Just finished a third sonosub... largest yet!!
and , I've gotta say, with both these and my BG's, I've reached the ultimate... no electronic tone enhancements and stable, clearly defined bass (with proper room placement) down to 20 Hz or so @ 110 dB... with very low distortion... nice!!!
Highly recommended, and built for ~ $150 (mostly the xover caps and inductor)...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and , I've gotta say, with both these and my BG's, I've reached the ultimate... no electronic tone enhancements and stable, clearly defined bass (with proper room placement) down to 20 Hz or so @ 110 dB... with very low distortion... nice!!!
Highly recommended, and built for ~ $150 (mostly the xover caps and inductor)...
Attachments
i like how you put it next to all the nice glass in that cabinet. i hope it survives, for your sake.
Don't you have some spacing of the driver off the floor, to allow the driver to breathe? Rule of thumb is that the Sd should be less than or equal to the opening area. What driver is that, it looks car audio?
Hi,
CVR is silver, he is using the Comp C... =]
I had a Comp C12 about a year ago, sold it, noy buying a TC Sounds TC-1000.
what amp are you powering it with? ported or sealed?
Thanks,
David Resnik
CVR is silver, he is using the Comp C... =]
I had a Comp C12 about a year ago, sold it, noy buying a TC Sounds TC-1000.
what amp are you powering it with? ported or sealed?
Thanks,
David Resnik
big ole' sonosub
David got it right... it's a Kicker Comp C-12... got 2 of them when Circuit City cleared their stock @ 2 for $75... couldn't pass them up. Not the greatest driver around, but it fits the bill here.
Driving it with 1 channel of a modified Adcom 555 II (other channel drives the PE Titanic sonosub on the other side of the room (you can see it in the background of the pic, left of the lamp). It's ported, tuned to 22 Hz extended bass shelf (see excel spreadsheet above).
and yes, it sits ~ 8" off the floor when operating.
Luckily, the glass cabinet sits next to an exterior block and brick load bearing wall, so the contents don't rattle around too much 😀
Wife made the sock out of some $2/yd WallyWorld chair fabric... solves the sonosub finishing problem.
l8tr...😎
John L.
David got it right... it's a Kicker Comp C-12... got 2 of them when Circuit City cleared their stock @ 2 for $75... couldn't pass them up. Not the greatest driver around, but it fits the bill here.
Driving it with 1 channel of a modified Adcom 555 II (other channel drives the PE Titanic sonosub on the other side of the room (you can see it in the background of the pic, left of the lamp). It's ported, tuned to 22 Hz extended bass shelf (see excel spreadsheet above).
and yes, it sits ~ 8" off the floor when operating.
Luckily, the glass cabinet sits next to an exterior block and brick load bearing wall, so the contents don't rattle around too much 😀
Wife made the sock out of some $2/yd WallyWorld chair fabric... solves the sonosub finishing problem.
l8tr...😎
John L.
WOW ! amazing . Does this kicker sonosub go low down to 20Hz ? How is the quality of sub if used alone ?
plumbing the depths...
dunno yet... wife and kids have to be out of the house b4 I crank it THAT loud... according to the spreadsheet, it should be down 3 dB @ 108 spl power limited (but we all know about calculations)😉
BUT... with both sonosubs and the mids on the linesources running, organ music, things like "Gates of Kiev, Mussorsky", etc. are downright frightening even at 100dB or so.... you should see the cat run!!!
I'll have to run a sweep if I get some time alone in the house... unfortunately, 20 Hz is highly room dependent, so I might have to place the mic ouside the house to actually detect it
Evan
It's for 2 channel, but I have 2 more (one isobaric loaded) up above the garage for the HT... augmenting my old heavily modded Infinity RS II's
John L.
Buzzy said:WOW ! amazing . Does this kicker sonosub go low down to 20Hz ? How is the quality of sub if used alone ?
dunno yet... wife and kids have to be out of the house b4 I crank it THAT loud... according to the spreadsheet, it should be down 3 dB @ 108 spl power limited (but we all know about calculations)😉

BUT... with both sonosubs and the mids on the linesources running, organ music, things like "Gates of Kiev, Mussorsky", etc. are downright frightening even at 100dB or so.... you should see the cat run!!!
I'll have to run a sweep if I get some time alone in the house... unfortunately, 20 Hz is highly room dependent, so I might have to place the mic ouside the house to actually detect it

