----------------------------1,To buy something
2,Cable and connector -----------3,Insert Cable ----------4,dalbo
4,Two connector ,face to face ----5, cut in on if wrong ----6,test
2,Cable and connector -----------3,Insert Cable ----------4,dalbo
4,Two connector ,face to face ----5, cut in on if wrong ----6,test
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Re: i neeeeeed those 
I don't know,sorry,I find it in market,a small shop , in Guangzhou.
I have never leave China.
declined said:Aaaah! I need some of those cables/connectors!
But where to find them?
Is there anyone out there who knows where to order such parts in Europe? (I'm from Belgium) ... Maybe there are companies from which you can order online?
All info more than welcome
I don't know,sorry,I find it in market,a small shop , in Guangzhou.
I have never leave China.
Same question here - is soldering needed?
Yeah I would like to know the same thing before spending $239 on a Dell E151FP 15" 1024x768 TFT LCD, next week. If soldering is an issue at all, then I need an electronics friend of mine to get invlolved. The results by ywh are so impressive that I cannot wait to get my LCD.
Yeah I would like to know the same thing before spending $239 on a Dell E151FP 15" 1024x768 TFT LCD, next week. If soldering is an issue at all, then I need an electronics friend of mine to get invlolved. The results by ywh are so impressive that I cannot wait to get my LCD.
flaltflex or laminated cable
Molex is the maker of laminated or flatflex cable (sold at Digi-Key, all electronics and Mouser)
Parlex is the maker of the board connectors (sold: see abov)
be very very attentive when you order cable and connectors, there so many different kinds with just a tiny difference that it is really A JOB to find the right one! also reference # on the cables coming from supplier A ingeneral do not match the ref # from supplier B
trust me, i have been there, done that (see my postings on this forum and on the yahoo group lcd projector)
Molex contact person is Mike Birch (he prefers email, and don't ask him stupid questions, he generally deals with quantities starting at 100k pieces!!!!)
LaserLine said:
Molex is the maker of laminated or flatflex cable (sold at Digi-Key, all electronics and Mouser)
Parlex is the maker of the board connectors (sold: see abov)
be very very attentive when you order cable and connectors, there so many different kinds with just a tiny difference that it is really A JOB to find the right one! also reference # on the cables coming from supplier A ingeneral do not match the ref # from supplier B
trust me, i have been there, done that (see my postings on this forum and on the yahoo group lcd projector)
Molex contact person is Mike Birch (he prefers email, and don't ask him stupid questions, he generally deals with quantities starting at 100k pieces!!!!)
cable extension !!!
Boys, i have tried a lot in this field while being here and before.
it is not evident to extend laminated cable.
Most of the time the configuration ( signal strength) is designed to reach across the original cable length of a few inches.
The thing that ywh did was a lucky shot or he altered the signal strength at the same time!
Just a few days ago i was looking at renovation of an office for a ceo where a panel was being placed in a real wooden Picture frame! The whole was being supervised by 2 electronic engineers.
when the alteration was done) and the board including converter had been disguised away from the glass panel, they only had half a screen visible! one of the laminated cables they had extended was TOO LONG!!!! Later they found out that the original cable could only be as long as 2.5 inches (the lcd panel was a Sylvania 17" from Costco!)
don't tell me I did not warn you guys!
Jean-Pierre
Boys, i have tried a lot in this field while being here and before.
it is not evident to extend laminated cable.
Most of the time the configuration ( signal strength) is designed to reach across the original cable length of a few inches.
The thing that ywh did was a lucky shot or he altered the signal strength at the same time!
Just a few days ago i was looking at renovation of an office for a ceo where a panel was being placed in a real wooden Picture frame! The whole was being supervised by 2 electronic engineers.
when the alteration was done) and the board including converter had been disguised away from the glass panel, they only had half a screen visible! one of the laminated cables they had extended was TOO LONG!!!! Later they found out that the original cable could only be as long as 2.5 inches (the lcd panel was a Sylvania 17" from Costco!)
don't tell me I did not warn you guys!
Jean-Pierre
desolder?
a true flatflex or laminated cable cannot be soldered...
only a connector can connect 2 cables , like i or YWH did
put 2 cables (naked sides) against eachother and then push them inside a connector.. with a bit of luck the poles will touch eachother! with a bit of LOTS OF LUCK!!!!!
no soldering, the laminate melts right away and crimp in in all directions.
a true flatflex or laminated cable cannot be soldered...
only a connector can connect 2 cables , like i or YWH did
put 2 cables (naked sides) against eachother and then push them inside a connector.. with a bit of luck the poles will touch eachother! with a bit of LOTS OF LUCK!!!!!
no soldering, the laminate melts right away and crimp in in all directions.
