Hi
Days ago, I fixed dc-blockers for my BOSOZ and F1 and found that they were working well (reference thread: Forte Audio 1a). And, I got real effect much better than other tweaks with quality of wires or components.
Therefore, I am going to make, say, a dc-filtering-ac-supply-station as shown below. The chassis will be of aluminum and will be directly connected to the earth. This station will cover Pass F1, BOSOZ, CD player and DVD projector.
Do you have any opinion or advice?
Particularly, regarding !!! SAFETY !!! of life. . .
Regards
jH
Days ago, I fixed dc-blockers for my BOSOZ and F1 and found that they were working well (reference thread: Forte Audio 1a). And, I got real effect much better than other tweaks with quality of wires or components.
Therefore, I am going to make, say, a dc-filtering-ac-supply-station as shown below. The chassis will be of aluminum and will be directly connected to the earth. This station will cover Pass F1, BOSOZ, CD player and DVD projector.
Do you have any opinion or advice?
Particularly, regarding !!! SAFETY !!! of life. . .
Regards
jH
Attachments
Hi, JH,
How are you 😀
I just replace the cap for my bench drill machine, the cap is something like 10uF, 400VAC. Some of the proamps with SMPS also got cap in their AC input, but not that size (10.000uF), I think. Is it OK to put 50VDC cap for 220VAC?
How are you 😀
I just replace the cap for my bench drill machine, the cap is something like 10uF, 400VAC. Some of the proamps with SMPS also got cap in their AC input, but not that size (10.000uF), I think. Is it OK to put 50VDC cap for 220VAC?
The voltage over the capacitor is only few volts.
Here's how I built my dc blocker (which turned out to be useless). Home made circuit board with thick and wide traces.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11730&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=2
Here's how I built my dc blocker (which turned out to be useless). Home made circuit board with thick and wide traces.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11730&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=2
Here is a few gadgets for cleaning up the AC supply. Just scroll down the page😉
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=12
Just for inspiration. With schematics.
Steen🙂
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=12
Just for inspiration. With schematics.
Steen🙂
Hi Lumanauw
I'm fine thanks 😀
The bigger, the berrerrrrrrrr . . . . . . maybe.
The polarized electrolytic capacitor doesn't like to see overvoltage or reversevoltage. If capacitor sees the overvoltage or the reversevoltage, it becomes hot temper, and boils the yellow blood inside, and gets high blood pressure, and BAM !!!!!!! Meanwhile, the barrier potential of the bridge diode is about 0.7V. Luckily, the capacitor hardly see voltages higher than +/- 0.7V in this case. -- my hope[i/]
Question: how much reversevoltage we could safely ignore?
Lumanauw, this is your homework. Solve it and tell me 😀
Regards
jH
Thanks, Diar and steenoe.
I'm fine thanks 😀
The bigger, the berrerrrrrrrr . . . . . . maybe.
The polarized electrolytic capacitor doesn't like to see overvoltage or reversevoltage. If capacitor sees the overvoltage or the reversevoltage, it becomes hot temper, and boils the yellow blood inside, and gets high blood pressure, and BAM !!!!!!! Meanwhile, the barrier potential of the bridge diode is about 0.7V. Luckily, the capacitor hardly see voltages higher than +/- 0.7V in this case. -- my hope[i/]
Question: how much reversevoltage we could safely ignore?
Lumanauw, this is your homework. Solve it and tell me 😀
Regards
jH
Thanks, Diar and steenoe.
Hi,
if you want even more effect you could try ac-balanced-power combined with the dc-filters.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=21802&highlight=
William
if you want even more effect you could try ac-balanced-power combined with the dc-filters.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=21802&highlight=
William
Hi Wuffwaff
The ac-balanced-power is intersting.
By the way, I think that the dc-filtering does the ac-balancing at the same time. Doesn't it . . . ?
Regards
jH
The ac-balanced-power is intersting.
By the way, I think that the dc-filtering does the ac-balancing at the same time. Doesn't it . . . ?
Regards
jH
Hi,
if you mean that after balancing the dc out of the mains is also removed you´re right.
William
if you mean that after balancing the dc out of the mains is also removed you´re right.
William
Hi,
I do not like your lack of mains isolation inside that metal box!!!.
Are you using mains rated input and output connectors? They look like screw locked DIN plugs,
You have a lot of exposed and/or uninsulated connections inside the box. It looks unsafe to my eye.
Have you connected the DC blocking capacitors in the neutral line or the live line? One is at 220Vac and the other is nearly zero Vac.
I would prefer that all the blocking was done on the neutral line.
What capacitor values did you finally choose?
Can you post a final schematic?
I do not like your lack of mains isolation inside that metal box!!!.
Are you using mains rated input and output connectors? They look like screw locked DIN plugs,
You have a lot of exposed and/or uninsulated connections inside the box. It looks unsafe to my eye.
Have you connected the DC blocking capacitors in the neutral line or the live line? One is at 220Vac and the other is nearly zero Vac.
I would prefer that all the blocking was done on the neutral line.
What capacitor values did you finally choose?
Can you post a final schematic?
yes, it looks scary. Lots of uninsulated wires soldered p2p inside metal box. Goes tough along the lines what i have seen in S-E Asia, household installations look sometimes !#"%¤& scary. 😀AndrewT said:Hi,
I do not like your lack of mains isolation inside that metal box!!!.
Are you using mains rated input and output connectors? They look like screw locked DIN plugs,
You have a lot of exposed and/or uninsulated connections inside the box. It looks unsafe to my eye.
Have you connected the DC blocking capacitors in the neutral line or the live line? One is at 220Vac and the other is nearly zero Vac.
I would prefer that all the blocking was done on the neutral line.
What capacitor values did you finally choose?
Can you post a final schematic?
------
Does it matter if caps are L or N connected? L and N can be swapped any moment by installing wall pluq reverse so it has to be built accordingly.
------
Why four bridges? One would do as well if it has enough high ratings.




