Audio Project Amplifier Speaker Loudspeaker Kit
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F3 pcb group buy... - Click HERE for Original Thread
marsupialx
Payment sent for one of each (f3 and ps). Thanks. Jeffrey Hill (marsupialx)
Fuling
The boards arrived today, they look absolutely great!
Thank you very much, Peter!
Maousse
PCBs received today, those babies are great!

Thanks Peter! ;)
korben69
Many thanks Peter !
As usual very very impressive quality... followed with F3 scheme.
:cool:
CeeVee
I would take 10 of these
claiborne
Peter,

Got my PCBs today and they look great as usual. Thanks again!

-claiborne:D
Davidf1111
Payment sent for 2 amp boards and 2 PS boards. Thanks.
José Humberto
Hello Peter and all.

I need 2 set with psb for each F3 and F4 too. Confirm me the priece please.
The total price is:
F3 (13+15)*2=56
F4 (10+15)*2=50
Total 106$
Thank you very much
lohk
Payment sent.
(verry nice boards..)

Klaus
Peter Daniel
quote:
Originally posted by José Humberto
I need 2 set with psb for each F3 and F4 too. Confirm me the priece please.
The total price is:
F3 (13+15)*2=56
F4 (10+15)*2=50
Total 106$

Yes, that is correct.
José Humberto
Thank you Peter.
Payment send.
lordvader
Hopefully my boards arrive soon ! Can't wait to start assembling !

I'm currently in the process of selecting components, and am stuck at which enclosure to chose. I'm currently torn between the ATI-639M, or the 4U, 400mm deep Pesante Dissipante from HiFi 2000.

Both have substantial heatsinks, and though the ATI case looks better, the heatsink appears to be made of of many smaller heatsinks. Wouldn't that impact on its cooling prowesses somewhat?
john65b
I love both of those Pass Labs looking cases, but shipping from pacific rim (ATI) and Italy (hifi2000) kinda killed the deal for me.

I also like and bought a case from Hexateq.com (Denmark?)...real nice, not cheap, but worth it to me....
nihonJR
Hello Peter ,

I need 2 set with psb for each F3 and F4 too.
The total price is:
F3 (13+15)*2=56
F4 (10+15)*2=50
Total 106$
Is it still available?

Thank you very much
Domo arigato:D

How can i do for payment by paypal ???
( What is your mail ??? )
Peter Daniel
Yes, they are available. I sent you my paypal info.
ipolyakov
Peter,
Got my boards. They look great.
Thanks a lot for your offer.
Igor
kraljmatjaz
Hello,
i have a question for the experts, as i am a complete newbie in the Pass amps projects.
1) Do i need matched IRFP240 Mosfets in the F3 amp ?
2) what voltage for the 220mF condensers (is 50V enough)?

thank you all.

Boris
NihonJR06
quote:
Originally posted by nihonJR
Hello Peter ,

I need 2 set with psb for each F3 and F4 too.
The total price is:
F3 (13+15)*2=56
F4 (10+15)*2=50
Total 106$
Is it still available?

Thank you very much
Domo arigato:D

How can i do for payment by paypal ???
( What is your mail ??? )

quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
Yes, they are available. I sent you my paypal info.

Hi peter
I have a problem with this login,
I don't arrive to find the pass world
to modify my old email
with this new login you can contact me

Thanks
domo arigato
:smash:
Maousse
Hi Peter,

Payment's done for the F4 PCBs

Thanks
CeeVee
Hi Peter,

Got my boards, Tks.
They look gorgeous.

...now for the rest... of the work.
Peter Daniel
quote:
Originally posted by NihonJR06
Hi peter
I have a problem with this login,
I don't arrive to find the pass world
to modify my old email
with this new login you can contact me

The paypal info was posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...371#post1298371
traw
got boards thanks.

very much like the mirror of the board pair such that wiring is symmetrical.
hc167
Peter:

I got the PCB last night. They are nice. thanks a lot.
Flecko
Hi Peter,
the boards have arrived. They look very nice. Thank you very much.
Greetings Adrian
NihonJR06
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel


The paypal info was posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...371#post1298371


Hi peter,

i send you paypal payment tomorrow...

it's not to late ??? , i hope so :confused: :smash:
Peter Daniel
It is fine, I still have boards available.
ipolyakov
I almost finished soldering my boards (still missing a few resistors) and wanted to share with you a picture of them.

hc167
oh, nice picture. Is the Jensen 4-poles capacitors suppose to use to power supply filter???
jonclancy
Nice work!!!

What make are the red resistors?

Cheers

Jon
ipolyakov
quote:
Originally posted by jonclancy
Nice work!!!

