| ACD |
Some have shown interest in a group buy for a PSU board in the LYNX Amp PCB group buy here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...898#post1422898
Thanks to Carl for taking care of that thread ;)
Those who are interested can participate here.
I will make the layout and have the PCB's made according to what's decided here in this thread.
The PSU Board should be universal and fitt all common diy Power Amps.
Please come with your suggestions.....
1. What type of rectifier diodes?
2. Should power caps be on the PCB?
If so, what type and how many uF?
3. Connections?
Let the ideas flow ;) |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
Some have shown interest in a group buy for a PSU board in the LYNX Amp PCB group buy here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...898#post1422898
Thanks to Carl for taking care of that thread ;)
Those who are interested can participate here.
I will make the layout and have the PCB's made according to what's decided here in this thread.
The PSU Board should be universal and fitt all common diy Power Amps.
Please come with your suggestions.....
1. What type of rectifier diodes?
2. Should power caps be on the PCB?
If so, what type and how many uF?
3. Connections?
Let the ideas flow ;) |
Ok, here is some suggestions:
1: TO220 single diodes with room for SK104 heatsinks.
2: Yes, please. At least room for 4 pcs 10mm snapins. Minimum Dia 35mm.
Preferrably, room for 6 pcs, and a filmbypass would also be nice.
3: Pads to make a CRC supply, say provision for 5 pcs 3 watters per rail (Can be jumpered if not wanted). Maybe a bleeder resistor would be nice also, say one 3 watter 3,3K resistor.
It would also be nice to have 2mm connections for making a CLC supply.
5mm spacing for all AC/DC connections for terminalblocks.
Number of GND connections in the DC end: 4. 4 would add great flexibilty if you would use one supply for 2 channels and wanted easy connection of the speaker GND's.
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks steenoe ;)
No problems so far....
Will make a schematich and post here later this weekend, so we have something to work from ;) |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Steenoe,
Why not the three terminal rectifier diodes like the MUR3020/3060? I think those would be a good idea also.
The rest of it sounds good. Maybe a snap off portion to use as a regulator section for the front end of the amp? That would make it truely universal and maybe help sell more of them.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Thanks for the post. I agree with all of the above and would like to include the following.
1. Resistor and LED on board for each rail is a nice touch.
2. Connection points for AC and DC should be screwdriver terminals - the nice heavy three way types are good or faston terminals.
3. I would allow at least 4 off 35mm Diameter snap in caps per rail which would allow over 100,000uF per rail for class A amps.
4 Provision on the board for CRC or CLC. Pads on board for at least 4 resistors (3 watt) in each rail and then provision for terminals for off board air core inductors.
5. Pads for at least 10 watt bleeder resistor to ground for each rail.
6. Provision for film bypass caps for the large electro caps.
7. Diodes mentioned above are both good, but also with provision on board for parallel caps on each diode for suppression.
8. Fully loaded board with large caps will be heavy,so tracks should be as wide as possible for the rails and the board should be made from thicker fibreglass than normal.
These are my thoughts for now.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi again Jan.
Based on all of the above thoughts, let me express my interest here for at least 10 of these PSU boards.
This would be based on final size and final costs.
regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
I see that I forgot to write in the first post, that this is only an interest check, and there are no obligation before layout and price are known ;)
Thanks to all. I find many of your ideas very good but please keep in mind, that this PCB will be large if all ideas are incoorporated......
There are no problem having this made in thicker boards with thicker copper. Price will just be higher!
steenoe and Gary S;
Please specify needed area per Rail for CRC, pad hole size etc. |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Jan,
I don't think the larger size and a little more cost will be a problem, as long as this board solves some of the deficiencies of some of the other PS PCB's available.
I for one would be interested in 6-10 of them, as long as they had all of the features that have been brought up.
I think the needed area per rail for the resistors of the CRC section should be enough for 4-5 three watters per rail. I believe that would suit most peoples needs. In the space between them there might be room to fit a bleeder resistor for each rail. That way there shouldn't be any wasted board space.
An idea for the layout could be something like CLCCRC, with 2mm connections for the inductor. Maybe include a linked set of pads for a jumper, or some could use multiple resistors in that area for CRCCRC.
