Materials:
-Lilliput 7" XGA (Got touchscreen cheaper than one without, hope I can remove it)
-60mm x 192mm fl objective from sciplus.org
-200mm fl front and rear fresnals from DIYBuildergroup.com
-88mmdia x 110mm fl condensor and 55mm dia x 35mm fl sperical reflector from
Anchor Optics
-Icecap Ballast and Osram Powerstar HQI 250 W/D UVS
5100k, 90cri, 20,000hrs, 1500 lumens
All shots taken with a polaroid PDC 2300Z 3.2MP unedited and saved thru Adobe Photoshop as .JPG images
-Lilliput 7" XGA (Got touchscreen cheaper than one without, hope I can remove it)
-60mm x 192mm fl objective from sciplus.org
-200mm fl front and rear fresnals from DIYBuildergroup.com
-88mmdia x 110mm fl condensor and 55mm dia x 35mm fl sperical reflector from
Anchor Optics
-Icecap Ballast and Osram Powerstar HQI 250 W/D UVS
5100k, 90cri, 20,000hrs, 1500 lumens
All shots taken with a polaroid PDC 2300Z 3.2MP unedited and saved thru Adobe Photoshop as .JPG images
I will be posting some test bench pics
First up,
Full bench,
That is not the Icecap Ballast and HQI bulb, by the way, I hope I can get some of the same results with it. I was just getting my reflector and condensor distances straightened out first. Got some good results with just a 75 watt incandescant desklamp.
First up,
Full bench,
That is not the Icecap Ballast and HQI bulb, by the way, I hope I can get some of the same results with it. I was just getting my reflector and condensor distances straightened out first. Got some good results with just a 75 watt incandescant desklamp.
Attachments
Nothing was staked down or precisely placed. I just eye-balled it all in line and made small adjustments until I got tis image on the wall. The paper has light blue graph lines in it. I figure this is pretty good detail for a 75W house bulb and eye-balled centerline! The detail is actually a little finer and I can even see some of the wrinkles in the testscreen. I'm not a very good photographer, and I don't have a tripod so I am moving a little. (tried holding my breath a-la Splinter Cell; worked a little bit)
Screenshot
Screenshot
Attachments
I gotta start tearing down-- or should I say strip the LCD. Prolly start that Wednesday. Don't have a lot of time between working midnites, and some afternoons doing something else, and trying to get some Zzzz's before the next midnite shift.
BIG PROBLEM!
So I got everything setup last nite and it worked perfectly!. except I realized, it wasn't as bright as it should be. So today, I re-re-design my light box to get it within spec, and I put it all back on the bench to test the new distances to start buiding my box. And now the panel has no power! I mean the standby light won't even illuminate! So much for having my 119" screen in time for the Super Bowl! ****!
So I got everything setup last nite and it worked perfectly!. except I realized, it wasn't as bright as it should be. So today, I re-re-design my light box to get it within spec, and I put it all back on the bench to test the new distances to start buiding my box. And now the panel has no power! I mean the standby light won't even illuminate! So much for having my 119" screen in time for the Super Bowl! ****!
Problem solved!
EVERYONE: CHECK THE ORINTATION ON THOSE FFC CABLES BEFORE YOU GO OUT AND GET ANOTHER ONE ( thanx ACE!)
I was bound and determined to get this thing working tonight to meet my superbowl deadline and I found the problem. I first lightly filed the FFC from the button panel to the mian controller board. Then I noticed there were 14 pins on the connecter on the button panel. There are only 13 pins on the cable. You have to make sure you have the cable going into the right set of pins.if you have the wrong one open the entire LCD will not operate.
I was certain the controller board was zonked. ACE suggested that I check the cables again. I had already took my meter to them and I was getting values on both ends of the cable so I ruled it out.
Ace suggested that I check at the back of the connecters instead. I kept getting problems at those end leads. So I lightly filed the cable. Nothing... then I counted the leads and that's when I noticed that there was one more lead on the connecter than the cable. So I tried it on one side, nothing.. tried it on the otherside and, Vóila! A working LCD!
Lost a few hours but I still can make it! 😎
Steamer
( colors are washed out because of the extra light fro the light engine that has not been corraled)
EVERYONE: CHECK THE ORINTATION ON THOSE FFC CABLES BEFORE YOU GO OUT AND GET ANOTHER ONE ( thanx ACE!)
I was bound and determined to get this thing working tonight to meet my superbowl deadline and I found the problem. I first lightly filed the FFC from the button panel to the mian controller board. Then I noticed there were 14 pins on the connecter on the button panel. There are only 13 pins on the cable. You have to make sure you have the cable going into the right set of pins.if you have the wrong one open the entire LCD will not operate.
