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#141 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#142 | |
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diyAudio Member
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I also prepared a BOM with parts from Mouser/Parts Connexion and eBay and I'll post it for other diyers. Could you post your BOM, so we can compare with mine to produce the final BOM? Andrea |
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#143 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yeah, sure. Mine is attached.
There are some missing parts because I've already have them in the parts bin so I just left them out from the BOM. Also, I overspec'd some caps, increased the quantity of some easy-to-fail (2sk170, bc550, bc560, mje350, irf9510...) parts to have some backups in case something goes wrong during the build.
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#144 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
A few questions: - did you mount SPDIF transformer? - about IV HV: are you using centre tapped 260-0-260 and 2 rectifiers only or single 0-260 and 4 rectifiers? |
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#145 |
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diyAudio Member
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You can skip the spdif transformer if you only use coaxial input.
I use 0-260v transformer and 4 recitifiers. Look for the Aavid 2.5" to-220 heatsinks for best heat dissipating.
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#146 |
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diyAudio Member
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#147 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi all,
I'll use 5687 and E182CC tube, so I have the following questions: - filament: linking J1 seems the heaters are powered wih 12.6V, so what secondaries of R80-36 transformer should I use? more simple, what colours? - anode: using 4 rectifiers and R80-36 transformer, what secondaries should I use 0-230 or 0-260? in parallel? more simple, what colours? Thanks Andrea |
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#148 |
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diyAudio Member
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Anyone can help me?
Andrea |
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#149 | |
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diyAudio Member
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if use 5687 or e182cc use 12Vac for filament use 0-220Vac for shunt!
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Group buy DAC-END R (ES9018) full assembled board update 8/5/2013 : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2c&hl=en#gid=0 |
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#150 |
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diyAudio Member
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