| neutron7 |
(and more importantly make my own cases and lots of other non hi-fi stuff as well :) )
I just put it on the bench i made for it. and tested it out on a small piece of aluminum.. holy!!! it will eat up the metal without a protest, and cut a 1mm thread in 2 passes!.
tomorrow i will try it on some titanium, the taig had major problem with it, but i managed to make some titanium pens anyways :) that last one took about 50 hours, but it was for a friend. (pens )
i put the dial indicator on the chuck. the needle does not move! i need a better indicator :) |
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| neutron7 |
heres the controls, everything has oil ports, very well made compared to 7x10 chinese lathe.
i got a cutoff bandsaw with it as well as a quick change tool post.
importing to Canada was a bit of a pain i had to get just the right customs broker. most were useless asses. i found a nice one and they put it through like a breeze!
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| BWRX |
| That is a sexy piece of equipment. Metal gives me wood ;) |
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| Geek |
Hi,
Congratulations!
When you get comfortable making nice aluminum knobs, let's discuss commercial supply ;)
Cheers! |
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| neutron7 |
| aluminium? are you sure you do not want titanium, soapstone, jade or exotic hardwood? |
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| karma |
| nice i wish i had the room for one;) |
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| neutron7 |
| heres some knobs i made today. that panel is 3 inches high and 1/2 thick. still very rough! |
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| mpmarino |
Nice-
I've got a '40s South Bend heavy 10 that I'm learning. Sure is nice to be able to make some things I couldn't before. I've got this cooking.... |
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| neutron7 |
| very nice! do you have a milling attachment on your lathe? i am trying to figure out how to add one, or just buy a mill :) |
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| mpmarino |
| I've got an older Taiwanese Bridgeport copy. The tooling is the hard part for sure $$$. |
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| Magura |
| quote: | Originally posted by mpmarino
I've got an older Taiwanese Bridgeport copy. The tooling is the hard part for sure $$$. |
What sort of tooling do you need?
Magura :) |
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| anatech |
Hi neutron7,
Oh man is that ever neat!!!
I'll have to ring you up. Knobs are always a problem. That and custom hardware. You could easily rig up machined posts for mounting a rubber suspension. Turntable bearings would be a snap too. Think nice old Thorens tables that are how old now? Exactly!
-Chris |
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| mpmarino |
| quote: | | What sort of tooling do you need? |
Why, you gonna send me some?
:clown:
Seriously, I've found that I can get by with a little - but I want a lot. |
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| Conrad Hoffman |
| Nice. I've had my 1940s Logan 11" for about two decades now, and it's made any number of spacers, repair parts, and anything else you can think of. Never understood how people without a lathe even manage to get through life. Though I have a mill/drill, I also have a little milling fixture for the lathe that I built out of an old slide and an angle plate. There are times when a small milling job done on the lathe is actually easier than using the mill, but you'll soon want a mill anyway. The mill/drills can do a lot, but a true knee mill is about 1000% better. Hint of the day- never use a cutting tap if you can get a forming tap, preferably Balax. No chips, never break, never wear out, and stronger thread. Only downside is they cost a bit more and can't tap anything harder than stainless (use moly oil). |
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| jleaman |
| quote: | Originally posted by Geek
Hi,
Congratulations!
When you get comfortable making nice aluminum knobs, let's discuss commercial supply ;)
Cheers! |
If you 2 design and sell knob's I'll be up for a set.! |
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| bulgin |
Hi Guys
Nice work!!! A lathe and a mill give you freedom to do almost anything. I have a Myford Speed 10 lathe and a Maxamat V10 mill.
Old but not worn and very accurately set up for very high precision work, making errr...needles.
I also work with titanium and the stuff is hell on cutters. Only milled and turned jigs for anodising at the moment but I have been eyeballing the stuff for making more interesting bits like cart bodies.
bulgin |
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| neutron7 |
well i was thinking of getting a smaller mill but CNC, i was looking at this DIY CNC table http://cncbridges.com/
as well as a big milling attachment for the lathe, which can take quite heavy cuts as i have been testing.
yes I made some titanium pens and tools on the little taig lathe, you think its bad on your myford! |
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| mpmarino |
Mr. Neutron,
What brand of lathe is that and where was it made? It looks a cut above the normal bench top stuff you see out there (pardon the pun). |
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| Magura |
| quote: | Originally posted by mpmarino
Why, you gonna send me some?
:clown:
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That just might happen....
