Hi, i want to find a good amp for these 2 drivers (Fane Colossus 18XB) Fane International Ltd Loud Speakers and i'm doubting between this 2: 1.- THE T.AMP PROLINE 3000 - Thomann Cyberstore Español 2.- THE T.AMP D3400 - Thomann Cyberstore Español but i don't really have much knowledge about amplifiers. So i would like some advice. What against, what in favor. Or if i should better look for some different amplifier. thx for you help.
hi endrek, I have had a great deal of experience with the mentioned drivers and amplifiers.
I would !NEVER! use the D3400 amplifier on bass - it is a very weak amp, especially on bass. It also doesnt give out the claimed power! I have heard of several units going boom too.
The Proline 3000 however is a brilliant amplifier on sub and absolutely pounds! For the price it is VERY hard to beat. total workhorse.
In terms of speaker matching, the proline is a very good match for the 18XB. Just ensure that the peak light doesnt activate too often and it will be fine. With that amount of amp power, you will need to be conservative with the highpass however.
You can also look into void amplifiers, I own a QX5 made by them, but the X6 / X7 will be perfect for your application.
I would !NEVER! use the D3400 amplifier on bass - it is a very weak amp, especially on bass. It also doesnt give out the claimed power! I have heard of several units going boom too.
The Proline 3000 however is a brilliant amplifier on sub and absolutely pounds! For the price it is VERY hard to beat. total workhorse.
In terms of speaker matching, the proline is a very good match for the 18XB. Just ensure that the peak light doesnt activate too often and it will be fine. With that amount of amp power, you will need to be conservative with the highpass however.
You can also look into void amplifiers, I own a QX5 made by them, but the X6 / X7 will be perfect for your application.
I agree with you eva.
The problem in this instance is that the D3400 is a cheap chinese OEM product. Price seems to have come first in the design, hence the poor performance.
The proline however is working off a well established, cheaper technology
There are some stunning examples of class D high power amplifiers, the PKN and POWERSOFT brands are just a couple of examples. However, these come at a cost due to some serious electrical engineering having taken place....
The problem in this instance is that the D3400 is a cheap chinese OEM product. Price seems to have come first in the design, hence the poor performance.
The proline however is working off a well established, cheaper technology
There are some stunning examples of class D high power amplifiers, the PKN and POWERSOFT brands are just a couple of examples
. However, these come at a cost due to some serious electrical engineering having taken place....i've read this article, and now i'm a little bit confused.
Church Sound: Answers To The Eternal Question: What’s The “Right” Wattage For Loudspeakers? - Pro Sound Web
i thought that the good thing is to choose an amplifier that fits the same Wrms than the speaker.
i.e: my 2 drivers Fane Colossus 18XB have 800Wrms each, so an amplifier that gives 800@Ohms each channel will be good and safe to work with.
But this article says a rule of thum is :
"Use an amplifier that is twice the RMS rating. If you can’t find an amplifier with that exact rating, multiply this power rating by 0.8 and also by 1.25 to find a range of acceptable power. Example: A loudspeaker has a 250-watt RMS rating. Twice this is 500 watts. Therefore the acceptable range for the power amplifier to use is from 400 watts (0.8 x 500) to 625 watts (1.25 x 500). Anything larger is potentially excessive power. Anything smaller can cause damage from the amplifier clipping. Remember that the power amplifier output you select must be rated for the nominal impedance of the loudspeaker (i.e., 16, 8, 4 or 2 Ohms)."
So... i would need an amplifier of 1600Wrms@8Ohms?!?!?!
can someone explain a bit, or tell me where to find some more good info?
Or wich rule of thumb you think is better? Or this is good enough??
sorry for this offtopic question
thx for your help again.
really appreciate it.
Church Sound: Answers To The Eternal Question: What’s The “Right” Wattage For Loudspeakers? - Pro Sound Web
i thought that the good thing is to choose an amplifier that fits the same Wrms than the speaker.
i.e: my 2 drivers Fane Colossus 18XB have 800Wrms each, so an amplifier that gives 800@Ohms each channel will be good and safe to work with.
But this article says a rule of thum is :
"Use an amplifier that is twice the RMS rating. If you can’t find an amplifier with that exact rating, multiply this power rating by 0.8 and also by 1.25 to find a range of acceptable power. Example: A loudspeaker has a 250-watt RMS rating. Twice this is 500 watts. Therefore the acceptable range for the power amplifier to use is from 400 watts (0.8 x 500) to 625 watts (1.25 x 500). Anything larger is potentially excessive power. Anything smaller can cause damage from the amplifier clipping. Remember that the power amplifier output you select must be rated for the nominal impedance of the loudspeaker (i.e., 16, 8, 4 or 2 Ohms)."
So... i would need an amplifier of 1600Wrms@8Ohms?!?!?!
can someone explain a bit, or tell me where to find some more good info?
Or wich rule of thumb you think is better? Or this is good enough??
sorry for this offtopic question
thx for your help again.
really appreciate it.
hi again
sorry for my lots of questions
i've looked Music Store professional and there is this two amplifiers:
power maXX Pro-4000 2x 1900Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE==>522
power maXX - Pro-4000 2x 1900Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE : Etapas de potencia
power maXX Pro-3000 2x 1500Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE==>544
power maXX - Pro-3000 2x 1500Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE : Etapas de potencia
similars to the proline's from thomman. Which difference is there??? why is it cheaper the one with more watts!??!
