| Spassgeneral |
I have got a pair of Fostex fe167, not fe167E!
would they match into chili as well? Or do I have to change the cabinet? I have almost finished my Olivias. Changs are very easy to build and look great.
TSPs:FE167
Impedance : 8 ohm
Minimum Frequency Response: 50Hz
Reproduction Frequency Response: fo - 22kHz
S.P.L. : 95dB/W (m)
Rated Input : 33W
Music Power : 65W
Fs : 50Hz
Re : 7.2 ohm
Qts : 0.33
Qms : 4.53
Qes : 0.36
Vas : 30.2 L
Xmax : 0.6mm (0.024 in)
The TSPs are not too different to these of the Fe167e, I think.
Is a double horn recommended, or woult a TQWT design a la Kings No2 or Metronome suite better?
thanks in advance |
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| Scottmoose |
| Should be fine. |
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| Spassgeneral |
thanks, Scott.
then chili will be my next project. |
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| Spassgeneral |
Which enclosure would be better:
chili or iris?
iris will be much harder to build, but I would if it is worth sonically. |
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| Scottmoose |
| Blunt answer is that I don't know. I haven't built either of them. The newer boxes should be better than the older range, but there's only one way to find out for certain. |
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| Spassgeneral |
there are too many enclosures for the fe167.
double horns: Iris, chili
Martin King's Project2 (which was my first intention)
Demetri
Metronome
I am sure the results will be compleely different.
My fullrange experience is limited to fe168ez rec, Martin King No.5, and untuned olivias.
I liked the mid-bas and midrange of the fe168ez very much. Hf extension was too limited, deep bass below 45hz not existent. Tey were able to reproduce details I never heard, neither with my sennheiser headphones. the soundstage was so three dimensional, that every detail could be well defined.
Kings No.5 was totally different. They played with much authority. Bass was very! deep, but not so accurate. Don't get me wrong, the bass was very clean, but not as exact as of the 168s. Voices were knife-sharp defined, Hf with well extension. The olivias are very delicate. They build a very three dimensional sound stage. though they are not broken in fully.
I like the authority of kings No.5, the detailed mid bass and mids of the 168ez recs, the reproduction of voices of Kings No.5, the detached sound of olivia that let You forget, that there are actually speakers in front of You.
So what will be the right solution for my FE167?
one thing is for sure, that only a single driver solution is to be considered.
I know, these are three wishes at once.
nothing to be left desired.
thanks in advance for your opinions. |
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| hm |
Hello,
do you know my solution
POSAUNE
a double horn,
and because 0,6 mm is not
enough for 0,5 Watt impuls,
take two, one invers. |
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| Spassgeneral |
So,
here they are.
The first pair of kimChi, I think.
The cutted curves look pretty good.
everything in the right angle
the inner corners sealed with much glue
damn, I cutted the angle at the wrong side :dead:
I glued the cutted piece and made the angle at the right side.
first run.
I lined left, back and bottom of the chamber with some velt.
They are not completely sealed so far. But they sound very promising. the mids and hights are incredible. sound is a bit thin at the lower end. Will be better, when the sides are glued. I did not, because I have to buy sand for the caves first.
What about bsc? I think thy have to be correctet only at the very lower end beneath 300 hz ? . May be bs is not so dramatic because the 'front horn' beams the lf?
any opinions?
thanks in advance. |
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| Scottmoose |
Oooh! Looking good there!
BSC? None needed. The radiation from both sides of the driver is focused so it's not an issue.
I'd give them a pair of terminal panels though, rather than running the wire out of the mouth. It doesn't do the looks any favours at all, & it interferes with the vent / horn / waveguide (bit of all three) action. |
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| Spassgeneral |
No bsc at all,
then I have to wait until the sides are glued on and they are sealed.
Of course they will get binding posts.
I am thinking of putting wallpaper on them. I have seen some 'needles' that look great.:bigeyes:
It's called 'Rauhfaser', coloured and finished with clear coat.
other suggestions? |
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| Scottmoose |
| Wood veneer? Maybe some of that very thin self adhesive vinyl the fashion-conscious use to cover their old kitchen surfaces or parts of their cars with? |
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| Spassgeneral |
veneer...
hm...
no plastic-wood!
I like wood-look only if it's real wood.
It would be hard work to veneer these with genuine wood. |
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| Scottmoose |
I didn't mean fake wood. Veneer was one option. Vinyl was another. Comes in lots of different colours -black, orange, blue, red, white, even carbon fiber effect & so on. This sort of thing: http://stickers.signprint.co.uk/ind...x&cPath=197_269
Alternatively, you could paint them. There are lots of threads here with best information. The real key is that you must seal the MDF with an MDF sealer first before priming & use multiple coats at each stage. |
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| Spassgeneral |
painting is really difficult.
I have seen at my olivias. |
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| Scottmoose |
It's not that bad, but it does take practice & time. I've had decent results on pre-bought furniture (I'm the worlds worst cabinet builder -design? Yes. Build? No.).