Re: desolder?
No,the white laminated cable cannot be soldered, but the brown laminated cable can be soldered,look your LCD panel,the brown laminated cable had been soldered.
but,remember,you need a thermostat.
not with a bit of luck ,test every polesof the cables and connector ,if it is no resistance ,100% successful!
uvodee said:
No,the white laminated cable cannot be soldered, but the brown laminated cable can be soldered,look your LCD panel,the brown laminated cable had been soldered.
but,remember,you need a thermostat.
not with a bit of luck ,test every polesof the cables and connector ,if it is no resistance ,100% successful!
brown cable
that brown cable is a film sheet, (ex 3M) and indeed may be a bit more heat resistant, but i sure would not exceed the 15 watts
soldering gun. and still I would prefer a different connection.
youare dealing here with between 16 and 30 poles!!! and i guess within one inch (i supose 20 mm just like i had) try getting that many poles together on such a small base with such a small spacing
like i said , i was lucky and you all will need lots and lots of luck
that brown cable is a film sheet, (ex 3M) and indeed may be a bit more heat resistant, but i sure would not exceed the 15 watts
soldering gun. and still I would prefer a different connection.
youare dealing here with between 16 and 30 poles!!! and i guess within one inch (i supose 20 mm just like i had) try getting that many poles together on such a small base with such a small spacing
like i said , i was lucky and you all will need lots and lots of luck
I do this on printers flex cables lots of times. Make one good printer from two or three dead ones. Sometimes I need to solder one in, check it, try another board. One flex can take 4 or 5 resolders before being too bad to reuse..
The brown ones are Ok to solder. I have my 25 watt antex on a variac. Just enough heat to do it but not too cold otherwise heats cable but does not melt solder. Get an old printer. Practice on that first.
What you need is extra good light and high power magnifier glass. I use my brothers video camera onto a monitor. I can see a 20 pin cable across the whole screen. Thats the secret. Being able to see what you are doing.
You need a steady hand. Best to have a guide to help. Put iron on guide, pivot to correct place, press down. One second is enough time. Use a toothpick to position/press wires down, helps a lot.
If I was doing an LCD I would not use a flex cable. Usual LCD interconnect cable is like this.
Signal ground signal ground signal ground etc.
This is to stop crosstalk from one signal cable to another. Make the flex cable longer adds extra capacitance. IC cannot drive extra capacitance. Has enough trouble driving circuit as is. I would use vey thin separate wires. Just long enough to move electronics out of the light path. Dont bind them all together to make it look neat. Adds capacitance. Leave loose. Biggest problem is mechanical. The side board for row drive and the top board for column drive have hundreds of very thin connections (unless COG) so boards need support or if not, handle carefully otherwise tears out connections. Has happened before. Search for viewsonic. Video LCD Projector part 1 has a lot about it.
The brown ones are Ok to solder. I have my 25 watt antex on a variac. Just enough heat to do it but not too cold otherwise heats cable but does not melt solder. Get an old printer. Practice on that first.
What you need is extra good light and high power magnifier glass. I use my brothers video camera onto a monitor. I can see a 20 pin cable across the whole screen. Thats the secret. Being able to see what you are doing.
You need a steady hand. Best to have a guide to help. Put iron on guide, pivot to correct place, press down. One second is enough time. Use a toothpick to position/press wires down, helps a lot.
If I was doing an LCD I would not use a flex cable. Usual LCD interconnect cable is like this.
Signal ground signal ground signal ground etc.
