Sorry, no picture yet...
But I found this interesting:
Get rid of that SAA7220 :
http://www.net-audio.co.uk/tda1541nos.html
But then you loose digital out...?
Arne K
But I found this interesting:
Get rid of that SAA7220 :
http://www.net-audio.co.uk/tda1541nos.html
But then you loose digital out...?
Arne K
And the non-os converter/clock.
I have also updated nearly all caps, OsCons around digital circuits, and Elna elsewhere.
AD825 op-amps out...
Have not changed all the smd caps for the TDA1541 yet.
And wanted to check the analog part...
-but Philips Norway is unable to supply schematics for this model
So far, it still have a long way to go...to compete with my Yamaha or Marantz...
Arne K
I have also updated nearly all caps, OsCons around digital circuits, and Elna elsewhere.
AD825 op-amps out...
Have not changed all the smd caps for the TDA1541 yet.
And wanted to check the analog part...
-but Philips Norway is unable to supply schematics for this model
So far, it still have a long way to go...to compete with my Yamaha or Marantz...
Arne K
Attachments
How did it sound *with* the 7220 ? I haven't heard the non os module you used. I normally use a Tent clock in these cdplayers and leave the 7220 where it is. I recently compared one of the cdplayers I have with a newer Sony machine that was unmodified and the Philips was *slightly* less good than the 1000 Euro Sony ( but it was 14 years older ). You have to see their quality in the light of their age of course.
I am seeing a hype around these old Philips cdplayers that I helped to create unfortunately. You have to realise that these cdplayers offer a very good price-quality ratio for DIY purposes. The idea to compare them with 3000 $ and up cdplayers would not come up in my mind but some of them can withstand the competition with expensive cdplayers. The more expensive ones of that time like CD80 are very hard to beat, even today. CD582 is a plastic budget machine that was never designed to be high end.
They also are reliable. Some of the series sound a lot better than others although fitted with the same laser/mechanism and the same DAC etc. They all do need work to shine. Some are real pearls with only a few mods.
BTW the mainboard you showed is a commonly used PCB in most of the standard types of that series. Marantz CD65 has the same board for instance. Please remove the opamps that's in between the MUSE output caps ( headphone amp ). Replace all caps and wire it for 240 V instead 220 V. The transformer has 240 V windings. You can also change the blue KP caps in the filter section for styroflex types. The ones that are used now are magnetic/ferro types. Remove the muting transistors, they have a bad influence on the sound quality. Be sure to shield the plastic case as they are made of plastic and these cdplayers radiate some RF. When the bottom of the case is sandwiched with a 2 or 3 mm metal sheet it will benefit from it. I once used stainless steel and that one sounded very good.
I am seeing a hype around these old Philips cdplayers that I helped to create unfortunately. You have to realise that these cdplayers offer a very good price-quality ratio for DIY purposes. The idea to compare them with 3000 $ and up cdplayers would not come up in my mind but some of them can withstand the competition with expensive cdplayers. The more expensive ones of that time like CD80 are very hard to beat, even today. CD582 is a plastic budget machine that was never designed to be high end.
They also are reliable. Some of the series sound a lot better than others although fitted with the same laser/mechanism and the same DAC etc. They all do need work to shine. Some are real pearls with only a few mods.
BTW the mainboard you showed is a commonly used PCB in most of the standard types of that series. Marantz CD65 has the same board for instance. Please remove the opamps that's in between the MUSE output caps ( headphone amp ). Replace all caps and wire it for 240 V instead 220 V. The transformer has 240 V windings. You can also change the blue KP caps in the filter section for styroflex types. The ones that are used now are magnetic/ferro types. Remove the muting transistors, they have a bad influence on the sound quality. Be sure to shield the plastic case as they are made of plastic and these cdplayers radiate some RF. When the bottom of the case is sandwiched with a 2 or 3 mm metal sheet it will benefit from it. I once used stainless steel and that one sounded very good.
Thanks for your input, Jean-Paul!
