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Best way to destroy a Subwoofer - Click HERE for Original Thread
boxcustom
I would like to destroy a subwoofer. 400 watt rms, 3 inch dual 2 ohm voice coil. I need to keep the woofer intact with no visible damage. I just want to destroy one or more of the voice coils. My plan is to connect the voice coil (s) to 110 volt ac. Easy. Just listen to the 60 hz tone until it fails. My other option is to connect the coils up to a 12 voit deep cycle battery with 800 CCA's. What do you think?
Jonny Hotnuts
Get youself an arc welder and connect the ground to the negitive and the stick clamp to the positive.

WHAT FUN!!!!!
Perry Babin
DC wouldn't be as likely to cause damage to the spider.

People do this to try to get woofers exchanged under warranty but many manufacturers won't warranty woofers with open coils.
tsmith1315
quote:
My plan is to connect the voice coil (s) to 110 volt ac. Easy. Just listen to the 60 hz tone until it fails.


Would just clipping the lead wires not be an option?
whoandcar
110 VAC @ 8 ohms = 1500 Watts
Better go to a 220 Volt country and try there! 6 KW!
Flyin11
Try a couple hundred jiggawatts!!! :D :D :D
whoandcar
quote:
Originally posted by whoandcar
110 VAC @ 8 ohms = 1500 Watts
Better go to a 220 Volt country and try there! 6 KW!

I didn' note that yours was 2 ohm...

Better send me the driver and I will destroy it for you
(Ganted... :D )
Clipped
tape a couple of heavy lead fishing weights underneath the cone, to one side and play a low tone... the weights should cause the coil to rub on one side and eventually fail....do it out of the box.
gtforme00
What brand of sub is it?
junglejuice
The big question is WHY????

Bring it to Australia, 240v 50hz 120a = 28,800w....
boxcustom
The jerk rep will not take back a sub if it is not 150% bad. I returned 2 dual voice coil subs to my supplier that were smoked. Voice coils did not check ok. But they did not read 2 ohms. Voice coils did not rub, movement smooth. Sound was weak. Subs smelled so bad they left an odor in my vehicle. New subs were connected to a customer's bad RF 1500 watt BD amp. I just want to make sure they do not work 151%. I would rather not mention the brand name. It might get back to my supplier.
luka
Hi

Best way? Nuclear bomb, you won't even have to clean after it + there will be a lot to see

But in any case I would do that, not intentionally:whazzat:
quote:
Bring it to Australia, 240v 50hz 120a = 28,800w....
why...put it between phases, 400v where phase is 230v, you will get a bit more, and blow more things up
junglejuice
quote:
Originally posted by luka
Hi

Best way? Nuclear bomb, you won't even have to clean after it + there will be a lot to see

But in any case I would do that, not intentionally:whazzat:

why...put it between phases, 400v where phase is 230v, you will get a bit more, and blow more things up

If you want to go that way we can still go better as our phase to phase is 415v which is 86112w.......
luka
Hi

That would hurt the sub pretty good :D:D
pinkmouse
Fraud is a criminal offense in most countries. Oh, and what makes you think they won't check? Every damaged driver that I see gets taken apart either for QA purposes, sheer curiosity, or both.
AndrewT
do they perform as advertised and/or specified?
That becomes your complaint.
Work within that.
Have you tried measuring the T/S parameters?
theAnonymous1
quote:
Originally posted by AndrewT
Have you tried measuring the T/S parameters?

Andrew, you must be confused, this is the car audio forum.

In car audio you just put the driver in a randomly sized box and run kW of P.M.P.O. with heavy clipping through it until it dies an undignified death. Then you return it under warranty and try again.:smash:
luka
quote:
Originally posted by theAnonymous1


Andrew, you must be confused, this is the car audio forum.

In car audio you just put the driver in a randomly sized box and run kW of P.M.P.O. with heavy clipping through it until it dies an undignified death. Then you return it under warranty and try again.:smash:

ROFL!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
tsmith1315
quote:
In car audio you just put the driver in a randomly sized box

Reminds me of the first shop manager I had to work under.

A kid comes in and wants to put 4 8" woofers into his compact station wagon. I help him choose 8" Pyle Drivers based on his budget. I designed the box based on T/S parameters and start cutting the wood...

