I am installing TQ2-5V on a Mezmerize board now and they fit perfectly. The data sheet for these says gold plated silver contacts...
I know but the other type is much more easy to find from various manufacturers ( in various quality degrees ) and it is cheaper too. I specifically mentioned "gold plated silver contacts" as the other relay is also available with less audiophile contacts !
Got it! Thanks!! That's why I love this place, so much to learn; so many willing to share!!!
Mezmerize proto build update for today.
Don't have the resistors yet
Soldered in the relays, diodes, and LEDs. The LEDs are matched and all read 1.790 on the diode setting on my meter. The parts all fit very nicely the TQ2-5V dropped right in, I know there was some concern about that. The board is easy to work and solders nicely.
I hope my parts come in this weekend, if so it should be making wonderful noise by Monday afternoon.
Don't have the resistors yet
Soldered in the relays, diodes, and LEDs. The LEDs are matched and all read 1.790 on the diode setting on my meter. The parts all fit very nicely the TQ2-5V dropped right in, I know there was some concern about that. The board is easy to work and solders nicely.
I hope my parts come in this weekend, if so it should be making wonderful noise by Monday afternoon.
From the Panasonic TQ2-12V data sheet:
There doesn't seem to be much of a price difference. I personally have no preference either way, I just don't think that the smaller relais are necessarily a bad choice.
"5. The use of gold-clad twin crossbar
contacts ensures high contact
reliability."
contacts ensures high contact
reliability."
There doesn't seem to be much of a price difference. I personally have no preference either way, I just don't think that the smaller relais are necessarily a bad choice.
I do - since I trusted the BOM published here and ordered 200 pc. of the TQ-2 relays for our german group buy...
going for it
I got the transistors and caps on, and could not help but try to fire it up.
I got a strange noise from the unit, sounded like an e-cap about to blow. Only when I got above 75v AC from the variac. I am pretty sure it's a relay, as at around 90v it seems to click. I dont have the selector on, so I am not sure if that's the cause, or some other problem I have here. I will try to get the other parts on this weekend. No smoke.
I dont know a darn thing about these relays so any enlightnment would be good.
Here are some pics so far.
I got the transistors and caps on, and could not help but try to fire it up.
I got a strange noise from the unit, sounded like an e-cap about to blow. Only when I got above 75v AC from the variac. I am pretty sure it's a relay, as at around 90v it seems to click. I dont have the selector on, so I am not sure if that's the cause, or some other problem I have here. I will try to get the other parts on this weekend. No smoke.
I dont know a darn thing about these relays so any enlightnment would be good.
Here are some pics so far.
Attachments
You probably triggered the delay circuit. It looks complete enough. Check your caps and transistors/ jfets orientations and positions once more. Short one input relay coil pin (one of the six from left to right on the switch connector) to the ground pin of it (the 7th one near the word selector) with a crocodile clip, and off you go. It should click two relays. The input relay, and in a few seconds the delay relay. What parts you miss? Are your relays 12V or 5V? If 12V you don't install 2X300R, you just jumper one.
Then see the voltage drops on the 34R (68//68) combinations that they indicate under 100mA, see if your Vouts are reasonably symmetrical, check offset. If all goes well, use any 20k-25k pot, play some music.
Then see the voltage drops on the 34R (68//68) combinations that they indicate under 100mA, see if your Vouts are reasonably symmetrical, check offset. If all goes well, use any 20k-25k pot, play some music.
There is one thing about crt's circuit and build that has me puzzled: he is just testing so he doesn't have a potentiometer in the circuit, but it also looks as if there is just a wire bridge in each channel instead.
So, what's the input impedance of that circuit variant? I almost certainly missed something in his pictures, but I've looked at them a couple of times and can't figure it out.
So, what's the input impedance of that circuit variant? I almost certainly missed something in his pictures, but I've looked at them a couple of times and can't figure it out.
The deed is done: my Mezmerize proto-pcb makes music!
The power on delay works. Input switching is nearly quiet (I'll look into the little "plop" sound when switching tomorrow). Music sounds just fine. S/N ratio appears to be right on target.
My power supply is slightly uneven 10.5 vs 10.9 or so. All of that will have to wait. It's time for bed.
Thank you to all designers, contributors, and to the GB organizer.
The power on delay works. Input switching is nearly quiet (I'll look into the little "plop" sound when switching tomorrow). Music sounds just fine. S/N ratio appears to be right on target.
My power supply is slightly uneven 10.5 vs 10.9 or so. All of that will have to wait. It's time for bed.
Thank you to all designers, contributors, and to the GB organizer.
Grufti, More than interesting, my offsets are exactly that.
I think V+ 10.9 and 10.5 V-
These are not offsets, its your regs symmetry. Has to do with Vbe. Measure your DC offset at the output. If under 5mV, leave it as it is. Depending on the B1 jfet match, some reg assymetry is beneficial, as it offsets the offset.
If the output DC is more than 5mV, you can give more voltage by substituting stronger Vf led(s) in the opposite supply. I.e. If your offset is +5mV you want to make the negative reg Vout stronger. If over -5mV, do the opposite. I could get it down to absolute zero that way. But guess what, it amounts to absolutely nothing. Not safer, no better square wave, or any better sound. If you got DC audio out offset in the +/-5mV range, just drink a beer. Forget it.
If the output DC is more than 5mV, you can give more voltage by substituting stronger Vf led(s) in the opposite supply. I.e. If your offset is +5mV you want to make the negative reg Vout stronger. If over -5mV, do the opposite. I could get it down to absolute zero that way. But guess what, it amounts to absolutely nothing. Not safer, no better square wave, or any better sound. If you got DC audio out offset in the +/-5mV range, just drink a beer. Forget it.
I got the transistors and caps on, and could not help but try to fire it up.
I got a strange noise from the unit, sounded like an e-cap about to blow. Only when I got above 75v AC from the variac. I am pretty sure it's a relay, as at around 90v it seems to click. I dont have the selector on, so I am not sure if that's the cause, or some other problem I have here. I will try to get the other parts on this weekend. No smoke.
I dont know a darn thing about these relays so any enlightnment would be good.
Here are some pics so far.
I have just tested the assembly ( basic version) after goofing LED connections and missing one jumper. Everything looks allright except relay power.
- There is an oscillation across Relay power - around 5 -6 Khz - causes Whooshing continuous sound. IF you check voltage across the diode/could see 5 khz oscillation ? The sound starts when start delay finishes and power is applied to the Relay? I have to check few things later today when I come back in the night to work on this. I also see voltage being 10.5 V and -11.1V not symmetrical due to LED mismatch probably. I will do further testing later. I will try to load the picture soon
kannan