This is to stop crosstalk from one signal cable to another. Make the flex cable longer adds extra capacitance. IC cannot drive extra capacitance. Has enough trouble driving circuit as is. I would use vey thin separate wires. Just long enough to move electronics out of the light path. Dont bind them all together to make it look neat. Adds capacitance. Leave loose. Biggest problem is mechanical. The side board for row drive and the top board for column drive have hundreds of very thin connections (unless COG) so boards need support or if not, handle carefully otherwise tears out connections. Has happened before. Search for viewsonic. Video LCD Projector part 1 has a lot about it.
rxtending laminated cable
well, i have posted pics here and in the yahoogroup, from my crazy adventure and i can tell you that soldering 20 poles on a 16 mm width laminate (each pole is 0.5mm wide as there is 0.5 mm spacing as well) is not ' a piece of cake" and like you said you need a steady hand, drunks and crack addicts are hereby excluded!
anyway , i did indeed forget to mention the magnifying glass, you were right it is elementary , I use one that has 2 clamps,
But..... how would you overcome the weak signal .... is there something like a amp that you can regulate (or a variable ohm) cause i KNOW that the lcd's i have worked on could not be away more than a few inches from the pcb.
well, i have posted pics here and in the yahoogroup, from my crazy adventure and i can tell you that soldering 20 poles on a 16 mm width laminate (each pole is 0.5mm wide as there is 0.5 mm spacing as well) is not ' a piece of cake" and like you said you need a steady hand, drunks and crack addicts are hereby excluded!
anyway , i did indeed forget to mention the magnifying glass, you were right it is elementary , I use one that has 2 clamps,
But..... how would you overcome the weak signal .... is there something like a amp that you can regulate (or a variable ohm) cause i KNOW that the lcd's i have worked on could not be away more than a few inches from the pcb.
The signal is not weak as such. It is designed to drive across the cable. Thing is as I explained if you get a longer flex cable it will have more capacitance and it won't work as you found out. Thats why I would use separate wires. Space them apart a little bit and no extra capacitance so it can still work. These things are designed to do a job. They dont take into account that we might want to lengthen the connecting cable. Have a look at Yander26 post in LCD panels. He lused wires and it worked but he did strike a small problem. The top of the picture was not as bright as the bottom (could be other way around) but he said it was acceptable. And a very good picture.
Thats the same problem those engineers had you mentioned so I am picking making the cable too long will not work properly if at all. It doesnt need to be too long. Just long enough. I have no idea how the gentleman from China got his going with such long cables.
But even so its still a very good way to get a cheap modern LCD panel with 1024 x 768 resolution and 300 :1 contrast ratio with analogue input from your computer.. Some LCD monitors even have composite video in as well but they are more expensive.
Thats the same problem those engineers had you mentioned so I am picking making the cable too long will not work properly if at all. It doesnt need to be too long. Just long enough. I have no idea how the gentleman from China got his going with such long cables.
But even so its still a very good way to get a cheap modern LCD panel with 1024 x 768 resolution and 300 :1 contrast ratio with analogue input from your computer.. Some LCD monitors even have composite video in as well but they are more expensive.
thoughts on cable manufacture
I've been thinking over the cable extension problem...In my past as a mechanic I came across some "tape" that is used to repair burnt "traces" on the back of modern dashboard components.
Now my thought is that this "tape" could be applied to the sticky side of "fabric based "duct tape". In any number you require (2 inch duct tape would hold loads of this trace tape...then another piece of duct tape placed sticky to sticky on the first piece. This stuff is made out of GOLD as I recall and is prety expensive...but has "extremely low resistance" and is prety flexible. Once its connected and covered with the "guard tape and all is securely held in place you may be able to "roll" it lengthwise (somewhat) then wrap it in shielding. LVDS can go from 60 to 300 CM's from my research. TTL I've see 45 to 60 CM's. The cables I have here from Spectra are all sepperate wires very fine ones, grounds are gathered to a comon point. The whole cable assmbly is wrapped with shielding.
dont know if this helps...just what I've seen and what I'm theorising.
zardoz
I've been thinking over the cable extension problem...In my past as a mechanic I came across some "tape" that is used to repair burnt "traces" on the back of modern dashboard components.
Now my thought is that this "tape" could be applied to the sticky side of "fabric based "duct tape". In any number you require (2 inch duct tape would hold loads of this trace tape...then another piece of duct tape placed sticky to sticky on the first piece. This stuff is made out of GOLD as I recall and is prety expensive...but has "extremely low resistance" and is prety flexible. Once its connected and covered with the "guard tape and all is securely held in place you may be able to "roll" it lengthwise (somewhat) then wrap it in shielding. LVDS can go from 60 to 300 CM's from my research. TTL I've see 45 to 60 CM's. The cables I have here from Spectra are all sepperate wires very fine ones, grounds are gathered to a comon point. The whole cable assmbly is wrapped with shielding.
dont know if this helps...just what I've seen and what I'm theorising.
zardoz
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