| poohbear |
Ok,
I havent seen a double ended 250w metal halide (hqi) setup set in stone, I know Negative Design has searched for ever so help me out here. What i found was this http://www.purelandsupply.com/item....37&PRID=1160757 It seems to be cheap with good specs (of what is listed anyway). You can browse the main page here http://www.purelandsupply.com/categ...l?UCIDs=1108137 maybe someone can find one better. So that brings the total to 40$ish for the bulb. The only other parts i know of that we need are, the bulb socket (double ended) and ballast, you can work your reflectors out on your own. But is there any other pieces im missing? I think i read something about an ignitor, is it needed? I will add parts as i find them and at the lowest price and put a up to date total. If anyone has an easy cheap source that would also save time. |
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| bitbyter |
| You only need an ignitor if you are using a magnetic ballast as far as I know. Electronic ballast do not need them. Just so that you know some magnetic ballast's produce a loud humm or whine when in use. You can find 250W double ended parts at www.diylabs.org . |
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| poohbear |
| Thanks this is the exact info im talking about. Now im leaning towards an electronic ballast as apposed to an hour ago when i wanted a magnetic one because of cheapness. I know parts can be bought at diylabs but i hear the color temp on his bulb is horrible. |
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| bitbyter |
| If you are using a computer as the video source for the lcd you can always adjust the colors if they are off due to your choice of lamp. |
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| poohbear |
| No im actually going to try to fit it in a commercial projector, and im going to use s video. Besides if the color level is a nasty red, wont all your whites be redish and thats not realy fixable by computer. |
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| bitbyter |
| Actually on an older page diylabs had a couple of different double ended 250W lamps listed with a color temp of 4200 vs. the crappy 3000. I'm assuming that he would select the best one but the best bet would be to contact him before ordering. |
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| poohbear |
| So the recommended is 4200? i hope so because thats all i can really find too. Now i need to find an electronic ballast and double ended socket. I think the first test im gonna do is to rip my craptastic ohp apart and put the light source in the commercial projector somehow just to make sure its not doa. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea.. IE: i could die, or mess something up, let me know. |
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| bitbyter |
| As far as I know 4200 is what most MH bulbs are rated at. |
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| poohbear |
| i dug this up from an old post of Rolms' "Furthermore, like I said on the webpage, given that the 250W HQI bulb is the same diameter as the single-ended medium-base 250 bulbs (which use a standard ballast rather than the expensive HQI ballast), this mod could be done for a whole lot less than I spent on it." Is this true? I always thought a standard 250w metal halide was way huger than an hqi... |
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| poohbear |
| Well, now im really not sure if i want to use a 250w hqi setup because i read an old thread about how higher power lamps (higher than the intended ones) could damage the insides of commercial projectors. Damnit now i dont know what to do, i want something brighter than the one link negative design sent me a couple days ago, its a guy who modded a sony projector with halogens if i remember right. |
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| Video Freak |
| Could damage it heat wise, however HQI ( metal halide) is much cooler then a halogen Example My OHP has a 410 watt fxl halogen and it warms a 20' by 15' room in 35-40 min to 75 degrees, In contrast the MH wouldnt do that, if you still concerned with heat get another pc fan and hook that up to the projector. |
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| poohbear |
| Very true! And my dumbass compleatly forgot this thing uses 250w metal halide anyway so it cant hurt to much. |
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| Property |
You need to hire a new dumbass.
:bawling: |
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| Negative Design |
| quote: | Originally posted by Property
You need to hire a new dumbass.
:bawling: |
im sorry but i dont get it...... :/ |
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| Video Freak |
| LOL I get it, he ment MY dumbass as posessive, as In Poobear had a person that was his, that he referres to as his "dumbass". nawwwww your not a dumbass sometimes things just slip our minds, well exept for me beacuse im perfect LOL NOT. L8er |
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| Negative Design |
LOL ooooh ok i just got it after readng it for the 15th time :)
but i DO have to disagree with you...Shane IS a dumbass...trust me i know ;) lol |
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| Property |
I had my own dumbass...But he fell down an elevator shaft. You see he thought the elevator door was just stuck and pried it open and aaaahhhhhhhhhhhh.
