Hi
I pumbed into this DIY kit:
TDA1543 Non-oversampling DAC:
http://www.diyfidelity.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=0_35&products_id=41
The receiver chip used in this kit is a Crystal 8414 and the DAC chip is a Philips TDA1543 (8 connected in parallel).
1 x DAC PCB with digital and optical inputs
1 x 50W toroidal power transformer
ELNA For Audio capacitors
Burr Brown OPA602
It seems like a bargain and what is excellent about it is that all the components are allready soldered so I wouldn't have to worry about that. Tempting...
Could someone tell me more about that DAC design. I'm not interested in poor DAC since I allready have a CDP which I think is very goof.
Even good guesses are appreciated. 🙂
I pumbed into this DIY kit:
TDA1543 Non-oversampling DAC:
http://www.diyfidelity.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=0_35&products_id=41
The receiver chip used in this kit is a Crystal 8414 and the DAC chip is a Philips TDA1543 (8 connected in parallel).
1 x DAC PCB with digital and optical inputs
1 x 50W toroidal power transformer
ELNA For Audio capacitors
Burr Brown OPA602
It seems like a bargain and what is excellent about it is that all the components are allready soldered so I wouldn't have to worry about that. Tempting...
Could someone tell me more about that DAC design. I'm not interested in poor DAC since I allready have a CDP which I think is very goof.
Even good guesses are appreciated. 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here are a few places to read a bit more detailed background. http://diyparadise.com/dackit/dackit.html, http://diyparadise.com/8x1543dac.html,
http://www.scott-nixon.com/dac.htm
Also, try searching for both the TDA1543, TDA1545, and the Crystal 8412 (the predecesor to the 8412). These DACs are all over.
-d
http://www.scott-nixon.com/dac.htm
Also, try searching for both the TDA1543, TDA1545, and the Crystal 8412 (the predecesor to the 8412). These DACs are all over.
-d
I've seen and read bout tDA1543 DACs but I would like to hear opinions about this particular design. Power supplies etc. If some guru would like to examine the DAC photos a little and give an opinion about it. 
It all looks pretty standard. The input cannot offer true 75ohm termination which i've found to be important and the 8414 seems cap coupled to the spdif signal - no transformer or some kind of signal conditioning - IMO, no good.
Lots of individual resistors on the digital signal lines to the individual dacS - never seen this before but possibly a good idea. Ps seems bog standard which means inadequate. No idea how the opamp I/V works.
I see a Garrard 301 mentioned in a post above. My modest attempts with a NOS 1543 delivered a sonic result as far distanced from a good turntable as one can possibly imagine. I only went up to paralelling two but used 4 separate transformers, proper termination and signal conditioning and generally good quality caps. Surprisingly bad sound.
Lots of individual resistors on the digital signal lines to the individual dacS - never seen this before but possibly a good idea. Ps seems bog standard which means inadequate. No idea how the opamp I/V works.
I see a Garrard 301 mentioned in a post above. My modest attempts with a NOS 1543 delivered a sonic result as far distanced from a good turntable as one can possibly imagine. I only went up to paralelling two but used 4 separate transformers, proper termination and signal conditioning and generally good quality caps. Surprisingly bad sound.
Thanks for answers.
I was thinking about the same issues. Power supply is a tricky thing to build without decent measuring equipment. Even the most simple circuit can work totally wrong even if everything seems to be ok.
And how about digital input. How difficult it is to add transformer or some kind of signal conditioning to it? I suppose not.
I suppose this DAC is not totally bad 😀 By making a few small mods it might even be very good. For example transformer could be replaced with batteries and an automatic charger?
I was thinking about the same issues. Power supply is a tricky thing to build without decent measuring equipment. Even the most simple circuit can work totally wrong even if everything seems to be ok.
And how about digital input. How difficult it is to add transformer or some kind of signal conditioning to it? I suppose not.
I suppose this DAC is not totally bad 😀 By making a few small mods it might even be very good. For example transformer could be replaced with batteries and an automatic charger?
Well, I haven't tried the DAC and won't know until I have. Being that I'm no electrician, I can't judge how sound a design is by looking at its components. All I can go by are my ears. And thru experience I have learnt to not believe anyone else's ears. Especially not some reviewer's ears. In some listening test in Stereophile the panel concluded that the CD format is superior to the SACD format, which it should be if we trust the very few scientific tests conducted (and why shouldn't you?). But in the next issue they are back praising the alleged "hi-rez" format. What gives?
Or to put it another way. The SME Model 30 isn't really any better than the Thorens TD-150, save perhaps for bearings and weight. But the bearings you can replace and you can nail the TD-150 to a heavy piece of wood or a brick. (Or you could get a TD-125 from the beginning and not having to bother.) Then all that remains is personal taste. And had I only known how to get rid of the annoying start-up score on the PSX, I wouldn't need another CD player. Of course, by that same token, it doesn't mean the PSX is better than some other CD player. Only that I think so. Or, rather, I think it's just as good. And if everything else is equal I always go with the bargain.
But then you get all the drawbacks of batteries. Personally I don't consider batteries an alternative for anything other than portable gear, and then only because it's the only alternative. To me batteries reek fad, like all the other esoteric stuff that has come and gone over the years. I believe TNT Audio did some test once.
