hi, all
first... BIG THANKS TO ALL the guys 🙂 on this forum for help and information, without which I would not have achieved these results. Of which, I'm reasonably happy considering this is my first attempt.
i guess the best way to show appreciation here is to throw some information and experience back into the mix for everyone. i'll keep posting infomation about my setup here in this thread (with pics too 🙂 )
here we go..
LIGHT SOURCE: A+K Scholar 400 (400w halogen EVD)
LCD PANEL: CMV1515 flat panel monitor
SCREEN: my dirty white bedroom wall
I agonised for ages over the choice between the BENQ 581s/567s and CMV1515. In the end, the CMV1515 won out because opinions on the forums seem to sway towards it as better overall (though not suited for OHP, which was what I was planning!).
I thought I'd take a chance anyway, it seem to be better suited for the primary task I wanted it for.. games 🙂
See this post for more info..
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22059
first... BIG THANKS TO ALL the guys 🙂 on this forum for help and information, without which I would not have achieved these results. Of which, I'm reasonably happy considering this is my first attempt.
i guess the best way to show appreciation here is to throw some information and experience back into the mix for everyone. i'll keep posting infomation about my setup here in this thread (with pics too 🙂 )
here we go..
LIGHT SOURCE: A+K Scholar 400 (400w halogen EVD)
LCD PANEL: CMV1515 flat panel monitor
SCREEN: my dirty white bedroom wall
I agonised for ages over the choice between the BENQ 581s/567s and CMV1515. In the end, the CMV1515 won out because opinions on the forums seem to sway towards it as better overall (though not suited for OHP, which was what I was planning!).
I thought I'd take a chance anyway, it seem to be better suited for the primary task I wanted it for.. games 🙂
See this post for more info..
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22059
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font cover off finally..
TIP: if you have digital camera, take LOTS of pictures of every step of the disassembly process.
reason being... you may want to put back it together again so day in the distant future. i took a picture pretty much everytime a i removed something.
these was especially important for the CMV1515. for some reason, these things are a lot more complicated than my PC (which i regularily tear apart for some reason or other).
It seems to have a fair number of screws of different (close) sizes which its going to very annoying if you dont know where they go.
There was a fair amount of metal shielding too, which I'm removing (and basically discarding) hmm.. i guess there was prolly a good reason for it.. i wonder just how much EM and other wonderful types of radiation these things give out. i'm imagining all those x-rays being pushed out by that big white cathode base 🙂
TIP: if you have digital camera, take LOTS of pictures of every step of the disassembly process.
reason being... you may want to put back it together again so day in the distant future. i took a picture pretty much everytime a i removed something.
these was especially important for the CMV1515. for some reason, these things are a lot more complicated than my PC (which i regularily tear apart for some reason or other).
It seems to have a fair number of screws of different (close) sizes which its going to very annoying if you dont know where they go.
There was a fair amount of metal shielding too, which I'm removing (and basically discarding) hmm.. i guess there was prolly a good reason for it.. i wonder just how much EM and other wonderful types of radiation these things give out. i'm imagining all those x-rays being pushed out by that big white cathode base 🙂
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this is why..
you can see all those delicate high density black flat cables being stressed, pulled and bent at 90 degrees along the top the LCD. only takes one to tear a little then the panel is an expensive paper weight. luckily they were tough enough for time i was playing with it here but why take the chance?
note the small yellow cable forcing this configuration. it was about this time when i realised that i might have a problem with the flat OHP tray setup i was planning.. erghhh..
you can see all those delicate high density black flat cables being stressed, pulled and bent at 90 degrees along the top the LCD. only takes one to tear a little then the panel is an expensive paper weight. luckily they were tough enough for time i was playing with it here but why take the chance?
note the small yellow cable forcing this configuration. it was about this time when i realised that i might have a problem with the flat OHP tray setup i was planning.. erghhh..
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here it is mounted on the metal tray holder thing that was orignally holding the LCD to the cathode base. As Brainchild suggested in another thread, it siliconed the LCD to it to protect it and the cables. I didn't use as much as he did though, just enough to secure the corners in case i had to take it apart again.
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Looks awesome, I just got my Samsung152T apart yesterday, and damn the panels look sexy 😛 But your FFC looks way nicer than mine 🙁 eek 😛 Yeah I am really worried about cutting the FFC I know I can extend it with my pro-skills at soldering, but ... EEK!