What make are the red resistors?

Cheers

Jon

Jon,
Thanks. The red resistors are the PRP resistors for Audio. I get them from Soniccraft or Partsconnexion. They are not very expensive.
Regards,
Igor
ipolyakov
quote:
Originally posted by hc167
oh, nice picture. Is the Jensen 4-poles capacitors suppose to use to power supply filter???


Thank you. I am not an expert but people on this board have used the Jensen 4-poles capacitors for the output cap and reported positive results. Also, Peter Daniel has used these capacitors in his ZV9 amp. Maybe Peter can provide his opinion.
Flecko
Shouldn't be a 15kF cap be used for C1 or is it allowed to use a smaler one?
Greetings Adrian
NihonJR06
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
It is fine, I still have boards available.


Hi peter

Paypal payment done

:D domo arigato
Davidf1111
Peter,

I received the boards yesterday. They look great. Thanks.

David.
CfM
Hi Peter,

do you still have some boards left?

I'm interested in 2 stereo pairs (Amp & PS).

Thanks a lot!

Chris
Peter Daniel
Yes, still some left.
tbrooke
It may be early but are there any reports from anyone starting on an F3. Sugestions, progress reports, parts vendors, etc


Tom
Maousse
Got the F4 PCBs Peter!
Thanks a lot :)
CfM
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
Yes, still some left.


Hi Peter,

Paypal payment is sent.
Thank you very much.

Regards,
Chris
hayenc
Could you clarify how the Jensen 4-pole should be connected if used on the amp board? Do you have to cut traces to have it done correctly? If so, which ones? I know Peter marked the F4 power supply boards, but not clear exactly how to do it for the amp capacitor.
Peter Daniel
Jensen 4 pole advantage cannot be used in coupling application, so no traces need to be cut; just install it as any other cap, the amp board is ready for it ;)
Peter Daniel
quote:
Originally posted by Flecko
Shouldn't be a 15kF cap be used for C1 or is it allowed to use a smaler one?

You can use any value for C1 as long as it won't be acting as a high pass filter.

For instance, with my 4 ohm FAL drivers, I'm using presently BG N 330/100 and a cut off frequency is approx 120Hz.

With 8 ohm drivers and 2200uF cap (for C1) the cut off frequency is approx 9Hz. It will double for 4 ohm.
lordvader
So 15000 uF is basically overkill for most applications ?

What about in terms of DC blocking capabilities ? Would too small a coupling capacitor pose any threat to the speakers ?
Peter Daniel
The capacitance value is not critical for coupling safety: I'm using a single 6.8uF in a tweeter network. The voltage rating is important though, and with this amp should be at least 63V.
jameshillj
Peter,
Boards arrived - excellent quality, as usual - thanks for adding the updated Cct diagram with the good packing, and also for all the efforts to make these boards available, Many thanks - much appreciated.
James
Flecko
Hi Peter,
thanks for the explanation.
With two parts I am still not sure what typ I should use.
I like to use IXYS-diodes in ps-board but I don't know where to get them and wich typ maches best.
There is the advice in the ZV9 manual to adjust the voltage on the J-fet with a powerpotentiometer (It was R3 I think). What type is suitable and where can I buy it? I just found very expensiv potis for 20w.
Has anbody experiences?
Greetings Adrian
Peter Daniel
I'm not familiar with IXYS, in my F3 amp I used those bridges: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tamp=1076894979 (bought years ago through Forum).

As to the pot, use a regular trimpot (not a power unit); later you can put fixed resistor in its place.

BTW, the pics of my Zv9 using older boards, have been posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...948#post1254948
lordvader
The schematic shows R5 as being 2.7R. Would this be sufficient to get the 1.1V on the JFet, or is fine tuning this value a real neccessity ?
Peter Daniel
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
As to the pot, use a regular trimpot (not a power unit); later you can put fixed resistor in its place.

I have to correct my previous statement: I actually didn't use any pot here, but calculated the resistor value using info in Zv9 article: http://www.passdiy.com/pdf/ZV9.pdf

It was the other trimpot that I replaced with fixed resistor.
José Humberto
Hello Adrian, see here
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catal...conductors.html
guglielmope
Hello,
300VA in enough for the power transformer of the F3 stereo version?
Thanks
Guglielmo
Peter Daniel
It should be OK.
luis.martins
To Peter:

Hi, I put my name in the Wiki for the group buy but have been so busy that I've lost track of things... I'm still interested in a set for a stereo F3, do I need 2 PSU boards or just one?

Will one PSU board be able to supply the two audio channels?
Will it be better to use one PSU board for each audio channel in a dual mono configuration?