On the capacitor mounts, we could use the standard 10mm snapin mount designed for 35mm, but with just enough room for 40mm diameter caps and linked 7.5 or 5mm pads for underboard bypass caps to save space if needed.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
I agree with Landoctor's thoughts. As you mention you want to do this board as a universal PSU board, and a lot of people on this forum are leaning toward class A amps, then a lot of room will need to be allowed for a lot of capacitance for snap in caps.
For people building class AB amps, then they do not have to load all capacitor positions. Amps of this size need plenty of chassis space, which is usually dictated by the size of heatsinking required (especially for pure class A designs), then the PSU board size will be not normally a problem.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
CRC/CLCCRC etc.
Most simple way would be to make an area only of pads in two or three different sizes, so people can make what kind of CRC/CLC they wants........
Decoupling/bypass caps
There will be pads for decoupling caps across each rectifier diode, and across all big PSU caps (size LxW: 7.5x4.5mm/pad distance 5mm)
PSU Caps
This will be space for 40mm diameter caps (snap-in) with 10, 7.5 and 5 mm pad distance. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Sounds good so far, make the design as flexible as possible and you will cover all bases. That way people can load what they like, more universal approach, more interest, more sales.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Hi gary s
Yes also my idea ;)
I will post the first design later today.
Then we can take it from there :) |
|
|
| ACD |
First schematic layout.
Please comment.
Also please define how large "playground" are needed for CRC/CLCCRC........ |
|
|
| peranders |
Jan, why don't you have the ground at the left from the transformers? You may assume two separate windings or a centertap transformer.
Place the diodes so you can mount them directly at the mounting plate.
http://groundsound.com/psu12sa.html check out the diode bridge. I have seen an another board with TO247 diodes, can't remember where. :scratch:
|
|
|
| ACD |
Hi peranders :)
It connects to the Ground at the left (star Ground) ;)
I should have drawn it or made a note...... :angel: |
|
|
| peranders |
| Isn't it more practical to have the star ground but have the transformer connections at the left? |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Thanks for posting an initial circuit. My thoughts are as follows:
1. The ground bus should also have pads or terminal block at left of PCB near the AC secondary connection to allow for the 1 or 2 wires from the transformer secondary centre tap winding.
2. You mention the diodes as being TO220 devices - try and incorporate pads for larger TO247/TO3P plastic pack devices as well.
3. The pads for the resistors or inductors for CLC or CRC should be between capacitors C15/C9 and C16/C10. Or you can take it 1 step further and have a second set of pads for CRCRC or CLCLC or CLCRC combinations.
4. Bleeder resistors and indication LEDS should be at DC output.
5. Tracks on PCB for +VDC, GND and -VDC should be as large as possible.
6. For main electrolytic bypass caps C13,C14,C15,C16,C17,C18,C19 and C20 allow for multi pads so people can use their favourite type of film caps - don't just allow 5mm pads.
These are my thoughts so far. Keep up the good work.
Best Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
| I look into it after work :) |
|
|
| steenoe |
With all those great ideas comming in, this could easily turn out to be a great design.
The best place for the "playground" is in the middle of the 'lytic bank. Here is a quick and dirty schematic of what I had in mind initially. Filmbypass caps after the last electrolytic only, is good enough. You can make room for dual diodes also, if you like. Its just a little more complicated to lay out the board. In any case, each rectifierdiode needs its own heatsink, which is best isolated from the rest of the circuit.
The parts in upper left is for LED indication and the 2 parts in the box, is optional if you would like the LED to have its own supply. I didnt bother to connect them.
The R's in the CRC configuration are standard 3 watters with a little extra room. I didnt measure the needed space, but I will do that when I get home. The inductor solder pads need to be with 2mm hole dia at least.
The powertracks should be as big as possible, meaning more or less to fill the board with Cu;)
Here is another suggestion that will add even more flexibilty. Wouldnt it be nice with a simple LM317/337 supply on the board also?
It would be handy for use with active crossovers and subwoofer controllers amongst other things.
:) |
|
|
| steenoe |
Just in case;) max voltage difference for the LM's to dispose off, is approx 40 volts, so the regulated supply is usefull only for unreg. rails up to about just over 50V (Assuming you want +/-15V). The LM's will need a heatsink like the diodes. Values are approximate.
:) |
|
|
| housing |
| quote: | Originally posted by gary s
Hi Jan
2. You mention the diodes as being TO220 devices - try and incorporate pads for larger TO247/TO3P plastic pack devices as well.
