Tiny, "cool" new lightbox

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



Dis is the lightbox for ma nu psone-project. 4 ¾” x 4 ¾” x 2 “ (WxLxD)
The components are as follows:
- “stripped” ( removed glass) hqi-t 150 W (Osram)
- “dremeled” par20 dichroic ( cool beam) reflector ( Osram No.: 64836 SP or FL)
- socket GY 6.35 mm
- 1 fan grill 80x80
- brass hinge
- blower ( radial)
- alloy 0.8mm

The advantages are:
- less lcd-heat due to the dichroic reflector
- small dimension
- focusing
- built in uv-stop glass
- high efficiacy (all light goes through the condensor)
- no need for a g12 socket ( saves money)
- no additional ir-filter necessary

costs: around 25 Euro = 30 bucks
- par 20 cool beam = 9 Euro ( german webshop, hard to find)
- hqi-t @ ebay : 13 Euro( regular price around 25-30 Euro)
- blower : nidec gamma 26 = 1,95 Euro( www.pollin.de)
- alloy: left from my lilliput project
- socket gy 6.35 : 1 euro (www.reichelt.de)
-


How to remove the glass of a hqi-t to get this tiny lamp?
Thx to ma friend “bonsaijogi” for the pix:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

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So I got my dremel spinning and removed the base.

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Here you can see the fitting of the „stripped“ HQI-T into the cool-beam-reflector.

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here is an older pic from inside ( with another reflector) just to show the mounting.

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and now .......spot on

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the circle is around 5 ½ inch in a distance of 3 ½ inch where the first fresnel will be placed. ( well that depends on focusing and condensor)

Isn’t it nice?

To be continued............
 
Member
Joined 2004
here we go. i made a first set-up and a psone lcd with all the lights on and no cover of the test set-up. so the room was quite brite. yes, ma cam is shitty. that's unbelieveable, i have a bright, crisp, crystal clear image in the brightened room.
well, here's a pic. i couldn't make mor, coz after 5 minutes the temp was so high i got black spotz on the lcd that i have to switch it off. distance is ~ 100" and the pix diagonal around 60".
lens is a f=9"

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that's the test set-up.

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2003
:att'n: SAFTEY WARNING!!!! :att'n:

:att'n: This is extremely dangerous! :att'n:

The outer envelope is there for a reason, to protect the inner capsule. The slightest scratch, piece of dust or other contamination can cause the inner capsule to explode. This can be violent enough to smash lenses and reflectors, just think what it might do to your hands and face!


:att'n: Don't Do This :att'n:

Trev :cop:
 
Member
Joined 2004
hey trev,

this is not an uhp-lamp though u're right. scratch or fingertip is not good. never touch the bulb with bare hands. wear gloves and a safety spectacle as described.

this lamp is the same osram is selling without the capsule. the type is hti-152 i am using in my lilliput. so i've compared them and found dis out.

yes, it's safer to put them in a box ( as osram also advise for the hti 152 type). mine is encapsuled twice. first is the alloy-box. then it's capsuled in the reflector( round with uv-glass in front) and then comes the condensor.

believe me, i know what i do. well, it's for the hand-skilled, experienced.

a bigger box can be built with a dremeled par 30 and the "unstripped" hqi-t 150. i think mathias did it yet.

so far...trev, you did right to do the warning. i haven't thought of that alot of unskilled people could do ithis. thx for keeping an eye on me ;-)

ief
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2003
Heya Buddy, yeah its definatley for the experienced and daring lol. Its a nice job and great work no doubt about it. Unfortunatley it holds grave dangers to those of us who arent experienced in this feild and to those of us who are ;). Becarful!. Basically one rule to follow, wheather its uhp or not, if its a hid bulb it will go bang. Removing the outer shell increses the risks tremendisly.

Can i get you to please post up a saftey warning next time please buddy? :)

Ive been working on mine as of late trying to squese more light out of things too, well more eficiently like you are doing. I have acomplished my goal, but ofcourse pushing things to its limit has its price.

This is an issue that ive resolved just recently where condensers wouldnt last much longer then 10mins without self destructing, (see pic). The pic is taken as it was after the bang and is 3/4inch thick. Watch out for your reflector, because if its not rated to the wattage of your bulb it can explode.

Notice the impact of things, look at how far back the light box was pushed back, the butt plate blown forward, and the lcd blown forward. Luckily the impact went forward as if it didnt, id be up for a new bulb :dead: .

That condenser is rated for 400watts, the bulb is 250watts, so it just goes to show that even over rating things can be somewhat dangerous when pushing things to its limit. I was also using a dichoric reflector in that setup to cut the heat back from the reflected light.


Trev:)
 

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Member
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hey dude,

k, next time i'll include a safety warning.....and thx for the nice words.

i was happened the same. the first condensor broke( not with a big bang) coz it touched the front-glass of the condensor. the tension due to heating was different. now i have space between uv-glass and condensor.
yeah, the reflector isn't made for hid-lamps. the original bulb in it was a 50 w tungsten-light. in heat comparison it is the same a 150 w hid produces. i tried this several hours yet. a long run test follows.

and to calm you down.....here is a comparison of the genuine osram hti-152 and a stripped osram hqi-t 150.

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instead of stripping u can use the hti-152. it'll fit this reflector also.

ief
 
Member
Joined 2003
ace3000_1: Notice the impact of things, look at how far back the light box was pushed back, the butt plate blown forward, and the lcd blown forward. Luckily the impact went forward as if it didnt, id be up for a new bulb

Damn, that's the one thing I'm afraid of when dealing with the projector bulb. But, I've pretty much read all there is in dealing with bulbs and know what protection I'll need even if doing the light box well within limits but you never know what's going to happen.



