Which Sony laser pick-up is the best so far?
The KSS213 is widely used in most of the CD players.
The KSS240 is a better quality one and is used by Krnell CD player and it is a direct replacement for KSS213 as I understand.
The KSS390 is interesting as it is the only one with a metal housing.
Any more thoughts?
The KSS213 is widely used in most of the CD players.
The KSS240 is a better quality one and is used by Krnell CD player and it is a direct replacement for KSS213 as I understand.
The KSS390 is interesting as it is the only one with a metal housing.
Any more thoughts?
Attachments
Thanks deskmate88
Impressive and a good reference too.
I didn't know there were so much.
As for which one is the best, no idea.
Picture don't show up is a forums behavior to save bandwidth.
Unless you host them on another server and link to them.
/Hugo 🙂
Impressive and a good reference too.
I didn't know there were so much.
As for which one is the best, no idea.
Picture don't show up is a forums behavior to save bandwidth.
Unless you host them on another server and link to them.
/Hugo 🙂
Very interesting , yes.
I had been looking at KSS213F for its plastic dust cover, and generally at getting the best from the KSS laser family.
I had emailed distributors and asked here and there to find no results(except for the "I've been told" or "Looks to me" kind).
like "the higher the letter(closer to Z), it is more compatible to different discs and trays". Which is more or less congruent with the notion that mobile sports cd players use higher letter KSS lasers.
Nothing about its sound quality though, except that "KSS213C is better sounding than KSS213B"...
So far, I have not seen fundamented or reputable info on the KSS family differences.
Interesting you say KSS240 could be compatible and better than any 213.
Even more intriguing is the KSS390. Specially since I've been planning to place some tallish heatsinks on two ICs close to the laser, and with the laser metal housing being probably grounded(How?)...uhmm.
It would be interesting to know anything that prevents unwanted electromagnetics from the sensitive laser.
Thanks already.
I had been looking at KSS213F for its plastic dust cover, and generally at getting the best from the KSS laser family.
I had emailed distributors and asked here and there to find no results(except for the "I've been told" or "Looks to me" kind).
like "the higher the letter(closer to Z), it is more compatible to different discs and trays". Which is more or less congruent with the notion that mobile sports cd players use higher letter KSS lasers.
Nothing about its sound quality though, except that "KSS213C is better sounding than KSS213B"...
So far, I have not seen fundamented or reputable info on the KSS family differences.
Interesting you say KSS240 could be compatible and better than any 213.
Even more intriguing is the KSS390. Specially since I've been planning to place some tallish heatsinks on two ICs close to the laser, and with the laser metal housing being probably grounded(How?)...uhmm.
It would be interesting to know anything that prevents unwanted electromagnetics from the sensitive laser.
Thanks already.
213 vs 240
I now have some more info on this 213 vs 240. I got this from a very experienced design engineer in a DVD/VCD manufacture.
Although 240 is more expensive than the 213, and looks a little bit better built than 213, the 213 is in fact a newer and better pick up. the laser pick up and tracking has been improved quite a bit especially to cope with the VCDs, as some of VCDs are next to improssible to read.
As a result, the 213 is a newer and better pick up than the 240, the reson that the 213 is cheaper is becuase its quantity is much larger than the 240, more than 50x time more, hence the lower price.
BTW, the 213 in his opinion is better than the Philips 120x series. altough the best are still the Philips CDM1 MK2, CDM4 and CDM9.
So for current production, the 213 is the best CD pick up available.
So take your pick ...
I now have some more info on this 213 vs 240. I got this from a very experienced design engineer in a DVD/VCD manufacture.
Although 240 is more expensive than the 213, and looks a little bit better built than 213, the 213 is in fact a newer and better pick up. the laser pick up and tracking has been improved quite a bit especially to cope with the VCDs, as some of VCDs are next to improssible to read.
As a result, the 213 is a newer and better pick up than the 240, the reson that the 213 is cheaper is becuase its quantity is much larger than the 240, more than 50x time more, hence the lower price.
BTW, the 213 in his opinion is better than the Philips 120x series. altough the best are still the Philips CDM1 MK2, CDM4 and CDM9.
So for current production, the 213 is the best CD pick up available.
So take your pick ...
So, what's the best KSS-213 (The A, B, C, D, E, F, Q, R or V)? I have a dead B and a lot of people got dead B D and E
I have no confirmation of this, but I've read that a lower(closer to z) letter will fit any upper, but not viceversa.
At your case, using a Sony KSS-213A won't do, but any other KSS-213-B, KSS-213C, D, etc. will be OK.