Unfortunately he was the last dumbass in a long generation of dumbasses that have served my family for generations...
So now we are stuck without a dumbass and are forced to borrow other people's dumbasses.
But that's another story..... |
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| Negative Design |
thank you for the free show mr. jerry seinfeld -! LOL !-
ok now get off my property b4 i call the cops! (no pun intended :) )
:joker: :p |
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| poohbear |
wow, all i can really say is wow.... im gone so shortly and such hillarity insues... anyway enough making fun of my grammatical errors.
Here ya go jimmy or val or whatever you damn name is, this is what your company had to say
"It is not hqi compatible.
sorry .
P.S. This better not be that damn negative design kid who keeps emailing us, we will soon be forced to get a restraining order if you dont stop harrasing us. perv.
Bruce"
so yeah i guess it wont work. |
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| Video Freak |
| yea I emailed that guy from that site and he said that It wouldnt work for HQI and he wanted to know what I was needing it for and I said for my "aquarium" he hasent responded back, I think hes on to our rouse, still kinda shisty that he didnt respond yet. who knows I suspect 100+ will be the norm for this ballest.Freakin Home depot they should stock the ballest for our uses, geese the lack of consideration from them.LOL |
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| poohbear |
ok the people from pure land supply (http://www.purelandsupply.com/categ...l?UCIDs=1108137) emailed me and sent me the specs. http://www.ushio.com/files/UHI-DE%20SpecSheet.pdf
They have 150 watters with 12000 lumens and 4200 color temp or 11000 lumens and 5200 color temp. Which would be better and why?
ALSO
If i remember the specs of the expensive lamps that were made for my commercial projector, they were 10000 lumens and had a 3200 color temp, i will double check. So if i can make an effective reflector (or rip the one from my ohp) It should be brighter or atleast the same brightness of the stock lamp. WOOO HOOO! But then again i could just use the 250 watters incase i suck at making a reflector. Either way let me know what you think of those bulbs and my theory.
Im personally leaning towards the 150w mainly because of size, although its not a whole lot smaller, it might help depending on the lamp opening of the projector i ordered. I might change my mind if it gets here and i have more room to work with. |
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| karrock |
OK -- my almost-set-up lighting system is an ICECAP 250W MH electronic ballast with one of the $33.95 DE's (4200K temp, 20k lumens, 10k life) from BulbSource (they're Eiko's BTW). I got the ballast for $120 from OceanEncounter and a DE socket pair from HelloLights ($12.50).
If you get the BulbSource cheapies, make sure you get the 70W/150W DE sockets from HelloLights -- they're actually rated for 1000W (as seen in their photo) and you need the ball-end spring clips as opposed to the 250W DE sockets with a wedge design.
Still waiting for the sockets to come in and it's a nice week-long UPS ride from Cali, but I did at least test my wiring skills with the ballast and a temporary bulb rig. The electronic ballast produces a light buzzing noise when it's warming and starting up the bulb, but after that, it's completely silent.
http://oceanencounter.com/Merchant2...egory_Code=ICMH
http://www.hellolights.com/15hqilamhol1.htm |
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| mhelin |
| Does anyone know a place where to get the DE HQI sockets in Europe? Helloligths won't sell overseas (and the postage propably is too much)... |
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| karrock |
Poohbear -- did you ever put something together? And if so (or not), what? (or what did you try?)
My plan is to do something along the lines of DIY Labs' compact Mark II design, but the project is currently at a complete standstill for lack of a reflector. I did finally get a useable pair of HQI sockets, but there isn't much use protyping without a completely functional (optimal) light source.
