I am taking another swing at homebrewing phase plugs. I looked high and low for the ones I made but I think they went with the sale of the old RS 1197s. One of the Radio Shacks picked up some dirt during the modding job.
After doing the Damar treatment on one of multiple experiments, I found a good Pioneer that had no scratchiness. It already had the
dust cap off.
The phase plug is made with a craft project wooden egg and some doweling. I'm wondering if the improvement in the new setup I have will make some dramatic difference that peeps report with phase plug.
Last time I didn't get much of a noticeable change. But with the addition of Damar and a new plug ( which I made sure would clear the
path of the cone) may add to the music.
After doing the Damar treatment on one of multiple experiments, I found a good Pioneer that had no scratchiness. It already had the
dust cap off.
The phase plug is made with a craft project wooden egg and some doweling. I'm wondering if the improvement in the new setup I have will make some dramatic difference that peeps report with phase plug.
Last time I didn't get much of a noticeable change. But with the addition of Damar and a new plug ( which I made sure would clear the
path of the cone) may add to the music.
The little rascal is coming along but this time through I tried to solve the drill out the itty bitty screw hole problem without a drill press.
I have lots of old screws from computer cases. These are both small and have flat heads like Conformat screws: flat heads that sit flush.
Over drilling the hole with a brace and bit allows the computer screws to be just pushed in to check level and maybe permanently affixed with a bit of glue.
Countersinking such a recess would be another problem.
Next, painting on a racing stripe to the shaft.
Nah, just kidding.
😉
I have lots of old screws from computer cases. These are both small and have flat heads like Conformat screws: flat heads that sit flush.
Over drilling the hole with a brace and bit allows the computer screws to be just pushed in to check level and maybe permanently affixed with a bit of glue.
Countersinking such a recess would be another problem.
Next, painting on a racing stripe to the shaft.
Nah, just kidding.
😉
Elbow grease and a question
Well with nothing to work with but a hack saw and a clamp on portable miter box, there's a fair amount of elbow grease with sand paper. No biggie I'm not in a rush. Having doctored the stock dowel dimension in this way the plug fits in both the modded Pioneer and an older one I thought was shot. Yay!
The question is, since I am just fooling around-- if I get the system down how long are they supposed to be? I mean these Pioneer are discontinued-- but here's the specs at Parts Express:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/psho...568&FTR=269-568&CFID=1070041&CFTOKEN=90160100
Other thing is small work requires small tools and adjustments.
A small machinist square would be ideal. With the square end on the surface, a square will reveal how much of a leaning tower (or ziggurat I suppose) you are playing with.
I think I can get the bottom square with a bit of a circular stick on label cut in half-- depending on how much light I can see down there. Without a lathe this is mostly eyeball work.
Quite frankly I never thought I'd get past the problem of a frictionless cone path in previous attempts. I've tested 2 Pioneers and they are both free of rattle with test tones used to check excursion.
One of these modded Pioneers may be worth attempting an Enabl job. That still freaks me out.
Well with nothing to work with but a hack saw and a clamp on portable miter box, there's a fair amount of elbow grease with sand paper. No biggie I'm not in a rush. Having doctored the stock dowel dimension in this way the plug fits in both the modded Pioneer and an older one I thought was shot. Yay!
The question is, since I am just fooling around-- if I get the system down how long are they supposed to be? I mean these Pioneer are discontinued-- but here's the specs at Parts Express:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/psho...568&FTR=269-568&CFID=1070041&CFTOKEN=90160100
Other thing is small work requires small tools and adjustments.
A small machinist square would be ideal. With the square end on the surface, a square will reveal how much of a leaning tower (or ziggurat I suppose) you are playing with.
I think I can get the bottom square with a bit of a circular stick on label cut in half-- depending on how much light I can see down there. Without a lathe this is mostly eyeball work.
Quite frankly I never thought I'd get past the problem of a frictionless cone path in previous attempts. I've tested 2 Pioneers and they are both free of rattle with test tones used to check excursion.
One of these modded Pioneers may be worth attempting an Enabl job. That still freaks me out.
I wouldn't know. planet10 Dave played Santa a little early this year. Those were a set of raw RS 40-1354's that I won at a raffle at the Van Isle diy fest at his place. He stole them back only to feel guilty and return them in that condition. 😀 You will have to ask Dave about the pattern.
As far as your phase plugs go I'm trying to wrap my head around your idea. Are you starting with a dowel and adding the egg to the end so it's sort of a bulb?
loninappleton said:
No. EnABL on the drivers always uses the same number of blocks (dots). The pattern is scaled up or down according to the size of the cone.
I know there's a pdf around someplace for the pattern. I didn't know if that was theoretical or a practical guide.
Thanks Cal.
