I found these in my parent's garage. I think they are old Radio Shack "Realistic" speakers that were part of a console system. The console, I hope, had some sort of EQ because they sound painful and as far as I can tell are beyond saving unless I were to perhaps use a wideband tweeter that will play down to 500Hz.
...but on the other hand, I hate throwing stuff out.
Top line is frequency response from the listening position
Bottom lines are nearfield individual responses of the components outside the box (6" away).
...but on the other hand, I hate throwing stuff out.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Top line is frequency response from the listening position
Bottom lines are nearfield individual responses of the components outside the box (6" away).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Combined response looks like both drivers are working full range, would sound awful, especially if tweeter is breaking up at the lower end.
What about some photos of the XO network?
Response of the midrange actually looks OK on paper, what did it sound like on it's own? might make a good cheap OB mid.
What about some photos of the XO network?
Response of the midrange actually looks OK on paper, what did it sound like on it's own? might make a good cheap OB mid.
Photo 2 shows the elaborate crossover. aka, a capcitor in-line with the tweeter, I bypassed it when I took the response by itself.
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for some reason I can't see your FR pic, a Bug?
anyway, I'd remove that horn thingy, damp the whizzer with some foam, and see how they sound running with the back off the cab...???
anyway, I'd remove that horn thingy, damp the whizzer with some foam, and see how they sound running with the back off the cab...???
last image is visible if you paste it's link into new browser window.
I guess you don't want to spend too much on new drivers or crossover.
I'd filter out higher woofer frequencies, with something like 2mh coil in series
and 50mfd cap in parallel. and tweeter level may be brough down a little with small value resistor 2-3 ohm. and of course I'd remove whizzer from woofer 🙂
I guess you don't want to spend too much on new drivers or crossover.
I'd filter out higher woofer frequencies, with something like 2mh coil in series
and 50mfd cap in parallel. and tweeter level may be brough down a little with small value resistor 2-3 ohm. and of course I'd remove whizzer from woofer 🙂
Hmm............ thanks, though it still doesn't explain why............
GM
edit: Weird! Now that I've posted it separately, the original displays for me.
GM
edit: Weird! Now that I've posted it separately, the original displays for me.
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So do you actually think these are resurrect-able with a proper crossover network? They might be useful in the garage (if I had a garage).
The tweeter doesn't seem to have any worthwhile qualities but I'll run some more tests. I was ready to toss them in the trash (well, maybe I'll save the woofers for some sort of desktop subwoofer system...but even then at 8w they probably won't last long.)
The tweeter doesn't seem to have any worthwhile qualities but I'll run some more tests. I was ready to toss them in the trash (well, maybe I'll save the woofers for some sort of desktop subwoofer system...but even then at 8w they probably won't last long.)
The woofer has less power than the tweeter, that's odd. It actually looks more like a full ranger.
What do you mean by less power? The woofer is run full-range while the tweeter just has a cap on it.
The rated power on the woofer appears to be 8W, and the tweeter 13W. I agree the woofer looks more like a full range unit, it plays quite high according to the measurements too. May be worth keeping for wideband midrange duties in an open baffle as others have suggested.
Of course they're good for low SPL MUZAK, garage or similar apps if there's tone controls in the signal chain and/or for XO design, coatings, etc. experimentation, but while there's some real gems 'buried' in some old RS, etc. 'junk' worth saving, these aren't IMO.
That said, back when I use to be an active 'dumpster diver', 'junk' driver tweaker there was no need for computer speakers, so keeping/tweaking just the 'FR' drivers may be worth the effort if used in at least a 2.1 system, otherwise, you see the size cabs required to cover the mid-bass, so figure at least 4x that to get down into the woofer BW with any authority.
GM
Just noticed that the enclosures are horribly designed...unless they weren't intending it to be sealed. The tweeter mounting isn't tight at all and the woofer, being rear-mounted leaves gaps at each of the mounting points due to the gap in the cardboard surround.
Thanks...that's what I needed. I'll hold on to the drivers in case I want to experiment with eNabling or something but the enclosures and probably the tweeters will go into the dumpster. Unless someone else sees value in them and wants to pay for shipping.
Thanks...that's what I needed. I'll hold on to the drivers in case I want to experiment with eNabling or something but the enclosures and probably the tweeters will go into the dumpster. Unless someone else sees value in them and wants to pay for shipping.
Oh, and just for those who may come across these in the future and are searching google, I might as well drop down the info from the back of these speakers...
Woofer:
Morse 8L-9-29
8 Ohm 13 W
4.3 oz MAG
JAPAN
Tweeter:
Morse TW-702L
8 Ohm 13W
1.21oz MAG
JAPAN
7314
Woofer:
Morse 8L-9-29
8 Ohm 13 W
4.3 oz MAG
JAPAN
Tweeter:
Morse TW-702L
8 Ohm 13W
1.21oz MAG
JAPAN
7314
Before throwing them out it would make sense to make some proper measurements of the system and drivers. To properly measure those you need more than a farfield RTA (which says as much about your room as the drivers) and nearfield RTA of drivers disconnected and removed from the box.
If you measured the drivers in box with a gated signal, some might suggest a crossover that would actually work. You could use Holmimpulse, or speaker workshop.
If you measured the drivers in box with a gated signal, some might suggest a crossover that would actually work. You could use Holmimpulse, or speaker workshop.
Are those free applications? Could you send me some links to a tutorial on how I should take proper measurements?
Hello Chuyler, I don't think those speakers originally came with any Rat Shack equipment, but they may have wound up be used as such later. They look like cheapo 70's speakers that came with the all in one stereos bought in places like K-Mart, what many of us got as our first stereo. Both sets of drivers may be fun to experiment with, but the cabinets are probably best used as kindling for a bonfire.
They actually brought back some memories for me. I had a pair of speakers that look just like those when I was in high school. I used them in the rear of my first car. I wired up a toggle switch to switch a relay coil. The relay contacts switched between the speaker outs of the factory am/fm stereo in the car, and a cheapo Rat Shack tape deck I mounted in the dash where there used to be a storage pocket.
Peace,
Dave
They actually brought back some memories for me. I had a pair of speakers that look just like those when I was in high school. I used them in the rear of my first car. I wired up a toggle switch to switch a relay coil. The relay contacts switched between the speaker outs of the factory am/fm stereo in the car, and a cheapo Rat Shack tape deck I mounted in the dash where there used to be a storage pocket.
Peace,
Dave
Well they are definitely "Realistic" brand which I thought was a Radio Shack brand. The logo on the front of the enclosures matches the one in the lower right corner in this photo...
I'd throw out the tweeter, stuff that enclosure almost to death and then give it a try as a full range speaker for a PC. But then OTOH, not everyone is as insane as I am. 🙂
Look for the unofficial speaker workshop manual. It is kind of long and rambling for a manual, IMO; but then its intent is apparently to bring you up to speed on a wide variety of topics rather than just teach you how to use the program. Speaker workshop is very powerful (T/S measurement, crossover simulation and optimization, etc) once you get the hang of it.
There are other free programs - Holmimpulse, ARTA (demo only) that are likely easier to use, but these are just for measurement. You could then simulate in something like Jeff Bagby's PCD, which is relatively easy.
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