Folks over on TechTalk liked this so I'll post it here too...
I've got some truncated faceplate tweeters and I didn't feel like using the other methods I've seen for routing odd shapped driver recesses on baffles. So, here's what I did:
I put a couple layers of scotch tape around my tweeter faceplate, set it down on a piece of foil, then formed epoxy putty around it. I repeated, then placed the previously made template on top of the new one while it was still soft and pressed them together to end up with double the thickness.
You could use the putty to either make templates, or, to fill in parts of a circular cut out. For using this epoxy putty stuff to become a permanent part of your baffle (such as filling in a circular cutout where the driver is truncated) I recommend doing the same thing I did for my templates: put 2 - 3 layers of scotch tape around the faceplate to leave enough room to paint, screw your tweeters in, then push the putty in place. You'll have to experiement perhaps, to determine how to best prepare the wood surface for the putty to bond? Maybe sanding sealer? Maybe brush a little thinned wood glue on first and let it dry fully? Regardless, make sure the surface is clean and dust free. Then once it's hard carefully sand it smooth.
It might actually be easier to make a round cutout, then fill with this putty, than trying to make + use a jig/template like I am...
There are many different brands and types of this sort of "epoxy putty" - here is one that looks like it would be good for wood baffles:
http://www.andax.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Product=EP-WOOD
The one I got at Lowe's is "steel filled" so I think that will dull your tools faster, if you want to saw it after it's hardened - should still be fine for sanding though.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...70D&lpage=none
Here are some pics:
I've got some truncated faceplate tweeters and I didn't feel like using the other methods I've seen for routing odd shapped driver recesses on baffles. So, here's what I did:
I put a couple layers of scotch tape around my tweeter faceplate, set it down on a piece of foil, then formed epoxy putty around it. I repeated, then placed the previously made template on top of the new one while it was still soft and pressed them together to end up with double the thickness.
You could use the putty to either make templates, or, to fill in parts of a circular cut out. For using this epoxy putty stuff to become a permanent part of your baffle (such as filling in a circular cutout where the driver is truncated) I recommend doing the same thing I did for my templates: put 2 - 3 layers of scotch tape around the faceplate to leave enough room to paint, screw your tweeters in, then push the putty in place. You'll have to experiement perhaps, to determine how to best prepare the wood surface for the putty to bond? Maybe sanding sealer? Maybe brush a little thinned wood glue on first and let it dry fully? Regardless, make sure the surface is clean and dust free. Then once it's hard carefully sand it smooth.
It might actually be easier to make a round cutout, then fill with this putty, than trying to make + use a jig/template like I am...
There are many different brands and types of this sort of "epoxy putty" - here is one that looks like it would be good for wood baffles:
http://www.andax.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Product=EP-WOOD
The one I got at Lowe's is "steel filled" so I think that will dull your tools faster, if you want to saw it after it's hardened - should still be fine for sanding though.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...70D&lpage=none
Here are some pics:
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