Is it ok to use a 2.25mH inductor for L0? (ie. design calls for a 2.2mH inductor - will the extra 0.05mH be significant?)
What are the cabinet dimensions? (unless I'm blind, I couldn't find them on the design page)
What are the tweeter / woofer positions (centre) relative to top of baffle?
and left field....
Zaph,
I'm quite keen on trying a Seas metal cone design - but want a higher efficiency one. Have you considered a 2.5 way or MTM Seas design?
Cheers,
David.
What are the cabinet dimensions? (unless I'm blind, I couldn't find them on the design page)
What are the tweeter / woofer positions (centre) relative to top of baffle?
and left field....
Zaph,
I'm quite keen on trying a Seas metal cone design - but want a higher efficiency one. Have you considered a 2.5 way or MTM Seas design?
Cheers,
David.
Hello,
Box dimensions are in the enclosure section linked like this:
"[image] - Parts Express .5 cu ft box, w/baffle layout"
I have a 2.5 way TMM design but I haven't given it out because I've never built, tested or listened to it. If you'd like to try it anyway, I could post it, but no guarentees. Of course, I have no guarentees on any of my projects, LOL.
[/image]
Box dimensions are in the enclosure section linked like this:
"[image] - Parts Express .5 cu ft box, w/baffle layout"
I have a 2.5 way TMM design but I haven't given it out because I've never built, tested or listened to it. If you'd like to try it anyway, I could post it, but no guarentees. Of course, I have no guarentees on any of my projects, LOL.
[/image]Hi John,
I built a set of your L18's and just sent you a picture a few days ago. I would be willing to try a 2.5 TMM design of yours. I've been looking for something else to build and I like your designs very much. My L18's are wonderful. (Wish I had the equipment to measure them like you have.)
Thanks and best regards and happy holidays!
I built a set of your L18's and just sent you a picture a few days ago. I would be willing to try a 2.5 TMM design of yours. I've been looking for something else to build and I like your designs very much. My L18's are wonderful. (Wish I had the equipment to measure them like you have.)
Thanks and best regards and happy holidays!
[image]Zaph said:Hello,
Box dimensions are in the enclosure section linked like this:
"[image] - Parts Express .5 cu ft box, w/baffle layout"
I have a 2.5 way TMM design but I haven't given it out because I've never built, tested or listened to it. If you'd like to try it anyway, I could post it, but no guarentees. Of course, I have no guarentees on any of my projects, LOL.
Hi John,
would such a 2.5 way also work when the second L18 is replaced with a L26 from Seas?
I've already built enclosures for these, now they are playing as a subwoofer with my monitors which is a waste of the beautifull units.
The built enclosures are 32 cm wide and 75 cm high.
best regards,
Paul[/image]
[image]Zaph said:Hello,
Box dimensions are in the enclosure section linked like this:
"[image] - Parts Express .5 cu ft box, w/baffle layout"
I have a 2.5 way TMM design but I haven't given it out because I've never built, tested or listened to it. If you'd like to try it anyway, I could post it, but no guarentees. Of course, I have no guarentees on any of my projects, LOL.
John,
I wouldn't mind having a look at that TMM design, If you don't end up posting it is there any chance you could email it to me?
Thanks,
Jason
jaybrandt@hotmail.com[/image]
I almost forgot to post this for you guys.
Here's the image:
L18 / 27TBFCG TMM crossover
Build it with the same baffle width and driver locations, and just stick the 2nd woofer below the 1st. I think with this design, I'd go for a bit more volume if you're building from scratch, like maybe .65 cu ft per woofer and tune the port 3hz lower.
Looking at this crossover, I kinda see why I never published it. It lacks the elegant simplicity of the TM version. It uses the brute force method of making the woofers behave. Not only is it complex, but it's going to be expensive as hell because low dcr inductors are required. You have to meet or beat the dcr values in the woofer circuit. I don't design this way to often - I cheap out when possible in the crossover. But if I recall (from 2003 when I did this) the design needed low dcr all around to work well.
It's a full baffle step design with relatively high output, suitable for medium to larger rooms, and at least a few feet away from corners or walls. Sensitivity is roughly 87 or 88dB. Impedance is a solid 4 ohms nominal with a minimum of 3 ohms in the midbass. This would probably work with a tube amp if it had 4 ohm taps. It hasn't been tested, so build at your own risk. But if you do, be sure to send me a picture.
Here's the image:
L18 / 27TBFCG TMM crossover
Build it with the same baffle width and driver locations, and just stick the 2nd woofer below the 1st. I think with this design, I'd go for a bit more volume if you're building from scratch, like maybe .65 cu ft per woofer and tune the port 3hz lower.
Looking at this crossover, I kinda see why I never published it. It lacks the elegant simplicity of the TM version. It uses the brute force method of making the woofers behave. Not only is it complex, but it's going to be expensive as hell because low dcr inductors are required. You have to meet or beat the dcr values in the woofer circuit. I don't design this way to often - I cheap out when possible in the crossover. But if I recall (from 2003 when I did this) the design needed low dcr all around to work well.
It's a full baffle step design with relatively high output, suitable for medium to larger rooms, and at least a few feet away from corners or walls. Sensitivity is roughly 87 or 88dB. Impedance is a solid 4 ohms nominal with a minimum of 3 ohms in the midbass. This would probably work with a tube amp if it had 4 ohm taps. It hasn't been tested, so build at your own risk. But if you do, be sure to send me a picture.
Hi Zaph,
I really appreciate the time you've taken to respond to what I thought was a real left field question.
