20W (4 per channel) . This gives a ripple of total overall top-to-top 0.5V on 25V-0-25V with about 400W load.
This is enough for a dead silent no hiss no humm power supply on my 92db/W/m Nautilus 802's.
Perhaps you can compare specs of the caps:
http://www.bccomponents.com/Uploads...eets/154pec.pdf
Edwin |
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| grataku |
Netlist and/or Edwin
did you guys look at the output of the amp using a scope? If so how does the waveform look in proximity to clipping at say 10 kHz looks vs. at 1 kHz? |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
Netlist and/or Edwin
did you guys look at the output of the amp using a scope? If so how does the waveform look in proximity to clipping at say 10 kHz looks vs. at 1 kHz? |
As I remember; I looked with my old 20Mhz scope (Hameg) from 1hz to 200Khz from sine waves to square waves from low to full power and all looked about the same to me. They even clipped the same regardless of the frequency ;) The only difference was in amount of power and the loss of dB because of the higher frequency. All into 4 ohm and 8 ohm power resistors.
When using a square waves the rising and lowering times of the squares looked the same at 1khz 10Khz and 100Khz... I use 10pF instead of the 5pF. With 5pF I got overshoot on the square wave.
Edwin |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Edwin Dorre
I use 6 times 22000uf 63V BC Components type 154 elco's per channel. In a CRCRC with each R=0.11 ohm 20W (4 per channel) . |
Thanks Edwin, I just ordered 12 X 47.000µF 40V 154 types from BC.
Together with 8 X 0.1ohm 25W resistors.
I took the 47.000 because they have the best Farad/money value.
I'll keep you informed.
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
Netlist and/or Edwin
did you guys look at the output of the amp using a scope? If so how does the waveform look in proximity to clipping at say 10 kHz looks vs. at 1 kHz? |
Grataku, what waves would you like? Squarewave to see the pattern, or sinewave to see the clipping? Or both?
/Hugo - will take some pictures. :) |
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| Netlist |
Took some "unpolished" pictures.
Some of them look quite frightening and maybe some improvements could be done to the amp.
All squarewaveshots taken just before clipping.
Upper wave= input
lower wave = output
first pic: 1Khz load 4ohm. |
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| Netlist |
| Clipped sinewave 1Khz 4ohm |
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| Netlist |
Square 1Khz 8ohm and square 10Khz 8ohm are almost identical to the 4ohm squarewaves.
Here's the 1Khz 8ohm clipping sinewave. This one differs from the 4ohm version.
I also took 100Khz pics but they are too horrible to publish :D
/Hugo :) |
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| Netlist |
Oh, I forgot, these are my caps across the feedback R's.
No idea if its 5,10 or 20pF.
BTW, Grataku, did you get my mail a few days ago?
I send mail to a few people but no one answered, so I assume the board's mail system doesn't work.
/Hugo |
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| weeghel |
Netlist: How would you qualify these results? Are you happy with them, or do you think that the performance needs improvement?
Also: I sent you a message through the forum yesterday, did you receive that?
Amp looks cool though :cool: |
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| grataku |
Hugo,
I don't recall getting any emails from you, is it something we can discuss here or do you want to try again? ;)
Thanks for taking the time with the pictures and all, it's very helpful.
The reason why I asked about the waveforms is because of the strange clipping with sharp 'features' I am seeing at and above ~10kHz/8ohms.
At 1 kHz I would say my sinusoid looks a little bit cleaner than yours. But in general it's pretty much the same. It basically looks like the little singularity you see on your top wave at the right edge where the flat edge meets the sine waveform.
Could this be a characteristic that is intrisec of two stage designs where the distortion increases enormously close to clipping? I don't know I am asking.
One piece of good news I can give you is that the clipping I see in your 1 khz/8ohms sinewave could be made alot more symmetrical and the distortion in the bottom half could be substantially reduced by putting pots in place of the sensing reistor like edwin did and adjusting away. I did the experiment. Maybe I am too optimistic. ;)
If I can make another observation, the square wave could improved by adding an additional 5pf in the feedback, that should kill the ring down you are seeing.
When the board was made we should have probably built in the feedback caps as traces, that way, symmetry in the phase behavior of the feedback would have been closer, we didn't know enough at the time and chad and I where too eager to print out those 800 boards. I did make my feedback network using a pair of 5pf silvermica per side and I did match them up. |
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| wessol |
The little AX I built is running around 12V Rails,
Measured 17-watt at zero clipping.
Saw a slight overshoot at 10Hz on the square wave.
Distortion measured around .1%,
I finally worked out my hum issues.
I am running sepeate power supplies for each channel,
CrCrC 110,000uF for the C's and .1-ohm for the r's
It turns out most of my hum issues where grounding related.
I started off having both power supplies connected to a common ground which was connected to the earth ground.
Turned the amp on and instant hum.