'Redneck of the Century' says "That box ain't big enough for 4 8's." (I can talk bad about Rednecks because I'm one, too. See my profile if you don't believe me.)

Me: "Actually it's exactly what they need. I calculated the size based on the speaker's T/S parameters, and they tell you what that particular speaker needs."

Him: "NO. That box is too small. You need a DEEP box for DEEP bass."

How silly of me.

So, I walked away and hand the job over to Mr. Brilliance who built the box 3 times as large as needed.

When done, he fires it up and the Pyles sound like garbage. He replaces them with M&M's at about twice the price, which coincidentally need a larger box and they sound much better.

Him: "See, I keep telling ya'll those Pyles ain't worth nuthin. I don't know why you keep sellin' 'em."

So that day I learned that you need a deep box for deep bass and M&M's were better than Pyles. And here I was taking physics classes to learn about this stuff.

Which inspired me to coin the phrase "Redneck Logic" for his thought process.
junglejuice
quote:
Originally posted by tsmith1315


Reminds me of the first shop manager I had to work under.

A kid comes in and wants to put 4 8" woofers into his compact station wagon. I help him choose 8" Pyle Drivers based on his budget. I designed the box based on T/S parameters and start cutting the wood...

'Redneck of the Century' says "That box ain't big enough for 4 8's." (I can talk bad about Rednecks because I'm one, too. See my profile if you don't believe me.)

Me: "Actually it's exactly what they need. I calculated the size based on the speaker's T/S parameters, and they tell you what that particular speaker needs."

Him: "NO. That box is too small. You need a DEEP box for DEEP bass."

How silly of me.

So, I walked away and hand the job over to Mr. Brilliance who built the box 3 times as large as needed.

When done, he fires it up and the Pyles sound like garbage. He replaces them with M&M's at about twice the price, which coincidentally need a larger box and they sound much better.

Him: "See, I keep telling ya'll those Pyles ain't worth nuthin. I don't know why you keep sellin' 'em."

So that day I learned that you need a deep box for deep bass and M&M's were better than Pyles. And here I was taking physics classes to learn about this stuff.

Which inspired me to coin the phrase "Redneck Logic" for his thought process.


Now why would you want to do something properly. Just guess and if it doesn't work the way it should blame the equipment....
ßart West-VL.
quote:
Originally posted by tsmith1315
...Him: "See, I keep telling ya'll those Pyles ain't worth nuthin. I don't know why you keep sellin' 'em."
I love that language. :) Don't know if I like his logics though ...:cannotbe:
ppia600
12v DC at the rated wattage would fry the heck out of the sub's coil. Otherwise yeah, ac outlet at 120v and let it play for a few minutes not in a box. Maybe spray the spider before with a duster can to make it cold and brittle so it will obliterate itself, before the power signal of death. Be prepared for a ciruit breaker to trip if the coil somehow shorts or the tinsels burn and touch.
Brett
quote:
Originally posted by boxcustom
I would like to destroy a subwoofer.
C4.

This should be law for any doof-doof boy that disturbs my sleep.
wg_ski
quote:
Originally posted by Brett
C4.

This should be law for any doof-doof boy that disturbs my sleep.


Oooohhhh, I'd love to pull up to one of those boom cars at a stop light one day - with a flat bed truck and a stack of LABHORNS. What kind of music you think I ought to use? I've got some really good recordings of pipe organ....
sousmielie
If you have 3 subs you can make a delto or star connection and blow them on 3-phase...:hot:
wg_ski
3-phase -

There is only one problem with that theory. The phases sum to zero, so in the far field it won't be loud enough!
whoandcar
You must sum the squares of each fase, indeed, and that is a DC!
And remember that sousmielie sugested using three subs.
Brett
quote:
Originally posted by wg_ski



Oooohhhh, I'd love to pull up to one of those boom cars at a stop light one day - with a flat bed truck and a stack of LABHORNS. What kind of music you think I ought to use? I've got some really good recordings of pipe organ....
Add some really bad PA speaker to make it fullrange, then blast along with some bagpipes played by a beginner, and a bass drum played by someone with no sense of rythum.
Oh, hang on, that sounds like a lot of rap and drip-hop.
EnvisionAudio
quote:
Originally posted by ppia600
12v DC at the rated wattage would fry the heck out of the sub's coil.

12VDC at the rated wattage....?