Nice work and pics!
Nice work and pics!
my light source.. 400 watts of halogen goodness. its ******* bright and hot enough to barbeque on the stage (ok, i'm exaggerating a little... but it's a really hot light)
it has color temperature adjustments (means just moving the light bulb up and down inside the projector casing) and a turbo bright mode 🙂 (i think it just switches the spare lamp on at the same time as the primary one... like it wasnt hot enough already. thats 2 x 400w halogen lights inside that small space)
TIP: do not look directly into the lens when the projector is on, you will be blinded for about 5 minutes and there will be a big purple/red spot in your vision for the next hour or so
it has color temperature adjustments (means just moving the light bulb up and down inside the projector casing) and a turbo bright mode 🙂 (i think it just switches the spare lamp on at the same time as the primary one... like it wasnt hot enough already. thats 2 x 400w halogen lights inside that small space)
TIP: do not look directly into the lens when the projector is on, you will be blinded for about 5 minutes and there will be a big purple/red spot in your vision for the next hour or so
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thanks, hmm.. good luck on the soldering, Mr.Kh I saw something on one of the other threads that it was very risky. cant remember the thread exactly. i would avoid all together if i can.
its alive!! its alive!! its alive!!
my first test of the thing..
yeah!! i got a blank light on the wall.
plugged it into my notebook. geeze... the LCD got really hot just sitting there with the light on, so i put had to put a big fan on it (only one i could find at the time). it kinda worked.
my first test of the thing..
yeah!! i got a blank light on the wall.
plugged it into my notebook. geeze... the LCD got really hot just sitting there with the light on, so i put had to put a big fan on it (only one i could find at the time). it kinda worked.
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sooo.. i've proven the concept works. now for the real stuff....
over the next few days.. i gather some bits and pieces, e.g. fans, wood, ect. i need to build a frame for the LCD and fans and maybe split the fresnel lens and sandwich the LCD so i can get full screen.
The LCD would sit on top of the frame, so the board will dangle down, thus i wont need to worry about the board being at an angle (because of that putrid little yellow cable).
I have also decided on a scientific construction and design methodology which as served humankind for thousand of years, the TLAR (that looks about right) method.
here i am scientifically measuring what i need to build. yep.. those are 2 x 12cm fans, one's also Panaflow. Both should push more than enough air to cool the LCD.
over the next few days.. i gather some bits and pieces, e.g. fans, wood, ect. i need to build a frame for the LCD and fans and maybe split the fresnel lens and sandwich the LCD so i can get full screen.
The LCD would sit on top of the frame, so the board will dangle down, thus i wont need to worry about the board being at an angle (because of that putrid little yellow cable).
I have also decided on a scientific construction and design methodology which as served humankind for thousand of years, the TLAR (that looks about right) method.
here i am scientifically measuring what i need to build. yep.. those are 2 x 12cm fans, one's also Panaflow. Both should push more than enough air to cool the LCD.
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hmm.. dont you just love it when great plans goes wrong. 🙄
i'm too embarrassed to post any pictures in this during this period. Here's a summary..
1. I have not done any wood working since high school. And now, I know why. I must have some physical defect because I just cannot cut in straight line, or if it is straight, its going to go in the wrong direction.
2. Just laying stuff out without any real planning is not really suffcient to fully visualize the final result. Things wont fit properly, derrr...
3. I do not have enough patience to split a fresnel lens. i hacked the corners off and pryed it apart with a screw driver. if you're not careful enough, you'll crack it... funnily enough, thats exactly what happend.
4. if you cut a fresnel with hacksaw, make sure it is properly secured or you will make an existing crack bigger, which is exactly what happened. if you're going to then try to superglue the crack together, DO NOT, because you're going put ugly white marks and finger prints around the crack making it stand out even more. Best yet, superglue doesnt seem to work on optical grade fresnel plastic anyway. Good thing I didn't try to testing this out on an off-cut piece first. arghhh.. 🙁
5. Just when you're about 5mm away from perfect cut of the second half of the lens, the forces of the universe will conspire against you and put another huge crack in it.
