• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Cheap emergency gold sockets

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Nordic

Nordic

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Joined 2005
users.tpg.com.au/users/gerskine/dxamp/
#1
Stole this idea from Sijosae.. so I better share it...

If you need a socket and the shop is closed...
pull the pins from an old female d-sub plug....

There you go, cheap gold contacts...

cheapsocket.jpg
 
#4
I tried that waiting for acorn sockets to arrive and found the pins didn't retain tension well. A simple solution was slipping 1/8" of tight-fitting teflon sleeve over the sub-D pin before soldering, just enough to act as a tensioning band. Shrink tube might work too though not as well.
 
#7
Yeah, its a Multi-Hybrid Headphone Amp
6922 - ecc88 - 6dj8 and a few cheap fets and regs...
24V and 2 9V cells, batteryless version explained too.

http://translate.google.com/transla...&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools

and another version

http://translate.google.com/transla...&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
#10
It might be worth pointing out that the pins on most pcb mount sockets do not line up with the pins on the tubes -- they are spaced wider. So, it looks like you designed the board with the eagle "tubes" library, and if you now try to fit a regular socket to the board, with a very few exceptions, it won't fit.

So, you may be stuck with the makeshift socket, and, importantly, someone with a board spaced for a socket who is lacking one likely won't get away with this trick.
 
#13
Diegot, please send me a link for the pcb ... looking for that one... etched the V3, but it is rediculously small... have seen tubes with a larger footprint.

The one I built is very unstable... it oscilates on power on... gotta pull the tube and reinsert with the power running to fix... then you have to adjust the trimpots to make noise go away.

Then it sounds awesome I think the heatsinks on my IRF610s are too small... we are talking very hot.... Wonder if grid stoppers would help.
 
#14
Nordic
I made the PCB of this link
http://www.headphoneamp.co.kr/bbs/zboard.php?id=diy_sijosae&no=247

Mine is rock solid. At the start up have a few seconds delay and then the sound starts. Very good but I have a little of hum, because i'm not using a regulated power supply yet. No grid sttopers required and it's pluged direct in the source, no volume control.

I just adjusted the trimpots just once, since then everything is fine.
I'm having 17V at the anodes but 7.3V at heaters, I need a larger resistor value on the 317.

At the output I'm using IRF530, wanna to try the 610 or 510 because their input capacitance, many times smaller than the 530, so I hope to get better treble.

The heatsinks are pulled of from a old At power supply and get real hot too, but I think that is fine for 2W of dissipation, I have two heatsinks.

Any problems you have I'm avaiable to help.

Regards,
Diego
 
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