Think about that for a second, please. :rolleyes:
theAnonymous1
quote:
Originally posted by EnvisionAudio


12VDC at the rated wattage....?

Think about that for a second, please. :rolleyes:

12V / 1R = 12A :dodgy:

12V x 12A = 144W :whazzat:

But how long could the voice coil withstand 144W of dissipation?
wg_ski
quote:
Originally posted by theAnonymous1

But how long could the voice coil withstand 144W of dissipation?

A long time, for any driver with a 3" or more VC. And after about 10 minutes, the temp will have reached about 200C, doubling the VC's resistance to 2 ohms, and it now only has to deal with 72 watts of heat. It can take that a lot longer than the battery can supply it.

Need more cowbell, er... voltage.
N-Channel
(Remember the opening scene from "Back to the Future"?)

I have the ultimate solution: 1.21 Giga-watts! Get four or eight flux-capacitors in a series-parallel arrangement- that should do the trick! I'd get them rated at at least 5.6 space-time constants, each (for quicker travel).

:rofl:

Steve
valterdaw
quote:
Originally posted by tsmith1315

...
So that day I learned that you need a deep box for deep bass and M&M's were better than Pyles. And here I was taking physics classes to learn about this stuff.
...




:D :D :D Thank you for the laugh!
ppia600
quote:
Originally posted by EnvisionAudio


12VDC at the rated wattage....?

Think about that for a second, please. :rolleyes:

quote:
Originally posted by theAnonymous1


12V / 1R = 12A :dodgy:

12V x 12A = 144W :whazzat:

But how long could the voice coil withstand 144W of dissipation?

Well not thinking that the woofer is going to dissipate a specific wattage at 12vdc I was considering the fact that the woofer will not be moving and therefore won't be able to dissipate the heat. It will burn. They are designed to handle their rated power while moving/circulating air. Now maybe 12vdc won't generate much wattage at 4ohms????
ppia600
Actually I've got a clarion 10" sub with an aluminum cone. I'm going to hook it up to a 12v supply that can only supply about 6amps. I'm tired of looking at it anyway, lol. I wonder how long it will hold up... possibly forever from what I'm hearing here. (walks off to find the power supply)

hooked up at 10:12, and only drawing about 3.5amps at 12v

10:36 and stinking but holding on
ppia600
Well apparently 36.something watts isn't enough to destroy a 150watt subwoofer, lol. Stinks like a biatch though. It is REALLY hot, I wonder if the surround or spider will give out?

10:54 and still alive

11:02 and still kicking. My room is really stinking so I'm going to have to disconnect. At this rate unless the heat shortens the life of the epoxy and causes it to break down quickly I would have to assume the woofer would last indefinately at 36 watts. You guys will have to excuse me, it was kind of late, lol.
So my other suggestion of spraying the spider with canned air to freeze it and playing it with the ac wall outlet would probably be the best bet.
wg_ski
When I was first breaking in a pair of 12" Dayton S2's in my truck system, they stunk to high heaven at high volume. 400 real watt (2000 watt advertised) amplifier, bridged at 4 ohms. About the time the bass started getting loose from the Qts rise, it would smell up the cabin. Yes, that was clipping the **** out of the amp. After a few times, it quit smelling - presumably the volitiles in the adhesives finished boiling off. It never hurt a thing.


There is also a heck of a difference between a 400 watt sub with a 3" VC and a 150 watter. Hit a brand new 400 watt sub with 400 watts of music (you will need several kW to keep it clean) and it will smell for a while, too.
yesterdaysyouth
last time i dropped 120v across a speaker coil, it launched the vc out of the gap and on top of the pole piece... of course then it welded iteslf there and never moved again...

that's 150% bad, i think!
Nordic
tried a bit of DC over the VC? like a 9v battery...?
wg_ski
quote:
Originally posted by yesterdaysyouth
last time i dropped 120v across a speaker coil, it launched the vc out of the gap and on top of the pole piece...


200 watts a channel will do that. In my destructive college dorm days, we were seeing how far we could launch ping pong balls with an unhoused 12" speaker, and amp and a microphone. Came to an end when the VC got stuck outside the gap. It's not too good for the mike, either.
EWorkshop1708
build a big DIY amp with real watts and play it loud until the voice coil burns out
John Delmo
Connecting to AC is not a good idea. :rolleyes:
EWorkshop1708
Just burning up a speaker IMO = boring.

