| Elfer |
I've been using crummy computer speakers for my stereo system, but all the speakers I have are too big and clunky, so I thought building my own would be a fun project. I like woodworking and electornics, so why not, hey?
I'm planning on building a pair of Cyburg Needles, with Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Drivers.
They're going to be hooked up to a Marantz 1515 Stereo Receiver.
The reason I'm making this topic is to make sure I know everything I need to construct a functioning pair of speakers, and I assumed people with more experience would be able to spot any stupid beginner problems I had.
Things I imagine I need:
For speakers:
- 2 Drivers
- 2 Terminal cups
- Speaker wire (Also, what kind of wiring should I use? I've heard some business about using cat5 instead of ordinary speaker cable, what's the deal with that?)
For cabinets:
- Big ol' sheet of MDF
- Wood glue
- Drywall Screws
- Big wad of stuffing (probably get this from a fabric store?)
- Primer and black spraypaint
Bonus information on speaker use:
- These will be used for music only, or at least 95% of the time
- Indoor use only
- Will mostly be listening at a "comfortable" volume, i.e. can carry on a conversation in the same room, not using them for parties or anything goofy like that.
So, any advice, thoughts, problems, general tips for a first-time builder? Anything would be appreciated, hope to get some feedback on this. |
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| Nanook |
welcome to FR!
please conside planet10's "Fonkens". He can sell ya the modded drivers for not much more than standard ones, and can provide plans for what I consider to be an outstanding value. They actually can play bass and are most enjoyable to listen too. He may have flat packs (you put together enclosures, but everything is cut and sourced for you). You would need stands. I think dave may have a set of floorstanders available too.
I'd recommend no terminal cups, just binding posts,. Dave may be ablwe to supply those too.
Please do not use mdf for any loudspeaker enclosures if you can help it. The saw dust is toxic (formaldehyde), and it breathes. For just a little more money Baltic Birch plywood is so much better. (OK double the $$$ but way better material). If you finish the outside of the speakers, please finish the interior in the same manner. eg: if paint on the outside, paint on the inside. They will sound much better.
the Tangbands are excellent value, but not in the same league as a modified Fostex driver. But for $17 a pair (USD) pretty hard to go wrong.
I have used Cat5 to very good effect. In Canada, Princess Auto is a good source. |
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| Elfer |
Thanks for the advice, I was actually thinking plywood at first, and I just had a ridiculously simple idea on how to get some cheaply, thanks to your post. I think I'm going to build the cabinets myself though, it'll make the project more involved and will allow me to easily make a larger base (I have some problems with lateral destabilization of tall objects in my house, mainly caused by my cat rubbing against them)
As for the other things, I'm mainly going with the cheaper drivers just because it's my first project and I don't have a whole lot to invest right now. A few years down the line I'll probably be investing a few hundred dollars to make a much nicer system, but for the moment, tuition and space limitations make homemade needles the best choice for this project, as far as I can tell.
I probably will get some cat5 from princess auto, barring of course finding some in a drawer somewhere. When I connect the internal wiring to the drivers and binding posts, I'm assuming I should solder the connections?
Also, I noticed that the RMS of my receiver is 15W at 4 ohm impedance, but the speakers are rated for 12W. Is this a problem, and if so, what do I need to do to correct it? |
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| gychang |
| quote: | Originally posted by Elfer
I've been using crummy computer speakers for my stereo system, but all the speakers I have are too big and clunky, so I thought building my own would be a fun project. I like woodworking and electornics, so why not, hey?
I'm planning on building a pair of Cyburg Needles, with Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Drivers.