Thanks Cal.
It was Alex that helped you, I'm the one with the question about the shape of your plug. Gotta pic?
Cal Weldon said:
You know what farm grain elevator looks like? That' the shape.
No bulbous end.
The dowel is cut. The egg is cut to match the diameter.
I then hand sand it down until looks right and fits behind my grille.
The shop made grille has magnet fasteners and I was able to add a couple round magnets 3/4 into get some additional depth. The magnets are sold at home stores.
The grill is a system recommended here in the forums-- or maybe Bill Fitzmaurice --years ago: a screen door track with fabric instead of aluminum mesh. Those actually came out quite good looking. The system comes with corner fasteners and you get as much spline and track as you need. Same tools as making a screen door. You cut the dimension to size.
Post #15 on the EnABL Processes thread (see 14 and 16 also).
Love to see some pics of your phase plug too!
Cheers,
Alex
Love to see some pics of your phase plug too!
Cheers,
Alex
Alex from Oz said:
My interest in technology never went as far as cameras of any kind
though I would consider a 5-10 megapixel jobbie for $50 or less.
Yes it has handicapped me a bit here in this forum.
For the phase plug it's just a piece of doweling about 2.5 inches long with the small end of a wooden craft egg on one end. The wooden craft eggs are $1.47 USD for 6. Craft eggs are in the hobby stores next to the wooden plaques for rosemalling and such.
By all means if you know of a rocket shaped piece of plastic that is hollow and the same diameter as the dustcap on 4 in speaks, that would solve everyone's problem in doing this: if there were a molded piece of plastic that could be cut to length and looked like a kid's rocket ship, cutting the dust cap would not be necessary and the process would be nearly totally reversible.
I've looked for every source of such a pre-made piece and nothing.
Closest thing was some chrome plastic "bullets" used in automobile customizing. I've checked for party favors and parts in the Edmund's catalog plus a bunch of other places. Bullet thingies is the right shape.
What keeps me from buying any is the distance from Dave and the fact that I'm a cheap @ss. (See if the forum police catch that.)
cheers.
😎
Note to self:
What might work is one of those chubby Sharpie markers designed for making posters: bigger than the usual magic marker felt tip pens and might be the right diameter.
I'll see the next time I'm in the office supply place.
What might work is one of those chubby Sharpie markers designed for making posters: bigger than the usual magic marker felt tip pens and might be the right diameter.
I'll see the next time I'm in the office supply place.
Yes the police caught it but since it could also mean a frugal donkey, we'll let it pass.
I think if I were to make my own phase plugs with limited tools, I would start with a dowel and screw a hex head bolt into the center. I would place that into a cordless drill and strap it to the bench on it's side. Then while it's spinning I would use a very coarse sand paper to begin the round off and use successively smaller grits once the basic bullet nose shape is formed. Remove it from the drill, remove the bolt, cut to size so you have cut off the mounting hole, drill two small pilot holes for very small flat head screws, countersink the holes, add the screws for the magnetic attachment to the pole piece and be done with it. Oh wait, I forgot the step of using a nice Watco Fruitwood stain or WHY for the finish.
I think if I were to make my own phase plugs with limited tools, I would start with a dowel and screw a hex head bolt into the center. I would place that into a cordless drill and strap it to the bench on it's side. Then while it's spinning I would use a very coarse sand paper to begin the round off and use successively smaller grits once the basic bullet nose shape is formed. Remove it from the drill, remove the bolt, cut to size so you have cut off the mounting hole, drill two small pilot holes for very small flat head screws, countersink the holes, add the screws for the magnetic attachment to the pole piece and be done with it. Oh wait, I forgot the step of using a nice Watco Fruitwood stain or WHY for the finish.
I think those markers have an aluminum housing so you'd have to glue it to the pole piece. Same with anything plastic.
Some people have used modified sockets
Some people have used modified sockets
I was given an award/trophy made out of a solid clear block of acrylic (perpex?).
It seems to be a very inert material. I have always wondered whether it would be any good for a phase plug.
Considered building some speaker enclosures from it - until I found out how much it costs $$$
Nice ideal with the drill Cal. I was thinking along the same way but wasn't sure how to secure it into the drill. Have you actually made phase plugs this way?
Lon,
I think for a phase plug to work as intended it needs to be fixed to the pole piece, making dust cap removal unavoidable.
It seems to be a very inert material. I have always wondered whether it would be any good for a phase plug.
Considered building some speaker enclosures from it - until I found out how much it costs $$$
Nice ideal with the drill Cal. I was thinking along the same way but wasn't sure how to secure it into the drill. Have you actually made phase plugs this way?
Lon,
I think for a phase plug to work as intended it needs to be fixed to the pole piece, making dust cap removal unavoidable.
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