Maybe this would be better on a Mustang forum, but I figure people here are more knowledgeable in general...
I have a Mustang with factory sub amps which I have bypassed but are still connected. I added an amp which works amazingly after I mis-wired it (see Darwin thread below), and for the remote trigger I used a scotchlok to tap one of the wires going into the factory sub amps. There are 6 wires going into said factory amps; 2 I know are low-level inputs since I used them before, one is bigger and white, one is bigger and black, one is bare, and one is small and red. I used the small red one, and now my new amp comes on and off fine, except it turns on every time I open the door or trunk, and turns off again in ~30 seconds if I don't have the stereo on.
Ford has a feature where the radio stays on for 10 minutes after the car is turned off, or until you open the door. My new amp is behaving accordingly, which I'd like to keep for seamlessness. This new "feature" is a little annoying since the speakers make a tiny "pop" every time I open the doors, and I'm worried it will drain the battery.
Any ideas?
I have a Mustang with factory sub amps which I have bypassed but are still connected. I added an amp which works amazingly after I mis-wired it (see Darwin thread below), and for the remote trigger I used a scotchlok to tap one of the wires going into the factory sub amps. There are 6 wires going into said factory amps; 2 I know are low-level inputs since I used them before, one is bigger and white, one is bigger and black, one is bare, and one is small and red. I used the small red one, and now my new amp comes on and off fine, except it turns on every time I open the door or trunk, and turns off again in ~30 seconds if I don't have the stereo on.
Ford has a feature where the radio stays on for 10 minutes after the car is turned off, or until you open the door. My new amp is behaving accordingly, which I'd like to keep for seamlessness. This new "feature" is a little annoying since the speakers make a tiny "pop" every time I open the doors, and I'm worried it will drain the battery.
Any ideas?
What year mustang? Is there a reason you didn't use the factory subs/amps? They sound decent and are easy to integrate with aftermarket decks with a 570-600 ohm resistor and two spare rca male plugs.
For your remote, did you try using the acc behind the deck? That way the amps would shut off at the same time the deck does. Using the wires from the factory amps isn't a good idea if its the style that uses the mute circuits. If it is one of those, the red/black and blue/red wires are actually audio inputs to the factory amps. Their turn ons are actually around 5v and should be the green/violet and gray/black wires.
For your remote, did you try using the acc behind the deck? That way the amps would shut off at the same time the deck does. Using the wires from the factory amps isn't a good idea if its the style that uses the mute circuits. If it is one of those, the red/black and blue/red wires are actually audio inputs to the factory amps. Their turn ons are actually around 5v and should be the green/violet and gray/black wires.
05 Mustang/Shaker 500. Someone broke into the car and ripped out a factory sub, I decided it was time to upgrade.
I used the red/black. The green/violet and one other were (I think) the low-level inputs. I think all the turn-ons are 5v.
I could use something behind the head unit but on the diagram there was no "acc" - the closest thing was "run." I'm kinda sick of pulling the radio though
I could also tap the fuse box but I feel like that is just waiting to fall out at a big pothole...
I used the red/black. The green/violet and one other were (I think) the low-level inputs. I think all the turn-ons are 5v.
I could use something behind the head unit but on the diagram there was no "acc" - the closest thing was "run." I'm kinda sick of pulling the radio though
I could also tap the fuse box but I feel like that is just waiting to fall out at a big pothole...
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