6. Big, high RPM fans also means big noise and also at an annoying pitch too. Sticking fingers in them to feel how much air is going though them is a dumb idea.
7. Keep sharp things like screwdrivers FAR away from the LCD panels because LCDs have a some magical property to attract sharp things towards themselves. luckily, the scratch wasnt deep, just 5mm and not really noticable when projected.
8. Hmm.. there are stiff cables(not the flat ones) which connect the boards, you will need to make allowances if you dont want to stress them or thier connectors. this is a good thing to know because i totally did not even consider this so the frame i made was too small after i put the LCD in. yay..
9. super strength 5 minute expoxy glue really sets after 5 minutes... if you make a mistake with the glueing and rip the wood off, it will be the weak wood which will break, not the expoxy.
Soo.. after all this fun, I decided wisely that it would not be a good idea for me to try my luck with some glass. So I went to the hardware store to look for some clear perspex (plexiglass same thing?). I found some big sheet (window size) stuff they called clear acrylic and also some clear polycarbonate for a little bit more. I ended buying the polycarbonate, because it says 99% UV protection, which i guess is good think for LCDs.
I wasnt sure how much UV the halo light would put out but considerable I guess. As a bonus, it turns out that the polycarbonate seems a lot harder to scratch than I would have expected. It will also deflect a cricket ball or a brick thrown at it with full force according to the label. Always a useful property for a DIY projector
i'm too embarrassed to post any pictures in this during this period. Here's a summary..
1. I have not done any wood working since high school. And now, I know why. I must have some physical defect because I just cannot cut in straight line, or if it is straight, its going to go in the wrong direction.
2. Just laying stuff out without any real planning is not really suffcient to fully visualize the final result. Things wont fit properly, derrr...
3. I do not have enough patience to split a fresnel lens. i hacked the corners off and pryed it apart with a screw driver. if you're not careful enough, you'll crack it... funnily enough, thats exactly what happend.
4. if you cut a fresnel with hacksaw, make sure it is properly secured or you will make an existing crack bigger, which is exactly what happened. if you're going to then try to superglue the crack together, DO NOT, because you're going put ugly white marks and finger prints around the crack making it stand out even more. Best yet, superglue doesnt seem to work on optical grade fresnel plastic anyway. Good thing I didn't try to testing this out on an off-cut piece first. arghhh.. 🙁
5. Just when you're about 5mm away from perfect cut of the second half of the lens, the forces of the universe will conspire against you and put another huge crack in it.
6. Big, high RPM fans also means big noise and also at an annoying pitch too. Sticking fingers in them to feel how much air is going though them is a dumb idea.
7. Keep sharp things like screwdrivers FAR away from the LCD panels because LCDs have a some magical property to attract sharp things towards themselves. luckily, the scratch wasnt deep, just 5mm and not really noticable when projected.
8. Hmm.. there are stiff cables(not the flat ones) which connect the boards, you will need to make allowances if you dont want to stress them or thier connectors. this is a good thing to know because i totally did not even consider this so the frame i made was too small after i put the LCD in. yay..
9. super strength 5 minute expoxy glue really sets after 5 minutes... if you make a mistake with the glueing and rip the wood off, it will be the weak wood which will break, not the expoxy.
Soo.. after all this fun, I decided wisely that it would not be a good idea for me to try my luck with some glass. So I went to the hardware store to look for some clear perspex (plexiglass same thing?). I found some big sheet (window size) stuff they called clear acrylic and also some clear polycarbonate for a little bit more. I ended buying the polycarbonate, because it says 99% UV protection, which i guess is good think for LCDs.
I wasnt sure how much UV the halo light would put out but considerable I guess. As a bonus, it turns out that the polycarbonate seems a lot harder to scratch than I would have expected. It will also deflect a cricket ball or a brick thrown at it with full force according to the label. Always a useful property for a DIY projector
and, finally, guys.. here are there results.
here tweaking the CMV1515, 9300k seems to be best provide the best color saturation for this OHP light. I had to tweak it a bit but I found out that the default settings plus this plus 100% contrast is perfect for my setup, 95% of the time.
here tweaking the CMV1515, 9300k seems to be best provide the best color saturation for this OHP light. I had to tweak it a bit but I found out that the default settings plus this plus 100% contrast is perfect for my setup, 95% of the time.
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