I serached, came up with different methods of cutting circles. However Im going to invest in a router. I know very little about routers. What is a plunge router and is there another type of router? I build a speaker maybe once every 2 months, so I'm into it but not *that* into it.
Can anybody recommend a specific brand/model? I will do cutouts of everything from 2 inch ports to 18" (or larger) subwoofers. I also would like to be able to make those nice edges instead of using the damn finishing sander. I have a Rotozip circle cutter but it doesnt work that well.
Further, can you dado cut with routers?
Im about to hit Lowes then Home Depot to check prices and to check out if they have 18mm baltic birch. Labhorn subs here we come!
Can anybody recommend a specific brand/model? I will do cutouts of everything from 2 inch ports to 18" (or larger) subwoofers. I also would like to be able to make those nice edges instead of using the damn finishing sander. I have a Rotozip circle cutter but it doesnt work that well.
Further, can you dado cut with routers?
Im about to hit Lowes then Home Depot to check prices and to check out if they have 18mm baltic birch. Labhorn subs here we come!
The Jasper circle jig is nice for speaker cutouts.
You can dado with a router, a guide and the right bit.
A plunge router is nice to have, so is a lot of horsepower. I have a Porter Cable plunge router and am quite happy with it - expensive though at about $400. The salesman at Lowes will be glad to tell you all about plunge router benefits.
You can dado with a router, a guide and the right bit.
A plunge router is nice to have, so is a lot of horsepower. I have a Porter Cable plunge router and am quite happy with it - expensive though at about $400. The salesman at Lowes will be glad to tell you all about plunge router benefits.
You can usually find Porter Cable 690s with plunge attachments for about $200. It works fine for occasional speaker building. I've had mine for a while now and have no regrets.
Definately go for a plunge router, in fact as an aside, it seems like the US is the only market where they are not standard, it's just about impossible to buy a non plunge router anywhere else.
Good makes are DeWalt, Porter Cable, Hitachi, Bosch, and Makita, buy the most powerful one you can afford, with at least a 1/4 inch collet, 1/2 is better, but has a price premium, and unless you intend to use it for really heavy cuts like kitchen worktops is probably overpowered. As well as a decent DeWalt, I also have a cheap £20 job that is left loaded with a 1/2 inch rounding over bit, saving time changing tools.
Good makes are DeWalt, Porter Cable, Hitachi, Bosch, and Makita, buy the most powerful one you can afford, with at least a 1/4 inch collet, 1/2 is better, but has a price premium, and unless you intend to use it for really heavy cuts like kitchen worktops is probably overpowered. As well as a decent DeWalt, I also have a cheap £20 job that is left loaded with a 1/2 inch rounding over bit, saving time changing tools.
Oh, and you can make up for buying a relatively cheap router by getting the best possible bits you can afford. In fact, it is quite easy to spend the same price as a top end router just by buying half a dozen decent bits...🙂
Here's a good article about routers you might want to read before you go shopping......
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/plungerouters.0803.pdf
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/plungerouters.0803.pdf
Thanks for the replys. Im looking to spend the least amount of $ possible, so I've narrowed it down between 2 models. From Lowes the Skil 1825, its 8000-20k RPM variable I think 2 hp (or was it measured in amps?) , 1/4 and 1/2" bits and the Ryobi RE180PL which is also 1/2 and 1/4, but 15-23krpm, both $100. Looks like below this price range only does 1/4" and no variable speed. Im leanign towards the Ryobi cause the Home Depot is closer and it also has the soft start. AND i just read that article and its the editors choice! However looks like the Skil was the best value.
That article was great, and I read it after I came home from the store, and interestingly they reviewed everything I was looking at down to the model #. I do not have a table saw. I have a jig saw and a circular saw.
Thanks guys. Hopefully with this and a good+ cheap source for baltic birch they will be on their way.
That article was great, and I read it after I came home from the store, and interestingly they reviewed everything I was looking at down to the model #. I do not have a table saw. I have a jig saw and a circular saw.
Thanks guys. Hopefully with this and a good+ cheap source for baltic birch they will be on their way.
We, me and my dad use a DeWalt, DW615. We used an elu model before that and have for years, thing is it was dropped and the base of it bent a bit so was no longer at rightangles with the cutter. Everything else still worked perfectly with it though. The Dewalt is the same model as the elu but with a softstaft and speed control. These are both 1/4" devices and work beatifully. We also have a cheaper more powerful 1/2" router that is used for non perfect cut type jobs that require power.