It's more fun to use a big amp maxed out to kill a speaker.

I just killed an old thrown-away 3W 4 inch full range by giving it 100W RMS. It played for a short while, started to smell, then it quit because the coil came unglued from the former and glued itself to the pole piece when it broke open.

If you had a good 300W+ or more of RMS power, that sub probably wouldn't last long. Especially if you clip the amp hard since the max watts becomes the RMS under full distortion. That would be over 600W of coil cooking power. :hot:
mandude
Don't dryer outlets (you know, for your clothes dryer) typcially have 220V output?
whoandcar
I'm a little confused...
DIY means Do It Yourself, or Destroy It Yourself???
despotic931
quote:
Originally posted by mandude
Don't dryer outlets (you know, for your clothes dryer) typcially have 220V output?


Yes, but its done with three conductors, one is a ground, and two positives (each rated at 120V)
AndrewT
quote:
Originally posted by despotic931
but its done with three conductors, one is a ground, and two positives (each rated at 120V)
No.
It's done with two phases 180degrees apart to give 220Vac across the two live poles.
The third wire acts as Safety Earth (ground) just like a normal three wire installation.
Dan2
my friend reversed his pick-up over a bass amp, that worked quite well at destroying the speaker, and the box. amazingly the built in amp survived, with a broken pot being the only damage to it!

as for the pick-up... well the amp fell out the back while he was reversing down a hill. when he stopped the box was already under the diff. so he pulled up the hand brake and let go of the footbrake.

the handbrake doesn't work when the back wheels are in the air :whazzat: :bawling:

trees work well though:bawling: :bawling:
cumesoftware
quote:
Originally posted by pinkmouse
Fraud is a criminal offense in most countries. Oh, and what makes you think they won't check? Every damaged driver that I see gets taken apart either for QA purposes, sheer curiosity, or both.
Did you considered that the OP is being frauded by the supplier. It is quite evident that the subwoofer is unserviceable since day one.
quote:
Originally posted by ppia600
Well not thinking that the woofer is going to dissipate a specific wattage at 12vdc I was considering the fact that the woofer will not be moving and therefore won't be able to dissipate the heat. It will burn. They are designed to handle their rated power while moving/circulating air. Now maybe 12vdc won't generate much wattage at 4ohms????
The woofer is not a motor. It might not burn if connected to 12VDC. However, it might detach with a quite evident damage to the cone, which is what the OP doesn't want.
ßart West-VL.
quote:
Originally posted by AndrewT
No.
It's done with two phases 180degrees apart to give 220Vac across the two live poles.
The third wire acts as Safety Earth (ground) just like a normal three wire installation.
Not 180° but 120°.

B.
mandude
He's talking about 180 degrees vs 120 volts. 180 degrees refers to phase shift, meaning the two signals are perfectly out of phase.
ßart West-VL.
I assume he's talking about a three phase system where two of the phases are used to get 220V. So they would be only 120° apart since a three phase systems:
360°/3=120°
AndrewT
but it's a single phase transformer with two outputs, each is out of phase with the other. i.e. 180degrees.
ßart West-VL.
OFF TOPIC: (sorry)

aha, I see. I'm curious to why a dryer that works at 120V needs a 220V output though. Here in Belgium there is a total different system. Industrial dryers work at 3~380Vac. At home it's at 1~230Vac

ON TOPIC:
To destroy the sub: Send it to me, I have 3~380Vac!! LOL

I wonder what would happen if you put a large balast in series with the woofer...
junglejuice
It would be 120 degrees as it would be 2 of 3 available phases like the rest of the world only the voltages and the frequency change, we have 240v single phase and 415v 3 phase here...
AndrewT
quote:
Originally posted by mandude
Don't dryer outlets (you know, for your clothes dryer) typcially have 220V output?

quote:
Originally posted by despotic931



Yes, but its done with three conductors, one is a ground, and two positives (each rated at 120V)

quote:
Originally posted by junglejuice
It would be 120 degrees as it would be 2 of 3 available phases like the rest of the world only the voltages and the frequency change, we have 240v single phase and 415v 3 phase here...
they are both in the US.
they do not have 220/240Vac like the rest of us.
boxcustom
I found this video on utube. This is the Answer to my needs! Thanks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjAOF3ixkyM

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