| Algar_emi |
I'm building my own version of the ShigaClone CD Transport, refer to original thread "Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story" for details. The Transport mechanical design is greatly inspired from Peter Daniel own design.
Here the external 12Vdc supply. It is assembled into an aluminum cylindrical enclosure. I was able to mount the big power transformer 266LH25, the two MSR860 rectifier diodes, an AC inlet socket, the output shielded cable, a junction terminal block and an inline fuse socket.
The transformer is mounted on rubber insulator and held in place with only two screws.
The front will be made of wood, as the transport main platform (butcher block).
It will rest on two aluminum round bar, as the Labs 47 Power Dumpty supply.
Here the inside. It is rather compact. |
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| Algar_emi |
| And the rear power supply view. |
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| Algar_emi |
I did a complete AutoCAD drawing of the transport and the EZ31 parts that we need. Scale in inches, sorry guys using the metric system.
You can use it to test your own enclosure dimensions. |
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| Algar_emi |
| For the one that don't have AutoCAD, here a top and front view of my future transport. |
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| Algar_emi |
Here the Transport wood base and all metal parts before assembly.
I'm using 1.5"X2" aluminum bars, 1.5"X0.75" brass bars, 3/16" copper base plate. The front aluminum channel section will receive the buttons and the display. The transport metals need finishing. The front display metal section is already very nice. |
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| Algar_emi |
I completed the Power Supply. The front wood piece is done. The supply will rest on 1 brass round head nut on the front and two rubber feet at the back.
The Aluminum and wood of the supply will match the transport materials. Here a complete view. |
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| quan |
| Lovely job you've done there |
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| JC Fardo |
| quote: | Originally posted by Algar_emi
Here the Transport wood base and all metal parts before assembly.
I'm using 1.5"X2" aluminum bars, 1.5"X0.75" brass bars, 3/16" copper base plate. The front aluminum channel section will receive the buttons and the display. The transport metals need finishing. The front display metal section is already very nice. |
Thanks Algar for pics and ideas.
Could you please detail springs specs, if any and estimated top transport weight.
Cheers |
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| Algar_emi |
Thanks Quan. I'm not sure about the springs just yet. For the moment they are the EZ31 battery connectors springs that I recycled. The top platform springs forever if I excite it. Oscillation frequency is about 2-3 Hz, but really need to amortized. They are probably not stiff enough. I tried to put foam into the spring without any good result.
Top platform (metal only) weight is: 4.980 Kg
Spring: Conical shape, Lenght 29mm (uncompressed), Base diam. 17mm, Top diam. 10mm, wire diam. 1.22mm, 4 springs compress to 23mm when loaded but the platform 5Kg. |
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| Algar_emi |
Here my what I call my Control Self. It is the original display PCB, cut to fit and accept the two front toggle switches (PWR and TOC), with on top the relocated switches STOP-FB-PLAY-FF-RPT. These buttons are made of chromed brass. Again, they are recycled antenna tips from the EZ31 itself. I re-used the original plastic LCD window.
The PCB will be mounted from the back, into the butcher block. The top switches will be connected to the PCB using small wires. These switches are the original PCB ones. They will be mounted in the wood block, into drill holes and fix using glue. The 2X2 aluminum channel will be screwed on the block from the top with to stainless steel allen bolts. |
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| Algar_emi |
I worked on the wood block to install the front panel and its controls.
The top buttons are installed. They just need to be connected by wires. They are aligned perfectly with the alu plate and the metal press buttons. I won't glue them in place, the slot is to let pass the wires. |
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| Algar_emi |
| I also cut the needed space to receive the pcb and the two toggle switches. |
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| steenoe |
Here is a head up for the less mechanically/Practically minded.....
Actually you dont need to build a fantastic looking chassis/suspension to have this drive sounding great!! Here is what I arrived at, for now! Drilling a few hole is all it takes;) The build in linesignal is not bad at all!! The Digital signal is also great!! Here is a pic of what is needed to extract the particular sinals!!! Except for a little studying the schematics, all it takes is a little persistance;) I used a BNC connection to achieve 75R impedance. I incourage you to do as you please;) Do yourself the favour and drill 3 holes, and you will have all the signals output you need:)
:) |
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| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by steenoe
Here is a head up for the less mechanically/Practically minded.....
Actually you dont need to build a fantastic looking chassis/suspension to have this drive sounding great!! Here is what I arrived at, for now! Drilling a few hole is all it takes;) The build in linesignal is not bad at all!! The Digital signal is also great!! Here is a pic of what is needed to extract the particular sinals!!! Except for a little studying the schematics, all it takes is a little persistance;) I used a BNC connection to achieve 75R impedance. I incourage you to do as you please;) Do yourself the favour and drill 3 holes, and you will have all the signals output you need:)
:) |
Ups sorry, I thought I posted in PD's thread:xeye:
:) |
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| Algar_emi |
| No problem. Here the rear panel two connectors, Power Input and Digital SPDIF Output. |
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| Algar_emi |
| To route the different cables and wires, I cut through the wood block channels. |
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| Algar_emi |
| The bottom of the wood block will be cover with nice recycles 1/4 inch aluminum plates. I'll install three decoupling cones in it as feet. |
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| johnm |
Excellent work - love seeing a project come together in picture form! Inspiring stuff!
