depends...
I have run both Acoustat (0ne plus 0nes) and inner sound (eros) panels with Antique Sound Labs Waves (8 watt mono blocks) and ouuld achieve decent listening levels on both. Bigger ams do sound better. A friend is running 0ne plus 0nes with an ARC tripath amp 300 per chanel and it sounds very good. Amps that don't like the load very much will work but not sound very impressive and lack dynamics. Regards Moray James.
I have run both Acoustat (0ne plus 0nes) and inner sound (eros) panels with Antique Sound Labs Waves (8 watt mono blocks) and ouuld achieve decent listening levels on both. Bigger ams do sound better. A friend is running 0ne plus 0nes with an ARC tripath amp 300 per chanel and it sounds very good. Amps that don't like the load very much will work but not sound very impressive and lack dynamics. Regards Moray James.
hmm i dont think a cascade high voltage unit will consume 10 watt ,it may put out high voltage but absolute no current.
maybe it depends on the construction of the cascade but i know many desgigns where they tell you to let them plugged in.
And also discharging and charging the element all the time wont exactly expand life time. there is nothing wrong with having costand power on the mylar, at least i cant think of any reason why it should destroy either the mylar or the coating.
i think its more the thought of leaving equipment plugged in.
maybe it depends on the construction of the cascade but i know many desgigns where they tell you to let them plugged in.
And also discharging and charging the element all the time wont exactly expand life time. there is nothing wrong with having costand power on the mylar, at least i cant think of any reason why it should destroy either the mylar or the coating.
i think its more the thought of leaving equipment plugged in.
Hi, Jin. Take a look at ESP's Project 38. I've built a pair for ESL power switching with the speaker level input. They worked great with a bit of component tweaking. There's a photo of one of them in this post. It's the pcb in the front.
The HV supplies use very little power, my switching supplies use about as much light as a nightlight for the pair. It is possible to make a circuit to turn them off, but to me it's not worth the expense of building the circuit. My electricity is about $0.10/KW-Hr. I'd guess that the circuitry to turn the supplies on and off is about $50 for a pair if I am frugal and clever. At 7 watts, that is 71,428 hours to payoff. That is over 8 years; too long.
My DIY esl's play well using a pair of 20 watt amps, they are pushing it a bit with 10 watt amps. My 20 watt amps use tubes which aren't very efficient, but they are only on when I'm listening to music.
Everything I own plugs in, and my electric bill is still quite reasonable, so I don't sweat it too much. I do turn off light when leaving rooms, but I don't stay up at night thinking about it.
Sheldon
My DIY esl's play well using a pair of 20 watt amps, they are pushing it a bit with 10 watt amps. My 20 watt amps use tubes which aren't very efficient, but they are only on when I'm listening to music.
Everything I own plugs in, and my electric bill is still quite reasonable, so I don't sweat it too much. I do turn off light when leaving rooms, but I don't stay up at night thinking about it.
Sheldon
JinMTVT said:
Yes, you would start with a little power supply that is on all the time (oops, we defeated the purpose). then you'd have a connection to your audio input that would drive a high impedance stage (op-amp) set up as an active rectifier. The rectified audio is smoothed (integrated with a cap) and sent to a comparator. the output of the comparator changes state when the musical signal exceeds a threshold. Now the logic of the circuit: There should be a very long time constant RC circuit (this is the ghetto way) that either charges or discharges over a very long time. When the comparator changes state is restarts the RC decay process. If the RC circuit (think 555 timer here) decays past the timer threshold, then it turns the HV off. When the RC is reset, the HV supply turns back on. The real problem with this concept is that the many minute RC time constants can be flakey when they age (the board gets dirty etc).
the cheaper and easier way to go is to have the rectified and filtered audio signal go into a PIC microcontroller that does the checking and timing.
The big problem with turning off the panel is that many panels take a while to charge up. So you aren't listening to a properly functioning panel for a while.
The real issue here is the circuit to turn off the panel will use roughly as much power as the original power supply does. Defeating the purpose if you want to save electricity. Just pull the plug, it's cheaper and easier.
Turning off the power o the panel can slow the accumulation of dust and dirt in the panel. That can be a good thing, but it's easy enough to vacuum out the panel every year or so. I have never had a problem leaving my panels on all the time.
Sheldon
Why not...
the simple oscilator circuit that uses a resistor in parallel with a cap feeding a neon bulb? Simple and works Quad uses them. Regards Moray James.
PS I hope that the intent was not to actually shut the supply off to save energy. This will only decople the diaphragm from the supply which is more important.
the simple oscilator circuit that uses a resistor in parallel with a cap feeding a neon bulb? Simple and works Quad uses them. Regards Moray James.
PS I hope that the intent was not to actually shut the supply off to save energy. This will only decople the diaphragm from the supply which is more important.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.