At the beginning, (unmodified) it did not sound much good at all.
Dull and uninvolving.
But for $ 15 seconhand, I expected that....
And I also do not expect it to be as good as the Marantz CD-16 I use as transport, due to all the plastic, and little psu.
I grabbed it mainly to "test" the TDA1541 DAC, and to see if it could come close to the TDA1543, non-os.
I have changed some of the blue axial-caps, but not all yet.
Maybe I will try that. And remove the headphone op-amp, no need for that.
Have trouble locating the mute transistors, as there are at-least 6 smd units under the board...maybe only aditional de-empasing?
(Then they all can go...)
Arne K
At the beginning, (unmodified) it did not sound much good at all.
Dull and uninvolving.
But for $ 15 seconhand, I expected that....
And I also do not expect it to be as good as the Marantz CD-16 I use as transport, due to all the plastic, and little psu.
I grabbed it mainly to "test" the TDA1541 DAC, and to see if it could come close to the TDA1543, non-os.
I have changed some of the blue axial-caps, but not all yet.
Maybe I will try that. And remove the headphone op-amp, no need for that.
Have trouble locating the mute transistors, as there are at-least 6 smd units under the board...maybe only aditional de-empasing?
(Then they all can go...)
Arne K
My very expensive Sonic Frontiers SFT-1 transport just died this weekend. It sounds like the transport is slowing down and then resuming speed. The sound gets distorted, and then returns, and the HDCD light flickers out when this happens (although not the signal lock light). While I investigate if I can fix this or replace the transport mechanism, I pulled out a CDB582 that I had picked up in a pile of garbage (along with some Macintosh computers). It works fine, and I have been listening to it for a day or so. I'm actually impressed with it, a bit harsh/bright, but good detail, imaging and bass. I have the service manual for the older CDB465, which is similar in some ways, but the 582 has a bit of a different output stage. I don't see any muting transistors, unless they are smt on the back of the board. It uses an LM833 for each channel, probably I/V, and a JRC4xxx for output buffer (from what I can tell.) I think this player has some potential, I've already got a short list of mods to do, power supply related and output stage mainly. Maybe a Kwak Clock. I'm also going to put on a digital output, as I'm expecting my Analog Devices AD1896/1852 d/a upsampler eval. board to arrive end of next month.
Oh, by the way, this unit reads table of contents very quickly and has no problems with CDRs, which the SF unit does (it often gets an ERROR if I skip tracks using cheap CDRs, but not expensive Kodak discs).
Keep us informed of your mods.
Ron
Oh, by the way, this unit reads table of contents very quickly and has no problems with CDRs, which the SF unit does (it often gets an ERROR if I skip tracks using cheap CDRs, but not expensive Kodak discs).
Keep us informed of your mods.
Ron
Hi, transducer!
Get that SFT-1 up and running, it is a good transport, even if it is a bit moody on those CD-R's...(I used to have one).
The laser assembly is a common Philips CDM12.4, cheap to replace.
On the CD582, only the LM833 are for the output, change to your favourite flavour dual op-amp. And change the two electrolytic DC-blocking caps for something better, or at-least bypass them with a film-cap. The mute-transistors are SMD, underside.
The last op-amp is for headphone, and is pretty useless, as this player has no volume-level for this. Remove it.
Still waiting for schematics...you can mail ultranalog from the e-mail-button on his post (not his homepage?).
Arne K
Get that SFT-1 up and running, it is a good transport, even if it is a bit moody on those CD-R's...(I used to have one).
The laser assembly is a common Philips CDM12.4, cheap to replace.
On the CD582, only the LM833 are for the output, change to your favourite flavour dual op-amp. And change the two electrolytic DC-blocking caps for something better, or at-least bypass them with a film-cap. The mute-transistors are SMD, underside.
The last op-amp is for headphone, and is pretty useless, as this player has no volume-level for this. Remove it.
Still waiting for schematics...you can mail ultranalog from the e-mail-button on his post (not his homepage?).
Arne K
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