- John |
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| Algar_emi |
| Glad you like. There more to come. Here about to modify the transport PCB. Opened the transport by unsoldering the two motors terminals, then unplug the white flat ribbon cable to remove the PCB to modify. |
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| Algar_emi |
| Here the PCB before modification. Use the file playermods.pdf as a guideline on how to modify the PCB. There is some parts to remove, some to exchange and one wire to install. |
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| Algar_emi |
Here the side view of the modified PCB. It is rather easy to do.
One thing to take care is when replacing E3,E4 caps, make sure that the new ones to get in the way of the laser head assembly when it slides. Make sure to install these two caps as close to E2 as possible, incline them a little bit is possible.
I used blue tack to fix the new crystal and keep it from vibrating. |
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| JC Fardo |
Hello Algar
I´m also appreciating your progress, thanks. Very helpful. Some doubts came up too. I noticed you (and all others) keep the white flat cable socket in the main PCB. What about the other end, in the display board? I supose you´re going to solder single wires to the socket pins and then to the separete push buttons and the LCD screen.
Thanks for comments.
BTW I didn´t touch my kit so far because I´waiting for PS parts, where I´ll start on. |
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| Algar_emi |
Ha, Ha! You're going ahead of me JC Fardo, I was getting there ;)
I'm planning to replace this white flat ribbon cable because it is not long enough for my case. Also it is cumbersome to route and fragile.
Also, I want to be able to just unplug the top transport section with its metal base, and remove it from the butcher block wood base.
My plan is to use small 30 awg wirewrap wires and solder them directly at the connector pins, then break these wires using a DB25 connector female. This connector will hang down from the top metal transport and connect on the male DB25 mounted on the wood base.
The other wires TOC switch, +/-V supply and display Led supply will be routed through a DB9. Only the digital output signal will be routed using a small coax cable.
I'll try to balance the top metal platform by routing the the DB25 on one side of the transport, and the DB9 on the other side.
To remove the transport, I will only need to unsolder the coax, then unplug both DB connectors from the wood base.
Voilà, answer to your question :cool: |
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| Algar_emi |
| My prototype is up and running. |
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| rikkert1978 |
| How does it sound compared to the original non modified one?:) |
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| Algar_emi |
Not there yet. I'm stuck into an hotel room and I can only verify that every functions is working, so the two PCB I modified are still working. This proof that Peter Daniel modifications instructions are perfect. I didn't have to use any cap on the new crystal. I just modified the transport PCB according to the instructions and it worked.
I don't have any DAC with me to connect it to. Also, I can just compare it to an other transport, certainly not to the original EZ31B, that sounds just plain awfull (well it was just a cheap boombox anyway). |
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| Algar_emi |
| Bottom platform is completed. It can accept cones or E-A-R Composite Specialty isolation feet. It is mounted using large thread stainless steel screws (from my pool ;) ) |
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| Algar_emi |
Here the wood platform undergoing finishing. You can see the DB25 connectors cut-out on the top, on the left. I can use only one DB25, the LCD need only 18 wires, +/-V and TOC switch and this is all I need. The small hole close to it, is for the SPDIF coax cable.
Into the base, I dig an other compartment to receive a Tent Audio XO2 Clock, if I decide to try one. |
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| clearaudio |
| For all of you whose interested in the platter and screw on cap for the shigaclone mechanism, I am able to supply. The cost is USD$50 including postage to any where in the world. it will be made either in delrin or nylon. Pictures to follow soon. PM me, from Singapore. |
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| sunrise |
| quote: | Originally posted by Algar_emi
Here the wood platform undergoing finishing. You can see the DB25 connectors cut-out on the top, on the left. I can use only one DB25, the LCD need only 18 wires, +/-V and TOC switch and this is all I need. The small hole close to it, is for the SPDIF coax cable.
Into the base, I dig an other compartment to receive a Tent Audio XO2 Clock, if I decide to try one. |
Any progress on this one??! |
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| dantwomey |
Sylvain,
Both of us have the Shigaclone and an AYA DAC. I am absolutely thrilled with the combination of these two devices. Have you tried your two together and if so what are your thoughts?
Regards,
Dan :D |
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| JC Fardo |
| quote: | Originally posted by Algar_emi
And the rear power supply view. |
Hello Sylvain
Did you use any fuse?. My clone is just about to get finished. I had only weekends to work and a lot of mess happened with boxes, frames, etc.
How is your progress
Thanks and best regards
JC |
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