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| quote: | Originally posted by Elfer
Thanks for the advice, I was actually thinking plywood at first, and I just had a ridiculously simple idea on how to get some cheaply, thanks to your post. I think I'm going to build the cabinets myself though, it'll make the project more involved and will allow me to easily make a larger base (I have some problems with lateral destabilization of tall objects in my house, mainly caused by my cat rubbing against them)
Also, I noticed that the RMS of my receiver is 15W at 4 ohm impedance, but the speakers are rated for 12W. Is this a problem, and if so, what do I need to do to correct it? |
I have built 2 needles one with plywood and the other with MDF, using W3-871 speakers. Great project, take a look here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tamp=1175359666
can't tell which cabinet is better, if u want to stain it plywood, if want to paint then MDF, but u can always put on veneering on MDF and stain also. I veneered my MDF cabinet.
I have ordered the W3-593SF to build DelSol but wondered how they would sound on the needle cabinet. I will be closely following your project and would appreciate your assessment of sound.
One thing you have forgetten, make sure to use the BSC, take a look at the original thread, I built mine with BSC all installed.
I played mine with old Kenwood stereo receiver 15W/ch and they sounded plenty loud and clean. I loved mine. I ended up giving them away to my friends since they wouldn't leave me alone...
gychang |
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| Elfer |
By BSC do you mean the notch filter?
The problem with the notch filter is that at this point I really know very little about speaker building, so I wouldn't know how to make or install something like that. Is it just an inductor, condenser and resistor soldered to the positive wire in parallel?
Also, I don't have instruments for measuring sound quality, so I'll just have to say something along the lines of "Gee, I sure do like listening to music on these!" or "These speakers sound worse than when a fly gets just into your ear and starts buzzing its wings on you, gross" |
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| gychang |
| quote: | Originally posted by Elfer
By BSC do you mean the notch filter?
The problem with the notch filter is that at this point I really know very little about speaker building, so I wouldn't know how to make or install something like that. Is it just an inductor, condenser and resistor soldered to the positive wire in parallel?
Also, I don't have instruments for measuring sound quality. |
I also don't have any instruments, or golden ears. With the notch filter it sounds good.
I know nothing about the electronics put together for the first time here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...ht=#post1167139
gychang |
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| Elfer |
So I need to make one filter for each speaker, and solder it into the cable leading to the positive terminal on the speaker?
Also, it looks like you're using 6 ohms of resistance in your photo. Is it supposed to be 6 or 6.7? |
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| gychang |
| quote: | Originally posted by Elfer
So I need to make one filter for each speaker, and solder it into the cable leading to the positive terminal on the speaker?
Also, it looks like you're using 6 ohms of resistance in your photo. Is it supposed to be 6 or 6.7? |
You need one for each cabinet. I used 6Ohms.
gychang |
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| Elfer |
So the drivers are coming in today, but I'm having second thoughts about the notch filter, as the one in the other topic was designed for a different driver.
Does anyone know where I could find a frequency response for the Tang Band W3-593SF, so I could do some calculations for a notch filter? |
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| Nanook |
I understand the need to keep costs down. As far as soldering, yes a solder joint is better than using lugged terminals if possible. Using terminals at the speaker end of the internal wiring will however allow you to experiment with other drivers in the same enclosures--if that's a consideration.
Regarding power to said speakers: I've seen quite few blown drivers in my day, but please understand that most drivers are blown because of too little power, not too much. If too little power is provided for a particularly loud listening level , clipping can occur when the amp is pushed, sending an uncontrolled voltage spike to your speakers. Many don't understand this.
Your Marantz is a fine old reciever and should serve you well . Just remember that with a fairly inefficient speaker, if in a large room, please don't push it. Most people don't understand that a 2 watt amp can make a lot of music (my eldest bro, the headbanger didn't until he bought a Decware amp--and he uses it with some old original Advents--not a match made in heaven)
for the Tangbands you linked to, based on a reference SPL of 86 dB (at 1 watt, 1 meter), 15 watts will produce 109.5dB (at 1 watt, 1 metre). which seems loud enough if fairly close to the speakers. As sound pressure varies as 1/d (d is distance between you and your loudspeakers) , the longer the "d" the larger the reduction in SPL at your listening position. As a reference, a jackhammer at 1metre is approximately 100dB, so you should be able to produce jackhammer level sound in your room:) |
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