Hi all,
I'm new here, so I hope somebody can help me out.
I'm wan't to build a subwoofer to complete the bottom of my Dynaudio BM 6 studio monitors. http://www.dynaudioacoustics.com/Default.asp?Id=275
I ordered a Peerless 10" with a passive slave 265grams to go in a front loaded cabinet. I don't wan't a booming sub, just a good frequence response to control the lowest part of the material I mix.
Got some discription from the internet and made a drawing. Can give me some clues if I'm going to get good results?
I'm gonna put some more information on this site as soon as I start building...
Thanx, John
I'm new here, so I hope somebody can help me out.
I'm wan't to build a subwoofer to complete the bottom of my Dynaudio BM 6 studio monitors. http://www.dynaudioacoustics.com/Default.asp?Id=275
I ordered a Peerless 10" with a passive slave 265grams to go in a front loaded cabinet. I don't wan't a booming sub, just a good frequence response to control the lowest part of the material I mix.
Got some discription from the internet and made a drawing. Can give me some clues if I'm going to get good results?
I'm gonna put some more information on this site as soon as I start building...
Thanx, John
Attachments
Have you seen this design already? Maybe it can give you an idea about the possible end result.
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/
Regards
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/
Regards
I used the standard guide that comes with the router, turned it up side down, and put it back in the router like u use it when you want to cut straight guided lines or edges. Mine has 2 holes in it, in line with the bit. I drilled a 4mm hole in the center of the speaker position and used a 5mm screw from the bottom center of the hole. As it comes out at the other end, you can place the little hole around it, and then adjust it exactly to get the desired diameter. It’s very accurate, the speaker just fit in, not able to move at all.
I have finished the cabinet, and doing some test right now, my first impression is amazing! It perfectly matches with the Dynaudio BM 6 speakers. For now I’m using an Alesis RA 500 amplifier directly connected to the sub out of my soundcard. Still don’t now what kind of amp I’m going to use; Thommessen Proteus SW2.5, Hypex DS 2.0. Suggestions are welcome.
I have finished the cabinet, and doing some test right now, my first impression is amazing! It perfectly matches with the Dynaudio BM 6 speakers. For now I’m using an Alesis RA 500 amplifier directly connected to the sub out of my soundcard. Still don’t now what kind of amp I’m going to use; Thommessen Proteus SW2.5, Hypex DS 2.0. Suggestions are welcome.
Attachments
John
My first plate amp was a Proteus 1.6 from Thommessen, a good amplifier at reasonable cost with lot's of adjustment possibilities. When it broke down (electrical storm) I was trying to contact Thommessen via email (several) and they didn't even bother to reply. I than bought me a Hypex DS 2.0. I'm very satisfied with this one. They are both good amplifiers but I think you are better of with the Hypex amp regarding support afterwards, and it's a Dutch product
My 2 cents
Regards
My first plate amp was a Proteus 1.6 from Thommessen, a good amplifier at reasonable cost with lot's of adjustment possibilities. When it broke down (electrical storm) I was trying to contact Thommessen via email (several) and they didn't even bother to reply. I than bought me a Hypex DS 2.0. I'm very satisfied with this one. They are both good amplifiers but I think you are better of with the Hypex amp regarding support afterwards, and it's a Dutch product
My 2 cents
Regards
Thank you for your advice.
So for about 400 euro the Hypex is the best choice?
Do you know if there are any other brands out there?
I have enough power driving XLS with 125/150 watt, because during mixing I try to keep the monitor level around 88dB. Now and then I want to use the sub to check the bottom end of the mix. When everything is ready I’m going to move my setup into the studio.
Is somebody using this kind of sub in his or her studio? 2.1 or 5.1 setup?
Kind regards
So for about 400 euro the Hypex is the best choice?
Do you know if there are any other brands out there?
I have enough power driving XLS with 125/150 watt, because during mixing I try to keep the monitor level around 88dB. Now and then I want to use the sub to check the bottom end of the mix. When everything is ready I’m going to move my setup into the studio.
Is somebody using this kind of sub in his or her studio? 2.1 or 5.1 setup?
Kind regards
Ok, do you think it’s worth the money to go for the Hypex 4.0, or will the 2.0 provide me with enough headroom? I would like to spend some more if my amp would really make a difference in performance. Don’t know if I will run the 2.0 at full power, but I want to have enough power to handle a lot of dynamics.