Disconnected the earth ground, the hum is still there.
Next I decied to keep the two power supplies grounds isolated from each other with no earth ground.
Turned the amp on with no input connections and all is quiet.
Make the unbal input connections, the hum is back.
Soon it dawns on me that the grounds have their ground loop path back via the RCA connectors and the metal chassis.
I found some insulated RCA connectors to keep the grounds isolated and all is well, no hum.
I currently have my Sutherland 12dAX7 preamp feeding the little AX in my office and it never sounded better.
Thank you all |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
10Khz 4ohm |
Hi,
try to raise the capacitor to 10pF ! You can do this by putting two of your 'old' capacitor in parallel. So if you have them flying around it is worth a try. Your square wave will clean up with this higher value! No ringing whatsoever ...
Edwin |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by SisterOfMercy
And yes, they would probably be much more expensive. I don't know if it's worth it, but if you really want a low impedance of your power supply, that's one way to do it..
|
Somehow I missed this post. I can’t recall seeing it yesterday.
Thanks Sister, I came to the same conclusion but the price of those 114,115 is a bit excessive.
As Edwin stated, his PSU is dead silent with the 154-series, so I’ll give it a try.
The difference in price is € 224 for 2 amps!!
| quote: | Originally posted by weeghel
Netlist: How would you qualify these results?
Also: I sent you a message through the forum yesterday, did you receive that?
|
The squarewave in the 10Khz and up region can be better and I will work on that. Nevertheless, the amp sounds great.
I replied to your mail. Basically, a schematic will be posted as soon as I am completely satisfied with all resistor and other values.
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
Hugo,
I don't recall getting any emails from you, is it something we can discuss here or do you want to try again? ;)
The reason why I asked about the waveforms is because of the strange clipping with sharp 'features' I am seeing at and above ~10kHz/8ohms.
|
Well, we must conclude the email system doesn’t work.
Anyway, it was about the cheaper IRF’s at RS-components.
Mail me.
As stated above, the ringing will be improved. I will play with different values of ‘real’ capacitors. I would love to do it without cap. I remember a post from Nelson saying something about removing the caps in the XA200. How does he get a clean square without cap? Or would there be other tricks?
The active part of the CS is now set at +/-55%. I’ll try different values for that as well.
But first of all, the PSU will be rebuild. (maybe today or tomorrow)
Thanks to you all for the help.
/Hugo :) |
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| panos29 |
Dear Netlist,
I am really happy that somebody took the time to measure the aleph-x as some time I did but the responce was minimal. However, I would like to ask at what power output levels did you take the measurements you post, and upon what kind of load(inductive, resistive, mixed etc)? Did you tried loading the output with 1-2uf?
What is peculiar is that I faced the similar problematic and discouraging measurements with my aleph and I really could not digest these, so I after much search I gave up and postponed the construction of my aleph-x, although I have all the parts in hand. my measurements |
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| SisterOfMercy |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Somehow I missed this post. I can’t recall seeing it yesterday.
Thanks Sister, I came to the same conclusion but the price of those 114,115 is a bit excessive.
As Edwin stated, his PSU is dead silent with the 154-series, so I’ll give it a try.
The difference in price is € 224 for 2 amps!! |
I'm a fairly new member, and am still under moderation (maybe not anymore with this post). So it showed up a little later..
I know the price difference can be quite large. The speakers I am currently building (2.5 way) have a crossover that costs in components 150 euro per piece. I could stick lesser quality components in, but I am a whiner who always whines about high quality..
blah blah blah... |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by panos29
Dear Netlist,
I am really happy that somebody took the time to measure the aleph-x as some time I did but the responce was minimal. However, I would like to ask at what power output levels did you take the measurements you post, and upon what kind of load(inductive, resistive, mixed etc)? Did you tried loading the output with 1-2uf?
[/URL] |
Don’t be disappointed about the response, this happens to anyone now and then.
I did have a look at your results and part of the answer is probably given here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...872#post179872.
The measurements were done with a resistive load, but I’ll try to add some capacitance.
Don’t you think 1-2uF is a bit much?
Some recent experiments learned that adjusting the bias to a certain point is quite important.( in my amp)
Here’s what I did:
I connected a sinewave 1Khz. Because my amp is not clipping symmetrically, the upper part of the waves clips sooner than the lower part, I increased the power till the lower part was just not clipping. Of course the upper part was already flat.
Then I started trimming the bias on both sides till both halves didn’t clip anymore.
The funny part is that there is only one point were the bias is optimal. Increasing it results again in clipping on the upper part. Also the lower part can be pushed much further without showing a flat clip line. It rather shows distortion, but clips much later, no matter what bias point I set.
It’s quite a hassle to remount a pot in place of the active current source regulator but it will have to be done.
