Hi all,
This is my first crossover and I'm having problems with the low pass.
I'm trying to build a second order Linkwitz Riley filter like this one(similar but crossover point at 2200Hz):
I bought this PCB from Solen:
This is the specs of inductors I'm using:
http://www.solen.ca/induct/litz.htm
The high pass is fonctionnal but not the low pass. From the tests I did, it's like the inductors are not conducting current. To affirm this, I connected my driver directly to the amp with the inductor in serie in the circuit and I had no sound, like it's not conducting ... I also tested it with a volmeter and I'm reading 0.310V before the inductor and 0.030V after ... That would explain why the current stop at the first inductor in the low pass using the PCB and the complete crossover network.
Also, can someone explain me why in the PCB(low pass) Re and Ce are inverted according to the design ?
Thanks a lot, I'm really stuck right now 😡
REALFLEO
This is my first crossover and I'm having problems with the low pass.
I'm trying to build a second order Linkwitz Riley filter like this one(similar but crossover point at 2200Hz):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I bought this PCB from Solen:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the specs of inductors I'm using:
http://www.solen.ca/induct/litz.htm
The high pass is fonctionnal but not the low pass. From the tests I did, it's like the inductors are not conducting current. To affirm this, I connected my driver directly to the amp with the inductor in serie in the circuit and I had no sound, like it's not conducting ... I also tested it with a volmeter and I'm reading 0.310V before the inductor and 0.030V after ... That would explain why the current stop at the first inductor in the low pass using the PCB and the complete crossover network.
Also, can someone explain me why in the PCB(low pass) Re and Ce are inverted according to the design ?
Thanks a lot, I'm really stuck right now 😡
REALFLEO
You say you tested..." ......with the inductor in the curcuit"
Does that mean its mounted on the printboard
Have you tried it directly connected without printboard
Does that mean its mounted on the printboard
Have you tried it directly connected without printboard
It's what I meant by tested with the inductor in serie, directly connected to the amp(no PCB).
and I heard no sound... that's why I'm thinking the inductor is not conductive.
Thanks,
REALFLEO
and I heard no sound... that's why I'm thinking the inductor is not conductive.
Thanks,
REALFLEO
I thought about it too but what should I do ... use sandpaper to remove that varnish on leads ...
Thanks,
REALFLEO
Thanks,
REALFLEO
Happy new year to you too Realfleo!
Also very good choice of components!
Strange problem you have with these litz coils, I used them before and was very pleased with the sound, improves the exactness of the low freqs. very dramatically. To test it just heat the leads well with a solder iron or jet burner and add solder with flux in the meanwhile...it takes a while for the varnish to burn off...(it'll start to 'bubble' first creating a distinct smell 😀)...if you use a solder iron try to find the 'sweet spot' of the heat transfer well, mostly it works well to start heating at the tip of the lead (where it has been cut off) because it doesn't have varnish there it will take up solder quite easily and there you have a good 'heat bridge'....
Take your ohms-meter and it should read about 0.3 ohms (very low resistance on these coils!)....
Also very good choice of components!
Strange problem you have with these litz coils, I used them before and was very pleased with the sound, improves the exactness of the low freqs. very dramatically. To test it just heat the leads well with a solder iron or jet burner and add solder with flux in the meanwhile...it takes a while for the varnish to burn off...(it'll start to 'bubble' first creating a distinct smell 😀)...if you use a solder iron try to find the 'sweet spot' of the heat transfer well, mostly it works well to start heating at the tip of the lead (where it has been cut off) because it doesn't have varnish there it will take up solder quite easily and there you have a good 'heat bridge'....
Take your ohms-meter and it should read about 0.3 ohms (very low resistance on these coils!)....
ok so do you think I had this ''conductivity'' problem cuz of the varnish on coils ?
It's really like no current can go through the inductor for the low pass ...
I'll test burning the varnish tomorrow because it's almost 1am here ;-)
Thanks for your post,
REALFLEO
It's really like no current can go through the inductor for the low pass ...
I'll test burning the varnish tomorrow because it's almost 1am here ;-)
Thanks for your post,
REALFLEO
Be very careful!!!!
The tweet section will seem to be working even if it's inductor is not connected. Check to make sure the tweet L is actually in the circuit, or you may blow the tweeter.
Cheers, John
The tweet section will seem to be working even if it's inductor is not connected. Check to make sure the tweet L is actually in the circuit, or you may blow the tweeter.
Cheers, John
You are right.
I don't know if the inductors are working but I'm sure the L-Pad is cuz I tested the HP circuit with different freq. and I was able to hear the drop-off.
Thanks,
REALFLEO
I don't know if the inductors are working but I'm sure the L-Pad is cuz I tested the HP circuit with different freq. and I was able to hear the drop-off.
Thanks,
REALFLEO
HEY !!!! Good news guys ! You were right v-bro the problem was with that varnish on wires ! 😀
But now I'm wondering how to remove the varnish from bigger coils that are made of multiple wires.
It doen't work with my solder iron. Maybe because it's a 15Watt should I buy a 25 watt ?
Thanks,
REALFLEO
But now I'm wondering how to remove the varnish from bigger coils that are made of multiple wires.
It doen't work with my solder iron. Maybe because it's a 15Watt should I buy a 25 watt ?
Thanks,
REALFLEO
I use a 60 watt with a 2-3mm flat tip - a bit hot for small parts but very good fore the heavy stuff
I overlooked in the beginning that it was litz wire inductors
Its clear by now that its not well suited fore beginners
Even if it seeems like working ok, it could easily lead to malfunktion if only some of the wires have proper connection 😡
Its clear by now that its not well suited fore beginners
Even if it seeems like working ok, it could easily lead to malfunktion if only some of the wires have proper connection 😡
Chartal said:You can try Micro Jet Torch from Canadian Tire.
v-bro said:just heat the leads well with a solder iron or jet burner
That's probably the same thing I always use for the heavier work....I even have a heavy one that I used to do some plumbing with....
They work like a charm, makes even the largest objects easy to solder and it is instantly hot...😉
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