It's pretty much done, aside from the back panel (which is still on the drill press). I couldn't resist posting a few pics 😀
I'm running with 42V rails using two MOSFET pairs to keep the heat down a bit. I suppose you could call it the 'medium power' version 😉
I settled with about 180mA bias and it has around 16mV offset on each channel. The sound beats the pants off of my gainclone...sound is very crisp and the bass is much tighter.
Thanks to Rod and everyone else who helped me in any way!
Testing the 1st channel...
Everything mounted...
Boards are mounted upside-down...
Enjoying some music...
I'm running with 42V rails using two MOSFET pairs to keep the heat down a bit. I suppose you could call it the 'medium power' version 😉
I settled with about 180mA bias and it has around 16mV offset on each channel. The sound beats the pants off of my gainclone...sound is very crisp and the bass is much tighter.
Thanks to Rod and everyone else who helped me in any way!
Testing the 1st channel...

Everything mounted...

Boards are mounted upside-down...

Enjoying some music...

Member
Joined 2002
It's actually a soft-start circuit based on ESP's project 39...I just made a second PCB to hold the transformer and some line filter components.
nice. we'll need a p101 dedicated thread soon , theres more and more ppl making them 🙂 . very happy with mine too.
Nice touch with the acrylic plates, Moose.
Threading in alloy is quite easy, though.
Mind if i ask where you attached the rectifier blocks on?
Threading in alloy is quite easy, though.
Mind if i ask where you attached the rectifier blocks on?
WorkingAtHome: The shipping is good if you order enough stuff i.e. ordering at least 4 heatsinks. Otherwise, the shipping might actually be more than your order 
Jacco: You're probably right about the threading...hindsight is 20/20 I suppose 😉
Given that I do have those nice pieces of acrylic there, I was thinking about possibly mounting some LEDs into them to add some glow to the vents instead of mounting a power LED in the front.
As for the rectifier blocks, they are mounted to a brass bar which is mounted on the same bolt as the one holding the toroid in place.

Jacco: You're probably right about the threading...hindsight is 20/20 I suppose 😉
Given that I do have those nice pieces of acrylic there, I was thinking about possibly mounting some LEDs into them to add some glow to the vents instead of mounting a power LED in the front.
As for the rectifier blocks, they are mounted to a brass bar which is mounted on the same bolt as the one holding the toroid in place.
Dalai Lama,
overhere you have Sphinx amplifiers, from the two guys of Siltech cables.
They have been using black acrylic for front plates of their amplifiers for 20 years.
imo, that stuff still looks very elegant, and for diy it is much more userfriendly than alloy.
Another amp brand from the cheese place built entire chassis
with the stuff in the past, Aitos OTL tube amplifiers.
I dont quite get how you will see light from leds mounted on the top of the heatsinks, you are going to fold yourself over the amplifier while listening to music ?
Nice Mallory caps.
overhere you have Sphinx amplifiers, from the two guys of Siltech cables.
They have been using black acrylic for front plates of their amplifiers for 20 years.
imo, that stuff still looks very elegant, and for diy it is much more userfriendly than alloy.
Another amp brand from the cheese place built entire chassis
with the stuff in the past, Aitos OTL tube amplifiers.
I dont quite get how you will see light from leds mounted on the top of the heatsinks, you are going to fold yourself over the amplifier while listening to music ?

Nice Mallory caps.
Jean: It's the newer Rev A boards
Jacco: I agree...a black acrylic front would look awfully nice, but I'm content to do some more listening for a while before changing things up too much 😎
As for the LEDs, if I get some nice high-intensity ones and use a couple of them (perhaps one per piece of acrylic), I should notice some light leaking out of the vents (there are vents on top as well)...at least I hope I would 😀
Oh, and the caps are actually some Aero M caps I got on ebay...they were pulled out of an old strobe light system apparently. I haven't been able to find any datasheets on them (they are HES series according to the markings), but they are working quite nicely regardless.
Jacco: I agree...a black acrylic front would look awfully nice, but I'm content to do some more listening for a while before changing things up too much 😎
As for the LEDs, if I get some nice high-intensity ones and use a couple of them (perhaps one per piece of acrylic), I should notice some light leaking out of the vents (there are vents on top as well)...at least I hope I would 😀
Oh, and the caps are actually some Aero M caps I got on ebay...they were pulled out of an old strobe light system apparently. I haven't been able to find any datasheets on them (they are HES series according to the markings), but they are working quite nicely regardless.
It's a Par Metal chassis (www.par-metal.com). Their prices aren't too bad, and you can get the cases with quite a few options.
The only thing I'd suggest is calling them about availability and pricing...the prices listed on the website are not up-to-date.
The only thing I'd suggest is calling them about availability and pricing...the prices listed on the website are not up-to-date.
Oh Buffalo,
i was just pointing to the versatility of acrylic, not putting an acrylic aura over you.
Aero = Mallory
i was just pointing to the versatility of acrylic, not putting an acrylic aura over you.
Aero = Mallory
Jacco: Huh...I wasn't aware of that (Mallory = Aero)...perhaps now I can find a datasheet (just for the heck of it) 😀
I see that the filtering capacitators are bigger, than the toroidal transformer, how much are they ? ? ?
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