I placed an order on Amazon for a $10 set of small stainless steel bowls (looked highly polished -- by Progressive), so I'm hoping one of those will be at least somewhat useful.
With a 500W halogen worklight I've tried my projection panel both intact and removed from its chassis. I thought I could use it more easily dismounted, but the solder points for the flex cable proved to be tempermental when moved too much, so for fear of causing irrepairable damage, I put it back in its protective little plastic shell. And unless I find a good (and protective) way of mounting the panel and controller board inside the projector, it'll probably stay there. |
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| poohbear |
I think i have a setup in mind, but the people at yellertwo and i havent quite been able to come to agreement on a bulb. I might have to order the bulb seperate.
Here is the bulb i want http://www.goodmart.com/products/36759.htm
because its small, bright, and not to expensive. I have seen other brands that are brighter and im still looking for retailers of them. But what i plan to do is use that bulb with a 150w icecap ballast, a g12 socket, and the commercial lamp reflector. |
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| Negative Design |
| why an icecap ballast..?!?! thought u said it was compatible with normal MH ballasts... or do you just wish to pay more?:confused: :scratch: |
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| karrock |
| quote: | Originally posted by poohbear
I think i have a setup in mind, but the people at yellertwo and i havent quite been able to come to agreement on a bulb. I might have to order the bulb seperate.
Here is the bulb i want http://www.goodmart.com/products/36759.htm
because its small, bright, and not to expensive. I have seen other brands that are brighter and im still looking for retailers of them. But what i plan to do is use that bulb with a 150w icecap ballast, a g12 socket, and the commercial lamp reflector. |
Poohbear: Very cool! Be interesting to see if 150W can pull it off as a projection source. Have you figured out what to use as a reflector, or do you have a cannibalized fixture in mind? The form factor could allow you to use a can from a ceiling fixture and optimally an ellipsoidal (better than parabolic).
Negative Design: I think some HQI's require an electronic ballast of a certain spec or better, although Sylvania's specs only mention that the ballast has to be ANSI. Besides, magnetics are bulkier, less energy efficient, and noisier.
Electronic ballasts cost more, but you get:
* Compact self-contained design
* Don't require separate capacitor or ignitor
* Extended lamp life - up to 25%
* Consistent lamp color
* Uniform lumen output
* Reduced lamp flicker
* Cool, silent operation
* Long ballast life (most have a 3 year warranty) |
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| ArcadEd |
Karrock,
I am just curious, can't you buy something like this halogen work lamp and use the reflector out of it somehow? I have one here if you want me to take a closer look or take some pictures.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...itemnumber=2662
But maybe because the sockets are coming out of the sides of it, it won't reflect as much as you need.
Just a thought. |
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| poohbear |
| Im using an electronic ballast because its smaller, quieter, more engergy effecient.. etc.. And for the reflector i plan to use a canabalized stock reflector with the built in bulb. Hopefully i dont blow up the bulb and get shrapnel in my face... I have pics of the lamp i plan to canabalize posted someplace on the forum. |
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| karrock |
Actually, that's the halogen worklight I own, or something like it... only $9 at Home Depot. But the reflector is designed for the much smaller halogen bulb and it's really pretty crappy -- not much more than a sheet of aluminum with a stamped pebble finish and not even polished.
Make sure you enclose your prototype in a cardboard box or something if you're worried about the lamp exploding... that's what I did the first time I fired it up. Tempered glass between light source and LCD will hopefully protect your panel as well. |
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| karrock |
Did you mean this guy?
 |
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| ArcadEd |
I forked out the cash for a 250w Icecap ballast, HQI Bulb and sockets. If I don't get to anxious I will take some pictures of before and after the retro fit.