I was certain the controller board was zonked. ACE suggested that I check the cables again. I had already took my meter to them and I was getting values on both ends of the cable so I ruled it out.
Ace suggested that I check at the back of the connecters instead. I kept getting problems at those end leads. So I lightly filed the cable. Nothing... then I counted the leads and that's when I noticed that there was one more lead on the connecter than the cable. So I tried it on one side, nothing.. tried it on the otherside and, Vóila! A working LCD!
Lost a few hours but I still can make it! 😎
Steamer
( colors are washed out because of the extra light fro the light engine that has not been corraled)
Attachments
So how is the picture ?
So how is the picture ?
Is it worth the build?
I wan't to make a Lilliput also, but want to make sure the Res is there before I spend the dough.
;P
So how is the picture ?
Is it worth the build?
I wan't to make a Lilliput also, but want to make sure the Res is there before I spend the dough.
;P
The picture from these lilliputs are awesome. Have a look in ACE's thread
He may have posted a few pics by now, as he does a lot of extensive research and development. but there are a lot of guys using this LCD. I-Eat-Flowers being one of them. His post is the one that I tried to link to. He has his own thread too.
Hope this helps.
Later...
Steamer
He may have posted a few pics by now, as he does a lot of extensive research and development. but there are a lot of guys using this LCD. I-Eat-Flowers being one of them. His post is the one that I tried to link to. He has his own thread too.
Hope this helps.
Later...
Steamer
resolution
The best (and most expensive) Lilliputs have 800 by 480 resolution. So it depends on what you want to do with it: For NTSC TV, VHS tape, and standard DVDs, that is fine. For PAL TV etc, it is a bit too low in the vertical dimension but still quite watchable. For use with a computer, all you will get is VGA resolution.
If you want higher resolution, higher contrast ratio, and quicker response time, then you have to go up to a 15" monitor (1024 by 768 >350:1 contrast <30 msec response time), or a 17" monitor (1280 by 1024 >450:1 contrast <25 msec response time).
The best (and most expensive) Lilliputs have 800 by 480 resolution. So it depends on what you want to do with it: For NTSC TV, VHS tape, and standard DVDs, that is fine. For PAL TV etc, it is a bit too low in the vertical dimension but still quite watchable. For use with a computer, all you will get is VGA resolution.
If you want higher resolution, higher contrast ratio, and quicker response time, then you have to go up to a 15" monitor (1024 by 768 >350:1 contrast <30 msec response time), or a 17" monitor (1280 by 1024 >450:1 contrast <25 msec response time).
PJ on hold...
Another setback.
Now, I know... I know... I'm supposed to take good care of the little VGA controller board, but that thing seem to be indestructible! I mean, I dropped the LCD onto the little board several times, (when I say dropped, I mean it was standing on end in a frame I built and it teetered over) I flipped it back and forth and it still came up when I turned it on.
Then I did it. I was trying to get the final alignment within my cabinet, when I realized I didn't have any room for that little controller board to lay out of the way. Plus I was in a rush because I keep missing my self imposed deadlines. Anywho, yadda,yadda,yadda, It didn't fire up the last time. I saw the little hairline fracture in the little red fixed cable. IT'S DEAD!!!!
I have a friend who took it to work and they are going to try to revive it. meanwhile I am looking to get another LCD. My wife wants a new bedroom set so I have to wait for the funds. Although, I was looking last nite and found some interesting prosppects as alternatives. One example is the HAMI H8001 300:1 contrast xga resolution w/TV tuner. I have seen a DIY PJ using this LCD. It has a couple of boards that need support, but it just might fit into my current cabinet. I would simply need new fresnels cut to the 4:3 aspect. I really did want a widescreen projection but this LCD does not look half bad at all!
Later...
Steamer
Another setback.
Now, I know... I know... I'm supposed to take good care of the little VGA controller board, but that thing seem to be indestructible! I mean, I dropped the LCD onto the little board several times, (when I say dropped, I mean it was standing on end in a frame I built and it teetered over) I flipped it back and forth and it still came up when I turned it on.
Then I did it. I was trying to get the final alignment within my cabinet, when I realized I didn't have any room for that little controller board to lay out of the way. Plus I was in a rush because I keep missing my self imposed deadlines. Anywho, yadda,yadda,yadda, It didn't fire up the last time. I saw the little hairline fracture in the little red fixed cable. IT'S DEAD!!!!