Nice light Box I_eat_flowers but ace is right about others moding their bulbs. You like living dangerously :D.
 
Member
Joined 2004
Magnification said:


........well within limits but you never know what's going to happen.


Nice light Box I_eat_flowers but ace is right about others moding their bulbs. You like living dangerously :D.


@magnification:

thx buddy, but i don't like livin dangerously. the same type( osram hti-152) of bulb works in my lilliput since february. sometimes it runs 10 hrs without complaints.
the manufacturer advise( that's a must) to encapsulate the bulb in a proper enclosure. and i did it. it is encapsulated twice:
1st - the reflector
2nd - the light box enclosure and the condensor
3rd - the ir-filter-glass

so i think it is safe nuff.....

my intention was to get as much light as possible like 250W hid.
and i think i got it.

ief.
 
Member
Joined 2004
as promised here some more results after installing the ir-filter.
wow, it's gettin darn hot despite of cold mirror reflector and ir-glass. a good cooling system is unneccessarily needed.

diagonal is 63" at a throw distance of 110".
it wasn't quite dark in the room, as you can see on the 16:9 "black" bars. they are grey. the output of this sytem is amazing.
camera is a kodak cx6200. and this one is normally not proper for takin pictures of a pj. so that must tell the cam it is brite nuff to make a good pic. i've used no tripod. it's a shot made w wacky hands...and in my "lab" is no screen ! the display is a modded psone.
in reality, the hotspot is not seeable.


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a dark scene from ROTK
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and another one
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here's the mounted ir-glass( 12cm x10 cm )
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more to come after finishing of the enclosure in DIY-Projector thread.
 
Member
Joined 2004
I wonder why the HTI has such a short life compared to the HQI.
I think the best way to cool the HTI is indirect flow of air(cool the reflector not the bulb itself)

I am trying to modify a commercial PJ- Compaq mp1800 XGA 800 lm(DLP - it has a better life than the LCD panels).
With 150W halogen i could get an almost decent image but no bigger than 30 "
I am from Romania and i cannot find a CDM-T or HQI-T bulb.
Every dealer want's to sell at least 6 pcs.
Disco shops sell theese lamps at 60 euros(they are crazy !!)
Can anyone help me? I could send money thru Western Union or another way.
Another problem of mine is to focus the light in a window no bigger than small coin.

Please help me because i'm desperate:bawling:
 
Member
Joined 2004
hi alex,

there are two different types of hti. the -150 lasts 750 hrs and the 152 lastst 2.000 hrs.

I am abit doubtful replacing a cdm or hqi in a commercial dlp pj.

Plz hit we with an email. maybe i could be of some help for ya after sorting out the details.

ief.
 
Member
Joined 2004
great !!!
bud what's the input to the lcd rca or vga cause i was thinking abt a pj with that lcd since after all the customs and etc other lcd's just don't work out ..just clear it up for me ..as with diy - we aways get our money worth.... does ps one lcd give good results with a neatly done light engine and optics....?
 
Member
Joined 2004
hi projectile,

thank ya.
it works with rca-input. some fellas got it working with vga ( on ati-cards supporting c-sync). browse the forum for "Psone". there are tons of info and links.
bigger than 60" diagonal shows a screen door effect not bearable. focus abit off and it'll be perfect.
my test components are a 9" objective( clear diameter 2 1/2 "),
fresnel( f=210/210).
 
Member
Joined 2004
Hi,

Can I use the same balast and ignitor for the HQI 150-T and the HTI 152-T?

Also what is the color temp of the powerstar HQI-T ? I can only find 3300k in the UK (Internationallamps.co.uk)!

Thanks in advance,

Tuga
 
Member
Joined 2004
Try Izzotek.com for other source of MH

Tuga

Have a look at:

http://www.izzotek.com/kithqi.htm

They do HSI's for 55 euro's and HQI's for 65 euros. Thats the whole kit, i.e. bulb, ignitor, ballast and ceramic holders. At £38 and £45 respectively, I doubt you will get cheaper in the UK.

I recently purchased their 250W HQI kit along with some optics, They were very courteous, prompt and will definetly use them again.

NB: I'm not on commision, I did a lot of research on getting the best price in Europe and they won hands down. They only site to beat their prices was Gaddafi, but he never has stock.

Hope this helps.
 
Member
Joined 2004
Hi,

Thanks Johnny_alpha!

About the izzotek kit you pointed, its HQI –TS and I need a single ended.

Also I already have ballast, (actually 6 balasts!! anyone needs 1?), ignitor and cap for the HQI 150w.
The only thing I need is the lamp.
But because I’m trying to retrofit it to a commercial projector I need a small lamp.

I_eat_flowers’s idea of stripping a Powerstar HQI-T is perfect but I can’t find it 4200K or higher, only 3300K.
So I was thinking of getting the HTI –152, it's more expensive and less lifehours but would have to do I guess...

Next I will be looking for a par20 cool reflector!
 
Member
Joined 2004
Hi Trev,

They are 145mm l x 65mm w x 50mm h Vossloh schwabe. I only need 2 of them but haven’t thought about the price yet! lol
Probably ½ of what they cost in the shops.
Postage would be at cost (1.8kg=£5) for the UK. I imagine it would be a bit more to Spain…

Although they were sold “as new” old stock, I haven’t got a lamp to test them yet and dont wont to sell them untested. ;)

Teo
 
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