My Current Setup:
OHP with 1000w Halogen BRH bulb
MegaShow LCD Panel, 100:1 CR, 30ms RT, 640x480, 16mil colors
Cheap VGA Box
Xbox, and PS2 connected with Svideo through VGA Box. |
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| sadd3j |
Good luck with ArcadEd! Keep us updated with how it goes :)
-rep |
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| jcbklyny |
| I'm also thinking about using an ICECAP ballast for my new setup... check out the NEC 1560M Info thread over the next few weeks. |
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| Negative Design |
not to rain on ur parade but..i posted that link a while ago :)
AND...it wouild be better to go with yellertwo/Diylabs bcuz it comes with socket sockets range from12$ to 24$ |
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| Video Freak |
| AHHHHHH OK My bad dwaggggggggggggggg:nod: |
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| karrock |
| quote: | Originally posted by karrock
Did you mean this guy?
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So was this the reflector you're gonna use Poohbear? |
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| poohbear |
| No way, that's huge! Im using the commercial reflector that came with the lamp in my commercial video projector, im trying to retrofit a commercial video projector not an ohp. |
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| karrock |
| Ah well... that might have been a good reflector for my bulb... |
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| ace3000_1 |
heya poo lol i see that we have had a few jokes in here about asses lol i got a question for property first, hey peperty what are u going to do for a face when the baboon wants its *** back?lol anyway the best bulb to use and the brightest for a 150w is the phillips cdm range ive been in and out of bulb manufactures sites for weeks comparing bulbs and the cdm seems the best and smallest. The initial lumen output it 14000lm and half life output is about 9000-10000lm this bulb has to be run off of a electronic ballast however and colour temps are 3000 and 4200, the osram are not very bright compared to this bulb but this bulb only lasts 6000hrs and has a smaller arc
Trev |
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| poohbear |
| Yeah i was debating between the phillips and the ushio, the ushio is just under 4 inches and has pretty good specs. Do you have a link to the phillips specs? |
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| ace3000_1 |
| na i dont poo but i got pdf's of the bulbs that i cant send in here grrrrrrrrrr |
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| Video Freak |
| ace do they have a link to a website? if so just give the links otherwise open the PDF and do a screen capture if they are only 1 page otherwise you would just have to email them to people. |
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| ace3000_1 |
hey nice bulb poo i wonder how much they are to buy if i can get them here cheap ill let u know ill try to find out over here, vf with the phillips site it sux! lol when u got into the site and enter your location u go into their server and u dont have any link so thats why i didnt post a link the screen capture i wouldnt have a clue to do so help me out there and ill try to post it for ya, poo i think the phiilips is smaller by 9mm im not sure thats my memory for ya btu ill get back to yas
Trev |
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| poohbear |
| I cheapest i saw them for was 32$ |
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| JetGuy |
You wouldnt need an electronic ballast for this bulb. this place has a M102 Magnectic ballast kit for $52.
http://www.hidirect.com/framesets/ballast.htm
If the bulb is as inexspensive as you say, this might be a good setup. |
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| poohbear |
| Yeah i was happy to figure out that it didnt need an expensive ballast, but then i realized it should be able to use the ballast that is currently inside my commercial projector!!! It has a 150w metal halide bulb, so would the ballast be a standard 150w metal halide ballast, and wouldnt it power this bulb!? god i hope so |
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| JetGuy |
Pooh, I am not sure about that one. If the bulb in your commercial projector was a metal halide and not a UHP,UHE,VIP
or otherwise it should probably work. I think the other type of lamps I listed are mercury arc or something to that effect. |
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| poohbear |
| well it doesnt matter now, i just looked at the specs of my projector again and found it has 250w instead of 150w. Damnit!!! but yeah i guess im gonna have to buy a ballast after all, now i dont know if i should buy an electronic or a magnetic. |
