I am fascinated with this preamp by Mr. Yaniger -- as it has 5 glowing elements --
the wikipedia has a pretty neat neon lamp activitated GIF:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_lamp
i have seen NE-2's used in relaxation oscillators...
the wikipedia has a pretty neat neon lamp activitated GIF:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_lamp
i have seen NE-2's used in relaxation oscillators...
as it has 5 glowing elements --
UH... I only count two, the 6DJ8 and the 6SN7. The NE2 should not glow in normal operation, it is there to help ease the shock that V2 sees on power up since the CCS is trying to stuff all of its current int V2's grid before V1 is warm.
LEDs.
I haven't seen the article yet, but that guy always seems to be sticking LEDs in there somewhere.
I haven't seen the article yet, but that guy always seems to be sticking LEDs in there somewhere.
DOH, I didn't see them glowing. I guess we are both wrong, since I now count 6 glowing things, but I never could count.
Since this preamp is specifically designed to work with the Pass F4, I'm taking the liberty of moving the thread to the Pass forum.
I read the AX article. 26db of gain for this pup. Balanced tube line amp.
Does Variac have this in his setup now?
Does Variac have this in his setup now?
SY said:Since this preamp is specifically designed to work with the Pass F4, I'm taking the liberty of moving the thread to the Pass forum.
OK
since it is published ( at last ! ) , just put schematic here ....
and, if you have to order NE-2's -- they come in assorted flavors -- the NE2H is "leaded", the NE2B is "socketed".
hifimaker said:Where's the pictures or schematic being referring too?
-David
Latest AudioExpress magazine. The picture anyways, some of it, in top right corner.
Attachments
I can just about decipher the fact that some kind of beer is required to test the device -- the bottle label has what appears to be a bicycle on it, but the specifics didn't make it passed the offset printer.
Fat Tire. I've been trying to figure out a way to get a few bottles shipped to England for a good friend of mine who is a tube fiend, beer nut, and cycling enthusiast.
I wonder if I can fit it into a PAS chassis? -- with all those 630V Polypropylene caps:
http://www.tech-diy.com/Preamplifiers/ImPASSe/ImPasse_3D.gif
http://www.tech-diy.com/Preamplifiers/ImPASSe/ImPasse_3D.gif
Should be no problem except for wedging in the power transformer and the height of the 6SN7. If you can get a board to work, I want one!
Here's the silk -- the traces are dimmed down -- I didn't have any PCB mount octal sockets so I ordered some -- the input transformers have to be mounted on the back panel of the chasis:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I want, I want
SY,
I was wondering just how I was going to drive the two Burning Amps in the F4 style when I get them finished. And then along came ImPasse. Thanks so much for this! Have in missed both BAFs I had no idea you had this cooking.
The article was really good and I'm psyched to build one of these. If circuit boards are in the offing I'm down.
If you have time I have a couple of questions about the design.
1. Can you elaborate on your choices in getting the signal from the voltage divider to the output stage? I'm unsure how you calculated the values for the voltage divider and it's overall effect on the signal going to the unity gain phase splitter.
2. I may want to add a balance control to the mix and would like to get some guidance on how to figure out the matching the volume/balance/R1/C1 combo with the prima donna input transformer. I don't have any transformers on hand so I'm pretty open.
My apologies if these are lame questions.
KB
SY,
I was wondering just how I was going to drive the two Burning Amps in the F4 style when I get them finished. And then along came ImPasse. Thanks so much for this! Have in missed both BAFs I had no idea you had this cooking.
The article was really good and I'm psyched to build one of these. If circuit boards are in the offing I'm down.
If you have time I have a couple of questions about the design.
1. Can you elaborate on your choices in getting the signal from the voltage divider to the output stage? I'm unsure how you calculated the values for the voltage divider and it's overall effect on the signal going to the unity gain phase splitter.
