I'm posting this for anyone who needs a good and emphasize Good quality Sub-woofer . I originally bout 4 MCM 55-2421 8" woofers ( incredible quality ) to build an transmission Horn sub cabinet but after really thinking about how big this would be in my little 12'x 13' room I decided to down size I built 2 really simple 11"x 15.5" x 22" ( outside) sealed w/ 3lb. of fiberglass insulation. These woofer have an Xmax of 16mm and move some big time air. If I were to use them in a bigger room I would definitely port them. But in this sealed cabinet they get down as low as 10Hz you feel the bass in your chest. I have these coupled to a 200w plate amp each.'
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Sounds impressive. Over on HTS I have a thread called "Easiest DIY sub?" I think it is. It is simialr to my "bose cannon knock-off" here on diy. While I did not of course invent it, I have been rattling stuff for months now with a 12' (actually cut it to about 10 1/2') 12" dia. Sonotube + 12" sub driver with pretty impressive results. I claim a rarity in DIY speakers: "carpentry free" ... ongoing problem is how to mount the driver so that it doesn't come undone. Of course, having an unfinished huge tube in the living room is not to everyone's taste, but if you saw my living room you would not accuse me of having any 🙂
My intended room is just about the same size with an 8 foot ceiling, it sounds like one of them might suit my needs. Or a pair housed in separate boxes.
There both 8ohm speakers that are wired in series for 4 olms . they will rattle the walls if I turn bot units up to just 50 watts .They are only $ 29.00 they are going up steadily in price as they sell more of them as I only paid $24.00ea. 1 year ago....
Build just one box with 2 drivers this be all you will need and would easily suffice for room twice as large , I only built 2 cabinets just because I had the speakers ..... and they both can give you that earthquake feel all through your body. its an overkill for my little room and there easy on your budget....
Something to think about. The price sounds right for sure, more could go towards amplification. Speaking of which what are you powering and filtering them with? I'd like to get one of the Hypex plates with dsp but I'm pretty sure no one sells them over here.
I have Yung plate amps built in to them part # 301-508 @ Parts Express they handle all the crossover freq. Bass Freq's. do not need as much power to drive a woofer.... 200 watts is more than you really need inside of a home. Any more amplification is just going to drive the amp harder and a waist of money for home use as you would rarely if ever would crank it over 200 watts.
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Cut a circular piece of 3/4" MDF the size of the inside diameter of your tube then cut a speaker opening in it glue this inside your tube and WaLa your Got it mounted...
May try that next. Currently am trying caulk again but this time with an old tennis ball wedged between the voice coil of the driver and the tube to try and hold the driver in place 🙂
Mounting
You need to mount the driver in solid that calking your using will allow frame movement and you will not get full reproduction of sound....
You need to mount the driver in solid that calking your using will allow frame movement and you will not get full reproduction of sound....
MDF or plywood cable spool ends might come in 12" diameters. If you can find some abandoned ones (I encounter them everywhere). Sandwich a couple three together, ones I've seen are only about 3/8" thickness. At least that would save from doing the precise outer cuts..might just have to sand a little if its a snug fit. You can cut the speaker hole with a drill and a swift bruce lee chop if need be. Screwing it in place through the sono would absolutely be best.
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Yes on the screws and a little glue around the edges to seal it air tight . most defiantly would be better than just chalking them in....
I use silicone to mount all of my drivers!
Never had a problem yet!!!
Just don't use it on a recessed driver or else you won't be able to get a knife in there to cut the rubber should you need to get one out.
If it is a working driver you won't be able to pry them out without bending and warping the frame unless it is a cast frame using this method.
Screws and T-nuts are a better way to go but you may need to put some Loctite (or super glue on the back side of the screw head) on them as well if they tend vibrate loose.
Also use a spring type lock washer too.
This way you can screw the screw without over tightening them reducing the risk of warping the frame as well.
Although, lock washers may not be necessary if you are using some sort of gasket material between the speaker frame and the mounting baffle.
jer 🙂
Never had a problem yet!!!
Just don't use it on a recessed driver or else you won't be able to get a knife in there to cut the rubber should you need to get one out.
If it is a working driver you won't be able to pry them out without bending and warping the frame unless it is a cast frame using this method.
Screws and T-nuts are a better way to go but you may need to put some Loctite (or super glue on the back side of the screw head) on them as well if they tend vibrate loose.
Also use a spring type lock washer too.
This way you can screw the screw without over tightening them reducing the risk of warping the frame as well.
Although, lock washers may not be necessary if you are using some sort of gasket material between the speaker frame and the mounting baffle.
jer 🙂
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Non-sense. I'm running a 15" Cerwin-Vega Stroker in a ported enclosure off a 300W RMS Bash amplifier that I bought from Parts Express. I crank it to the max, and while it gets plenty loud, it certainly isn't always loud enough. For those times, I hook the Stroker up to a Peavey CS800X. 😉
Hi,
FWIW the excellent MCM drivers really will go into tiny sealed
well stuffed cabinets and give a well damped slow 2nd order
roll-off that if it matches your room gain well gives deep bass.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW the excellent MCM drivers really will go into tiny sealed
well stuffed cabinets and give a well damped slow 2nd order
roll-off that if it matches your room gain well gives deep bass.
rgds, sreten.
You can say nonsense all you want if your into deafening your ears or have a trashy speaker you may need all that amperage and they will not stack up against my 2x 8" subs there's a thing called quality reproduction not over exaggeration 200 watts is more than enough for my unit.
Keep in mind ,I have 2 sets of these and Im most certain they could carry deep bass in a room twice as large and bigger.
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