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| ace3000_1 |
heya pooh have a look at this bulb its cheap and got great spec's the best ive seen yet for a 150w mh its abit big for what u want it for though but it would work wonders in a ohp and its cheap to
http://www.elights.com/ven150watmet.html
Trev |
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| poohbear |
| Yeah thats way to big, id rather not have anything over 4 inches. It is a nice bulb though, good specs for its size, i wish i had more room to work with. |
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| poohbear |
| I finally ordered the bulb, A single ended 150w hqi. |
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| Video Freak |
| Ok whats the web address for Yellowtwo? So far it seems that they are the cheapest place overall, hellow lights increased there ballest price by 20.00 Such turds. |
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| poohbear |
| www.yellertwoproducts.com GOD I HOPE my bulbs gets here today!!! its been in the city 45 minutes away from my house for about 24 hours... drop the damn thing off already!! |
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| Video Freak |
| Hey thanks for the site POOH, I noticed on the site it says " we teamed up with DIYlabs.org" I emailed the owner of yellowtwo because if they are just a middle man and ALAN from DIYlabs will be doing the shipping etc IM gonna go someplace else, I have heard too many bad stories about ALAN and his crappy shipping and packing, we will see what if any email responce back I get. |
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| Video Freak |
Hey I allready Got a responce back....that was quick
"Thank you for letting me know. Remember Alan and I are associates and work together. Because Alan buys his ballast/bulbs from me, and in turn he does all my lab testing. If the Packing is not right it reflects on me and I like good packing as you will know. But if buy from me (e-mail) or my web site that has been going thru a rebuilding stage lately, I will ship directly from me. If you buy from Alan they will come from him after he gets them from me.
I try to ship every day if possible, sometimes every other or over the weekend. I will admit some of the delay has been due to the time frame that our orders are arriving from IceCap, But I am working on deleting that problem. But If an item is being damaged it is covered by IceCap Warranty. In less it is being caused by shipping and should be covered by the shipping insurance. If we are not packing it well enough than it is our problem. I will make sure to pass on this problem of packing to Alan."
OK so I will prob order from yellowtwo sometime. |
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| poohbear |
| yeah yellertwo is good about shipping, i dont remember how long it took to get my ballast and cord, but i think it was only a couple days. I was surprised, i figured it was something my mom got off ebay but i read the box and yeah it was fast.... i need to wire my ballast up still though. Im so ****ed the bulb is in the city 45 minutes away from my house and has been there for 24 FUKin hours!!!! DRIVE IT TO MY HOUSE ALREADY!!!! ARGGGGG I HATE FEDEX!!!! ALOT!!! |
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| Video Freak |
| OK I just ordered the " basic setup" from www.yellertwoproducts.com hopefully It will be here within the week, Then Im gonna retrofit it into My oldschool Portascribe projector and see what I get, tho Im gonna see if Invsol has any Dead Elmos or Dukanes with the good optics. I will post My findings and pictures pictures pictures when I get this. |
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| karrock |
| What are they doing for a reflector? I don't see one for sale... I tried a small stainless steel bowl, but it's not completely round... flat on the bottom... might try to coerce it into roundness... Found a nice large round-bottom SS ladle at Linens n' Things, but it was part of a $40 6-piece set by Oneida. The $10 Calphalon I also found at LnT was an OK size but it wasn't round, it was very oval. The OXO wasn't polished and was the wrong shape... there were some others, but most tended to be too small or unpolished. |
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| Video Freak |
| Well My OHP had the reflector allready in it( reason why I bought it) so Im not sure what One does if they dont have a Reflecter from a OHP? |
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| poohbear |
