How hard is it to build a P3a amp?

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Little background of me. I am a engineer and willing to learn new things but I hated my E.E. classes in college. But I am considered a soldering expert at where I work(making joints as small as .0001" with solder)


Now that i got that out of the way I happened on this site from the video area and have been wandering between here and the speakers section for a little while.

I would like to build some speakers soon and I figured if I could build the crossovers(which I have no idea how to construct from the diagrams, I understand what each symbol consists of though) I might give a amp a whirl.


So I would like to try building a p3a amp for two speakers, but I would like to know what these things cost and how difficult they are to build?

I haven't really found a page that goes into detail of what you need for this amp though, I know there are some out there but they really don't consist of how to build this thing.

thanks for your time
 
Well first I would recomend you buy his boards. They make things a snap and you get a nice construction guide to go along with it.

This fellows web page also helps quite a bit http://www.anidian.com/audio/construct/p3a_1.shtml

I have just finished a 4 amp box (2 boards) based on his design and it did take me quite some time, it was my first project, but not bad at all.

Cost has been around $350 Canadian. This is with some mistakes though.

I hope this helps.

Ted
 
AJ,

I would encourage you to take a shot at building the P3A. It is a great first project, and a lot of people have had success with it and are willing to help you out if you run into problems.

The biggest expense in building an amp is the transformer and the heatsink. If you want to be frugal, you could salvage these parts from an old amp or try to find them used. I've accumulated quite a stash of heatsinks and transformers by keeping a watchful eye on ebay auctions. The rest of the parts for a pair of amps can be had for around $50. If you are interested, drop me an email for a parts list from Digi Key and MCM.

I opted to use breadboard rather than the PCB. It may be slightly easier to stuff a PCB compared to wiring up a breadboard, but once you have a layout in hand, both methods are relatively easy to execute if you take your time and have some basic soldering skills.

If you have specific questions, feel free to drop me a line.

- Rory
 

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hey guys, it has been really helpfull with the links and such.

I am looking for absolute simplicity here so if I could purchase the completed PCB somewhere it would be nice.

What I have figure out from looking around the net and here is what I have found

-Need two p3a amps
-Need a power supply(not sure if two though)
-Need a 4u chasis
-Need two heatsinks


I know I am missing some things but if someone could give me a cost breakdown with what I just listed that would be great.


BTW how many solder joints are there gonna be to each p3a amp? From the picture Rory posted it looks like 6 solders spots per amp(6 wires that are going into the amp)
 
Here's a quick cost estimate:

- You can buy a PCB from Rod for about $25 (the PCB has two channels) http://sound.westhost.com/purchase.htm
- The components for the amps will cost you around $50.
- A 300VA toroid from Plitron will cost around $55 shipped.
- 4,700uF x 4 for the power supply costs $15.
- A 2U economy chasis from Parts Express costs $40.
- You can probably find a suitable heatsink on ebay for $20.
- Add an extra $20 for connectors.

Total cost for two channels: $225 (give or take)

However, let me add the disclaimer that there are a lot of options when building an amp that can raise or lower the cost depending on your preferences and budget. For example, you could find deals on the transformer, heatsink(s) and filter caps by reusing parts from a dead amp or looking around on ebay or surplus stores. On the other hand, you may want to build dual power supplies and add more filter caps, which could easily add another $100 to the price. You could also spring for a nicer chasis.

The number of connections to the board will probably vary by layout. Mine has connections for V+, V-, ground, output, input and front end ground. I believe Rod's board will have two inputs, two outputs and a V+,V- and ground that is shared by both channels (although this is just a guess from pictures I've seen). If you are inquiring about the total number of solder joints, it is probably somewhere around 100/channel if you use a PCB.

Let me also add that if sourcing all the parts seems a bit intimidating, you might want to consider ordering an AKSA kit from Hugh at Aspen Amplifiers. http://www.aksaonline.com This will save you the trouble of figuring out which components to order and trying to determine the best power supply configuration. Hugh includes a fair amount of information about the kits on his site and seems more than willing to answer questions.

- Rory
 
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