All this is said by Grataku in earlier posts, but sometimes it takes a long time and much reading to fully understand what really happens in practice. ;)
Measuring the power just before clipping gives 30.6Vac RMS with an 8ohm resistive (16 X 8R2 50W wirewounds in series-parallell) load: 117WRMS. It could be a bit inductive after all. :D
Hugo – back to the bench… |
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| Netlist |
Just to let you now...in case you get bored.
The battery has arrived ;)
/Hugo |
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| grataku |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
Just to let you now...in case you get bored.
The battery has arrived ;)
/Hugo |
How about the thermistors to go with those? ;)
What's the plan, 6/channel? |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by grataku
How about the thermistors to go with those? ;)
What's the plan, 6/channel? |
This is what I'm brewing for the moment.
Correct me if you see mistakes.
/Hugo |
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| Edwin Dorre |
| quote: | Originally posted by Netlist
This is what I'm brewing for the moment.
Correct me if you see mistakes.
/Hugo |
looks great to me.... :) |
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| Netlist |
| quote: | Originally posted by Peter Daniel
I noticed that Madrigal is using similar caps in their most recent amps.
|
Can’t be bad then. Those amps look awesome. Can’t get enough of the pictures…:)| quote: | Originally posted by Edwin Dorre
looks great to me.... :) |
Well then, the new PSU is up and working.
The hum is (almost) completely gone. When listening very close to the speaker, I can hear a very tiny amount of hum.
Measurements reveal 1.8mV AC. I definitely can live with this.
The voltage is now +/-30V. The AC meters on the variac show 1.9A on 227V.
Thanks again guys. :)
/Hugo |
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| Peter Daniel |
So increasing capacitance eliminated hum?
Do you hear any difference in sound with new electrolytics? |
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| Netlist |
Peter
Before there were 4 caps, each 68.000µF. Total: 272.000µF
Now I have 6, each 47.000µF. Total 282.000µF
Making it a CRCRC filter does the main improvement.
The R's do the trick I believe.
Over the first caps I measure 355mV AC.
The second shows 81mV AC and the third 25mV AC. This results in 1.8mV differential AC at the outputs.
The sound, to me, is the same as before. There's no way to go back to the old setup to do an A/B test.
/Hugo |
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| roddyama |
| Sorry Hugo for butting in, but I had to ask what the rows of metal pegs were sticking out of the PSU board in the Levenson amp?:confused: |
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| roddyama |
| Got it. Thanks Peter. |
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| Netlist |
In time I received some request by mail to post a schematic of my amp.
I’m pretty well satisfied now with the trimming results so here we go.
Anyone, feel free to add more reply or recommendations.
The power supply schematic is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...4297#post194297
Thanks again to all for the large interest and great amount of tips all over the place.
/Hugo :) |
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| Netlist |
Here's another picture of the PtoP wiring of the second amplifier's
Powerfets.
I did the wiring with solid copper, which looks neater. |
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| Netlist |
And here a picture of the new setup and wiring of the PSU.
/Hugo :) |
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| moe29 |
How difficult is it to solder onto the solid copper bar? Did you have
to set up some kind of jig to hold the bar in place while you
soldered on the components? Point to point looks so nice! I'm
going to have to give it a try soon.
Another old question, but do the resistors in the power supply
heat up the capacitors too much? or do you have something
between the caps and the where they're mounted?
Is that the star ground in the upper right hand corner of the picture?
Great job! inspirational :nod:
moe29 |
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| Netlist |
Thank you Moe
When you look at the lower copper wire you can see that I wrapped the wires from the big resistors around it.
They then held them in place very easily.
The upper and mid bar was not much of a problem too.
I plied the legs of the mosfets first and let the bar rest on those
plied feet.
Soldering is not a problem at all.
Just have enough patience too let the bars heat up.
Don't be afraid to heat things up, they will have to get used to it anyway :D
About the PSU R's:
They are 0.1ohm so they hardly dissipate anything.
The alu plate is slightly warm.
There is nothing between the plate and the caps but they stay
cool enough. I guess around 30°C.
Here's another picture of the star ground. The centre tap of the transformer goes directly to the centre point of the caps.
From there a big wire goes to the small signal board.
/Hugo |
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| JOE DIRT® |
Nice work!!!....thanks for showing the pics
DIRT® |
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| Netlist |
I can’t wait to see more AlephX’s arise.
If with picture we can inspire more people to build and show their work I would be happy to post a few more.
What about an AlephX gallery?
Like the PassDiy galleries?
I was thinking about it the other day but as I don’t know how to set up a site we maybe have to wait for someone to do this.
/Hugo :) |
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| moe29 |
Thanks Hugo!
i'm finishing my Aleph 2's and the pictures of your power supply
have given me some ideas on how to finish mine.
I just got a pair of the Aleph-X boards a few weeks a go, so i
guess that project will be done in the near future. I think with
the projects i've built so far i have some experience to tackle the
AX.
m. |
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