Magura :) |
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| neutron7 |
you have extra tools? how can that be?
you can not have enough! |
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| Magura |
Sure one can have enough, I don't expect to turn more than 120 years old ;) and with that in mind, one can only use so many bits and pieces :)
Magura :) |
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| neutron7 |
| lets see what you got, maybe we can come to an arrangement :) |
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| neutron7 |
| quote: | Originally posted by mpmarino
Mr. Neutron,
What brand of lathe is that and where was it made? It looks a cut above the normal bench top stuff you see out there (pardon the pun). |
It is from lathemaster 8x 14. it is the same as harbor freight 8 x12 but he checks them over and they are better examples than the harbor freight ones. still made in china though.
I have already planned some mods though, such as a ball turning attachment, and a variable speed treadmill motor instead of the 6 fixed speeds (variable speed is one advantage the cheapo 7x10s have)
In operation is is very smooth and accurate right out of the box. the carriage moves very easily yet there is no play.
The ways are induction hardened and seem very precice.
gears are all metal. unfortunately gear changing is manual. so setting up to cut threads takes a fem minutes.
it weighs 210 pounds which is actually more than 9x20 benchtop lathes. i even found a yahoo email group for lathemaster owners.
I also bought a Quick change tool post and a benchtop bandsaw. both are very good time savers!
The bench was made from 4x4 pressure treated lumber bolted together with 7inch studs. and 2x4's, the top is 3/4 ply with 5 2x4 braces drawers are 1/2 ply with 3/4 fronts. it weighs almost as much as the lathe :D |
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| mpmarino |
| quote: | Originally posted by Magura
That just might happen....
Magura :) |
Unfortunately the great distance makes such transactions of metal items prohibitive - BUT, you are very kind!
| quote: | | I don't expect to turn more than 120 years old |
Why so grim?:clown:
Lathemaster - yes I looked at them. They have a great reputation to be quite good out of box. I have a disease- Heavy Metal Syndrome. For some strange reason, unless it comes along with 1000lbs+ of cast iron, it's not for me. :xeye: :confused: :bawling: |
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| Magura |
I have too much tools laying around to list (think the lost ark). Drop me a line if there is something you need.
As for your new little lathe. Looks good, but the wooden table isn't going to do it much good. Stuff like that likes mass....and loads of it! So a chunk of concrete bolted onto the lathe would help you a lot when it comes to precision. A nice big chunk of steel will do as well, but is somewhat more expensive and harder to get to the workshop :dead:
Magura :) |
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| Zen Mod |
| quote: | Originally posted by Magura
I have too much tools laying around to list (think the lost ark). Drop me a line if there is something you need.
..........
Magura :) |
I presume that you have at least 20 killos of ugly russian bits'n'pieces.......ugly like hell, but works as charm.......
;) |
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| Magura |
| quote: | Originally posted by Zen Mod
I presume that you have at least 20 killos of ugly russian bits'n'pieces.......ugly like hell, but works as charm.......
;) |
Nope, I have very few russian tools.....but 20+ kilograms of russian components...that's a fact :)
I sort of never really got used to my russian tools, so I gave them to a friend of mine in Latvia when I went back to Denmark.
Plus the fact that I bought a lot of vestern tools on an lquidation auction for cheap some time ago :smash:
Magura :)
EDIT: but I brought home the russian bicycle I got as farewell present from the bike club I worked for in Latvia....and it's still my preferred bike :) |
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| anatech |
Hi Magura,
I split the rest off to here. . I will gladly change the name of the thread for you. I just quickly picked one.
-Chris ;) |
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| OzMikeH |
That Lathe looks exactly like a Romac.
Good machine, especially for the price. Oil it religiously because they tend to corrode rapidly. That's the only little minus on these.
If you haven't had a lathe before I suggest painting your chuck key bright pink and tie a ribbon to it, you'll soon find out why if you haven't already. When making big cuts watch where your swarf starts piling up, the lugs on the chuck can whip you with a bundle of it. |
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| neutron7 |
I have other things that use a chuck key as well. great idea
i have it stuck to a hard drive magnet right by the chuck.
i can see that metal would corrode quite easily. Lucky my basement is very dry because of the AC. i will keep it oiled as well.
one thing i do not like very much is the gear system i cut some threads the other day just to see if i could (it worked great). and it took a while to set up the gears. i might try and get or make a gearbox.
i just got
this
and this
to make a milling attachment. |
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| OzMikeH |
I see it hasn't happened to you yet, the bright colour is not to make it easier to find, it's to remind you to take the key out of the chuck before pressing the go button.
