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Quanghao Audio Design Quanghao Audio Design is a producer of DIY Audiophile Kits and PCB boards, selected from many listening tests!

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Old 4th March 2010, 03:36 AM   #1001
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Thanks for that Ekkeri, i've done ahead and ordered myself some.
Just waiting now for the few remaining bits, and i'll fire her up.
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Old 4th March 2010, 02:19 PM   #1002
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Location: Kaskus / Madiun
Dioda for Salas Shunt :

Dioda 2A/800V = IN5819 or IN5062 ???????????
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Old 4th March 2010, 02:37 PM   #1003
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I used 5819. The new BOM says 5819, the old says 5062. However i then refereed to andrea's page, which says 5819.
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Old 4th March 2010, 02:53 PM   #1004
adamus is offline adamus  United Kingdom
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As this dac definately seems a keeper... i have just ordered a ncie front panel.

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Old 4th March 2010, 10:32 PM   #1005
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Originally Posted by adamus View Post
As this dac definately seems a keeper... i have just ordered a ncie front panel.

Click the image to open in full size.

Good idea adamus, I'll find out where it can be done here locally.

I replaced all interconnect cables yesterday and I have done new ones with RG59 solid core copper as I don't believe many b**sh*it cables on the market. Further detail improvement.
4-500$ cables IMO can only improve 2-5% the sound so I never spend that money in cables like that. However a simple RG59 can be better than many good looking cables on shelve.
I prefer spending money in more efficient way in other parts of the amplifier.
If anyone wants good interconnect cables I can make now for $399 each 1 metre. :0) HAHA **Just kidding**.

Last edited by apelizzo; 4th March 2010 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 5th March 2010, 03:03 AM   #1006
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The boards arrived today quanghao..
Thanks for that.
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Old 6th March 2010, 01:00 PM   #1007
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Default Dac End - End

After replacing E182CC with Philips Jan 5687 I had to deal with power dissipation on heater power supply section. The bridge rectifier gets really hot so I added a custom made heatsink.

The best sound I achieved with Sprague HyperQ PIO 1uF 300V. The details are better then any MKP I have and with the natural sound of PIO.

I will also try Adamus LED mod Let's see.
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Last edited by apelizzo; 6th March 2010 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 6th March 2010, 07:13 PM   #1008
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Originally Posted by apelizzo View Post
After replacing E182CC with Philips Jan 5687 I had to deal with power dissipation on heater power supply section. The bridge rectifier gets really hot so I added a custom made heatsink.


won't this could be dangerous...or bad to the bridge rectifier ?

And since changing R8 & R9 from 2.2R to 1R is there any excessive heat problem anymore?

I have a lot of ceramic 1R 10W with me like this ..

Click the image to open in full size.

IRC / TT ELECTRONICS|CVW101R00JLF|Power Resistor

The leads is short to lift the resistor for clearance from the pcb....would this be suitable ?
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Old 6th March 2010, 11:27 PM   #1009
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Originally Posted by gabanyayaya View Post
won't this could be dangerous...or bad to the bridge rectifier ?

And since changing R8 & R9 from 2.2R to 1R is there any excessive heat problem anymore?

I have a lot of ceramic 1R 10W with me like this ..

Click the image to open in full size.

IRC / TT ELECTRONICS|CVW101R00JLF|Power Resistor

The leads is short to lift the resistor for clearance from the pcb....would this be suitable ?

It is ok for the bridge to be hot but needs to have heatsink. If you use 5687 you must use heatsink or will get extremely hot, probably still works but you will have dry sold joints down in the future.

By replacing 2.2R to 1R you push more power dispersion to the regulator. I think is better run 2.2 resistors hot then the regulator more hot.

For reliability, don't allow solder joint to go over 80C.

I like those resistors they have larger surface area then others but I could not use them because the legs are too short.

Last edited by apelizzo; 6th March 2010 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 7th March 2010, 01:54 AM   #1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apelizzo View Post
It is ok for the bridge to be hot but needs to have heatsink. If you use 5687 you must use heatsink or will get extremely hot, probably still works but you will have dry sold joints down in the future.

By replacing 2.2R to 1R you push more power dispersion to the regulator. I think is better run 2.2 resistors hot then the regulator more hot.

For reliability, don't allow solder joint to go over 80C.

I like those resistors they have larger surface area then others but I could not use them because the legs are too short.
Maybe if I reduce the rating from 3A to 1.5A could reduce the heat problem in the heater section since 6h6P heater needs 750mA±70. Is this correct ?

Secondly running 2.2R instead 1R....how about chattering problem ????
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