Hi
Pls remember that behind the picture, I have a MCB (miniature circuit breaker). I have a life insurance and a lovely wife. And, she has a life insurance and a husband.
The metal box and all metal surfaces are earthed. The inside wires are naked. But, I could have no chance for me to enter inside the box.
Each cap has 10,000uF/50V. Each bridge rectifier has 1,000V/35A rating. I assume that, when the bridge rectifier has forward bias, the forward bias resistance would be ignorable above about 0.6V. Therefore, this dc-blocker could block dc of about max 1.2V. And, the current flow in caps would be low in both forward and reverse bias. Probably, the size of caps might be bigger than necessary.




Never make this. Try to find a professional manufacture and, only if they prove safety, buy it.
Regards
jH
Hi Mzzj,
I had not taken account of plug reversal.
In the UK this cannot happen unless some idiot wires up the plug top with the colour coded wires reversed.
Jh6,
the lid is not earthed. If you dropped this into the box. Life insurance activated.
In UK, best practice is all removable metal panels have an earth connection.
I had not taken account of plug reversal.
In the UK this cannot happen unless some idiot wires up the plug top with the colour coded wires reversed.
Jh6,
the lid is not earthed. If you dropped this into the box. Life insurance activated.
In UK, best practice is all removable metal panels have an earth connection.
Hi Andrew
The lid is also earthed.
The lid + the fixing bolt/nut + chassis is common to the earth line.
Take a close look of the post #11 picture.
Regards
jH
The lid is also earthed.
The lid + the fixing bolt/nut + chassis is common to the earth line.
Take a close look of the post #11 picture.
Regards
jH
Hi,
just after you have removed the last screw and start to lift the lid off with one of those uninsulated wires touching the underside (maybe it broke due to fatigue or old soldering).
Read what I said
And again

just after you have removed the last screw and start to lift the lid off with one of those uninsulated wires touching the underside (maybe it broke due to fatigue or old soldering).
Read what I said
Do not try to defend an unsafe layout.all removable metal panels have an earth connection
And again
Bang!!!the lid is not earthed. If you dropped this into the box


I am not writing to defend unsafe layout.
Risk of electric shock

I am just describing what I have done.
Of course, all should stay away from the box when its inlet plug is connected to the wall outlet.
Regards
jH




I am just describing what I have done.
Of course, all should stay away from the box when its inlet plug is connected to the wall outlet.
Regards
jH


Constuction is best done in a plastic box, with no metal screws showing outside. Non-reversible mains grade connectors are essential too.
Remember also that other people or pets may touch the equipment who do not know the dangers. It must be made safe for all.
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