If it doesn't hit you in the face it will slam against the bed then hit you somewhere even more painful.
:bigeyes:
Yes, I have. |
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| neutron7 |
it happened with the tommy bar in my taig. it smashed a fluorescent tube (luckily across the room)
lesson. dont have uncovered fluorescents in the workshop!
now i use an adjustable wrench and a big punch instead of the tommy bars. you cant leave them on there.
as for the bigger lathe, it has not happened yet. maybe a key with a spring loaded "ejector" would work, my drill press has that (it is somewhat annoying though) |
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| torroid88 |
| Per the (In)famous Bob and Ray Comic Routine, it looks like you will soon need your own Atomic Furnace to make rocks to your own specifications !!! The DIYers justification for almost anything and nearly everything !!! |
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| neutron7 |
| Here is the head of a fancy LED light i am working on. |
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| djQUAN |
| quote: | Originally posted by neutron7
Here is the head of a fancy LED light i am working on. |
but those look like halogen lamps. nice work though ;) |
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| neutron7 |
they are MR11s with 15 bright white LEDs inside, compatible with halogen systems (but not as hot)
got em from ebay, led wholesalers |
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| Geek |
| Let's see it fired up! :D |
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| Conrad Hoffman |
Re: chuck keys- in a real shop, anybody who removes their hand from a chuck key while it's in the chuck is fired on the spot. You're either turning the thing, or it's out of the chuck. I find the spring loaded ones annoying and it's easier to damage the hole if it won't stay deeply engaged, so the first rule is just easier to follow. Ultimately, safety is a matter of thinking about every possible thing that could go wrong, and taking steps to prevent it, and to be protected if it does anyway.
Trouble you can't fool me, I see you behind that tree! Ry Cooder, and probably older than that. |
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| mpmarino |
Wow! making your own lightbulbs, that's pretty DIY:smash:
...next you'll be rollin your own caps and vacuuming your own tubes:cool: |
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| dangus |
I don't know if this is something you can buy readymade, but I always thought it would be good to have a little box with a microswitch inside that is activated by sticking the chuck key in a hole. Wire the microswitch in series with the "start" button of the lathe or whatever so nothing runs unless the chuck key is safely stored.
Habit is good, but this would be there that one time when something interrupts you or someone less careful uses the machine. |
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| anatech |
Hi Dangus,
You could use an optocoupler and a contactor to do this. I wouldn't wire the primary current through your micro switch directly. I've replaced more micro switches in my lifetime and this can be avoided.
You could just wire it up to a warning light as well. Use an LED type.
-Chris |
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| Conrad Hoffman |
You guys just don't have any imagination. What 'ya do is wire the opto not only with the power switch, but to a big contactor across the mains. If you forget to replace the key in it's "home", the contactor crowbars the mains and blows the breaker when you throw the switch. Then you have to go to the basement with a flashlight and reset it. Now what you have is a true behavior reinforcement system. :devilr:
Seriously, the opto key home is a great idea, and actually serves two purposes. Not only does it insure the key is in a safe place, but it's where it should be every time. It seems like I never set anything down in the same place twice, so I spend more time looking for chuck keys, than I do using them. :clown: |
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| anatech |
Hi Conrad,| quote: | | Then you have to go to the basement with a flashlight and reset it. Now what you have is a true behavior reinforcement system. |
Not quite. First a change in clothing is required after the big bang! :devilr:
-Chris |
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| djQUAN |
| I don't worry about leaving the chuck key in my drill press chuck since I got my drill press second hand with the key missing. :clown: |
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| jleaman |
| quote: | Originally posted by neutron7
they are MR11s with 15 bright white LEDs inside, compatible with halogen systems (but not as hot)
got em from ebay, led wholesalers |
http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/
I order all my Led's from here, really good and also accept paypal. |
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| neutron7 |
| quote: | Originally posted by djQUAN
I don't worry about leaving the chuck key in my drill press chuck since I got my drill press second hand with the key missing. :clown: |
I just got ROHM keyless chucks for the tailsotck of the lathe and drillpress, German made as well. they are very accurate and nice to use! (and no key to lose!)
The milling attachment is coming along nice, i will post some pics when it is done. |
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| djQUAN |
| quote: | Originally posted by neutron7
I just got ROHM keyless chucks for the tailsotck of the lathe and drillpress, German made as well. they are very accurate and nice to use! (and no key to lose!)