Regards
Regards
Ok; I’m going to do some testing, and let you know what is going to be the outcome of it.
I also do think the 2.0 will do just fine for my kind of purpose. So far the result of the design is awesome, much better then I had expected. I have listened to several so called high end subs, like Rell and Velodyne, but this is for sure what I was looking for! It’s smooth trough the whole frequency range, without any bumps like many home cinema subs have. The dynamic performance is excellent and it ads more then enough bottom combined with the small Dynaudio speakers without (very important for me) masking any detail in the low/low-mid range of the whole picture. This weekend I’m going to try it in a 5.1 setup, see what it does with some Star Wars and Top Gun. Next week I’ll run some serious test in the studio, because the building I live in didn’t like the gong drums from Toto’s – I Will Remember ;-)
Thnx again,
John
I also do think the 2.0 will do just fine for my kind of purpose. So far the result of the design is awesome, much better then I had expected. I have listened to several so called high end subs, like Rell and Velodyne, but this is for sure what I was looking for! It’s smooth trough the whole frequency range, without any bumps like many home cinema subs have. The dynamic performance is excellent and it ads more then enough bottom combined with the small Dynaudio speakers without (very important for me) masking any detail in the low/low-mid range of the whole picture. This weekend I’m going to try it in a 5.1 setup, see what it does with some Star Wars and Top Gun. Next week I’ll run some serious test in the studio, because the building I live in didn’t like the gong drums from Toto’s – I Will Remember ;-)
Thnx again,
John
Attachments
Do you own a 12” already? You might want to consider a 10” configuration. How big is your room and what is the distance from your speakers to you listening position? This sub is giving me much headroom, don’t think I will ever use it at full power. But if you already own a 12” you need to do some calculations on the design to get it suite the XLS-12. I’m using a 60 x 35 x 35cm cabinet made out of 22mm MDF. As you can see on the drawing, it takes some bracing to keep things from vibrating. If you need some numbers I can try to recalculate them for the XLS-12, but the cabinet is going to be bigger… Keep you posted.
Kind Regards
Kind Regards
Attachments
Hi! I was pointed to this topic by another DIY-er, who thought your sub might be better suited for me than this one.
http://www.vikash.info/audio/xls10/index.asp
What I'm curious about, is the design. I see in both the drawings and the photo a 90mm x 306mm empty cavity in the box. What is it's purpose and can it be "deleted", allowing for smaller outer dimensions? The reason I ask is I'm also planning to build a decent sub with plenty dynamics and plenty deep bass extension without coloration. I also own Dynaudio speakers (Audience 122 + 122 Center) that lack a little punch in the low end and lack sub bass below 40Hz. This design looks rather appealing, but it's a bit too big for the small room I live in. I'm a former student, just graduated, still living in a small room, but in need of big sound...
If the 90mm x 306mm cavity can be deleted, the box can be kept 350mm x 350mm, but less than 600mm tall. Which would be perfect for my situation, dimension wise. But what about sound? Will it work in a 13m2 room, or is it too big? I plan to be using one of these two amps: RCM Detonation DT 150 or DT 300.
Thanks for any input!
http://www.vikash.info/audio/xls10/index.asp
What I'm curious about, is the design. I see in both the drawings and the photo a 90mm x 306mm empty cavity in the box. What is it's purpose and can it be "deleted", allowing for smaller outer dimensions? The reason I ask is I'm also planning to build a decent sub with plenty dynamics and plenty deep bass extension without coloration. I also own Dynaudio speakers (Audience 122 + 122 Center) that lack a little punch in the low end and lack sub bass below 40Hz. This design looks rather appealing, but it's a bit too big for the small room I live in. I'm a former student, just graduated, still living in a small room, but in need of big sound...
If the 90mm x 306mm cavity can be deleted, the box can be kept 350mm x 350mm, but less than 600mm tall. Which would be perfect for my situation, dimension wise. But what about sound? Will it work in a 13m2 room, or is it too big? I plan to be using one of these two amps: RCM Detonation DT 150 or DT 300.
Thanks for any input!
Jamesblond
If you read Sander's article about the 10" sub it will be clear why those two spaces are there. Go to the construction page
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/
You can omit them if you want.
Regards
If you read Sander's article about the 10" sub it will be clear why those two spaces are there. Go to the construction page
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/
You can omit them if you want.
Regards
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