Best Regards
Gary.. |
Please take care of the 3 leg devices like my HFA50PA60C or MUR3060CT also.
:D :D :D |
|
|
| ACD |
| Maybe I should just make a Breadboard :D |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by housing
Please take care of the 3 leg devices like my HFA50PA60C or MUR3060CT also.
:D :D :D |
There is no need to be so worried about not being able to use the TO247 devices. The TO220, 15A single diodes are capable of feeding a 100 watt class A amp;)
ACD, feel free to filter out whatever you feel like:)
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks steenoe ;)
I hope to post updated schematic tomorrow :) |
|
|
| ACD |
Ok then... Not tomorrow yet however ;)
I haven't added additional circuits suggested by steenoe, as I think we have to discuss the options first;
Do we want a +/-12-15V regulator circuit for driving eg. active crossovers, or should we make a separate supply for the VAS stage ?
Happy discussing :D |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Jan,
That is what I suggested a few days ago. It would be nice to have a snap off section for regulators for the VAS stage.
It could be used for either the VAS stage, or active circuitry like crossovers, etc. depending on how it was configured.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| ACD |
By steenoe:| quote: | | Just in case max voltage difference for the LM's to dispose off, is approx 40 volts, so the regulated supply is usefull only for unreg. rails up to about just over 50V (Assuming you want +/-15V). |
Many may want to use higher rails.....
I know of peoples that run the LYNX at +/-90VDC with 16 pairs of output devices ;)
How can we best achieve both ?? |
|
|
| Nordic |
| I like more modular approach... It all looked nice till I saw you also include the bridge in the PSU... Which I'm sure suits the needs of others just fine... I use metal case bridges on the heatsink. |
|
|
| ACD |
Nordic;
The rectifier diodes has been there from the beginning ;) |
|
|
| Nordic |
| That'll teach me to read from the end, but I find it still illustrates my desire for modular designs. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Good work. Your circuit in post #26 is fine by me. Exactly what I want. After all you started by talking about a PSU for a power amp.
But by all means to make it more universal, you can add other regulator circuits if you wish. Prospective users of this board can choose to load what compnents they need for their intended application.
Regards
Gary. |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks Gary ;)
However no need to make some extra regulator circuit unless it's demanded/needed....... :) |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
Thanks Gary ;)
However no need to make some extra regulator circuit unless it's demanded/needed....... :) |
By all means... I didnt excactly ask for anything! I just threw out ideas when they were asked for...:cool:
:) |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by Nordic
That'll teach me to read from the end, but I find it still illustrates my desire for modular designs. |
I have no idea, what a post like that is supposed to mean??
:cool: |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
If you do the PCB design as per the circuit in post #26, then that is all I need for a perfectly acceptable power amp PSU.
You can count me in for at least 10 of these boards.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Besides the 5mm terminal blocks for connection to the PCB, I will ad pads for direct wire soldering.
Suggestions for pad/hole size please ;) |
|
|
| peranders |
| Spade or lug connectors is also good. Do you know what I mean? Those blue things in the picture. |
|
|
| ACD |
I know them, peranders ;)
I'll also make pads for those :) |
|
|
| ACD |
Normally I hate to quote my self ;) | quote: | Besides the 5mm terminal blocks for connection to the PCB, I will ad pads for direct wire soldering.
Suggestions for pad/hole size please |
Suggestions please :) |
|
|
| peranders |
| 2.5 sqmm wire would be good, but it's better if you'll do the pads "SMD". Better to skip the holes and solder the wires directly on the surface. |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks peranders ;)
I'll make it SMD type :)
Do you have any drawing with measurements for the lugs in your picture..... I don't have them in my component library |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Why is it better to solder the wires to the surface of a pad, rather than through a hole on the PCB? It seems like it would be a stronger and more complete connection with a plated through hole.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| ACD |
| quote: | | Why is it better to solder the wires to the surface of a pad, rather than through a hole on the PCB? It seems like it would be a stronger and more complete connection with a plated through hole. |
Because if you make a large "SMD" pad, the solder connection between the wire and PCB has greater area than if wire is soldered at a hole through pad.....
Further more the "SMD" type pad better accepts all kind of wire sizes.....