Could you please let me know of the shipping costs to Portugal?

Thanks,
Luis
sandro600
Any PS and F3 boards left Peter ?
Peter Daniel
I have at least 10 more amp boards available. For a stereo set you would need one PS board. For dual mono, PS board breaks in half (along scoring line). Depending on capacitors type, you may install up to 2 x 22,000uf per each side of PS board, which should work fine.

The PCB prices include international shipping (insurance is optional, at $7 extra).
NihonJR06
Hi peter,

Boards F3 and F4 are arrived on saturday

Everything is perfect

You've done a great job

Domo arigato

Thanks

:D :)
Peter Daniel
The F3 amp boards are sold out, there are still some PS boards left.
lohk
Does your F3 pcbs follow the schematic and decriptions of the R0 11/04/05 release?
Peter Daniel
Yes, it does, with the exception of R13 which is not there and P1 should be increased to 10k.
lordvader
Hey all.

Tonight I was planning to measure the Vds of my jfets, using the circuit described in the ZenV9 pdf.
I bought a desktop power supply capable of 1.5A, with selectable voltages from 3V to 12V (seemed suitable). I up the fet, turned on the power supply, and noticed it putting out 4.7V rather than 3V, and the jfet was getting VERY hot. I killed the power right away, but could I have fried the fet ?
Do these things need any heatsinking while measuring the Vds ?
Peter Daniel
If you keep the part in a socket for too long, it will surely get hot.

I place all the parts on a table, let the temperature stabilize over an hour or so. Then I do the measurements by quickly inserting the part, reading the voltage and off it goes. No need for heatsink.
CfM
Hi Peter,

the F3-Boards arrived yesterday. :)

They look really great. Thank you very much.

Greetings,
Chris
gabkw
I have decided not to embark on building two F3s so if anyone is interested, here are the parts I have assembled so far. I posted this on Trading Post as well.


FS: Parts that can be used for building two F3 stereo amps:

2 ea Plitron 200734 transformers (2x18VAC) from group buy http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...threadid=104773

10 ea matched Lovoltech LU1014D power JFET from http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...&threadid=71633

Two F3 amp boards and two F3 rectifier boards (4 boards of each) which is enough to build two stereo F3 amps from http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...threadid=103535

Everything just as I received it. Selling as 1 lot for the exact prices I paid for them - $228.91 plus shipping (lower 48 only)

gab
luis.martins
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
The F3 amp boards are sold out, there are still some PS boards left.


Ho no!!! I've just been away for a few days......
Do you have any idea if you'll order more PCBs?

Thanks,
Luis
breizheau
Yep, same for me..... No luck !:bawling:
Peter, is it possible to get 2 PCB for the PS ? Al least i could get them !!!!;)

In case it's not possible to get somme F3 PCBs, is it possible to find files to do them myself...?:apathic:
Ryssen
Will a 0.32 C/Watt heatsink manage one channel?
tbrooke
I have my PCB's and I am looking for part, probably a little late. I can not locate the LU1014. I missed the group buy and as far as I can determine there is no other place to find them. Does anyone have a suggestion. I think I am able to manage with everything else, although a case and heatsink recomendation would be nice

Tom
lafish
I'd like a set if there are. You can contact me offline at larryfisher1@mac.com
Thanks!
Peter Daniel
The F3 boards are all gone. You may start another wiki list and if there is an interest in 50 boards I can arrange for another run. But were will you get the Lovoltechs from?

You could also post an ad in Trading Post for F3 PCBs and Lovoltechs, I'm pretty sure not everybody will be using them.

I still have F4 and PS boards available.
timbarnes
Since Mr. Pass so kindly passed out some Lovoltech transistors and mosfets and things, I'm sure there will be a spike of interest...

I'd love to acquire a set of F3 / Zen v9 boards and join in the fun, but I don't know how to go about getting them made. I'd be happy to help with logistics if someone else can guide me.

Regards,
tim
lordvader
Hey all !

It's recently come to my attention that this F3 amp I'm about to build (parts aren't cheap !), only has 13db gain, meaning I'm probably going to need a decent active preamp in front of it (I wanted to take the TVC path, but even with +6 db gain, it may not be enough, considering most phono stages only put out 0.5V).

Before I start work on a preamp (I'm thinking about a BoZ, or the Jfet variant), would there be any problems increasing the gain of the amp by fiddling with the resitistor ratios (R1 and R2) ?