The real trick is making sure you seal the material before any paint goes on. Basic stages are:
1) sand it back. With a mask on, of course.
2) Seal with a proper MDF sealant (follow the guide on the tin -they vary), paying particular attention to the ends, which suck the stuff up like a vampire.
3) Prime, sand back with ~600g, and repeat a few times. The more effort you put in at this stage, the better.
4) Apply top-coat, sand back with 600gr & getting finer with each successive coat, repeating as many times as necessary for the finish you're after. A cheap spray setup would cost less than trying to do this with cans, which in the UK at least cost an absolute fortune.
Alternatively, you could ask around the local local car painters & see if any of them would be willing to do it. Best if you seal & prime the cabinets yourself beforehand of course.
Final wild-card: come over all Victorian & indulge in a spot of découpage. Seal all the panels, cut up some attractive magazines, some reproduction newspapers or whatever, and stick them to the box. Then apply a couple of light layers of varnish. |
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| Bob Brines |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scottmoose
The real key is that you must seal the MDF with an MDF sealer first before priming & use multiple coats at each stage. |
Shellac!
Bob |
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| Spassgeneral |
here some new pictures.
fighting reflections inside the 'box'
I followed my own suggestion and wallpapered them.
then two coats of hi gloss black colour.
damn, the colour takes too long to dry. They will have to stay outsides over night :dead: cant handel them before tomorrow.
greets
vom Spassgeneral |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by Spassgeneral
here some new pictures.
fighting reflections inside the 'box'
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Any comments on that reflections tweak? I like it. Put some kind of mitten or something over the frame. What I didn't like was
lining the inside of the BIB on the divider panel up behind the driver.
Bib is on the operating table right now.
:smash: |
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| loninappleton |
Also going to use the tweak above on my Harvey.
I got some zip tie fasteners to secure the fabric. |
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| Alex from Oz |
| quote: | Originally posted by Spassgeneral
here some new pictures.
fighting reflections inside the 'box'
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G'day Spassgeneral,
I used poster putty (blu tack) over the whole magnet and on the legs.
You may want to consider 'filling' the void behind the front mouting plate with blu tack to stop it ringing. Try holding the driver by the magnet and flick the mounting plate with your fingernail...
Cheers,
Alex from Oz |
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| Spassgeneral |
thanks for the tip, Alex.
can someone explain me. what bluetac exactly is?
It is not very common in germany.
gereetz
vom Spassgeneral |
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| Scottmoose |
| Blu-tak = a re-usable semi adhesive putty people use for mounting posters on the wall & other such things. |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scottmoose
Blu-tak = a re-usable semi adhesive putty people use for mounting posters on the wall & other such things. |
I used rope caulk on my old RS 1197's around the basket.
Rope caulk is easy to work with because you can put it on with little
'sculpting' needed and remove if undesirable. |
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| Spassgeneral |
some more impressions.
with phase plug and very little poly behind the whizzer.
They sound great.
best sounding speaker I have ever owned!
there were
Quadral Montan MK IV :D
B&W DM 604 :rolleyes:
Infinity Kappa 90 renaissance :eek:
Fostex Fe168ez rec :devilr:
Martin King No.5 :devilr:
kimchi is very refined, natural, holographic....
pahse plug is mandatory with fe167!
greetz
vom Spassgeneral |
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| Scottmoose |
:) Glad you like them.
Out of interest, how do you find the LF? The alignment wasn't designed with ultimate extension in mind, so any feedback you can give would be valuable.
Regards
Scott
PS -I like the penguin. |
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| Spassgeneral |
It is very difficult for me to describe the sound, because english is not my first language.
I don't have the equipment to measure the output of the kimchis. But I have a test cd with sinus test-tones down to 20hz.
Kimchis output seems to have no loss down to 40hz.
37hz is still loud and clear. 34hz is still audible.
I am very satisfied with this. I am also satisfied with the extremely clean and dry bass.
You can hear every single note when acoustic bass is played. The only resonances you hear are not from the boxes but from the wooden instrument played by the musican.
very impressing! |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Alex from Oz
You may want to consider 'filling' the void behind the front mouting plate with blu tack to stop it ringing. Try holding the driver by the magnet and flick the mounting plate with your fingernail...
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Try grabbing the driver on either side. Try to twist the basket...
We have been using SR500 (latex paint-on marine damping compound) to fill the hollow space under the bezel with a solid. Damps and stiffens. Can get messy thou.
dave |
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| Gerrit Boers |
| quote: | Originally posted by Spassgeneral
thanks for the tip, Alex.
can someone explain me. what bluetac exactly is?
It is not very common in germany.
gereetz
vom Spassgeneral |
I used 'Plastic-fermit' (Nissen & Volk gmbh) duct seal to dampen my FE208S. It's available at Bauhaus stores. Great stuff, It sticks very well to metal and can be removed completely if the result is not as expected.. It is also very heavy. |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Gerrit Boers
duct seal |
I go thru a lot of that -- just bought 25 kg.
dave |
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