Remember that this is not a "standard" commercial PSU, but has to adapt to all kind of wires at hand of fellowing diy'ers. |
|
|
| peranders |
| quote: | Originally posted by Landoctor
Why is it better to solder the wires to the surface of a pad, rather than through a hole on the PCB? It seems like it would be a stronger and more complete connection with a plated through hole. |
The abuse to the wire is less. You will most likely not get so much tin up under the insulation. I would recommend surface mounted thick wires. |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Thanks for the clarification Per-Anders and Jan. I didn't realize that.
I'll try that at home on a couple of things I am working on now.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Suggestions in above posts for wire connections to board are all good. You have covered terminal blocks, faston spade connectors and direct soldering. This will allow for all to use their favourite termination method.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi again Jan.
One other suggestion if I may. It would be nice to have on board fusing for the incoming AC secondary supply and outgoing +/- DC supplies.
There are nice PCB mount shrouded 10 amp fuse holders around these days.
Just a thought.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Gary (and others)
How about this type from Schurter?
Accepts both 5x20 and 6.3x32mm 10A fuses and are avaiable from RS Components ? |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
Gary (and others)
How about this type from Schurter?
Accepts both 5x20 and 6.3x32mm 10A fuses and are avaiable from RS Components ? |
Those look good:) Please only at the AC! Its a bad idea to have fuses on the DC lines, soundwise.
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
steenoe;
I agree, but they are nice to have some times.
You can just short circuit the DC fuses with jumpers/wires.... |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
steenoe;
I agree, but they are nice to have some times.
You can just short circuit the DC fuses with jumpers/wires.... |
Right you are:) Other than that, its a good solid PSU design, by now;)
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
So do I ;)
Right now I'm trying to make the layout....
It's gonna be a quite large PCB though (as to the space reserved to CRC etc....)
Would the best layout be a long PCB suitet to be fitted a long the heat sinked sides of the cabinet ? |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
So do I ;)
Right now I'm trying to make the layout....
It's gonna be a quite large PCB though (as to the space reserved to CRC etc....)
Would the best layout be a long PCB suitet to be fitted a long the heat sinked sides of the cabinet ? |
It will be quite biggish, in any case. What Dia do you have in mind for the 'lytic's? A Pansonic TSUP 33,000uF 50V is 35mm.. If you want to use 100V 'lytic's, maan...... :D The board size will be huge.
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
As stated the caps are 40mm in diameter :bigeyes:
And the space for CRC has room for 10W several resistors :eek:
And the bleeder resistors are also 10W :cannotbe:
Size of components are mentioned in the last schem I posted ;)
(Maybe the solution is to make a three storage high amp with a view :D ) |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
As stated the caps are 40mm in diameter :bigeyes:
And the space for CRC has room for 10W several resistors :eek:
And the bleeder resistors are also 10W :cannotbe:
Size of components are mentioned in the last schem I posted ;)
(Maybe the solution is to make a three storage high amp with a view :D ) |
40mm is good enough for a large PSU. 10W resistors are not really needed. I think that several 3 watters in parrallel takes up less space? 5 pcs in parrallel is perfectly allright. The bleeder also only needs to be 3 watt's at eg 3.3K. |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks Steenoe ;)
But I have to have it verified by the other interested persons in this thread :) |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan.
You are doing well. I agree with Steenoe, caps up to 40mm dia will allow for a very stiff DC supply particularly if you choose to load all 4 of them per rail.
The fuseholder you specify is good as it allows 20mm and bigger fuselinks. I would still like to see these on AC and DC rails.
The CRC resistor only needs to be 3 watt in size but as Steenoe says allow for 5 of these. See Nelson Pass's PSU designs where he might use 5 off 1 ohm 3watt resistors in parallel to give 0.2 ohms at 15 watt capacity.
Also the bleeder resistor only needs to be 3 or 5 watt. Even with Steenoe's example of 3k3 resistor across a fairly high DC supply of 75 volts = 1.7 watts diss. Stand resistor 5mm clear of board and it will be OK.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi again Jan.
Forgot to comment on size/shape of PSU board.
I would be happy with the board long and narrow ,say 90mm or so wide to accomodate the 40mm caps and then however long it ends up to fit all other components.
I tend to build mono block power amps and always have plenty of room which is usually dependent on heatsink length especially for high bias class A designs.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| Landoctor |
I think the three to five watt resistors is plenty.