2. I may want to add a balance control to the mix and would like to get some guidance on how to figure out the matching the volume/balance/R1/C1 combo with the prima donna input transformer. I don't have any transformers on hand so I'm pretty open.
My apologies if these are lame questions.
KB
I'll have more time to answer in detail later, but here's the basics:
1. Voltage divider was chosen to get the right DC potentials on the ECC88 split load. The bypass cap on the first resistor turns it into a step network, but at a very low frequency so that the divider doesn't cause a gain loss in the audio band.
2. I'm not sure what's commercially available for balance controls, but I have some old Alps balance pots that are zero ohms through half of the rotation, then audio taper for the other half. That way, at midpoint there's no loss on either channel. I'd look for something like that, and use a value that's about the same as the volume pot- this will give you 6dB of adjustment which should be more than enough, and it won't perturb the input transformer.
Jackinnj is designing some boards which will drop into a PAS chassis. If he wants to do a run and sell them, that's fine with me. Otherwise, if someone else wants to get some quotes from a board house and get a group buy together, and it's OK with Jack, I'll certainly take a board myself.
1. Voltage divider was chosen to get the right DC potentials on the ECC88 split load. The bypass cap on the first resistor turns it into a step network, but at a very low frequency so that the divider doesn't cause a gain loss in the audio band.
2. I'm not sure what's commercially available for balance controls, but I have some old Alps balance pots that are zero ohms through half of the rotation, then audio taper for the other half. That way, at midpoint there's no loss on either channel. I'd look for something like that, and use a value that's about the same as the volume pot- this will give you 6dB of adjustment which should be more than enough, and it won't perturb the input transformer.
Jackinnj is designing some boards which will drop into a PAS chassis. If he wants to do a run and sell them, that's fine with me. Otherwise, if someone else wants to get some quotes from a board house and get a group buy together, and it's OK with Jack, I'll certainly take a board myself.
Thanks!
SY,
Thanks for the quick response. When you get time for more detail I'd be interested to know how you calculated the values, what components contribute, and such.
As for the balance pot, I wasn't clear on the type of pot you were describing and found an interesting set of pot definitions on www.rane.com. For those of you that didn't know about it either (hopefully, I won't be the only one!), here goes...
Could the Noble pot A-25 on this page be the item to which we're referring?
Thanks again. BTW, I'm not in any rush. Just excited about it!
K
SY,
Thanks for the quick response. When you get time for more detail I'd be interested to know how you calculated the values, what components contribute, and such.
As for the balance pot, I wasn't clear on the type of pot you were describing and found an interesting set of pot definitions on www.rane.com. For those of you that didn't know about it either (hopefully, I won't be the only one!), here goes...
- audio taper (aka A-taper): Usually 15% resistance at the 50% rotation point.
- E-taper Similar to a reversed audio taper but with 25% resistance at the 50% rotation point.
- linear taper(aka B-taper): Always 50% resistance at the 50% travel point.
- log taper(aka D-taper): Often used as an audio taper since its 50% rotation point has 10% resistance.
- MN taper (aka balance pot) Special taper developed for home stereo "Balance" controls. Consists of two sections (one for each channel) operating opposite each other. Exactly one-half of each section is a zero resistance surface (i.e., solid-copper or equivalent), the next 50% of travel is linear taper. Therefore for one channel rotating the slider through the first 50% of travel does not change the level at all, while the other channel is reduce from full to zero, and vice versa, with the middle position (usually featuring a center-detent) always passing full signal to each channel. See balance control.
- RD-taper A reversed D-taper (see log taper above).
Could the Noble pot A-25 on this page be the item to which we're referring?
Thanks again. BTW, I'm not in any rush. Just excited about it!
K
Any chance of a scan of the article for those of us without prescriptions and local newsstands that carry it?
Thanks
Thanks
DaveM said:Any chance of a scan of the article for those of us without prescriptions and local newsstands that carry it?
Thanks
Those of you without prescriptions see the world differently
😀 😀

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