I need to build a Linn Basik Power Supply to experiment the connection of a Project Speed Box SE to a Linn LP 12 turntable. Can anyone provide me with the circuit and hints on how to build it?
Thank you
Thank you
Rega uses same motor.....
Hi
From some very old notes.....
The Rega uses the same airpax motor as the Linn and the basic PSU used inside the Rega for 220 Volt operation is as follows according to my notes.
Live into a 0.22 MFD cap split in to two legs, one leg to Red windinfg and the other to another 0.22 MFD cap to blue winding.
Grey windings (2 of) are linked together and to neutral.
I played with these caps and found that the quality/type of cap has an audible / perceivable effect....
BTW, I later ran this motor from a Linn Axis PSU.....
Another supply cct is like a Armageddon
Search for Neil Turntable PSU page)
Hi
From some very old notes.....
The Rega uses the same airpax motor as the Linn and the basic PSU used inside the Rega for 220 Volt operation is as follows according to my notes.
Live into a 0.22 MFD cap split in to two legs, one leg to Red windinfg and the other to another 0.22 MFD cap to blue winding.
Grey windings (2 of) are linked together and to neutral.
I played with these caps and found that the quality/type of cap has an audible / perceivable effect....
BTW, I later ran this motor from a Linn Axis PSU.....
Another supply cct is like a Armageddon
Search for Neil Turntable PSU page)
The usual Linn Basik power supply has more component that two caps. What would be the difference?
Besides, I measured the voltage on the blue and red, they are 68V. Do I need a resistor to drop the voltage?
Thank you
Besides, I measured the voltage on the blue and red, they are 68V. Do I need a resistor to drop the voltage?
Thank you
Not sure what you mean then by basic Linn supply has more then 2 caps. I checked with a buddy who used to work for the Linn importer and an independent shop as a technician. His old notes on the Linn psu are: Live direct to red, Live via 0.22 mfd to blue. Grey windings are joined and go to neutral trough another 0.22 MFD cap. Same as Rega iow but different sequence of series connection.
Perhaps Linn may later have added a resistor to further drop voltage and reduce motor vibration. Beware though as the caps and motor windings basically form a filter that reduces the voltage applied to the motor. Adding resistance will change this parameter as well.
Perhaps Linn may later have added a resistor to further drop voltage and reduce motor vibration. Beware though as the caps and motor windings basically form a filter that reduces the voltage applied to the motor. Adding resistance will change this parameter as well.
Or they added a Valhalla like power supply/regenerator... essentially a sinewave generator + a poweramp to give really clean AC power.
I need to build one of these to adapt a 50 Hz Linn motor to our 60 Hz supply here.
dave
I need to build one of these to adapt a 50 Hz Linn motor to our 60 Hz supply here.
dave
LINN AXIS
Tubenut:
Hi Tubenut,
Do you have the schematic of this PSU (LINN AXIS)?
If so, can you please send me a copy?
TIA,
Audiofanatic 😉
Tubenut:
BTW, I later ran this motor from a Linn Axis PSU.....
Hi Tubenut,
Do you have the schematic of this PSU (LINN AXIS)?
If so, can you please send me a copy?
TIA,
Audiofanatic 😉
Axis and valhalla PSU
Sadly I do not have a cct diagram for the Axis PSU. What I used was the real deal, salvaged, it was considered uneconomical to repair but my buddy managed to sort it.
I still have it and keep it as a spare for my Axis I use now.
It is quite complex. If you wish to copy one I could take some pics to give the general idea. If your unit is faulty, check the output devices, the high voltage caps and the 15K resistors. One of the 15K resistors went west on my Axis supply a week or so ago. According to my friend the outputs are the most common failure.
Linn dealers may be able to sell second hand valhalla units taken from decks upgraded to Lingo etc.....
Planet 10, dunno what it would cost but the Origin Live DC kit could also be an option. A friend fitted one to his LP12 and reckons it is fantastic. His was a valhalla deck. Feels it is the best upgrade he has done, better then cartridge changes and OL1 arm to silver arm.....
Sadly I do not have a cct diagram for the Axis PSU. What I used was the real deal, salvaged, it was considered uneconomical to repair but my buddy managed to sort it.
I still have it and keep it as a spare for my Axis I use now.
It is quite complex. If you wish to copy one I could take some pics to give the general idea. If your unit is faulty, check the output devices, the high voltage caps and the 15K resistors. One of the 15K resistors went west on my Axis supply a week or so ago. According to my friend the outputs are the most common failure.
