Question regarding faulty Dayton products

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I have a 15" Angstrom subwoofer that decided to give up. It was 12 years old, the amp was replaced once under warranty. It's very small and didn't sound like a 15" at all being so underpowered. Anyways, after it blew up I phoned Solen (I'm in Canada), and the technician was very knowledgeable and suggested the Dayton Audio DCS380-4 15" woofer, and the Dayton Audio SA230 standalone subwoofer amp. They came in, and the first subwoofer was seized right out of the box. So I had to do a warranty claim on that and received the new one. I got it set up, and it sounded great! Huge difference over the old woofer and tiny amp. I turned on the TV yesterday and just from the music in the background of a commercial it made one quick hit and then stopped completely. I assumed the amp blew a fuse, but I can't open it up without voiding the warranty so I had to make a claim.
Out of boredom tonight I took the new sub out and put the new one in and it works! No issue with the amp at all. This is two Dayton subs, one I never got to use once and one I got to use 3 or 4 times, without any abuse. Is this common for these subs? Is there another 15" sub that can be recommended?? Just seems so weird they would blow up so easily, especially over just a very quiet commercial.
 

GM

Member
Joined 2003
Is the driver also down-firing? If so, it's sprung much too loosely [high Vas] for this, so sooner or later would quit working due to eventually sagging so much that as soon as it got a positive signal at any amplitude to move it a bit would pop the VC out of the gap and hang up going back in. Really, its low Fs alone would make it marginal.

GM
 
Is the driver also down-firing? If so, it's sprung much too loosely [high Vas] for this, so sooner or later would quit working due to eventually sagging so much that as soon as it got a positive signal at any amplitude to move it a bit would pop the VC out of the gap and hang up going back in. Really, its low Fs alone would make it marginal.

GM

My apologies, it's a down firing subwoofer and the ports are on the side. Does the same scenario apply??

Also, I just talked to Solen and got the reference series instead. Price went from $87 to $189, so I would assume it's quite a bit better!
 
This driver is a much worse choice for down-firing! Low Fs drivers must have very stiff suspensions [low Vas] such as one often finds in car audio sub specs. You will have to lay it on its side to locate the driver vertically. Being so near the floor though, it will still get good boundary loading. You'll need some sort of isolation pad to lay it on and ideally be mass loaded to the floor, i.e. place something really big, heavy on it such as a large potted plant.

I'm curious, did you tell Solen it was down-firing and they still sold you these drivers? If so, please make them aware of this, though it seems incredible that they wouldn't.

http://www.acmebass.com/andysworld/pdf/downwoof.pdf

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/DriverOrientation.pdf

Resources - Woofer Mount Up Down

GM
 
I really appreciate your input! I told them the size of the box, and I can't recall mentioning if it's downfiring. I wonder, can I lay it on it's side and essentially make it a front firing? If so would way would I aim the ports??

Thanks you guys for any input!

edit: Maybe I'll call Solen and talk to a technician and see what they say
 
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This is how it sits now, could I take feet off and put them on the side and make it front firing?
 

This is how it sits now, could I take feet off and put them on the side and make it front firing?[/QUOTE]
To preserve the port tuning (assuming the port is downfiring) and driver loading and acoustical bandpass it would be preferable to leave the feet on and put the driver facing the wall. Because of the molding, the lower feet would need to be removed to keep the correct spacing.

That said, try it both ways and choose the one you prefer.
 
To preserve the port tuning (assuming the port is downfiring) and driver loading and acoustical bandpass it would be preferable to leave the feet on and put the driver facing the wall. Because of the molding, the lower feet would need to be removed to keep the correct spacing.

That said, try it both ways and choose the one you prefer.

Thanks! I will experiment and see what works best!
 
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