Audio Project Amplifier Speaker Loudspeaker Kit
diyAudio.com diyAudio Forums Archive > Top > Other Stuff > Car Audio
 
what is this component? (surface mount) - Click HERE for Original Thread
marko
hi all, got this diamond audio d7065 i'm trying to fix up, but i can't find any info on this transistor(?) it's a surface mount part and has f007 056 on it! any help would be much appreciated :)

1moreamp
Try this Marko....:) PMBTA56
marko
thanks cecil, just had a quick look on ebay but can only find someone selling a reel of them!!

the amp works but has distorted output after a few moments... this part has a small hole in it and ohming out very low so a good place to start swapping parts out!

does anyone know what the deal is with diamond audio and esoteric audio? the board has esotric audio on it (was taped over at factory!). this one has #2 on the referance plate so a little special :)
marko
...also, looking at the data sheet PMBTA56 only has 2 legs on one side where as mine has 3 legs:confused:
Perry Babin
I think he meant PZTA56.
Mooly
If you can identify it spec wise fit a legged part-- it's been done many times before. You have loads of space in there. You can confirm PNP or NPN by comparing with the other side. See what voltages the other has across it and work from there.
If it's got a hole in it there are almost sure to be other failed parts, check and compare carefully before powering up. That transistor on the heatsink in front of it looks discoloured- the PCB at any rate.
Regards Karl
marko
that discolouration is flux from 2 new 2sa1303's i fitted (that i didn't need to in the end :xeye: )
1moreamp
The part number came off of my Diamond print for a D7401. But Perry could be right about the part number as he posted it, and the print I have could have a typo. Have you checked WWW.FindChips.com for a search. :)
gmphadte
Just use a leaded equivalent.

Gajanan phadte
marko
quote:
Originally posted by gmphadte
Just use a leaded equivalent.

Gajanan phadte

i'm struggling to find anything to be honest!


:(
Perry Babin
If the part is indeed a PZTA56, you can use an MPSA56 temporarily. They are electrically equivalent but the case of the PZTA allows it to dissipate more heat. If the PZTA ran hot, the MPSA56 is likely to fail but it should allow you to do further testing.
marko
i'm struggling to find PZTA56 over here in the UK :( any suggestions anybody? rs components or cpc arn't listing this device either...
theAnonymous1
quote:
Originally posted by marko
i'm struggling to find PZTA56 over here in the UK :( any suggestions anybody? rs components or cpc arn't listing this device either...

I can get you all the PZTA56 you want, but it would be 2-3 weeks before they end up on your side of the pond.
marko
quote:
Originally posted by theAnonymous1


I can get you all the PZTA56 you want, but it would be 2-3 weeks before they end up on your side of the pond.

email sent


:)
marko
i got the parts yesterday, many thanks!!!

it took me all of 30 seconds to solder the new part in with my new miniature soldering iron and it now works and sounds a treat, i'm really happy i got this working, she's a beauty and number 2 off the production line as well!!

mark.
EWorkshop1708
Is the resistor nearby still discolored or did you change that too?

(see the picture, only the resistor near the blown transistor is darker than the rest)
damage
quote:
Originally posted by EWorkshop1708
Is the resistor nearby still discolored or did you change that too?

(see the picture, only the resistor near the blown transistor is darker than the rest)

I was gonna say those outputs don't look like the solder pad is too healthy either.
1965GTO
Esoteric Audio had a high end amplifer line, then got into a bit of financial trouble and sold it to Diamond Audio. Both companies are located in Arizona , USA. Esoteric is now in the audio/video connective business, IE: HDMI cables, audio RCA cables etc...
marko
i didn't change the resistor as it was still ohming out ok, it looked like it just got a liitle hot!

as for the transistor pads, they're 100% ok, what you see is a little bit of brown flux from soldering in new parts, i've since cleaned all this off :)
1moreamp
Glad it worked out for you Marko. Next time you run across one of these LMK I have 5 spare boards for parts. They all seemed to die the same death due to badly wound rail filter toroid coils that liked to short out on themselves and place a dead short on the entire power supply.
Yours was the first one I have ever seen with a driver failure. Other issues were the upright filter / front end boards....C:)
marko
thanks cecil :)

looks like someone already played with the toroid closest to the terminals as the solder job wasn't that great so i redid it! i did notice the cross-over board got a little warm, maybe this is normal but i wasn't concearned as i had it playing quite a while and it didn't get too hot to touch just warm...

i'm really impressed with this amp, the fit and finish is as good as any amp i've ever seen, attention to detail is amazing on the case!

i wouldn't mind one of the big mono blocks to match it, would make for a very simple set up with plenty of power

:)
1moreamp
Yeah there are two current limit resistors that like to burn out on those cards, along with push button failures and bad thru-hole connections to the board I.E. broken solder joint on the thru-holes.

Then theres the big noise filter toroid that shorts out on itself and causes the entire power supply to burn out. I HIGHLY recommend removing the filter toroid and rewinding it with insulation like Kapton tape on the bare toroid and if possible transformer lacquer to seal the coils to prevent abrasion shorting issues.

Other then these repeated failure issues I think they are really well built and offer outstanding eye candy effect also , sorta like PG amps from the day. I actually bought the 5 spare boards as possible build ups, but just never got the time or sinks to follow through on the idea...lol lol lol I remember when they were bought cause all they did was place a stencil over the old name on the boards and continue selling these amps...C:)
marko
quote:
lol lol lol I remember when they were bought cause all they did was place a stencil over the old name on the boards and continue selling these amps...C

try black insulation tape, yes that's what mine had!! i pulled it off out of curiosity and there lies "Esotric Audio" and "E7056" :D so i left it off.

i'm not quite upto rewinding toroids yet, probley more confidance than skill needed at my level although i'd like to try one day :)
1moreamp
The filter toroids are simple all you need to do is make sure and count the windings coming off and just make sure the same number go back on and there is no real order to mess up, just a pain in the toukus...lol lol lol

Your aware of my project on the other place, so yeah I'm feeling you about winding toroids but its worth it in the long run. You can find all the magnet wire you will need on flea-bay of all places. They even sell small spools of 2 or 3 hundred feet for small jobs like yours...

If your not up for a rewind then try and find some transformer lacquer to coat it with before closing up your toy, they fail from abrasion of the coatings so if you catch it early it will never happen, but the windings need to be sealed with something that will keep them from vibrating and abrading the insulation coatings...C:)

Page generated in 0.04809308052063 seconds with 17 queries,
spending 0.00713968 doing MySQL queries and 0.04095340 doing PHP things.

Powered by: Search Engine Indexer and vBulletin
Copyright ©1999-2008 diyAudio.com