Linn dealers may be able to sell second hand valhalla units taken from decks upgraded to Lingo etc.....
Planet 10, dunno what it would cost but the Origin Live DC kit could also be an option. A friend fitted one to his LP12 and reckons it is fantastic. His was a valhalla deck. Feels it is the best upgrade he has done, better then cartridge changes and OL1 arm to silver arm.....
Re: Axis and valhalla PSU
Only wish i had that kind of budget....
dave
tubenut said:Planet 10, dunno what it would cost but the Origin Live DC kit could also be an option. A friend fitted one to his LP12 and reckons it is fantastic. His was a valhalla deck. Feels it is the best upgrade he has done, better then cartridge changes and OL1 arm to silver arm.....
Only wish i had that kind of budget....
dave
I actually saw a Linn Basik power supply in a second hand shop. It consists of 4 capacitors but I don't know how they were being connected. The shop ask for US$120 for this very old piece of work that I think it is too much therefore I started to look for a DIY.
Another second hand shop told me that the Rega supply can also work 100% with Linn LP12 and the price is more reasonable - at US$40. I intended to buy but don't know if it really works.
The OL DC kit is also in my mind. Yet, what is the draw back on DC motors that made it not very common in turntables? I also noticed that the Gyro from Mitchell Engineering is changing to DC motors recently that I presume they must have overcome some technical issues. Is there any major breakthrough in DC motor technology?
I am still keen in connecting my Project Speed Box SE to the Linn LP12 as a trial. Can Tubenut send me some pictures of the Linn Basik Power Supply? My mailbox is gaomi2001@hotmail.com.
Thank you
Another second hand shop told me that the Rega supply can also work 100% with Linn LP12 and the price is more reasonable - at US$40. I intended to buy but don't know if it really works.
The OL DC kit is also in my mind. Yet, what is the draw back on DC motors that made it not very common in turntables? I also noticed that the Gyro from Mitchell Engineering is changing to DC motors recently that I presume they must have overcome some technical issues. Is there any major breakthrough in DC motor technology?
I am still keen in connecting my Project Speed Box SE to the Linn LP12 as a trial. Can Tubenut send me some pictures of the Linn Basik Power Supply? My mailbox is gaomi2001@hotmail.com.
Thank you
Sorry, I have no basic Linn PSU..... 4 caps? Sounds more like a Valhalla....
I can never get ASCI diagrams right on this forum... Best would be for me to draw and scan.....
I can never get ASCI diagrams right on this forum... Best would be for me to draw and scan.....
I went to the second hand shop that has the Linn Basik Power Supply again. This time, I look more carefully into the circuit and discovered that there are 4 caps on the PCB.
2 x 0.01uF 400V
1 x 0.22uF 400V
1 x 0.22uF 300V
The 2 x 0.01uF are connected to the on/off switch, I think, to suppress sparks. The connection method is the same as tubnet.
I think I hit the jackpot and will try to build one this weekend. Thank you for the support that everyone provided here.
2 x 0.01uF 400V
1 x 0.22uF 400V
1 x 0.22uF 300V
The 2 x 0.01uF are connected to the on/off switch, I think, to suppress sparks. The connection method is the same as tubnet.
I think I hit the jackpot and will try to build one this weekend. Thank you for the support that everyone provided here.
Yeah, quite sure the 0.01 mfd are to supress any arcs on the switch that could cause plops and twacks through the speakers....
Use Poly carb caps or similar for the 0.22. They affect sound quality!!!
Did not like polyester....
Use Poly carb caps or similar for the 0.22. They affect sound quality!!!
Did not like polyester....
I'm not sure what kind of materials are in which brand's caps. Preparing to use: -
RIFA 0.01 uF
Auricap 0.22uF
Are they good for this project?
Catbag
RIFA 0.01 uF
Auricap 0.22uF
Are they good for this project?
Catbag
It is the 0.22 that is important and Auricaps will be very good I would recon. They are polyppropylene and better then polycarbonate. Just thought they may be pricy for the application.....
Calling Audio Fanatic
Hi
My Tech buddy has an axis supply in for repair and he needs to know the value of R1 on the axis PSU. It is burned out to badly and the unit I have is the later version with the varistors.
Anyone know what R1 is on the early version?
Thanks a lot.
Hi
My Tech buddy has an axis supply in for repair and he needs to know the value of R1 on the axis PSU. It is burned out to badly and the unit I have is the later version with the varistors.
Anyone know what R1 is on the early version?
Thanks a lot.
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