I think the board layout is nice. Does the final version accommodate four or six 40mm caps?
As far as the layout, I could go either way. Although I would kind of prefer a squarish board so it will utilize the center of the chassis next to the toroid more efficiently. A long board would probably work also, but would be less efficient in terms of space utilization.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan.
Board shape is not really an issue for me, as I said my amps are usually large anyway.
I will be happy what ever shape you make it, circuit is more important for me. Incorporate all ideas mentioned so far and you will have a universal psu board suitable for all amps talked about here on diyAudio forum.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| RyanW |
Design looks good.
Count me in for 6-10... depending on price |
|
|
| gary s |
OK, time for all the myriad of amp builders out there who need an elegant solution to their power supply needs to show their interest here.
Using a board like this will tidy up their chasis designs by getting rid of a lot of unsightly wiring, apart from saving time and effort drilling holes to mount caps, diode bridges etc..
Let Jan know how many boards he should look at getting built by registering your interest in this thread. This is a great design to have some spares on hand for the next amp that will always come along. More boards ordered, the cheaper they will be.
I am in for at least 10 PSU boards.
Hope you don't mind the plug for you Jan as you are doing everyone a favour here as far as I can see.
Cheers
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Landoctor;
As to the last schem posted, it has 8 40mm caps but with fuses for both AC and DC.
Gary;
No problems ;)
All;
I'll change the resistors from 10 to 5W, and try to squese the size of the PCB.
I'll post updated schem later to day ;)
BTW: I'll properly take up to 20 boards depending on price :) |
|
|
| ACD |
Ok......
First try to make a long narrow PCB (only silk screen shown as no tracks have been routed)
Size: 350x90mm :bigeyes:
Next to try is a wider and shorter board ;) |
|
|
| steenoe |
| quote: | Originally posted by ACD
Ok......
First try to make a long narrow PCB (only silk screen shown as no tracks have been routed)
Size: 350x90mm :bigeyes:
Next to try is a wider and shorter board ;) |
Thats a long board. Could easily spell trouble, fitting two of those in a chassis, leaving room for trafo's in one end, and other stuff in the other... But its pretty slim at 90mm's
:) |
|
|
| peranders |
| This PSU board is starting to look as an overkill, like my style (I never do anything simple) :) The board is getting long... |
|
|
| ACD |
steenoe;
I also like the slim design, but 350mm in lenght :eek:
peranders;
Yes! I kind of agree with the overkill statement ;) |
|
|
| ROVSING |
How about taking the big caps out and put them on the side on a PCB evt 1 "sliced" PCB wih big caps on one side and the rest on the other side that would reduce the length to half but make it double wide with possibility to stack PCB's if necessary.
And then make some easy way to connect PCB's if splitted up in two pieces.
Just a Thought.
:) |
|
|
| ACD |
ROVSING;
Could be a good idea ;) |
|
|
| RyanW |
ACD,
My personal opinion... The best thing to do at this point is to build what you think is good. Any minor "improvements" at this stage are entirely subjective... Plenty of arguments for skinny or fat, etc... Maximum happiness will result from more building and less squabbling.
The board looks excellent as you have presented it and it will meet the requirements of 90% of all DIY builders. Everyone has personal motivations for one particular item or another, but at the end of the day, all we need is a place to mount a bank of caps and 4 diodes... the rest is details.
Just my two cents as a novice constructor. (I know I'm missing a few points) |
|
|
| ACD |
| I have had my "thinking hat" on the last days, and think that if the "playground for CRC" is removed from the layout (but still with possibillity for connecting such to the PCB), I think it could be shortend down to 30 cm. in lenght........ |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Jan,
I believe the CRC/CLC area is a very useful part of this design. I really think it makes it more useful than some of the other designs around here.
What about making the cap section "stackable" with standoffs or something? |
|
|
| ACD |
| quote: | | What about making the cap section "stackable" with standoffs or something? |
I'm not quite sure what you suggest ? |
|
|
| tinitus |
| Hi, I am sure he means to have supply board on top of the amp board...which means they need to have same size and mounting holes in the same place |
|
|
| Landoctor |
Jan,
I was just thinking that maybe the PSU board could be split in half so it could be stacked on each other with standoffs. That way we could still have all of the features you included, while taking up less space.
Do you think something like that is doable?