This is congruent with the info that portable CD players utilise lower letter lasers, and that those letters would mean increasingly finer/thiner laser beams, so they are better at handling smaller detail...
After all this time, I'd thought a better source of info for such common devices would be found already...
Any help, thanks
At your case, using a Sony KSS-213A won't do, but any other KSS-213-B, KSS-213C, D, etc. will be OK.
This is congruent with the info that portable CD players utilise lower letter lasers, and that those letters would mean increasingly finer/thiner laser beams, so they are better at handling smaller detail...
After all this time, I'd thought a better source of info for such common devices would be found already...
Any help, thanks
CD23T KSS213B replacement
I have a Arcam CD23T with the KSS-213B laser pickup installed. I was experiencing a subtle sonic "ticking", both on CD-R and pressed discs. This lead me to try and clean the lens with a lens cloth, that worked but did not eliminate the problem. I then proceeded to make the slightest adjustments to the pickup via the pot exposed, this worked perfectly eliminating the "ticking". I have read this is the power adjustment for the pickup and that it generally means the laser is on the way out if you need to increase the power. I'm nearing the end of the pot adjustment limit, however still operates fine for the moment. I have taken care not to over increase the power adjustment as best I could.
I have sought a KSS-213B replacement which seem readily available, though no reply yet, I understand it remains a current model.
My question regards the installation and adjustment of the pickup. I have heard talk of CRO use. Any experience/precautions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Arcam CD23T with the KSS-213B laser pickup installed. I was experiencing a subtle sonic "ticking", both on CD-R and pressed discs. This lead me to try and clean the lens with a lens cloth, that worked but did not eliminate the problem. I then proceeded to make the slightest adjustments to the pickup via the pot exposed, this worked perfectly eliminating the "ticking". I have read this is the power adjustment for the pickup and that it generally means the laser is on the way out if you need to increase the power. I'm nearing the end of the pot adjustment limit, however still operates fine for the moment. I have taken care not to over increase the power adjustment as best I could.
I have sought a KSS-213B replacement which seem readily available, though no reply yet, I understand it remains a current model.
My question regards the installation and adjustment of the pickup. I have heard talk of CRO use. Any experience/precautions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi deskmate88,
The KSS-151A and KSS-123A.
The KSS-151A was a great linear tracking type. The KSS-123A had great optics. We laughed at the KSS-150A and it's improved KSS-210A. The KSS-240A is related with some electronics on the head (like the RF section to reduce noise in the signal). Now I would consider them a high end head. 🙁 NEC made some of the best heads, all aluminum with the very best optics.
You have to watch some of the newer ones because they have no sleeve bearing inserts for the slide rail. This is important. Heads like the HOP-M3 need to be replace simply due to excessive wear in that area.
Hi Burt,
I have described to procedure several times. This is not a job for anyone but an experienced technician. Yes, you may mechanically be able to replace it, but you are not doing yourself any favours.
-Chris
The KSS-151A and KSS-123A.
The KSS-151A was a great linear tracking type. The KSS-123A had great optics. We laughed at the KSS-150A and it's improved KSS-210A. The KSS-240A is related with some electronics on the head (like the RF section to reduce noise in the signal). Now I would consider them a high end head. 🙁 NEC made some of the best heads, all aluminum with the very best optics.
You have to watch some of the newer ones because they have no sleeve bearing inserts for the slide rail. This is important. Heads like the HOP-M3 need to be replace simply due to excessive wear in that area.
Hi Burt,
I have described to procedure several times. This is not a job for anyone but an experienced technician. Yes, you may mechanically be able to replace it, but you are not doing yourself any favours.
-Chris
Thanks Chris, absolutely agree, I would only install it if I had no choice, I don't want to do more harm than good.
I'm interested to know what the technician must do however. I'll try to find your descriptions.
Hi Burt,
Thanks. Those are around somewhere. I've just become very tired of retyping the same information.
Even something as simple as the lubricant you use and how much is applied can make a large deference on performance. Most good technicians do this by feel and experience, there is no one lubricant that does all. Bad technicians just think they are good.
-Chris
Thanks. Those are around somewhere. I've just become very tired of retyping the same information.
Even something as simple as the lubricant you use and how much is applied can make a large deference on performance. Most good technicians do this by feel and experience, there is no one lubricant that does all. Bad technicians just think they are good.
-Chris
I found some of your knowledge, I can see why experience is important. The solder tab to be removed, the CRO tuning process, the mechanical adjustments ...
I'm going to search for a useful technician, a good one hopefully 😀
I have the part at least.
Hi Burt,
-Chris
When you find one, keep him. He will save you money and your gear will work to the best of it's ability.
