Hi
I have the chance of buying a really, really cheap CDM-1 based player. The owner tells the player starts spinning the CD the moment power comes on and does nothing else.
Does anybody know what is the most likely the cause of this? Ofcause, the most most important question, is it the laser?
The player in question is a Bang & Olufsen CDX, based on the lovely 14-bit chipset like Marantz CD-73.
Thanks
I have the chance of buying a really, really cheap CDM-1 based player. The owner tells the player starts spinning the CD the moment power comes on and does nothing else.
Does anybody know what is the most likely the cause of this? Ofcause, the most most important question, is it the laser?
The player in question is a Bang & Olufsen CDX, based on the lovely 14-bit chipset like Marantz CD-73.
Thanks
Mmm,
Sounds more like the xtal/decoder. Remember from newer machines with 7210 decoder that the disk starts spinning fast if there is no clock.
Seems the player has lots of problems with solder/pcb's and via's.
Maybe just a bad contact somewhere
If it also spins when the cover is open, it must be in that direction.
Anyway, if it is really really cheap, buy it and take the risk.
It is a nice player (based on philips CD104) and you might be able to repair it with some old philips player with cdm1 or the same chipset. But with some luck it is just bad connection instead of bad component.
Send me a pm for the manual (!) 😉
Got one myself, just for fun. Bought for 15 euro iirc. Somebody
really messed up inside, but i was able to fix it. It sometimes has problems with accessing tracks at the end of a disk and the display is partly broken. But i did not do any adjustments yet, since it is not playing regularly.
Sounds more like the xtal/decoder. Remember from newer machines with 7210 decoder that the disk starts spinning fast if there is no clock.
Seems the player has lots of problems with solder/pcb's and via's.
Maybe just a bad contact somewhere
If it also spins when the cover is open, it must be in that direction.
Anyway, if it is really really cheap, buy it and take the risk.
It is a nice player (based on philips CD104) and you might be able to repair it with some old philips player with cdm1 or the same chipset. But with some luck it is just bad connection instead of bad component.
Send me a pm for the manual (!) 😉
Got one myself, just for fun. Bought for 15 euro iirc. Somebody
really messed up inside, but i was able to fix it. It sometimes has problems with accessing tracks at the end of a disk and the display is partly broken. But i did not do any adjustments yet, since it is not playing regularly.
Hi Guido
So, I'm going to chance it, huh.
I just got a Marantz CD72MKII for cheap. The owner reported it occationaly clicks during playback. So far (2 days) I had no problems, so I'm feelin lucky enough.
I might contact you about the CDX service docs soon.
Thank you!
So, I'm going to chance it, huh.
I just got a Marantz CD72MKII for cheap. The owner reported it occationaly clicks during playback. So far (2 days) I had no problems, so I'm feelin lucky enough.
I might contact you about the CDX service docs soon.
Thank you!
CDX = Philips CD104
Internally this player is a Philips CD 104, many of which exhibit similar problems. I have one of these and from cold it will not read the header from any CD's. However after 30 minutes warm up it reads everything.
I leave mine on all the time, but I know some people are not compfortable with doing this from a safety viewpoint.
There are quite a few threads on this subject. Also the llinks between the top & bottom sides of the boards suffer dry joints and need to be resoldered, though I have not done this. Another possible explanation for my players problems could be that the caps in the servo & laser supplies are just too old, these are 20 year old machinea fter all.
I would reccomend you take the player, the build quality is first rate and the sound is actually pretty fine. I made a few tweaks which are described in one of the threads, after Guido kindly supplied the CDX manual which I can email you if you like.
Internally this player is a Philips CD 104, many of which exhibit similar problems. I have one of these and from cold it will not read the header from any CD's. However after 30 minutes warm up it reads everything.
I leave mine on all the time, but I know some people are not compfortable with doing this from a safety viewpoint.
There are quite a few threads on this subject. Also the llinks between the top & bottom sides of the boards suffer dry joints and need to be resoldered, though I have not done this. Another possible explanation for my players problems could be that the caps in the servo & laser supplies are just too old, these are 20 year old machinea fter all.
I would reccomend you take the player, the build quality is first rate and the sound is actually pretty fine. I made a few tweaks which are described in one of the threads, after Guido kindly supplied the CDX manual which I can email you if you like.
CDX problem... bad rivets
Hi! Usually the rivets (griplets as called by B&O) go bad. Goto beomuse.com and dig around to find a detailed description.
Hi! Usually the rivets (griplets as called by B&O) go bad. Goto beomuse.com and dig around to find a detailed description.
Thomas said:
Hi Thomas,
Did you solve this problem?
I just ran into the same problem yesterday when I connected a new, separate shunt regulated power supply to pin 24 of SAA7220 in my Studer A727 (also with cdm1). In this machine all IC's sit in sockets so it is easy to disconnect the original psu, and vice versa, so I was very relieved to notice things were back to normal doing so.
Nevertheless, I do not understand why this spinning problem occurs. If it is correct what Guido assumed (no clock), how can changing the psu, without interrupting anything else but pin 24 affect the clock?? Connecting or disconnecting the negative lead from the shunt, makes no difference (no other pins to ground disconnected).
If you, Thomas, are still in the same darkness, can anybody else shed some light on this and help me out? Please?