I'll study the crossover in more detail. I'm quite keen on building the TMM version. Just have to move into a new house and do a few things, but will put it on my next project list.
Thanks very much,
David.
I really appreciate the time you've taken to respond to what I thought was a real left field question.
I'll study the crossover in more detail. I'm quite keen on building the TMM version. Just have to move into a new house and do a few things, but will put it on my next project list.
Thanks very much,
David.
Hi Zaph,
Just noticed there's a 112 uF cap (C6) on the woofer circuit.
Could you get away with a bi-polar cap (paralleled with some polyprop caps to make up the 112 uF?)
I've read never to use bi-polar caps in speaker crossovers, but since it isn't in the signal path, wondered if it made less or no difference?
Thanks,
David.
Just noticed there's a 112 uF cap (C6) on the woofer circuit.
Could you get away with a bi-polar cap (paralleled with some polyprop caps to make up the 112 uF?)
I've read never to use bi-polar caps in speaker crossovers, but since it isn't in the signal path, wondered if it made less or no difference?
Thanks,
David.
Hi,
Its certainly the brute force and ignorance method compared to the
rather elegant use of an elliptic (electrically) type approach in the MT.
C6 ~(with R7) I particularly don't like the look of.
Also note Zaph is describing a L18 TMM, not about adding the L26.
Adding the L26 is a different bowl of cherries though with possibly
some adjustment to L9 it should work as the sensitivitities of the
L26 is similar to the L18. Exploiting the full power handling of the
L26 when it is in parallel with the L18 is not going to be easy.
You could search and find Zaph's reduced baffle step version
(so it wil have higher sensitivity but needs low bass reinforcement)
of the MT and then try and add the L26 to that design instead.
/sreten.
Its certainly the brute force and ignorance method compared to the
rather elegant use of an elliptic (electrically) type approach in the MT.
C6 ~(with R7) I particularly don't like the look of.
Also note Zaph is describing a L18 TMM, not about adding the L26.
Adding the L26 is a different bowl of cherries though with possibly
some adjustment to L9 it should work as the sensitivitities of the
L26 is similar to the L18. Exploiting the full power handling of the
L26 when it is in parallel with the L18 is not going to be easy.
You could search and find Zaph's reduced baffle step version
(so it wil have higher sensitivity but needs low bass reinforcement)
of the MT and then try and add the L26 to that design instead.
/sreten.HI
if you really want to add L26 I can give you crossover design from Tony Gee but it wasn't meassuerd!
It is design with his DD8mkII system. I build it and have to say that it plays better with original L18(H1142) not the newer H1224.
If you really want send me email and I will send it at the end of this week.
if you really want to add L26 I can give you crossover design from Tony Gee but it wasn't meassuerd!
It is design with his DD8mkII system. I build it and have to say that it plays better with original L18(H1142) not the newer H1224.
If you really want send me email and I will send it at the end of this week.
Hi Sreten and Kyselem,
thanks for thinking with me! I'm still in the brainstorm phase for the new speakersystem, this is going to take a loooong time.
Kyselem, if you would send me the design I'd appreciate very much, thanks in advance!
Cannot find your email here, so I'll give you mine instead:
paulalderliesten @ hotmail.com
thanks for thinking with me! I'm still in the brainstorm phase for the new speakersystem, this is going to take a loooong time
. Kyselem, if you would send me the design I'd appreciate very much, thanks in advance!
Cannot find your email here, so I'll give you mine instead:
paulalderliesten @ hotmail.com
Thanks sreten - you make a good point.
Didn't the H1224 come out in 2004? (hence after Zaph did his TMM design)?
Zaph - can you please confirm which L18 version you did the TMM on?
(Looks like I'll be building the TM version for now... unless a TMM 2.5 way could be designed with the H1224.)
Cheers,
David.
Didn't the H1224 come out in 2004? (hence after Zaph did his TMM design)?
Zaph - can you please confirm which L18 version you did the TMM on?
(Looks like I'll be building the TM version for now... unless a TMM 2.5 way could be designed with the H1224.)
Cheers,
David.
sreten said:
Hi, begs the question ... which L18 is the TMM design for ...
Good point. You guys are on top of things, that TMM design I posted above was for the H1224. That means I didn't design it in 2003, it had to be 2004.
I think Seas came out with the H1224 late in 2003, but I waited forever for Madisound to get it in stock. I didn't want to do a 2-way with the H1142.
In the efforts of simplifying the TMM 2.5 way Zaph designed....
What would happen if you took the original woofer circuit in the TM design - and duplicated this circuit for the second woofer, increasing the series inductor for W2 to allow for BSC?
Impedance doesn't change significantly through the xover region so I'd expect the crossover point to stay as designed. Modeled phase alignment seems to hold true (well consistent with what speaker workshop predicts of on the original TM). Minimum impedance (not shown) is approx 3.3 ohms around the 100-200 Hz region.
Have a look at the following, and please feel free to point my lack of knowledge / ignorance (I'm just learning!).
Thanks,
David.
What would happen if you took the original woofer circuit in the TM design - and duplicated this circuit for the second woofer, increasing the series inductor for W2 to allow for BSC?
Impedance doesn't change significantly through the xover region so I'd expect the crossover point to stay as designed. Modeled phase alignment seems to hold true (well consistent with what speaker workshop predicts of on the original TM). Minimum impedance (not shown) is approx 3.3 ohms around the 100-200 Hz region.
Have a look at the following, and please feel free to point my lack of knowledge / ignorance (I'm just learning!).
Thanks,
David.
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