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Old 7th March 2010, 01:05 AM   #1011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabanyayaya View Post
Maybe if I reduce the rating from 3A to 1.5A could reduce the heat problem in the heater section since 6h6P heater needs 750mA70. Is this correct ?

Secondly running 2.2R instead 1R....how about chattering problem ????
Using 6n6P you save some power dispersion but not much.

I had chattering problem with 2.2R yes, but I resolved by replacing the LM338 regulator with LT1085 which has lower dropout voltage. I still have 2.2R in place with AC 9.3V input.

Because you cannot change transformer voltage output you can only change the regulator first and if not enough then you have no choice but changing 2.2R to lower value.

Last edited by apelizzo; 7th March 2010 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 7th March 2010, 01:27 AM   #1012
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Originally Posted by apelizzo View Post
Using 6n6P you save some power dispersion but not much.

I had chattering problem with 2.2R yes, but I resolved by replacing the LM338 regulator with LT1085 which has lower dropout voltage. I still have 2.2R in place with AC 9.3V input.

Because you cannot change transformer voltage output you can only change the regulator first and if not enough then you have no choice but changing 2.2R to lower value.

Why tranny in the heater section is 9.3V or something, not 9V....??? Is this matters so much or just you happens to have that value....???

One more thing is should I change the trimmer from 220R to 200R....??? or just follow the original value..

My solder melts at 170C. I'm bit worried it might couse a problems to the heat....

Last edited by gabanyayaya; 7th March 2010 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 7th March 2010, 01:36 AM   #1013
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One more thing is should I change the trimmer from 220R to 200R....??? or just follow the original value..

The trimmer 220R or 200R, no problem, 2 value is ok, so you can find it
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Old 7th March 2010, 01:38 AM   #1014
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One more thing is should I change the trimmer from 220R to 200R....??? or just follow the original value..

The trimmer 220R or 200R, no problem, 2 value is ok, so you can find it
ok then....
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Old 7th March 2010, 01:49 AM   #1015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apelizzo View Post
After replacing E182CC with Philips Jan 5687 I had to deal with power dissipation on heater power supply section. The bridge rectifier gets really hot so I added a custom made heatsink.

The best sound I achieved with Sprague HyperQ PIO 1uF 300V. The details are better then any MKP I have and with the natural sound of PIO.

I will also try Adamus LED mod Let's see.
it is very nice. you work very well, congratulations!
of course it will be very hot, because the filament of 5687 need 1.8A total!

I always remind you is the most difficult as the filament 5687.
all very easy to complete except for the filament 5687
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Old 7th March 2010, 03:06 AM   #1016
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Originally Posted by gabanyayaya View Post
ok then....
gabanyayaya ,
I forgot to mention that you need to replace R11. Put 560R instead of 1K or you will not be able to adjust the voltage down to 6.3V

8.7, 9, 9.3V AC all good. You need to make sure is working after the regulator. Relay chattering means no smooth DC so as I said you need to put LT1085 regulator in any case and juggle with 2.2R or 1R.
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Old 7th March 2010, 03:09 AM   #1017
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Originally Posted by quanghao View Post
it is very nice. you work very well, congratulations!
of course it will be very hot, because the filament of 5687 need 1.8A total!

I always remind you is the most difficult as the filament 5687.
all very easy to complete except for the filament 5687
Thanks quanghao.
Yes 5687 heater is difficult because the power supply is very compact so the power dissipation is in very small area.
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Old 7th March 2010, 07:07 AM   #1018
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Hi Quanghao.
Cangratulations for the interesting project.
I have some question for you.

1.Is it really necessary to supply pin 18 (M2) to a dedicated regulator(VD4)?
If so, why don't you connect also pin 24 (M1) to VD4 instead of VD3?

2.How hot are the mosfet on Salas Regolator?
Is it safe to run it without heatsink?

Thanks and regards.
Atok
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Old 7th March 2010, 07:22 AM   #1019
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[QUOTE=toquito5000;2110193]Hi Quanghao.
Cangratulations for the interesting project.
I have some question for you.

1.Is it really necessary to supply pin 18 (M2) to a dedicated regulator(VD4)?
If so, why don't you connect also pin 24 (M1) to VD4 instead of VD3?

in this question, im sorry , I do not answer! ( there are on member ask me that)

2.How hot are the mosfet on Salas Regolator?
Is it safe to run it without heatsink?

yes, no hot ! No need heatsink, but i want safe for IRFP and beautiful, you need use it

thank
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Old 7th March 2010, 08:51 AM   #1020
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Originally Posted by apelizzo View Post
gabanyayaya ,
I forgot to mention that you need to replace R11. Put 560R instead of 1K or you will not be able to adjust the voltage down to 6.3V

8.7, 9, 9.3V AC all good. You need to make sure is working after the regulator. Relay chattering means no smooth DC so as I said you need to put LT1085 regulator in any case and juggle with 2.2R or 1R.
thanks for the reminder....that means I need a set of 2.2R and 1R and 220 and 200R trimmer for this project....going shopping and broke again...
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