| hmmm i got my bulb today, its crazy bright... When i first turn it on i was like... is that it? and then it started getting brighter and brighter, and yeah... it got super bright, it made shadows on objects in the room in the middle of the day with the widows unshaded. After i turned it off it tipped over on the carpet burnt a lil and started smoking. Then i put it in the hole of my projector but didnt turn the projector on only the light. The square projection was visable but dim. Im sure if i use a reflector it will work alot better. But after a few minutes it started to smoke so i turned it off. I think and hope, that it just had some carpet still stuck on it and when it got heated up it started bruning it, and not my projector, eitherway im pretty sure its gonna be way to hot. Maybe i can put a plexy glass seperator inbetween the bulb and the light terminal, then replace all the plastic sides of the bulb area with fans. Damn i dont know... and i also dont know what to do about a reflector i wanted to use the original but the hole in the back is to small. |
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| poohbear |
| damn, i just looked at the bulb and it has a big brown spot of crustyness on it, im guessing its the burnt carpet. I tried to rub it off with a tissue but it didnt work. Is it dangerous to run it with that **** stuck on it? I hope i didnt just waste 60$.... I also looked inside the projector and it burnt a tiny hole in the top in under a minute, im pretty sure this isnt gonna work... damn... I hope i can find something else to use it on. |
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| poohbear |
| Oh and i thought i might add the whole thing runs compleatly silent, i didnt even know the ballast was on. |
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| sadd3j |
Hey pooh,
Since noone seems to have mentioned it, it sounds like you aren't being careful enough with your bulb, that thing should be treated pretty carefully! I'd be pretty bummed about having a "brown spot of crustyness" on it :eek:. Make sure you aren't touching the bulb with your bare hand either, the oil etc. shortens the life of your bulb. You might want to try cleaning it with some alcohol or something similar. And be careful, don't wanna be starting a fire :flame:
good luck,
-rep |
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| jcbklyny |
sadd3j is right. You should use an alcohol swab to handle and install all MH & MSD bulbs. Some bulbs come with it. NEVER with your bare hands.
You'll create hotspots on the bulb. |
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| poohbear |
| Yeah I knew to be super careful, but I couldnt wait to power it up. I upluged the ballast and it fell on the floor and dragged the bulb and socket with it. I never touched the bulb with my bare hands, It has a pretty big base to hold on to when handling it. What should i do about the big chunck of carpet stuck to it? Did i just waste 65$? I guess it doesnt matter, i dont know what i would use this damn bulb for anyway... cooking maybe? |
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| theloneabalone |
okay this may sound too dumb but....
assuming your carpet was nylon or plastic-based, it melted and started burning from the heat of the bulb, right? that means the carpet fiber is a thermoplastic, which means it softens when heated.....get what i'm trying to suggest here???
ok If you still don't get it i'll just say it.
turn your lamp on until it warms enough so you can use a credit card or some smooth edged tool to pry the "softened" thermo plastic off.
should work. |
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| poohbear |
| Hey, thanks for the tip, but im afraid it will explode if i mess with it anymore. I might try though. It looks like charcoal right now... so i dont know if its gonna work. |
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| JetGuy |
| Pooh, I work in the areospace industry, and we use alot of solvents. One of the solvents we use does a fairly decent job of melting most plastics. You might want to give it a try. It wont hurt the glass or the ceramic base. Its called MEK or Methyl ethyl ketone. You can get it at most hardware stores that carry alot of paint supplys. Use protective gloves and try not to breathe much of the fumes, its also extremly flamable so be careful. Ater you wipe the burnt plastic off with some ketone, use a little rubbing alcohal for a final clean. |
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| NITEMARE |
i don't know if touching aplies the same way to these 250W HQI the same way as it does to normal halogen lamps. i just got my 250W HQI and it is a bulb in a bulb. just like every HQI i guess. so the inner bulb is the real deal and super sensitive, the otuer is protecting it. ok the carpet incident is a real killer. i would throw it away and buy a new one...