Hi Lourens,
clearly your new shuntsupply is either not +5V or can't supply 180mA
BTW I have received your PM today.But I can't reach you,nor have I received any mail in the past weeks...
clearly your new shuntsupply is either not +5V or can't supply 180mA
BTW I have received your PM today.But I can't reach you,nor have I received any mail in the past weeks...
Hi 1540,
Glad to hear from you. I have send you a PM.
Just to clarify and elaborate my quest:
The shunt measures 5,1V and is designed for heavy loads like 7210 and 7220 by another friend (rated at 300mA, did not check yet). You can see pictures and schemata on his
site
It was a hell of job to fit these three pcb's and the trafo neatly in the Studer, and I was (and actually am) convinced all should work because it was tested in the Philips CDD882 😕
Glad to hear from you. I have send you a PM.
Just to clarify and elaborate my quest:
The shunt measures 5,1V and is designed for heavy loads like 7210 and 7220 by another friend (rated at 300mA, did not check yet). You can see pictures and schemata on his
site
It was a hell of job to fit these three pcb's and the trafo neatly in the Studer, and I was (and actually am) convinced all should work because it was tested in the Philips CDD882 😕
Re: Re: CDM-1 player spinning prob.
Hi Lourens,
I never bourght the player. Someone beat me to it. 😡
I recently bourght a 104 and two 304 (mkI) instead. 😀 The 104 have some problems. I think it's the typical problems mentioned here.
Your problem migt be the new psu. Try testing it under load (use a suitable resistor as load).
I hope you are able to fix the problem.
Lourens said:
Hi Lourens,
I never bourght the player. Someone beat me to it. 😡
I recently bourght a 104 and two 304 (mkI) instead. 😀 The 104 have some problems. I think it's the typical problems mentioned here.
Your problem migt be the new psu. Try testing it under load (use a suitable resistor as load).
I hope you are able to fix the problem.
problem solved
Hi Thomas,
Thanks for your reply. My spinning problem has been solved. And you are definitely right, just like tda1540, pointing at the psu. But the real cause was... my own ignorance. Well, uhh, it ‘s quite embarrassing to tell, but here we go (don’ t laugh, please).
I knew beforehand the new 300mA psu could get rather warm, so I thought it would be sensible to attach some extra aluminium strips to the heat sinks (for LM317 and BD140) to increase dissipation. As a bonus I could use this construction to fit the pcb tightly to the metal inner upright side of the Studer. But this win-win scenario turned out to be double lose....
You must know I am a newbee to electronics so I completely overlooked the fact that those small black heat sinks were not isolated from the circuit... The result off my beautiful construction was just short circuit! No wonder the SAA7220 did not work anymore. Moreover, no wonder it produced a lot of heat, much more then I expected. To be completely honest, my first reaction was in fact: good choice to fit some extra heat sinking!
On second thoughts, and thanks to down to earth (or grnd, yep!) coaching from some expert diy friends I learned what went wrong and was I able repair things. As we say in Dutch: learning through damage and shame. Anyway, more shame than damage this time, still learned a lot. Sorry folks. Thanks Martijn and Rudo.
The good news is the cdm1 spins like it should do and the Studer sounds like never before
.
IMHO this dedicated psu for the SAA7220 beats all mods I experienced up till now. I use the Studer A727 as a transport with my dCS dac. Slaved to the dCS word clock and without any modification it already outperformed my Philips CDD882, and a friends Marantz CD12, both modified and reclocked. This weekend I will connect a second shunt to the SAA7210. Can’t wait to hear the result !
Thomas said:
Hi Thomas,
Thanks for your reply. My spinning problem has been solved. And you are definitely right, just like tda1540, pointing at the psu. But the real cause was... my own ignorance. Well, uhh, it ‘s quite embarrassing to tell, but here we go (don’ t laugh, please).
I knew beforehand the new 300mA psu could get rather warm, so I thought it would be sensible to attach some extra aluminium strips to the heat sinks (for LM317 and BD140) to increase dissipation. As a bonus I could use this construction to fit the pcb tightly to the metal inner upright side of the Studer. But this win-win scenario turned out to be double lose....
You must know I am a newbee to electronics so I completely overlooked the fact that those small black heat sinks were not isolated from the circuit... The result off my beautiful construction was just short circuit! No wonder the SAA7220 did not work anymore. Moreover, no wonder it produced a lot of heat, much more then I expected. To be completely honest, my first reaction was in fact: good choice to fit some extra heat sinking!
On second thoughts, and thanks to down to earth (or grnd, yep!) coaching from some expert diy friends I learned what went wrong and was I able repair things. As we say in Dutch: learning through damage and shame. Anyway, more shame than damage this time, still learned a lot. Sorry folks. Thanks Martijn and Rudo.
The good news is the cdm1 spins like it should do and the Studer sounds like never before
. IMHO this dedicated psu for the SAA7220 beats all mods I experienced up till now. I use the Studer A727 as a transport with my dCS dac. Slaved to the dCS word clock and without any modification it already outperformed my Philips CDD882, and a friends Marantz CD12, both modified and reclocked. This weekend I will connect a second shunt to the SAA7210. Can’t wait to hear the result !
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