The milling attachment is coming along nice, i will post some pics when it is done. |
I wanted to take the chuck to look for replacement keys but I have no idea how to remove it. I originally thought there is a screw deep inside the open end where the teeth was but there isn't so I left it as is. I hand tighten it and it works so no rush. :smash: |
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| mpmarino |
| quote: | Originally posted by djQUAN
I wanted to take the chuck to look for replacement keys but I have no idea how to remove it. I originally thought there is a screw deep inside the open end where the teeth was but there isn't so I left it as is. I hand tighten it and it works so no rush. :smash: |
It's probably a morse taper - there's a lot of info if you search.
Sometimes you'll never get it off though:mad: |
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| neutron7 |
cheaper drill have a thing called a jacobs taper, maybe it says something like "jt3" on the side of your chuck.
it is a short taper that gos inside the chuck. you need to get it off with a wedge of some sort. i use hardwood so i dont scratch the drill. |
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| OzMikeH |
grab the handle on the drill press, lower the chuck, place block of wood between edge of chuck and the upper body.
quick jerk up on the handle should knock the chuck off.
Always clean a morse taper before putting it together.
Even easier, buy two of those 4-way universal keys because your'e going to lose one again.
Emergency chuck key:find the perfect size drill bit, put it blunt end first in one of the chuck key holes.
Use a large flat screwdriver that fits neatly into the teeth on the chuck. Lever against the drill bit. be gentle because you can apply massive force with such a lever. I went 5 years on a drill press doing this, never did get around to buying a key. |
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| djQUAN |
| quote: | Originally posted by OzMikeH
Emergency chuck key:find the perfect size drill bit, put it blunt end first in one of the chuck key holes.
Use a large flat screwdriver that fits neatly into the teeth on the chuck. Lever against the drill bit. be gentle because you can apply massive force with such a lever. I went 5 years on a drill press doing this, never did get around to buying a key. |
that could work. :)
thanks for the ideas guys!
:smash: :smash: :smash: |
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| Geek |
Hi Neutron7,
Email is being weired today. I'm getting yours out of sequence and several hours late.
Just letting you know I have replied to them as I get them :)
Cheers! |
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| AR2 |
If you invest in VFD with new three phase motor, you could easily change the speed without loosing the power. On the top of that VFD has additional circuits and relays that allows you to install different switches that could shot the rotation. After that is just your imagination how you utilize that.
I modified my mill and lathe with VFD and I am very happy with it.:smash: :smash: :smash: |
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| AR2 |
| Forget to mention - you do not need to have three phase power in your shop. The VFD will convert single phase to three phase, or if you already have it you would just need VFD made for the three phase. |
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| neutron7 |
Here are some more.
design is by Geek, and thats who they are for. |
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| djQUAN |
is that stainless or polished aluminum?
they look nice. :D |
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| neutron7 |
| they are "brushed" 6061 aluminum. he is going to lacquer them for authentic old schoolness. |
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| Geek |
Is this guy's work awesome, or what?
Thanks Neutron!  |
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| anatech |
Hi neutron7,
Very, very nice work!
-Chris |
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| Notagenius |
| a 700 lb amplifier? that would thwart the thieves. |
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| neutron7 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Notagenius
a 700 lb amplifier? that would thwart the thieves. |
pardon? |
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| neutron7 |
Here is a pic of the milling attachment. its made from machining bits and bobs i got from ebay
Ii have a boring head so with this i can make large holes in thick front panels etc. |
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| Geek |
| Looks impressive! :) |
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| neutron7 |
| didnt you get them yet :( ? |
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| Geek |
Nope. I assume the Thanksgiving weekend has backlogged things somewhat. I've been waiting several weeks on "Priority Post" from the US too. Plus we have a couple of new gal's at the post office here :rolleyes:
If they aren't here tomorrow, I'm going down to harass them ;) |
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| neutron7 |
| i hope they are sweet :D |
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| Geek |
Got them today! :cheers:
The photo didn't do them justice. They turned out more beautiful than I hoped for. Thanks a million! :D |
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| neutron7 |
| i would like to see pics of the things they are getting put on when they are done. |
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| Geek |
| quote: | Originally posted by neutron7
i would like to see pics of the things they are getting put on when they are done. |
You can count on that! :cool: |
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| quomaya2 |
| Could you make me a volume knob that's 1.5 inches in diameter with a 1/4 inch mounting hole? |
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| neutron7 |
wow where did you dig this up from :D
do you have a rough idea how you want it to look? |
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| quomaya2 |
| Could you make it look like those ones you made for geek? |
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