I saw another user on here do something like that with his power supply and output board.
Just trying to come up with a creative solution so that it will work out.
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| tinitus |
Ahh, ok, modular supply
Well, it makes sense, in some way
In that case, may I suggest to make the supply board "breakable"...then there would be 3 options
1. full supply
2. "half" supply
3. Stacking |
|
|
| ACD |
Thanks for your inputs :)
I have just made a quick layout to see the app. size of layout.
Overall size will the be app. 19x18cm if not stacked.
If stacked it will de 19x9cm.
Please note that interconnection are not added yet, as this was just a test.......
Please comment ;) |
|
|
| Landoctor |
That really makes the boards much more manageable in my opinion. Although I don't see what the "path" would be. It seems like it would make a couple of trips back and forth between the halfs.
Maybe I just need to see it again in the morning. ;)
Thanks,
Donovan |
|
|
| ROVSING |
[
ve just made a quick layout to see the app. size of layout.
Overall size will the be app. 19x18cm if not stacked.
If stacked it will de 19x9cm.
Please note that interconnection are not added yet, as this was just a test.......
Very nice layout
;) |
|
|
| ACD |
ROVSING;
I kind of like it, so I will work a bit more on it ;) |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
You are doing good work. As long as the electrical design remains the same, it does not worry me at all what shape and size the PSU board ends up.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
| I hope to post the layout with connectors later today :) |
|
|
| ACD |
Hi all,
Just made a schem that shows one possible way for the interconnections between the boards in the "Stack" version layout. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
That looks good as far as the circuit is concerned, I cannot see any errors.
Are you going to just have solder pads on each board to solder the wire jumpers between boards or will you also have terminal blocks like Con 1 to Con 5 for these connections.
Do you have any idea of the physical board size for this design and will they both be the same size.
If they are to stack on top of each other , allow for holes in boards to take screws or some form of spacers to physically support boards. Also watch how high the boards will be fitted with large caps and diode heatsinks if stacked, as some people's chassis designs may not be high enough.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Hi Gary;
You can see the temporary layout in post 79.
I intend to fitt the boards with both terminal blocks and Fastons. for ALL connections, also interconnections.....
We have the choice between the long pcb in post 66 (lenght 35 cm!!!!), and the modular in post 79. The advantage of the last layout is that it can either be stacked or placed side by side (and the board with caps can be fitted in a 90 degree angle to lower the hight).
I think that the options of the last version would fitt most builder best........ |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
Thanks for the reply, sorry I missed the layout in post 79. I agree that this is a good solution for all builders.
I like your work so far.
As I said before I will take at least 10 of these for current projects and future ones.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
| I will work on the layout later today ;) |
|
|
| ACD |
Sad to inform you all, that the stackable solution as shown in my schematic in post 79 doesn't seem to be very practical when layouted.... Connectors everywhere for forth and back...
A solution could be just to make the long version in post 66 "breakable" in the middle, so you can divide this in 2 and either stack them or place them side by side..... |
|
|
| ACD |
While waiting for some comments, I made a test layout of the Rectifier/Cap board without onboard CRC, but with possibillity for external CRC circuits.
Lenght then redused to 29.5 mm :) |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
I also have no problem with this longer board. My only comment would be that you could probably fit in three off 3watt CRC resistors in the space you have shown for each rail on the PCB.
If people do not want to use the resistors, they can simply link them out, or wire in an external off board inductor for those using CLC filter.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
Gary;
Yes! There is room for three 3W resistors if CRC connectors are removed....
However then no room for proper connection to external circuits. |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan.
Perhaps you can have pads for the CRC resistors on the board and then another 2 pads to connect an external inductor. Forget about connectors here. Just my thoughts.
Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
| I will post a layout later when I'm home from work ;) |
|
|
| ACD |
Lastest edition ;)
I have added pads for RCL what ever ........
If there is interest for this layout I will add som more pads in the filter area and make the tracks........ |
|
|
| gary s |
Hi Jan
This looks good to me. You have all bases covered from what you have shown here. Now all you need to do is add some nice heavy tracks for a stiff low impedance power supply that will suit all class A and A/B amp designs from 10 watts to 500 watts per channel
Good work, and I am sure you should get good interest for this design.
Best Regards
Gary.. |
|
|
| ACD |
| Did a PCB temporary layout...... |
|
|
|