Or to put it another way. The SME Model 30 isn't really any better than the Thorens TD-150, save perhaps for bearings and weight. But the bearings you can replace and you can nail the TD-150 to a heavy piece of wood or a brick. (Or you could get a TD-125 from the beginning and not having to bother.) Then all that remains is personal taste. And had I only known how to get rid of the annoying start-up score on the PSX, I wouldn't need another CD player. Of course, by that same token, it doesn't mean the PSX is better than some other CD player. Only that I think so. Or, rather, I think it's just as good. And if everything else is equal I always go with the bargain.
But then you get all the drawbacks of batteries. Personally I don't consider batteries an alternative for anything other than portable gear, and then only because it's the only alternative. To me batteries reek fad, like all the other esoteric stuff that has come and gone over the years. I believe TNT Audio did some test once.
I dropped an e-mail to the site owner seeing if he could provide any additional info on the design...hopefully he'll reply with something good 😀
The only part of the design which is not obvious from the pic is the I/V converter. My guess is on a textbook opamp circuit. What else can anyone possibly need to know? That the output elcos are Philips?
Hi,DIAR
I guess that the products of DIYfidelity is from China😉 (maybe the mother company is this link ),because I have seen those products(which almost the same) in China and the TDA1543 X8 NOS-DAC kit in this Chinese website before http://www.liteaudio.com/2003-3-23/2003323215041.htm
good luck
X.G.
I guess that the products of DIYfidelity is from China😉 (maybe the mother company is this link ),because I have seen those products(which almost the same) in China and the TDA1543 X8 NOS-DAC kit in this Chinese website before http://www.liteaudio.com/2003-3-23/2003323215041.htm
good luck
X.G.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks for your answers!
I still don't know what to do with this DAC. There are many other options also. For example this Xindak DAC3 which costs only 300 $!
http://www.xindak.com/en/products/productinfo.asp?id=3
There are amazing products in China and they cost amazingly little 😱
I still don't know what to do with this DAC. There are many other options also. For example this Xindak DAC3 which costs only 300 $!
http://www.xindak.com/en/products/productinfo.asp?id=3
There are amazing products in China and they cost amazingly little 😱
DIAR said:
Yes,the price of Chinese DIY stuff is very very very good!😉
I spent less than 25$ for my TDA1543 NOS DAC😎 ... my salary is low as well like that
cheers,
X.G.
Has anyone bought any of the Dac kits from this guy (Yeo)??
http://diyparadise.com/dackit/1545bdackit.html
How was the delivery and any detals on quality and sound of the unit.
http://diyparadise.com/dackit/1545bdackit.html
How was the delivery and any detals on quality and sound of the unit.
I built Doede's 1543 DAC using 8 parralleled 1543's. I also used the reclocker. The IV conversion is by resistor not Op-Amp...I had read where the 1543 does not do well with Op-Amp conversion.
The sub circuits (Reciever chip and reclocker) are powered by four separate Ni-cad packs of 4 cells each. The Dac chips are powered by a 12 volt lead acid battery, regulated down to 8 or nine volts.
When the unit is off, the batteries are charging and when the unit is on, I use the charging current to power a small fan to cool the DAC tower which gets real hot.
The whole project cost maybe $120. I think it sounds wonderful...better than my other DAC which as a kit was more than $1,000.
This is a worthwhile project....
The sub circuits (Reciever chip and reclocker) are powered by four separate Ni-cad packs of 4 cells each. The Dac chips are powered by a 12 volt lead acid battery, regulated down to 8 or nine volts.
When the unit is off, the batteries are charging and when the unit is on, I use the charging current to power a small fan to cool the DAC tower which gets real hot.
The whole project cost maybe $120. I think it sounds wonderful...better than my other DAC which as a kit was more than $1,000.
This is a worthwhile project....
I bought Yeo's 1545 dac kit last month. The assembly was easy and the sound is very good. No active I/V stage so the volume control is up more, but I am very happy. No problems with delivery. I use the dac in my diy Phillips cd-pro2m kit. I connected it with 99.99 silver wire directly from the cd-pro. I also use the +9 supply from the kit for power. I upgraded to the black gates and the cost including shipping was $98.00. I feel it was a good buy. I like the sound better then my Proceed CDD and Audio Note DAC1.1x which is now sold.
Smoke said:
I just got 2 boards in the mail fro him today. The shipping was a little slow, but this was because he was out of stock, so I can't complain about that. At any rate, Yeo was very friendly and easy to deal with. I'll report back once they are assembled.
-d
Paralleling
Hi,
I'm a newby in digital stuff. So please forgive me if this is a daf qestion. What is the sonic benefit of parallelling DACs? Is it to retrive the most accurate information by comparing to output from the DACs? If this is the case, can I parallel with almost any DACs. For example, will it work if I substitute the TDAs in this schematic with AD1865?
Cheers,
K K
Hi,
I'm a newby in digital stuff. So please forgive me if this is a daf qestion. What is the sonic benefit of parallelling DACs? Is it to retrive the most accurate information by comparing to output from the DACs? If this is the case, can I parallel with almost any DACs. For example, will it work if I substitute the TDAs in this schematic with AD1865?
Cheers,
K K
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