-Chris
My situation thus far,
until I manage to have my new KSS-213B laser pickup installed, I have had a very careful tinker with the pot on the installed pickup. My method was to play discs that I knew were struggling a little. The moderate ticking sound was the key, CD-R discs where worst affected, however some factory pressed discs also. I put these problem discs in and played them, then made a very careful minor adjustment to increase the power, I suspect. Eventually all the discs played without any sign of ticking, and so it continues to this day, problem free.
I have read that this need to increase the power via the pot on the KSS-213B is due to the laser coming to the end of it's life. As I don't have any problem now after adjustment, can I expect the laser to last much longer ?
until I manage to have my new KSS-213B laser pickup installed, I have had a very careful tinker with the pot on the installed pickup. My method was to play discs that I knew were struggling a little. The moderate ticking sound was the key, CD-R discs where worst affected, however some factory pressed discs also. I put these problem discs in and played them, then made a very careful minor adjustment to increase the power, I suspect. Eventually all the discs played without any sign of ticking, and so it continues to this day, problem free.
I have read that this need to increase the power via the pot on the KSS-213B is due to the laser coming to the end of it's life. As I don't have any problem now after adjustment, can I expect the laser to last much longer ?
Hi Burt,
That adjustment should never be touched.
The reason is this. There is a monitor photo diode in the head to provide feedback. It was calibrated via that control at the factory for a certain optical power output. The RF amp compares the photodiode signal and changes the current (and hence the optical power) to correct for temperature and an aging laser diode.
The problem is this. If you start with a low current the head will emit light, but not coherent light. As you increase the current the beam changes and the head then emits a laser beam. This continues until you reach a higher power where the diode fails. This is sudden and irreversible.
A technician may increase the light output for the purpose of determining if there are any other problems other than the head so an accurate estimate can be prepared. Poor quality techs will do this and charge for the "service".
Your head needs replacement now. You can check this for sure by measuring the laser current (normally across a 22 R resistor) and compare it to the value stamped on the side of the head. You are allowed about 10%.
Now for the bad news. Increasing the laser current can mask other problems. So it looks like you found a bad head by increasing the current when in reality you just damaged a good head and covered up another issue. Another reason I hate technicans who are lazy and / or unintelligent.
-Chris
That adjustment should never be touched.
The reason is this. There is a monitor photo diode in the head to provide feedback. It was calibrated via that control at the factory for a certain optical power output. The RF amp compares the photodiode signal and changes the current (and hence the optical power) to correct for temperature and an aging laser diode.
The problem is this. If you start with a low current the head will emit light, but not coherent light. As you increase the current the beam changes and the head then emits a laser beam. This continues until you reach a higher power where the diode fails. This is sudden and irreversible.
A technician may increase the light output for the purpose of determining if there are any other problems other than the head so an accurate estimate can be prepared. Poor quality techs will do this and charge for the "service".
Your head needs replacement now. You can check this for sure by measuring the laser current (normally across a 22 R resistor) and compare it to the value stamped on the side of the head. You are allowed about 10%.
Now for the bad news. Increasing the laser current can mask other problems. So it looks like you found a bad head by increasing the current when in reality you just damaged a good head and covered up another issue. Another reason I hate technicans who are lazy and / or unintelligent.
-Chris
KSS151A
To Chris Anatech
Hi Chris
I got my CD players with that lazer KSS151A broken , I send it to a repair and they told that Lazer is discontinue fron Sony or other cie.
Do you got an isea where I could find one of this KSS151A
Thanks Robert
Regards
To Chris Anatech
Hi Chris
I got my CD players with that lazer KSS151A broken , I send it to a repair and they told that Lazer is discontinue fron Sony or other cie.
Do you got an isea where I could find one of this KSS151A
Thanks Robert
Regards
Hi Robert,
I used to buy them from a great Japanese parts supplier that has since closed. They should be available if you do some hunting around.
Be aware that I've had many CD players in where the head has been condemned when in fact it was the motor at fault. I don't trust most repair shops these days.
Just like the old days. What was the most expensive part broken on a TV set? That's why the estimates always seemed to be the picture tube. A decent shop should know where to get these parts. Bad ones haven't a clue.
-Chris
I used to buy them from a great Japanese parts supplier that has since closed. They should be available if you do some hunting around.
Be aware that I've had many CD players in where the head has been condemned when in fact it was the motor at fault. I don't trust most repair shops these days.
Just like the old days. What was the most expensive part broken on a TV set? That's why the estimates always seemed to be the picture tube. A decent shop should know where to get these parts. Bad ones haven't a clue.
-Chris
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