I was also toying with building a non-feedback version of this amp, by using the the input described in the ZenV9 document (fig. 4). What would the gain be taking that path ?
colonelkernel8
Hey, if anyone has a spare set of boards from the group buy, I would certainly like to buy them from you.
Ryssen
quote:
(parts aren't cheap !)
I just realized that..
What electrolyte at the out put are you folks planing on using?
apassgear
I use a salad as for output lytics on my Zen's
10mf Elna + 6.8mf Chemicon+330uf Pana FC + 10uf film Wonder Cap + 0.47uf Wima on Zen V4.

For Zv9 I plan to use near the same maybe deliting the wima
;)
lordvader
Hey all.

I'm currectly collecting the bits and pieces to build this sucker, and am wondering what to get for the 220uF caps ?
I notice that PD actually used 100uF BG N's on one of his Zen boards. Would a smaller value cap have any impact ?

What other decent caps may be used for these (such as BG STD's, or Elna Silmics perhaps ...).

Appreciate any advice :)
korben69
Hi Lordavader,

IMHO you can use Elna 220µF/63v for C2 to C7. (low ESR)
They fit perfectly on F3 Peter's boards.
jameshillj
Morning LV,
For C2,3,4 and 8 I would suggest either Blackgate N/NX or Elna ROA Cerafines with maybe a small propylene bipass (underneath) and for C5,6,7 the Nichicon Muze (KZ or FK) or Blackgate F series and again, maybe with a bipass to taste.
Also for C1, an excellent alternative is the Rifa (peh169/200) and will have to be mounted offboard - large size.

The C9 is a bit tricky- the sound is very dependent on this - I favour propylene here, rather than styrene or silver. All sorts of possibilities, including the "missing base" problem!

I would suggest the Panasonic FC rather than the Elna Silmic and the BG STD are always welcome.

A lot depends on the rest of your system, musical taste, room acoustics, etc
lordvader
Thanks for the options !!!

The only problem with BG N/NX caps, is that the 220uF value either comes in 16V or 160V (no 50V values unfortunately), hence my asking of 100uF would suffice for C2,3 and 4 (I won't be using any bypass caps for C1, as I've already got some Jensen 4 poles lying around :) ).
Ryssen
What is R1,R2 and C5 on the supply board?
And between the filter lyts there is a place for either 2 transistors or 2 3-leg regulator.
Peter Daniel
Those are optional parts in case you use the board for other purpose than F3 PS.

The TO-220 devices are regulators and parts you mentioned are used with them: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...660#post1237660
korben69
Hi, some informations needed about C9 cap.

Are those a valuable choice (Farnell parts N°) :
a - 1100502
b - 1264873
c - 9411682
d - 1138901

Thanks !
lordvader
Hey all.

Got a question about calculating the value for R5.

According to the ZV9 manual, there are three ways to do it. Using a distortion analyser (no dice), testing the jfet as per the schematic (which I tried, but for some reason, I was getting voltages like 0.74 across the resistor, well outside the range in the manual. I'm assuming I did something wrong, dunno what though ...), and the third option was to set R3 so that Vds is 2.5V, with the output DC at 23V ...

How do you determine that value then ?
BDP
Lordvader,

I can share a little about the source resistance and distortion.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...736#post1248736

When I built the second amp the total source resistance of 0.5 ohms (2//2//1) produced a little more than 0.04 % distortion (1 watt and 8 ohm load). When I adjusted the total source resistance to 0.55 ohms the distortion went to about 0.015%. Yes thats right .05 ohms and most of us are using 5% resistors. My point is you can get pretty good distortion numbers by using what Nelson had presented in the Ver 9 articles.

Vgs at lowest distortion was 0.87V for one and 0.89V for the other.

BDP
zenesh
I just got 50V elna caps for all the 220uF. Will they work fine or am I cutting it too close?

With regards to to C1/C10/C8 what is the smallest voltage i should get? 50V?
jameshillj
50 volt for electros is fine, although sometimes wider range at 63v (okay).
The old stock Elna Cerafines are quite good, otherwise look to Pana FC, Nichicon Muse KZ (maybe FG), Rubicon B/Gates (maybe ZL), etc.
For C8 it is better to go for a higher voltage propylene cap and hence spend some money on this one. C2 can be 35v, maybe even 25v.
Suggest higher current rating ripple caps (physically bigger, too) in the power supply, rather than the compact size ones (for same uF) and avoid wirewound R in the C-R-C.
Good quality connection wire is essential.

The amp is not dead silent, but still quiet enough.