With tools you get exactly what you pay for so dont skimp just to save a few pennies if you dont have to. An expensive router if looked after properly will last you years, cheaper ones might not, one £300-400 for years or several cheaper ones. Your choice.
With tools you get exactly what you pay for so dont skimp just to save a few pennies if you dont have to. An expensive router if looked after properly will last you years, cheaper ones might not, one £300-400 for years or several cheaper ones. Your choice.
Some routers come with two bases that allow you to have a fix base and a plunge router. Porter Cable, Bosch and Makita make these types of dual base packages.
The reason so many people buy fixed based routers is for the low center of gravity. If your routing on a jig and it is narrow, you have better control with the fixed base. If you can only can buy one kind of router get a plunge or the package deal that has both bases.
Best Routers in order
Porter Cable... Best Selection of different types of routers
Bosch, Best ergo and lower noise.
Makita, Almost as good as a Bosch
DeWalt, Nice older design
Hitachi, Bearing can go out
--------------------------------
Don't buy these
Sears... They suck
Skill
Ryobi
The reason so many people buy fixed based routers is for the low center of gravity. If your routing on a jig and it is narrow, you have better control with the fixed base. If you can only can buy one kind of router get a plunge or the package deal that has both bases.
Best Routers in order
Porter Cable... Best Selection of different types of routers
Bosch, Best ergo and lower noise.
Makita, Almost as good as a Bosch
DeWalt, Nice older design
Hitachi, Bearing can go out
--------------------------------
Don't buy these
Sears... They suck
Skill
Ryobi
Dado?
You can definitely dado with a router. You can also straightedge. Depending on the care taken, and the quality of your straightedge, you can approach "jointed" edge quality, ie. glueline.
Consider the quality of material you will purchase for your next project. Save a "factory" edge from a new sheet of mdf, or better yet baltic birch ply. This will provide you with a reference edge from which to machine your dado's or staightedges. You could also use a piece of 1/4" th aluminum, just be careful you don't run the bit into it.
You can definitely dado with a router. You can also straightedge. Depending on the care taken, and the quality of your straightedge, you can approach "jointed" edge quality, ie. glueline.
Consider the quality of material you will purchase for your next project. Save a "factory" edge from a new sheet of mdf, or better yet baltic birch ply. This will provide you with a reference edge from which to machine your dado's or staightedges. You could also use a piece of 1/4" th aluminum, just be careful you don't run the bit into it.
I've read a comparison not long ago that points to Bosch routers as the quietest, most vibration-free.
Do not buy a router and use only 1/4 bit's, you have more control and a smoother cut with a 1/2 bit.
I use a Milwaukee 2.75 hp fixed base router. I've used to for building a few sets of speaker cabs, and it has been a dream to use. I would definately recommend getting a 1/2" type router instead of 1/4".
I don't know why people don't like fixed base, but then again I use freehand, not a circle jig.
I don't know why people don't like fixed base, but then again I use freehand, not a circle jig.
eRiCdWoNg said:
Go for the Ryobi - it has great reviewsand I've seen posted elsewhere that anyone who bought one is happy. If you were a professional woodworker it might be worth spending more - but then, you wouldn't be looking here for advice...
🙂
Best of luck with whatever you get!
The problem with cheap routers is the run-out is bad meaning the bit wobbles in the chuck. They vibrate, their to noisy, they don’t hold adjustment, the mass of the router is low causing a ripple on the cut, have poor adjustments . the bit sometime fall out and crummy motors.
In my list I for got the Milwaukee their new routers are quite good. I own at least a half a dozen routers, the one I use the most are the Bosch then the Porter Cables. The one I don't like to use are the Skill and the Sears.
www.woodworkersupply.com they sale most of the quality brands.
Bits I like to use WhiteSides, Ammana, CMT, Freud 😉
In my list I for got the Milwaukee their new routers are quite good. I own at least a half a dozen routers, the one I use the most are the Bosch then the Porter Cables. The one I don't like to use are the Skill and the Sears.
www.woodworkersupply.com they sale most of the quality brands.
Bits I like to use WhiteSides, Ammana, CMT, Freud 😉
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