Evan
It's for 2 channel, but I have 2 more (one isobaric loaded) up above the garage for the HT... augmenting my old heavily modded Infinity RS II's
John L.
quick check
I ran some quick non controlled tests to confirm output...
had to lay the subs on their side to keep the floor from shaking so much...
setting my (admittedly crappy) ratshack spl meter for 100 dB @ 30 Hz... measured ~ 6 feet from the speaker end and sweeping down to 16 Hz, the output rolled off for the Titanic @ about 18 hz -3 dB with alot of distortion/upper harmonics...
the kicker swept down from 30Hz rolled off to -3 dB @ about 22 Hz with significantly less harmonic content..hmmnn
Couldn't get much in-room distance measurements since it's a large room with a dominant mode at ~32 Hz (1/2 wavelength floor to ceiling in foyer 17') where the 32 Hz output pegs the meter and the pressure is near unbearable...
With both subs only running @ 22 Hz @ 100 dB 6' away, the entire house shakes and rattles noticeably, with all sorts of buzzes and pops, pictures moving like they wanna fall, windows rattling, stuff falling off of shelves... i didn't run too long at this level
...plus the overpressure made my ears pop and the pressure was intense...
I didn't correct for the ratshacks falling response w/freq. but seem to recall about +4 dB correction at 20 Hz relative to 30 hz...
I ran some quick non controlled tests to confirm output...
had to lay the subs on their side to keep the floor from shaking so much...
setting my (admittedly crappy) ratshack spl meter for 100 dB @ 30 Hz... measured ~ 6 feet from the speaker end and sweeping down to 16 Hz, the output rolled off for the Titanic @ about 18 hz -3 dB with alot of distortion/upper harmonics...
the kicker swept down from 30Hz rolled off to -3 dB @ about 22 Hz with significantly less harmonic content..hmmnn
Couldn't get much in-room distance measurements since it's a large room with a dominant mode at ~32 Hz (1/2 wavelength floor to ceiling in foyer 17') where the 32 Hz output pegs the meter and the pressure is near unbearable...
With both subs only running @ 22 Hz @ 100 dB 6' away, the entire house shakes and rattles noticeably, with all sorts of buzzes and pops, pictures moving like they wanna fall, windows rattling, stuff falling off of shelves... i didn't run too long at this level

...plus the overpressure made my ears pop and the pressure was intense...
I didn't correct for the ratshacks falling response w/freq. but seem to recall about +4 dB correction at 20 Hz relative to 30 hz...
Any chance of design guides?AndrewT said:Hi,
could you post your links to the design guides for sonotube?
Buzzy said:Will i be able to get this kind of results with a box type enclosure ?
If you brace it well enough and design according to standard ported guidelines, I s'ppose it would be similar... not sure I'd want to have to build an ~8 ft^3 box though ... that's the advantage of the sonotube... enclosure is "pre-built"... all you need to do is cut the endcaps... and the 4" port is only 5.635" in length and "way up in the air" to isolate any port noise
AndrewT said:
Any chance of design guides?
I'll see if I can put something together, Andrew... off the top, it's really just a standard ported design, except for the extended bass shelf loading, as shown on the spreadsheet... I'll upload that sheet when I get a chance... it's an old one from ~ 12 years ago or so...
I cut the endcaps from 3/4" scrap plywood I had lying around, used a Jasper jig and a router to cut the endcaps and concentric pot and driver mounting holes.
More l8tr
John L.
OT: Plating
Auplater...
I tried to e-mail, but you have that blocked. I am curious as to your line of work. If it entails titrations, current density, and possible knowledge of ASTM B488-01 and QQ-N-290, then please get a hold of me. I have a professional question for you.
Thanks for any help!
Auplater...
I tried to e-mail, but you have that blocked. I am curious as to your line of work. If it entails titrations, current density, and possible knowledge of ASTM B488-01 and QQ-N-290, then please get a hold of me. I have a professional question for you.
Thanks for any help!
i modeled the kicker c12 in a smaller box of 140L , giving it 100W of signal in winisd pro shows that it hits xmax at 20Hz. It such a low power but it bottoms out ? Do u have this problem ?
Buzzy said:i modeled the kicker c12 in a smaller box of 140L , giving it 100W of signal in winisd pro shows that it hits xmax at 20Hz. It such a low power but it bottoms out ? Do u have this problem ?
That sounds about right... with ~89 dB sensitivity, @ 100W input the sub should excursion limit @ around 108 - 110 dB, which roughly coincides with the spreadsheet i show above @ 20 Hz -3 dB point on the right chart, with the EBS alignment. However, on the red chart, I modeled @ roughly the same volume (138 L), and notice the sub is limited to ~103 dB, down9 dB... so you give up bass extension AND power handling. That's why I choose EBS (along with that was the size of the freebie sonotube😀)
BUT... that's REALLY LOUD @ 20 Hz.... I've never run anywhere near 100 watts sustained into these drivers, and get more than enough output... unless you're running an outdoor live concert (where you'd probably want a stacked array anyway)
John L.
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