I have a friend who took it to work and they are going to try to revive it. meanwhile I am looking to get another LCD. My wife wants a new bedroom set so I have to wait for the funds. Although, I was looking last nite and found some interesting prosppects as alternatives. One example is the HAMI H8001 300:1 contrast xga resolution w/TV tuner. I have seen a DIY PJ using this LCD. It has a couple of boards that need support, but it just might fit into my current cabinet. I would simply need new fresnels cut to the 4:3 aspect. I really did want a widescreen projection but this LCD does not look half bad at all!
Later...
Steamer
interpolated vrs native resolution
That 8" TV is very good for a small format LCD, but it actually only has 800 by 600 pixels. They can include circuitry to make an LCD "interpolate" any number of pixels received in an input signal, but that doesn't make any more dots on the screen. It actually can introduce some aliasing that shows up as moire patterns in the image. (As a side note: "Interpolation" implies using known points to estimate additional points inbetween. What they are really doing is called "decimation" or "down-sampling": Estimating fewer sample points from a larger data set than can be displayed.)
So when you compare it to other LCDs, it is an 800 by 600 SVGA, not XGA. The price is good for a small format LCD, but you need to think about 15" 1024 by 768 and even 17" 1280 by 1024 450:1 contrast ratio monitors you can get for the same amount!
That 8" TV is very good for a small format LCD, but it actually only has 800 by 600 pixels. They can include circuitry to make an LCD "interpolate" any number of pixels received in an input signal, but that doesn't make any more dots on the screen. It actually can introduce some aliasing that shows up as moire patterns in the image. (As a side note: "Interpolation" implies using known points to estimate additional points inbetween. What they are really doing is called "decimation" or "down-sampling": Estimating fewer sample points from a larger data set than can be displayed.)
So when you compare it to other LCDs, it is an 800 by 600 SVGA, not XGA. The price is good for a small format LCD, but you need to think about 15" 1024 by 768 and even 17" 1280 by 1024 450:1 contrast ratio monitors you can get for the same amount!
So would you recommend the 8 inch or 7 inch lilliput for the projector?
I currently am biding on the 7 inch liliput with the touch screen that is 2,400 x 480.
I currently am biding on the 7 inch liliput with the touch screen that is 2,400 x 480.
which LCD?
The Lilliput is really 800 by 480. They are counting each colored dot. It takes three dots to make one pixel.
So the question is 800 by 600 versus 800 by 480. I am sure you could make a fine video or game projector with either one. The Hami will be 4:3 format, like normal TV. The Lilliput will be a 16:9 format, like HDTV.
I don't have any experience with building small format projectors, so somebody else will have to make a recommendation.
The Lilliput is really 800 by 480. They are counting each colored dot. It takes three dots to make one pixel.
So the question is 800 by 600 versus 800 by 480. I am sure you could make a fine video or game projector with either one. The Hami will be 4:3 format, like normal TV. The Lilliput will be a 16:9 format, like HDTV.
I don't have any experience with building small format projectors, so somebody else will have to make a recommendation.
my advice: go for the HAMI, we have very good experiences with that display in the german and swiss forum, plus the fact that it may fit in your actual case...
you have to extend 2 ribbon cables, but that is no problem, as you can buy them very easily...
here is a shop for you to go to; it is in Germany though but may be he also sells to the US... i would give it a try...
www.gadaffy.ch.vu
you have to extend 2 ribbon cables, but that is no problem, as you can buy them very easily...
here is a shop for you to go to; it is in Germany though but may be he also sells to the US... i would give it a try...
www.gadaffy.ch.vu
I haven't disappeared...
I didn't go for the Hami, no. I didn't get any feedback on it's performance or stripability, so I steered clear. I was really interested in it though because of it's price. The only problem i saw is I really liked the fact that the Lilliput was in a 16:9 native format. Since I have a widescreen formatted TV now, I buy all DVD's in a widescreen format if possible. The Lilli would not have added any black bars, whereas the Hami is native 4:3 or possibly even closer to square being in a SVGA resolution. That is the greatest reason for me personally. Even though the Hami would allow for a bigger screen at the same distances (in theory).
I didn't go for the Hami, no. I didn't get any feedback on it's performance or stripability, so I steered clear. I was really interested in it though because of it's price. The only problem i saw is I really liked the fact that the Lilliput was in a 16:9 native format. Since I have a widescreen formatted TV now, I buy all DVD's in a widescreen format if possible. The Lilli would not have added any black bars, whereas the Hami is native 4:3 or possibly even closer to square being in a SVGA resolution. That is the greatest reason for me personally. Even though the Hami would allow for a bigger screen at the same distances (in theory).
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