but i wonder how sensitive the outer bulb is. because in my setup it's beeing touched by the reflector, wich is a stainless steel bowl. how much pressure can i afford to put on the bulb? should i go back to design and redo the whole thing, so nothing touches the bulb?? |
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| JetGuy |
| I have messed around with different types of halide bulbs and your right, the quartz arc tube is what is fragile. I have run them finger prints all over my 400 watt and 1000 watt standard metal halide bulbs, and never had one scorch the outer envelope. Although, any dirt and or oil on the the outer tube is going to heat up the glass to some degree, and might shorten their life a bit. I would take the cautious rought with these and keep them clean just in case. There is alot less air space between the arc tube and the outer envelope glass on the Hqi compared to the standard mogul bulbs |
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| NITEMARE |
| i had a 400W HQI from philips. this thing was huge! ther bulb was simmilar to normal bulbs but cylindric. the 250W now seems the same size but the protecting bulb is much smaller and thus closer to the light bulb. now i can use more light from it, and save money since 400W is way to expensive! |
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| karrock |
| quote: | Originally posted by poohbear
hmmm i got my bulb today, its crazy bright... When i first turn it on i was like... is that it? and then it started getting brighter and brighter, and yeah... it got super bright, it made shadows on objects in the room in the middle of the day with the widows unshaded. After i turned it off it tipped over on the carpet burnt a lil and started smoking. Then i put it in the hole of my projector but didnt turn the projector on only the light. The square projection was visable but dim. Im sure if i use a reflector it will work alot better. But after a few minutes it started to smoke so i turned it off. I think and hope, that it just had some carpet still stuck on it and when it got heated up it started bruning it, and not my projector, eitherway im pretty sure its gonna be way to hot. Maybe i can put a plexy glass seperator inbetween the bulb and the light terminal, then replace all the plastic sides of the bulb area with fans. Damn i dont know... and i also dont know what to do about a reflector i wanted to use the original but the hole in the back is to small. |
Sorry to hear about the "carpet incident"... hopefully your bulb's not completely unusable now...
For a heat shield, you're gonna want to use real glass, and probably even tempered glass, but not plexi (or perspex or acrylic... maybe for the case, but it better be cooled well) -- don't want to throw any more plastic into the equation, right? |
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| poohbear |
| haha good idea. Im really not sure what i will use the bulb for, im pretty sure it will ruin my projector. I might use the ballast to retrofit a different commerical projector bulb though... damn i might just sell it on on ebay. |
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| karrock |
Now that the reflector has been cut to fit around the bulb (my friend's pneumatic grinder and carbide bit made short work of it even though it was over a mm thick), I've continued on to more advanced prototyping.
The sockets and reflector are mounted to a temporary base and the makeshift "chassis" is a cardboard box with an opening cut for the LCD panel. The triplet is mounted on a freestanding cardboard panel, so the only light spoilage comes through the LCD and the edges of the fresnel. Next testing step will probably be nesting another box over the first one with the lens poking out the front.
Screen is just a white bedsheet for now and the photos were taken at night with no additional ambient light. |
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| NITEMARE |
| i would like to see some results with your setup, especially with this reflektor yof yours. i have a simmillar one but it was not helping at all. it produced hotspots wildly over the screen. the light it was reflecting was not usable at all... |
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| karrock |
| Hmm... I had two photos from the screen, but they're not showing... Trying again... |
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| wow, so your reflector seems perfect! no misled light, no hotspots... |
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| karrock |
I'm very happy with the results so far, but mind you that these photos were taken in a completely dark room at night with only the projector and some light bleeding from the test chassis (not completely enclosed). Visibility during the day is quite another matter -- tends to be very washed out. But maybe as the projector components become completely enclosed and I fabricate a better screen, that'll improve as well.
A friend of mine is trying to help out by finding a better reflector. He thought he might have one from an old photographic bulb flash unit. It'd be a larger diameter and possibly a more efficient design.
The quality of your fresnel plays a huge role with your projected light, so maybe you can test another one? |
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| Negative Design |
very nice indeed looks similiar to my old panel.
whats the contrast ratio? |
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| karrock |
Contrast is supposedly only 200:1, but it looks pretty damn good to me!
BTW -- here's one of those parabolic flash reflectors installed! And this photo wasn't even taken head-on! I was afraid the thing would fry my digicam's CCD! |
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| wow! yes i think it's possible to burn your ccd chip, since these lights are not only strong but have the same UV amount as the sun. use them with security glass... |
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