Anyone has tryed them??
Do you know wich damping factor do the prolines have?
and i also can get this one for a reasonable price:
American Audio VLP-2500 2x 1300 Watt RMS / 4 Ohm
American Audio VX-2500 2x 1200 Watt / 4 Ohm Endstufe
any more comments about those??
i have some doubts about, the idea of double the watts of amp than driver. because some people say its better to always have the amplifier output of the amp at max power and to use Amp Watts similar to Driver amps, and obviously controlling the clipping with a DPS,etc...
thx for all your help
sorry for my lots of questions
i've looked Music Store professional and there is this two amplifiers:
power maXX Pro-4000 2x 1900Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE==>522
power maXX - Pro-4000 2x 1900Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE : Etapas de potencia
power maXX Pro-3000 2x 1500Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE==>544
power maXX - Pro-3000 2x 1500Watt/4Ohm Endstufe, 3HE : Etapas de potencia
similars to the proline's from thomman. Which difference is there??? why is it cheaper the one with more watts!??!
Anyone has tryed them??
Do you know wich damping factor do the prolines have?
and i also can get this one for a reasonable price:
American Audio VLP-2500 2x 1300 Watt RMS / 4 Ohm
American Audio VX-2500 2x 1200 Watt / 4 Ohm Endstufe
any more comments about those??
i have some doubts about, the idea of double the watts of amp than driver. because some people say its better to always have the amplifier output of the amp at max power and to use Amp Watts similar to Driver amps, and obviously controlling the clipping with a DPS,etc...
thx for all your help
The amplitude of music signals is not constant, it varies wildly with time. Peak-power to average-power ratio is rarely less than 4 in music.
On the other hand, speaker voice coils have thermal inertia and can withstand higher than rated power intermittently if average power is within rated.
However, high intermittent power can cause damage when the mechanical limits of a speaker are being periodically exceeded.
A 2:1 "rms" amplifier to speaker ratio is OK as long as the two previous points are understood.
Actually class D amplifiers with switching power supplies tend to be more tolerant to unstable power sources. Also they use less electrical power to provide the same output and can save a few euros in gasoline after 3 days of rave. I develop class D technology for pro-audio and I enjoy testing my stuff in the raves we do more than in any other way. btw: I can tell you about the next one if you PM me.
On the other hand, speaker voice coils have thermal inertia and can withstand higher than rated power intermittently if average power is within rated.
However, high intermittent power can cause damage when the mechanical limits of a speaker are being periodically exceeded.
A 2:1 "rms" amplifier to speaker ratio is OK as long as the two previous points are understood.
Actually class D amplifiers with switching power supplies tend to be more tolerant to unstable power sources. Also they use less electrical power to provide the same output and can save a few euros in gasoline after 3 days of rave. I develop class D technology for pro-audio and I enjoy testing my stuff in the raves we do more than in any other way. btw: I can tell you about the next one if you PM me.
2:1 is a good ratio, PROVIDING that:
1. the speakers rated RMS/AES isnt marketing bullcrap
2. you run with a decent limiter or are careful it doesn't go into clip
3. you run with a highpass to protect against overexcursion
I am confident that the fanes can take their rated power - they are very solid drivers. bear in mind that unfortunately, the claimed power of most amplifiers is, sadly, far above their true power. the more reputable the brand and the more expensive the amplifier, the closer the two match up
PFC I believe is worth looking out for in regards to class D amplifiers, I believe this lets it run on lower voltages?
those "power maxx" amplifiers seem to be extremely similar to the thomann ones. however, go for the prolines over those due to the better deal and proven performance! i have heard that the american audios are also good, but i do not have much experience with them.
I prefer to use 1.5x max the RMS rating of the drivers, as I know just how much clean power my amplifiers can push out
1. the speakers rated RMS/AES isnt marketing bullcrap
2. you run with a decent limiter or are careful it doesn't go into clip
3. you run with a highpass to protect against overexcursion
I am confident that the fanes can take their rated power - they are very solid drivers. bear in mind that unfortunately, the claimed power of most amplifiers is, sadly, far above their true power. the more reputable the brand and the more expensive the amplifier, the closer the two match up
PFC I believe is worth looking out for in regards to class D amplifiers, I believe this lets it run on lower voltages?
those "power maxx" amplifiers seem to be extremely similar to the thomann ones. however, go for the prolines over those due to the better deal and proven performance! i have heard that the american audios are also good, but i do not have much experience with them.
I prefer to use 1.5x max the RMS rating of the drivers, as I know just how much clean power my amplifiers can push out
So you would recommend me to buy a class D amplfier?¿?? wich one??
you prove me that a realtively "cheap one" will be stable???
Yesterday i went to a shop and talked to the guy from the shop and told me that he was running with some big and good generators for a "matinee group orgullo gay caravan", and said he still had some problems with the class D amplfier.
And for sure, those generators are much much better than ones we have.
Final question
is there anything wrong then, if i use same power driver and amplfier? as long as i keep the mixer/amplifier/DSP without clipping?? Don't think so right? i won't just get max power right?
thx for your help!!
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