| Ford_V6 |
Hy.
I want to make this kind of crossover to connect a 12" sub and two sattelites (8" mid + TW) to the power amp.
All the speakers are 8 ohm.
Now. . . i would like the crossover to cut at 150 Hz. The sub must play what's under 150 Hz and the sattelites the rest.
What values would you recommend me for C and L in this case.
I have 64uF and 1.7 mH. Are these values right ?
Do you know a better method to connect these speakers to a stereo power amp ?
Thanks, |
|
|
| moamps |
Hi,
your schematic can not work; sub play only diference between L and R channel, Left MTW is out of phase.
Regards |
|
|
| Ford_V6 |
Ok, thanks
Now how can i still connect a subwoofer and two sattelites to a stereo amp ?
A link, a schematic something ?
Regards, |
|
|
| pinkmouse |
Hi Ford
I have never seen a passive crossover that will sum the bass from two channels .
Your options are to buy a dual voice coil sub driver, and use a circuit similar to the one below, (this crosses over 1st order 100Hz, and I would not recommend going higher for a single sub), or go active and build a PLLXO from Planet 10's site and get another amp. |
|
|
| audioPT |
Simple:
Just do this;
1- in one chanel, insert a inverter before the input of the amplifier, using a simple opamp.
2- in the output if this channel, invert the polarity of the speaker.
Here you have the 'magic of this':
connect the sub to the + outputs of both channels.
You can still use the crossovers you design.
:cool: :cool: :cool:
Any comments from moamps and pinkmouse? ;) ;)
This is a simple configuration of car audio amplifiers :rolleyes:
Pedro Martins |
|
|
| moamps |
| quote: | Originally posted by audioPT
Any comments from moamps and pinkmouse? ;) ;)
|
Hi, Pedro
Idea is OK. But, if somebody has knowledge to install inverter between preamp and amp, I think that better idea is implementation active sub.
In passive combination anyway you have big work to do; from huge choke for sub and rest of world to adjustment levels between. Simplest way is active.IMHO
Regards |
|
|
| pinkmouse |
| quote: | Originally posted by moamps
Idea is OK. But, if somebody has knowledge to install inverter between preamp and amp, I think that better idea is implementation active sub.
In passive combination anyway you have big work to do; from huge choke for sub and rest of world to adjustment levels between. Simplest way is active. |
Seconded;) |
|
|
| audioPT |
Of course active is the best way.
But I'm only thinking in low cost for Ford_V6;)
The implementation of an opamp it's very easy, right?
If cost isn't important, go active!
Regards
Pedro Martins |
|
|
| Ford_V6 |
Ok
Thanks, i will go active.
I was thinking in using a bridge configuration of the TDA7294 for the power stage.
Or is better a discrete amp ?
What do you think ? |
|
|
| audioPT |
Go! ;)
The better way to don't waste time is using bridged TDA's
Pedro Martins |
|
|
| moamps |
Hi,
bridged TDA7294 work very good in subs (with appropriate heatsink), but nominal impedance of speaker can not be smaller then 8ohms.
Regards |
|
|
| Ford_V6 |
I want to drive a 12" 8 ohm subwoofer.
Is better to brigde two TDA7293V than brigde the 7294 ? |
|
|
| Ford_V6 |
This is the driver i want to power. What do you think about it' ?
Is this driver any good ?
Specs :
Brand: Senon
Model- DYF1270-35
Size - 12"
Magnet weight - 60oz
Voice Coil - 2"
Max.Power - 300W
Frequency Response - 30-1KHz
Sensitivity - (1W/1M): 92dB |
|
|
| moamps |
| quote: | Originally posted by Ford_V6
I want to drive a 12" 8 ohm subwoofer.
Is better to brigde two TDA7293V than brigde the 7294 ? |
Hi,
I prefer TDA7293.
Regards |
|
|
| audioPT |
Don't forget to make a good box fot that sub!
Pedro Martins |
|
|
|
