Zen Mod said:Zahlen , bitte ?
If there is enough interest, I will consider the possibility to make a larger run of them.
So far I have just made 18, and from those, I have a need for 8 of right now, so that doesn't leave many for the greedy boys

Magura 🙂
Magura said:
If there is enough interest, I will consider the possibility to make a larger run of them.
So far I have just made 18, and from those, I have a need for 8 of right now, so that doesn't leave many for the greedy boys![]()
Magura 🙂
well - you always know where you can send two pairs of these nasty blocks 😉
(just joking , I'll made my own )
describe your way of soldering little critters to blocks , without escape of precious white smoke ?
Zen Mod said:
describe your way of soldering little critters to blocks , without escape of precious white smoke ?
A good temperature controlled oven, ramp up to 250C, hold temperature for 30 seconds, let the parts cool off in free air.
Using fluss un the copper part.
Magura 🙂
Magura said:
.....
Using fluss un the copper part.
Magura 🙂
rephrase that ;
I'm lousy thinkin' on Danish

flux-ed solder , smd solder ..... what ?
Zen Mod said:
rephrase that ;
I'm lousy thinkin' on Danish
flux-ed solder , smd solder ..... what ?
Just regular fluxed solder. Adding flux on the copper part prior to heating.
Magura 🙂
Magura said:
....... Adding flux on the copper part prior to heating.
Magura 🙂
calophone good enough ?
edit:
btw. pcbs finished ?
Zen Mod said:
calophone good enough ?
edit:
btw. pcbs finished ?
Calophone?
I have seen no mail from you regarding PCB since last weekend??
Magura 🙂
Magura said:
Calophone?
I have seen no mail from you regarding PCB since last weekend??
Magura 🙂
calophone - resin used for violin fiddlestick ;
shoot me at >prodanovics@nadlanu.com<
neobee have numerous hickups lately
Zen Mod said:
calophone - resin used for violin fiddlestick ;
To tell you the truth, I have no idea.
The flux I use is sure meant for the purpose, but is older than time, so not made under that name anymore.
Mail sent.
Magura 🙂
A good temperature controlled oven, ramp up to 250C, hold temperature for 30 seconds, let the parts cool off in free air.
Can the Jfets take that heat without damage?
JJ
Nelson Pass said:Apparently so. You won't see me doing it, though.
![]()
EUVL said:> You won't see me doing it, though.
Well said.
naah .........
that's working temp in all MetalDanske amps .......

I was bored this morning so my nose got the better of me..
I think what choky meant was colophony, see wiki here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin
I think what choky meant was colophony, see wiki here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin
vitalstates said:I was bored this morning so my nose got the better of me..
I think what choky meant was colophony, see wiki here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin
yup .
😉
I haven't tried any soldering on these JFETs yet but on a daily basis I do such things with similar devices to heavy copper PCBs. Low Temp solder paste is the way to go. For something like the I-Pak I would typically use an air pre-heat stage wich is entended to heat the PCB area up, from the under side, to about 125C over 2-3 minutes. At that point I would put the air pencil to the device and surrounding area from the top side. The paste I use has a Liquidous state at about 140C(Sn42/Bi58). The pencil is ussually set to about 380C but there are alot of variables involved like distance from the device, flow rate, etc. You can watch the paste flow and get molten after about 10-20 seconds. Generally you need a tap on the top center of the device to push down and squash out excess solder and voids and you're done!
Chances are the device would not see over 175C

Chances are the device would not see over 175C



flg said:I haven't tried any soldering on these JFETs yet but on a daily basis I do such things with similar devices to heavy copper PCBs. Low Temp solder paste is the way to go. For something like the I-Pak I would typically use an air pre-heat stage wich is entended to heat the PCB area up, from the under side, to about 125C over 2-3 minutes. At that point I would put the air pencil to the device and surrounding area from the top side. The paste I use has a Liquidous state at about 140C(Sn42/Bi58). The pencil is ussually set to about 380C but there are alot of variables involved like distance from the device, flow rate, etc. You can watch the paste flow and get molten after about 10-20 seconds. Generally you need a tap on the top center of the device to push down and squash out excess solder and voids and you're done!
Chances are the device would not see over 175C
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Exactly, this is done on daily basis, nothing new, risky or fancy. This is a well tested, everyday manufacturing principle.
The only news to this, is that it's been done successfully, with relatively low-tech machinery.
.....and naturally the fun of being able to push the limits for the Lovoltech's a bit 😉
Magura 🙂
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