!Need URGENT advice! on subwoofer purchase!

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Hey!

I'm planning to do a sealed box design of 1.5 to 2 cu.ft.

I've ordered the BASH 500 watts amplifier from parts express (Subwoofer Amplifier Website). And tomorrow morning I'm going to buy a 12'' peerless subwoofer (that's why I need some
fast replys). Now I don't know which one to buy.
The XXLS 830845 interest me, but it's a 8ohms subwoofer.
The XXLS 830844 seems interesting, but the website suggest a passive radiator box.
The XLS 830500 too seems interesting, but it is 8ohms too...
(Subwoofers Website )

I don't know if, with a 8ohm subwoofer, it will be enough loud. Because my amplifier will be of 500 watts rms with a 4ohm load and 250 watts rms with a 8ohms load.

So what would you do if you were me?

Thank you for the fast replys!
David Lafleur
 
Are you dead set on a peerless?

The reason I ask is Mach5audio.com sells decent drivers at a good price.

Back to the drivers at hand. Have you modeled any of them in WinISD? Do any of them run out of excursion using 500w or less? If so, you could just buy one of the 8ohm drivers to give yourself a safety cushion. Another option would be to buy two of the 8ohm drivers to use your amp to its fullest.:cool:
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned TC Sounds. They sell their drivers direct now in addition to their OEM business, and the TC-1000 12" is a good performer in a 3 cubic foot sealed enclosure, with a -3dB point at 30 Hz, but with a -10dB point at 18 Hz. The shallow, gentle rolloff complements room gain. And, vented alignments in the same enclosure volume can also be easily done. They're on sale at present. And they're nice-looking. The TC2 motor used on the driver was measured to be lower in distortion than even the venerable Peerless XLS. In this price range, you really can't do better, I think.

http://www.tcsounds.com/

Make sure you take extra care in the installation of the driver to prevent any dents or dings. Dropping a tool into the center of an aluminum cone will almost certainly produce a dent, as I discovered when building with an aluminum cone. Cut out a circle of cardboard to place into the driver's cone when setting the T-Nuts, performing the final mounting, etc.
 
BAM said:
I'm surprised no one has mentioned TC Sounds.

I mentioned it, along with several others...in his other thread. :)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89591

EDIT: Oh yeah... TC Sound's entire new line of subs appears to be great. Although I don't have any personal experience with any of them as of yet, I'm sure you won't be disappointed. I think it's awesome that they're finally giving consumers a product line, and even more...selling directly from their site. However, I think they've gone a bit nuts with marketing on their site in some respects. All good though. I'm sure each and every one of their products are VERY solid performers, so nothing to worry about. I look forward to trying one out some time. Let us know how it turns out!...Here, or in your other thread(s). *shrug* :)
 
Build the TC Sounds recommended 3-cubic-foot vented enclosure, with the single 4"-diameter vent. Use a Precision Port flared port kit from Parts Express. These will give you good results. It takes an incredible amount of motor strength to generate the kind of air movement that the TC-1000 is capable of from an enclosure smaller than 3 cubic feet. But the good news is, a 3-cubic-foot enclosure is more compact than you may think. Build an enclosure with internal dimensions of 14.5"Wx18"Hx20"D. The vent length needed should be able to fit into that space. Use 3/4" MDF single-layer construction, and add a single "window" brace halfway along the length. Use the "Screw-and-glue" method to attach enclosure panels -- apply the glue, and screw the panel into the adjoining panel.
 
But Ron E, from my "sealed or vented enclosure for the tc-1000" thread said:
" Post #2
Actually, a Sealed box with an F3 of 35Hz will sound very solid.

That woofer will not work ported unless you use a VERY large diameter port. If you use anything less than a 6" diameter flared port you will have mucho whistling and chuffing noises if you apply any power at all. Alternatively you could use several Passive Radiators instead of a port. Note that the Mfg. recommended enclosures are showing response with an external highpass filter which applies bass boost. This is a bit of a cheat for marketing purposes, IMO.

I'd go sealed, especially if this is for a car."

So... I'm confused...
 
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