Will maybe need to upgrade the ICs and perhaps set your speakers up again - extraordinary performance, this amp - well worth extra care, attention, & cost.
kraljmatjaz
I still haven't received the boards (from 12 september!!!!) :bawling: :bawling: :bawling: :bawling: it looks like they are blocked somewhere in the italian customs ....Italian Post/customs sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:dead::mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:


Merry Christmas and happy New Year to everybody
Boris
CfM
quote:
Originally posted by jameshillj
For C8 it is better to go for a higher voltage propylene cap and hence spend some money on this one.

Due to limited space on our boards I ordered MKT (Vishay MKT1817). I hope these are not too dishonorable for this great amplifier. :xmasman:

Greetings,
Chris
jameshillj
Peter has designed a number of options into the pcb, including leaving the C1 off the board and so can use the vacant space for other options - if the pcb is raised higher above the heatsink, you can add components below the board also. such as trimming resistors, bipass caps (if desired), connecting wires, etc.

Many people find that "bipassing" good electros detracts from the sound - simpler the better - often true - continuing technical discussion on another thread, worth a visit.

The 1817s are okay.

My C1 (at present) is a large Rifa 15,000/40v [50mm dia x 75mm high] mounted off-board and has a big, fat companion 4.7uF ICW Clarity Cap added which complements the C10 BlackGate (a bit surprising, this!) plus the 0.1uF Styrene (now sub for C8) - the sound of this "construction site" is a little "too-top-end" until the caps settle down.
.
Obviously, a simpler &/or better assortment of caps will result in a different sound for you - this selection is just an example of going a bit over-the-top - it's good to push the limits!
kraljmatjaz
113 days after Peter Daniel sent the F3 boards they finally arrived at my home. THANK YOU POSTE ITALIANE SPA!!!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
Never never again. I will use UPS instead.
They look great and i hope i will start building my F3 in a couple of days.
Bye
Valeriano
Hello Boris!

good news for you.

and hopefully for me :) my F3 boards were shipped mid September and since then not yet delivered, package still blocked at the Customs. :mad:

happy building, have fun.
ciao
.vale.
Valeriano
:D :D boards arrived today! :D :D

very good quality, thanks Peter.!

ciao
.vale.
SanJoseBong
Hi,
I wanna build a F3. Any PCB boards left that I can buy?
Thanks,
Bong
ZUM911
See a couple of replies on how to adjust P2 but I'ts still not clear to me. Can someone tell me a value and where to measure it? Poking the dmm probe around while turning P2 hasn't got me anywhere. Thanks
José Humberto
Hello
Can anybody tell me how to adjust P1 and P2 in F3 please?
I hope I can make it works this evening.
Thank you very much
JPeitzman
I'm a little late to the game as always, but I too am interested in if there are any F3 PCB's around up for grabs. For that matter if there are not are there any Zen v9's? Lastly and of course any LU1014's?

:bawling:

Thanks much in advance!!
lordvader
Sorry to bump this, but a quick question about the AC current gain.

I've managed to confuse myself by looking at the ZV2 and ZV9 articles while tired (as well as this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...threadid=107958), so I'd like someone to make it all better.

Now, the AC gain is altered by varying R19 (in the ZV9). The article states that as it currently appears, the gain is set to 50%. However, using the formula in the afore mentioned link, to have an AC gain of 50%, R19 needs to be of the same value as R13 (which is the way the equivalent resistors are setup in ZV2).

So ... on the F3 board, if I go by the ZV9 article, I can adjust P2 so that it plus, R18 is about 3x the value of R14, OR, I can omit P2, and have R14 and R18 be equal (ala ZV2).

What do I do ? I'm kinda at my wits end :)

(actually, going by the formula, i get an A value of 1.66 for the ZV9, which sounds like a 66% gain, not 50% ....)

(but then, if I put equivalent R values in the formula (so that B = 1), I get a = 0.5, which sounds like attenuation ...)

(and then I get unity gain if B=0.5, so one resistor is twice the value of the other ...)

AAAAAAARRRGH !!!
(sorry if this is all over the place, kinda doing two things at once atm ...)
lordvader
Scratch that !

I just found the Aleph-X wiki, and will use that as my reference :)
José Humberto
Hello alls
Someone has pcbs for F3 available? I need only two chanel.
Best regards.
Jose
lordvader
Quick question ...

While reviewing my board, i noticed that I'd purchased the wrong resistor value for R8 (the schematic wants 2ohms, I've got 1ohm there). This puts the overall value of R6|R7|R8 at 0.33ohms rather than 0.4 ohms. The difference is tiny, but would it have an impact overall, especially when it comes to current gain ?
jameshillj
Just try it - should be okay but might require R5 trimmer - if you're concerned about it, send me your address and I'll post a few up to you - no problems - Panasonic 3Watt (blue) I think.
What caps are you using, and what sort of power supply?

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